# Honda EU7000is start button



## jACK (Apr 5, 2021)

I'm hoping to find a cause and solution.
EU7000is start button will not start the generator. The pull start does, and generator performs fine.
Initially when the problem began, the push button was intermittent. It would take multiple pushes to make contact. It eventually got to the point where I had to find the sweet spot by randomly pushing on different parts of the button. Then it failed. For now the Pull Start will suffice. After a 6 hour run, being started via Pull Start, the Push Button still fails despite Batt Voltage being 12.4. Manual claims it only needs 12.2 volts to start.
Could the issue be the battery? And, what voltage threshold would trigger the cause?
I appreciate any knowledge on this?
Thank You
jACK


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## Dutchy491 (Sep 18, 2019)

Battery should read 12 6 volts or it’s questionable. If lower the voltage will drop well below 12.2 to start the engine. Check battery after 24 hours of sleep. If it’s low it’s probably done. If it’s the switch just replace it. Good practice is battery trickle charge regularly. Dutchy


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## jACK (Apr 5, 2021)

Aloha!
Brand New 12.7 vdc battery. Spark arrestor cleaned. New Push Start Button.
New properly gapped Spark Plug, New Fuel Filter, New Oil, New Air Filter, Cleaned Fuel Tank. Runs fine via Manual Pull Start. Then dies randomly from 2 to 30 minutes running.
Push Button does nothing. iMonitor does not display from battery when key turned on. Does display during Manual Pull Start .
Its appearing I need to try disconnecting Low Oil Sensor? Not sure where that is done?
Any input on the LOS disconnect or bypass point would be appreciated.
Do these symptoms point to Fuel Injection issues?
Thank You
jACK


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

Have you checked the fuses? The iMonitor should certainly turn on with the key. The generator doesn’t actually need battery to operate since the main stator has a winding for suppling power the engine controls and fuel pump.

If error codes are present, then you have a nice jumping off point. But it sounds like it might be the GCU. I recommend you buy the shop manual.






EU7000is Generator Shop Manual | Honda Power Products Support Publications


The Honda EU7000is Generator Shop Manual covers service and repair procedures for the EU7000is generators.




publications.powerequipment.honda.com


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## jACK (Apr 5, 2021)

drmerdp said:


> Have you checked the fuses? The iMonitor should certainly turn on with the key. The generator doesn’t actually need battery to operate since the main stator has a winding for suppling power the engine controls and fuel pump.
> 
> If error codes are present, then you have a nice jumping off point. But it sounds like it might be the GCU. I recommend you buy the shop manual.
> 
> ...


Aloha!
Fuses (15 and 3) and Fuse panel are/is clean and intact.
For clarification, iMonitor functions when manually started, only. 
iMonitor does not function/display by turning on key. Starting by Push Button is not working. This makes it appear the key and start button cause some problem, possibly connected to the stall out of engine? Or, these 2 issues, (Stall and failure to start via GCU) are separate?
Engine runs perfect when not stalled out.
Have you ever had to bypass Low Oil Sensor to troubleshoot ?
Thank You
jACK


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## tabora (Sep 6, 2018)

jACK said:


> Have you ever had to bypass Low Oil Sensor to troubleshoot ?


Hi Jack, I know you REALLY want to bypass that Low Oil Sensor, but here's the thing... If the low oil sensor is tripped I don't believe the generator will run at all no matter how you started it. Doesn't sound like that's your problem.


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## jACK (Apr 5, 2021)

tabora said:


> Hi Jack, I know you REALLY want to bypass that Low Oil Sensor, but here's the thing... If the low oil sensor is tripped I don't believe the generator will run at all no matter how you started it. Doesn't sound like that's your problem.


Sorry! But, its a known Honda flaw, rare, but real. My purpose is to rule it out. Its the only thing left. Unless there's another possibility not known yet? Nothing else is making sense right now. Its reported that such has happened. My oil is new and full, the sensor shouldn't trip. The work around solution is to bypass and frequently check oil. The down time of a shop visit and cost, is prohibitive. My only local Honda shop tells me its up to a 6 month wait. My iMonitor says NONE for error codes. But, the only way to get access to iMonitor is a Manual Start, as Push Button fails, and Key doesn't turn it on. 
Thank You
jACK


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

open side door yellow wire coming out of the side of the block
is what you are looking for.

take a look at this gx390 video
yours is the basic same engine but with fi


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## jACK (Apr 5, 2021)

iowagold said:


> open side door yellow wire coming out of the side of the block
> is what you are looking for.
> 
> take a look at this gx390 video
> yours is the basic same engine but with fi


Thank You,
I Bypassed LOS just to rule it out. She ran for 35 minutes before stalling out. So, the stall out is related to the GCU not displaying iMonitor, and (new) Push Button not starting it. 
This appears to exonerate the LOS? Not Really. I performed the Oil level switch system inspection on page 8-10. Oil is new and proper level. There is continuity. 
I removed the GCU to test it. The only test that fails on page 10-9, is the Push Start. Its reading was 2.5 to 3.5 ohms. Well short of the specified values. The test for the iMonitor passing baffles me. Because it certainly doesn't from main key switch.
On page 4-22, I'm confident of the GCU replacement resolve. I'm trying to find the best cost for my checkbook. Unless another area to check comes up first? 
jACK


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## tabora (Sep 6, 2018)

jACK said:


> EU7000is start button will not start the generator.


Have you tried starting it via the remote start port? It's in the battery compartment. It's the G and W/Bu wires (with the key switch on).


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

Does the green OUTPUT light illuminate while running? Does it dim as the engine shuts down or turns off abruptly as the engine shuts down?

Can you cycle through the iMonitors four output displays after pull starting? What’s the voltage reading while running?


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## jACK (Apr 5, 2021)

drmerdp said:


> Does the green OUTPUT light illuminate while running? Does it dim as the engine shuts down or turns off abruptly as the engine shuts down?
> 
> Can you through the iMonitors four output displays after pull starting? What’s the voltage reading while running?


Aloha! Green light shuts down abruptly, during shut down. iMonitor reads 14.5 while running for battery. I don't have a remote start option device. Could I use any momentary switch, providing its wired correctly to use the denoted pins? Only as a test? And, would this be of any value troubleshooting ?
Thank You
jACK


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## tabora (Sep 6, 2018)

jACK said:


> Could I use any momentary switch, providing its wired correctly to use the denoted pins?


Yes. Even just a couple of wires with the connector pins on one end.


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

I would start by checking for 12v at the GCU connector. The fact that the iMonitor screen doesn’t turn on when you go key-on seems like the place to start. The wiring diagram shows three wires from key switch (ACC pin) to the GCU that have battery voltage.

2 green/yellow wires 
1 brown/yellow wire

Also looking through the shop manual section 4-19 has a flow chart for “i-monitor does not display with main switch turned on”.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

you might be on to something!
the computer has a key on sleep mode for when on hard wired remote run.
or with blue tooth option.


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## jACK (Apr 5, 2021)

tabora said:


> Yes. Even just a couple of wires with the connector pins on one end.


Aloha,
I was intending to assemble a momentary switch to test starting via the Remote Start Port (RSP). Then it occurred to me, I have an extra Push Start Button (PSB) for this machine. I can connect the PSB to the RSP, if I could find some detailed schematics of its 5 male terminals and wire colors affiliated with each. Then I can assemble a jumper pair to the PSB? If this starts it, I have a underground conduit 175' to house, to run the needed cable for the Honda Remote Control Box. There are wireless solutions. But, I don't have a failsafe running machine yet. As, GCU is still a uncertainty. I assume a successful RSP start will confirm a faulty GCU?
Is there a schematic somewhere, for the RSP? With which color does what?
Thank You!
jACK


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## tabora (Sep 6, 2018)

jACK said:


> Is there a schematic somewhere, for the RSP? With which color does what?


Ummm... I provided that back in post #10.


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

jACK said:


> Aloha,
> I was intending to assemble a momentary switch to test starting via the Remote Start Port (RSP). Then it occurred to me, I have an extra Push Start Button (PSB) for this machine. I can connect the PSB to the RSP, if I could find some detailed schematics of its 5 male terminals and wire colors affiliated with each. Then I can assemble a jumper pair to the PSB? If this starts it, I have a underground conduit 175' to house, to run the needed cable for the Honda Remote Control Box. There are wireless solutions. But, I don't have a failsafe running machine yet. As, GCU is still a uncertainty. I assume a successful RSP start will confirm a faulty GCU?
> Is there a schematic somewhere, for the RSP? With which color does what?
> Thank You!
> jACK


A remote start would not be of much help in diagnosis the GCU.The key switch’s power feed runs through the plug in the battery compartment. It’s the same feed source. You can momentarily ground the white/green wire at the remote start connector to confirm the push to start circuit. But the remote plug needs to remain installed.

You need to focus on the fact that the iMonitor doesn’t illuminate with the key on. Did you follow the 4-19 flow chart? Have you checked for power at the three wires I described?


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

yea it is a pain that these will not let you lap top in to the computer and inverter units...

hummm
maybe a bad spark coil...
those get heat sensitive...
replace the coil and the spark cap.
see if that get's it.

the 30 min run is a clue!


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## jACK (Apr 5, 2021)

tabora said:


> a
> Have you tried starting it via the remote start port? It's in the battery compartment. It's the G and W/Bu wires (with the key switch on).
> View attachment 9137
> 
> View attachment 9138


Aloha!
So, this course of action led to a successful resolve.
Behind the Remote Start plug in, I found a bit of corrosion on the Brown/Blue terminal, 12VDC positive. Pulled it apart cleaned completely, recrimped with DiaElectric grease applied. Put it back together. iMonitor came on, and KeySwitch and Push Start work perfectly. No die outs, after 1-1/2 hour run. I'll be putting it back in service later today!
I really appreciate all the expertise!
Thank You!
jACK


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## tabora (Sep 6, 2018)

Disassembly often makes the obscure clear... Congratulations!


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

you might want to dielectric grease every plug connection in the gen set...
it is a good thing!

in other brands i have seen under crimped harness issues!
I had another one of those today!
it had been to 4 other shops....
i found it in 10 min of checking harness with a test light.
that is the only thing i like about a test light ... it loads the wiring a bit.


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## neverfear (Oct 13, 2021)

jACK said:


> Aloha!
> So, this course of action led to a successful resolve.
> Behind the Remote Start plug in, I found a bit of corrosion on the Brown/Blue terminal, 12VDC positive. Pulled it apart cleaned completely, recrimped with DiaElectric grease applied. Put it back together. iMonitor came on, and KeySwitch and Push Start work perfectly. No die outs, after 1-1/2 hour run. I'll be putting it back in service later today!
> I really appreciate all the expertise!
> ...


I'm having the same problem. Thanks a bunch guys, not I know how to fix it myself. My local shop says 6 to 10 weeks after dropping off the unit to them, absurd!


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## rfs5178 (4 mo ago)

Same basic issue with a hurricane on the way here in Florida. Need to get creative. New battery. Fuses fine. Led does not light up when key turned on. No spark at plug. Starter button does not respond. I suspect a bad switch as a start, and won’t be able to get one before the storm hits. Any way to jump the switch connector and bypass the switch? Diagram is above. Just not sure which wires to jump. Thanks.


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## Dutchy491 (Sep 18, 2019)

Did you read Jack’s remedy….post #20? Easy enough to try, seeing as you don’t have much choice. 🤷


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## rfs5178 (4 mo ago)

I did and I checked. Do not see corrosion. Will double check this afternoon.


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## rfs5178 (4 mo ago)

And results, long story short, using the repair manual I determined the issue to be a bad control board. Took it to the dealer and they got back to me already. Same diagnosis. 

Really am pretty disappointed by this. Unit is five years old, but probably has less than 30 hours on it. Probably less than 20. Stored outside but covered and under the porch, protected from the elements. No good reason for the board to fail. Unit ran fine several months ago.

Hurricane here in two days and we will be without power for some time. Fortunately a neighbor has the same generator bought on my recommendation, and they are leaving until power is restored. So they’ve loaned me theirs. Thankful for good neighbors!


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## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

rfs5178 said:


> Really am pretty disappointed by this. Unit is five years old, but probably has less than 30 hours on it. Probably less than 20. Stored outside but covered and under the porch, protected from the elements. No good reason for the board to fail. Unit ran fine several months ago.


Well, that's a bummer. I don't live near the sea, but is it possible that fog can have salt in it? I should know that from being in the Navy, but we dealt with salt spray issues, not salt fog. That might account for board failure while it was in storage under the porch. Just thinking out loud here...



rfs5178 said:


> So they’ve loaned me theirs. Thankful for good neighbors!


That's a blessing!


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## rfs5178 (4 mo ago)

60 miles inland!


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

null


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## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

It must be the humidity getting into and wrecking havoc on exposed electronic components. Probably giving it a bit of time and patience to do an autopsy, the problem is likely as ridiculous as a corroded trace or a cold solder.


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