# Westinghouse Dual Fuel - Runs on Propane but won't start on Gas



## TimTheToolMan

Have a brand new dual fuel generator. Westinghouse 7500W.
Out of the box, works great on propane but won't start on gas.
I've been sure to open the gas valve and have verified that gas is getting into the carburetor by opening the drain valve on the carburetor.
I then closed the gas valve, waited for the carburetor to empty and opened the gas valve again. More gas came out.

What's even crazier, I took the spark plug out and put some gas out of the tank on the generator and put it directly into the cylinder.
Replaced the spark plug and it started right up and continued to run on gas.
It just won't start on gas. Either with the electric start or by hand pull.

I also ensured to put the choke on. The electric start manages the choke on it's own.


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## iowagold

check the electric sol valve on the bottom of the carb bowl.
make sure it gets power when gasoline is selected.
that is the gasoline shut off valve.


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## LGL

We have the EXACT same problem, and can't get any sort of response from Customer Service.

Did you ever figure out what was wrong?


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## FlyFisher

TimTheToolMan said:


> What's even crazier, I took the spark plug out and put some gas out of the tank on the generator and put it directly into the cylinder.
> Replaced the spark plug and it started right up and continued to run on gas.
> It just won't start on gas. Either with the electric start or by hand pull.





iowagold said:


> check the electric sol valve on the bottom of the carb bowl.
> make sure it gets power when gasoline is selected.
> that is the gasoline shut off valve.





LGL said:


> We have the EXACT same problem, and can't get any sort of response from Customer Service.


Do you have a multi-meter? That is the first thing I would go to as iowagold pointed out - the solenoid needs to be powered. If the unit continues to run on gasoline but it won't start on gasoline - is the solenoid getting power when not running but gasoline is selected? If it is not I suspect that is the issue.


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## iowagold

also the sol can get stuck or corked up with trash.
remove the bowl and inspect.
if it is full of trash...
most of the time it is lower cost to replace the carb.
pm if you need links for carbs.


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## LGL

FlyFisher said:


> Do you have a multi-meter? That is the first thing I would go to as iowagold pointed out - the solenoid needs to be powered. If the unit continues to run on gasoline but it won't start on gasoline - is the solenoid getting power when not running but gasoline is selected? If it is not I suspect that is the issue.


Thanks. I don't know if it will run on gas - we did not try to switch fuel. We hooked it up to the propane only to find out if it would run at all. We'll try that next. I do have a multimeter (inherited from my father) but I have no idea how to even begin to check if the solenoid is powered. And if it was bad, wouldn't it have to be replaced? So it seems to me, I still need warranty service.

I have to say, I am totally fed up with Westinghouse Customer Service. I understand they are overwhelmed, but I put in a service request over a month ago, and outside of an automated response we have heard nothing. A request to determine the status of the original service request has produced no response. The local warranty service provider won't look at the machine without authorization from Westinghouse.


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## LGL

iowagold said:


> also the sol can get stuck or corked up with trash.
> remove the bowl and inspect.
> if it is full of trash...
> most of the time it is lower cost to replace the carb.
> pm if you need links for carbs.


This machine has *never run*! It has about 30 seconds of run time on it - long enough to see that it would indeed start and run on propane.


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## FlyFisher

LGL said:


> I have no idea how to even begin to check if the solenoid is powered. And if it was bad, wouldn't it have to be replaced?


Check for voltage. The solenoid, powered by electricity, will have wires going to it. You trace the wires to where they connect. That would be the best way - probe those connections. If you can not get to where those wires connect then open up the wires with a knife, carefully so you don't cut any of the strands inside, and get to where your multimeter probes can contact the metal inside the sheath. If you go this route use electric tape (3m super 33+ or super 88, nothing else compares - stay away from the cheap tape) to seal up where you open up the wires. 

If the solenoid wasn't working you wouldn't have gas getting to the engine. 

Go back to what you stated earlier in your diagnosis of the issue - you have the EXACT same issue as the original post in this thread. The unit will not "Start" on gas, but once running (gas injected in to the cylinder via the spark plug hole in the original posters' case) then the generator will keep running. 

Think though this one logically - if the generator will "keep running" on gasoline once primed that has to mean that the fuel solenoid is powered. If it is not powered then it would be closed, thus no fuel flow, and thus the engine will not keep running once the gas that was injected in to the cylinder through the spark plug hole was used up. 

Again, thinking logically here - if the unit will not "Start" on gasoline because fuel is not reaching the cylinder - which is the result of the question of whether or not the solenoid is getting powered (if the solenoid is NOT powered then it would hold the fuel off and not allow it to flow) - then the solution is to power the solenoid. 

The question right now is why the solenoid is powered once the generator is running, but is not powered when the generator is not running, though gasoline is selected. If you can check the power to the solenoid the power check will confirm this and you can diagnose that very question with authority, or it will debunk the theory and the diagnosis needs to be shifted to another aspect of how the system works. 

For an engine to run you need 4 things - air, fuel, compression, and heat. In a conventional engine with a spark plug that means you need air, fuel, compression and spark. You have proven that the engine will run on gasoline - if you, in fact, have the EXACT same issue as the original post - because you put gas in the spark plug hole and it starts, and continues to run. So why are all 4 of those parameters being met after fuel is injected in to the spark plug hole, but not prior to? 

Again - think logically. The first thing that would make sense in "why the 4 parameters are not being met prior to the unit running" is whether the solenoid is being powered correctly. You need to verify that with your multimeter. Once you verify that then you can proceed deeper in the troubleshooting - which ever path your multimeter reading leads you on. 

The only 2 parameters of the 4 that I think are worthy of questioning are fuel and spark. Is there anything that prevents spark aside from the engine on/run switch? It appears there is an extra safety on the gasoline side with the solenoid - so again, that is a major question. Just to toss it out there, without knowing that specific unit, is there anything that will short the ignition out if a parameter isn't met? Although, logically thinking here - if so then fuel going directly in to the cylinder through the spark plug hole wouldn't get the engine running as it does.


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## iowagold

LGL said:


> This machine has *never run*! It has about 30 seconds of run time on it - long enough to see that it would indeed start and run on propane.


it could have trash from the factory in there.
or be sticking..
we had that on new gasoline engines that had the fuel shut down sol.
you can verify the operation by turning on and off the key and should feel the thunk on the carb bowl when you turn the power switch to on.
it is in the normal closed when the power switch is off or the fuel selector switch is turned to the LP pos.
you could have a wiring issue on those switches!
when trying to run on gasoline make sure the fuel selector is set to gasoline fuel.
and check to see if there is a manual gasoline tank shut off under the gasoline tank.


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## FlyFisher

iowagold said:


> it could have trash from the factory in there.
> or be sticking..
> we had that on new gasoline engines that had the fuel shut down sol.
> you can verify the operation by turning on and off the key and should feel the thunk on the carb bowl when you turn the power switch to on.
> it is in the normal closed when the power switch is off or the fuel selector switch is turned to the LP pos.
> you could have a wiring issue on those switches!
> when trying to run on gasoline make sure the fuel selector is set to gasoline fuel.
> and check to see if there is a manual gasoline tank shut off under the gasoline tank.


LGL stated in his first post in this thread that he has the same exact issue as the OP. So I am interpreting that to mean he has pulled the spark plug and put gas directly in the cylinder to get it to run on gasoline - and that it will run on gasoline past the point of the gasoline directly in the cylinder being burned up. So if it continues to run on gasoline then the junk in the carb doesn't stack up - that would block the fuel, even though in that theory the solenoid is being powered and allowing fuel to flow - the gunk in the carb would block it thus cutting the engine off. So if the engine continuously runs after the priming via gas directly in the cylinder thru the spark plug hole then there isn't any restriction - once the engine is running - through the fuel system. 

So the mystery is why there is a restriction in the fuel system when the engine is off and trying to start. That gets back to the 4 required criteria of what is required for an engine to run - compression, fuel, air, and spark. Which of the 4 is the engine not getting when trying to start - and why?


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## iowagold

well the gas sol could be electrically connected at the wrong point on the gen set.
it needs to be connected for power from the battery when the key is on and the gasoline fuel is selected.
pretty easy to test flow on these.
just open the bowl drain screw.


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## FlyFisher

iowagold said:


> well the gas sol could be electrically connected at the wrong point on the gen set.
> it needs to be connected for power from the battery when the key is on and the gasoline fuel is selected.
> pretty easy to test flow on these.
> just open the bowl drain screw.


I had the same thought also. Tracing power etc with a multimeter and doing some of the other tests - like gas in the spark plug hole, opening the bowl drain as you suggest, etc. - are all methods to further acquire information to diagnose. LGL needs to get his hands a bit dirtier and dig in. I can understand the thought of "its a brand new unit, I shouldn't have to". However, that is the only thing any of us have to rely on when we're in immediate need - ourselves. When you rely on others and others don't care, are too busy, or have their own immediate needs to wrap up before they address yours - you are hanging out to dry. With regards to the generator starting and running correctly - there is a way to get through the challenge, but if you aren't willing to do it then it won't do itself. 

If you aren't willing to do it and don't want the headaches - and won't trust the unit if you do overcome the headaches present at the current point in time - then toss the generator in the trash and go to a local vendor that sells, installs, and maintains generators and buy a whole package from them. I dare say Generac, but knowing they've had a LOT of customer service issues and quality issues I would heavily guard against them. I am not sure who else caters to the smaller home backup units and has widespread service (maintenance guys that can get to you to service your unit) around the country, however. CAT and Kohler are larger, more commercial type units. In any event, find a vendor local to you and let them do everything. Its as easy as opening your wallet - you don't have to lift a finger. To get the unit installed an operational - open your wallet. To have the annual or biannual maintenance done by them - just open your wallet. When things go south and something needs replaced, if its under warranty its covered. If its out of warranty - just open your wallet. As long as your cash flow to them is steady they will keep you running - on their time, not necessarily yours even if the SHTF. If you have a natural disaster and the whole state is out of power they will gladly get to you when they can - even if its a week after the power comes back on. Just open your wallet.


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## TimTheToolMan

An update. Called warranty support, they had me start it on propane and then switch it live over to gas. Worked perfectly. I disconnected the propane tank and it kept running for another half hour or so.


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## iowagold

you are back to what i posted before
well the gas sol could be electrically connected at the wrong point on the gen set.
it needs to be connected for power from the battery when the key is on and the gasoline fuel is selected. 

you have fuel in the bowl.
the sol when energized lets fuel in to the main and low speed passages.

this fuel stop was a cool design before ethanol came out.
on older units that have had ethanol in them the sol is low in the fuel system
and gets corked up with trash for a no run.
any tech who does a lot with these small engines have ran in to this at least once.
lol or once a day!

and yes i have seen them not wired right on the fuel stop sol.
check the wiring..
they have the fuel stop wired at the engine run not at the key on and gasoline selected point.
or it is just sticking off till the vibration of the run on lp shakes it loose.


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## FlyFisher

TimTheToolMan said:


> An update. Called warranty support, they had me start it on propane and then switch it live over to gas. Worked perfectly. I disconnected the propane tank and it kept running for another half hour or so.


So if that was the first time you had the unit running on gasoline then you did NOT have the EXACT issue as the OP. That makes it harder to troubleshoot when you don't have the whole scope of the issue. 

If you need someone to hold your hand as you "diagnose" the issue, not just give you guidance/direction to have some self-aptitude to dive in yourself and keep at it, then how are you going to maintain the unit and keep it running when you really need to rely on the generator? Say, after a natural disaster, when you can't get ahold of anyone knowledgeable? 

In any event, switching to gasoline after running on propane essentially did the same thing* as the OP putting gas directly in the cylinder through the spark plug. Which at this point in the thread that leaves me to believe you did not take the spark plug out and put gas in there as the OP did to get it to run on gasoline. 

*I say "essentially did the same thing" because they are 2 different methods that allow the engine to run prior to it running normally on gasoline. So what the method of running on propane first proves is that the engine can "run" on gasoline, but not "start" on gasoline. 

You did not make any progress with this diagnosis - you are at the same square you've been. If you would have used your multimeter and checked the power at the gas solenoid and traced that back like was suggested earlier you would have made a lot more progress. Just saying. You had the manufacturer's help line take a different path to get you to the same spot we've been - after the fact. 

So go back to what I posted earlier:



FlyFisher said:


> For an engine to run you need 4 things - air, fuel, compression, and heat. In a conventional engine with a spark plug that means you need air, fuel, compression and spark. You have proven that the engine will run on gasoline - if you, in fact, have the EXACT same issue as the original post - because you put gas in the spark plug hole and it starts, and continues to run. *So why are all 4 of those parameters being met after fuel is injected in to the spark plug hole, but not prior to?*


And for update's sake - substitute the "fuel injected in to the spark plug hole" with "starting on propane and switching to gasoline".

Multimeter time. It's been that for a while, why the hesitation?


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## dish8690

TimTheToolMan said:


> Have a brand new dual fuel generator. Westinghouse 7500W.
> Out of the box, works great on propane but won't start on gas.
> I've been sure to open the gas valve and have verified that gas is getting into the carburetor by opening the drain valve on the carburetor.
> I then closed the gas valve, waited for the carburetor to empty and opened the gas valve again. More gas came out.
> 
> What's even crazier, I took the spark plug out and put some gas out of the tank on the generator and put it directly into the cylinder.
> Replaced the spark plug and it started right up and continued to run on gas.
> It just won't start on gas. Either with the electric start or by hand pull.
> 
> I also ensured to put the choke on. The electric start manages the choke on it's own.


 Same issue 9500 let abit of gas out of the bowl drain and now starts with gas.


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## Jumbo Nono

TimTheToolMan said:


> Have a brand new dual fuel generator. Westinghouse 7500W.
> Out of the box, works great on propane but won't start on gas.
> I've been sure to open the gas valve and have verified that gas is getting into the carburetor by opening the drain valve on the carburetor.
> I then closed the gas valve, waited for the carburetor to empty and opened the gas valve again. More gas came out.
> 
> What's even crazier, I took the spark plug out and put some gas out of the tank on the generator and put it directly into the cylinder.
> Replaced the spark plug and it started right up and continued to run on gas.
> It just won't start on gas. Either with the electric start or by hand pull.
> 
> I also ensured to put the choke on. The electric start manages the choke on it's own.


I fixed this problem today. Short answer. It was a stuck needle valve solenoid on the bottom of the carburetor bowl. 

My nearly new generator only ran monthly since last spring to keep it lubed etc. Yesterday we had our first power outage of the fall generator would only start and run on LPG and died immediately when switched to Gasoline. I called Tech Support this/Saturday morning and a real person answered. She took my contact info, but said the tech wouldn’t call until Monday. I ensured there was gas getting to all points between the tank and into the carb bowl. Finally removed the two Phillips screws holding the solenoid needle valve to the bottom of the bowl and drained the gas. I gently tapped the needle valve several times. Not sure if it was a stuck needle valve or some gunk, but when I reassembled the carb and opened the gas tank valve, it started on gas. I closed the tank valve and ran the generator until it used all the gas in the lines and carb bowl as directed in the maintenance manual. Now when tech support calls on Monday I can see if they want to send me a new part. So far I am very satisfied with the Westinghouse 9500DF. Assembly was easy, the manuals and tool kits were complete and well thought out. I was able to reach the places I needed to work to fix this problem and the lady who answered the phone at support was nice


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## mchlwvr614

FlyFisher said:


> Do you have a multi-meter? That is the first thing I would go to as iowagold pointed out - the solenoid needs to be powered. If the unit continues to run on gasoline but it won't start on gasoline - is the solenoid getting power when not running but gasoline is selected? If it is not I suspect that is the issue.


Thanks for posting this. I wiggled the wire from the selector switch and heard the solenoid clicking. I'll have to check the wiring.


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## ajnuzzi

This is going to sound like a really dumb answer but it worked for me, I got this tip from someone else. I had originally put about a gallon of gas in the tank which was plenty to cover the bottom of the tank enough that you would think fuel would reach the carb. Could not get it to run on gas for the life of me....I tried putting about a half a tank in, maybe 4 gallons and boom-started right up. Apparently this is a common mistake on this particular gen set


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## Columbotrek

TimTheToolMan said:


> Have a brand new dual fuel generator. Westinghouse 7500W.
> Out of the box, works great on propane but won't start on gas.
> I've been sure to open the gas valve and have verified that gas is getting into the carburetor by opening the drain valve on the carburetor.
> I then closed the gas valve, waited for the carburetor to empty and opened the gas valve again. More gas came out.
> 
> What's even crazier, I took the spark plug out and put some gas out of the tank on the generator and put it directly into the cylinder.
> Replaced the spark plug and it started right up and continued to run on gas.
> It just won't start on gas. Either with the electric start or by hand pull.
> 
> I also ensured to put the choke on. The electric start manages the choke on it's own.


What is the altitude above sea level of your generator? See what happens if you prevent the unit from adding carburetor choke while starting.


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## charchill

Jumbo Nono said:


> I fixed this problem today. Short answer. It was a stuck needle valve solenoid on the bottom of the carburetor bowl.
> 
> My nearly new generator only ran monthly since last spring to keep it lubed etc. Yesterday we had our first power outage of the fall generator would only start and run on LPG and died immediately when switched to Gasoline. I called Tech Support this/Saturday morning and a real person answered. She took my contact info, but said the tech wouldn’t call until Monday. I ensured there was gas getting to all points between the tank and into the carb bowl. Finally removed the two Phillips screws holding the solenoid needle valve to the bottom of the bowl and drained the gas. I gently tapped the needle valve several times. Not sure if it was a stuck needle valve or some gunk, but when I reassembled the carb and opened the gas tank valve, it started on gas. I closed the tank valve and ran the generator until it used all the gas in the lines and carb bowl as directed in the maintenance manual. Now when tech support calls on Monday I can see if they want to send me a new part. So far I am very satisfied with the Westinghouse 9500DF. Assembly was easy, the manuals and tool kits were complete and well thought out. I was able to reach the places I needed to work to fix this problem and the lady who answered the phone at support was nice


Thanks, can you send an image of where you took off the two phillip screws to the solenoid needle? My Wgen9500DF won't start, brand new. I'm trying to take this thing apart. full gas and oil new, it started last year when I bought, but seems it's a problem with many westinghouse as I'm reading online.


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## ajnuzzi

charchill said:


> Thanks, can you send an image of where you took off the two phillip screws to the solenoid needle? My Wgen9500DF won't start, brand new. I'm trying to take this thing apart. full gas and oil new, it started last year when I bought, but seems it's a problem with many westinghouse as I'm reading online.


I would try this first. It's probably the simplest solution and you may get lucky and it will fix your problem.



fix generator surging - Google Search


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## marksandoval1975

Jumbo Nono said:


> I fixed this problem today. Short answer. It was a stuck needle valve solenoid on the bottom of the carburetor bowl.
> 
> My nearly new generator only ran monthly since last spring to keep it lubed etc. Yesterday we had our first power outage of the fall generator would only start and run on LPG and died immediately when switched to Gasoline. I called Tech Support this/Saturday morning and a real person answered. She took my contact info, but said the tech wouldn’t call until Monday. I ensured there was gas getting to all points between the tank and into the carb bowl. Finally removed the two Phillips screws holding the solenoid needle valve to the bottom of the bowl and drained the gas. I gently tapped the needle valve several times. Not sure if it was a stuck needle valve or some gunk, but when I reassembled the carb and opened the gas tank valve, it started on gas. I closed the tank valve and ran the generator until it used all the gas in the lines and carb bowl as directed in the maintenance manual. Now when tech support calls on Monday I can see if they want to send me a new part. So far I am very satisfied with the Westinghouse 9500DF. Assembly was easy, the manuals and tool kits were complete and well thought out. I was able to reach the places I needed to work to fix this problem and the lady who answered the phone at support was nice


We boughta qestinf house it won't crank over any ideas. We tried almost everything but spark plug. Uuuugh and warranty and customer service suck.


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## OrlyP

marksandoval1975 said:


> We boughta qestinf house it won't crank over any ideas. We tried almost everything but spark plug. Uuuugh and warranty and customer service suck.


Might be best if you create a new thread.


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## charchill

So, I replaced my oil, replaced spark plug, removed all gas, but you also have to remove all gas from carburetor. I took apart my carb and cleaned it, every little hole with carb cleaner, with a hole cleaner tool, put it back together with fresh gas, and still didn’t start. I called and they said check the solenoid, which I didn’t clean, didn’t know you can since I unscrewed that off the carburetor. I cleaned the solenoid, just the needle tip, and it started on first start. All that work and it was the solenoid gummed up with old gas. I also previously sprayed starter fluid multiple times before the solenoid cleaning, but it wouldn’t start. This time cleaning the solenoid, and no starter fluid and it started. However, there was some slight smoke after I stopped the engine, maybe left over from all the starter fluid I tried.


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## jessem1001

TimTheToolMan said:


> An update. Called warranty support, they had me start it on propane and then switch it live over to gas. Worked perfectly. I disconnected the propane tank and it kept running for another half hour or so.


I believe the issue is the automatic choke. I have the exact problem. It will start on propane and continue to run if I switch it to gasoline. Problem seems to be that if engine is cold or its cold outside the choke doesnt close. If I manually close the choke the generator starts right up on gasoline. Support at first wanted to replace the carb until I gave thme that information. Then decided to have me replace the control board. That didn't fix it either. Still waiting to hear their next suggestion.


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## jessem1001

Columbotrek said:


> What is the altitude above sea level of your generator? See what happens if you prevent the unit from adding carburetor choke while starting.


I have a 9500DF generator with the same symptoms. Will start everytime on propane and can be switched over to gasoline and it will keep running. The issue as I have observed is temperature replated. If its below around 55 degrees out side the generator will not start. If I manually close the choke it will start right up. From what I have observered the choke fully closes but then moves back to open position when its cold. The control module was first thing support sent to be replaced. Didnt do a thing for it. Next was the servo motor and carb. After installing the parts the generator started right up. I observed that the choke fully closed and remained so until it started. The temperature at that time was 63 degrees. Next day with the temperature in the 40's I am back to a non starting generator unless I manually move the choke. The choke moves to the closed position and then back to the open position before the engine starts. This seems to be either a design flaw or a parts issue. This type of problem most likely would not be observed in a repair shop unless they keep it cold.


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## OrlyP

jessem1001 said:


> I have a 9500DF generator with the same symptoms. Will start everytime on propane and can be switched over to gasoline and it will keep running. The issue as I have observed is temperature replated. If its below around 55 degrees out side the generator will not start. If I manually close the choke it will start right up. From what I have observered the choke fully closes but then moves back to open position when its cold. The control module was first thing support sent to be replaced. Didnt do a thing for it. Next was the servo motor and carb. After installing the parts the generator started right up. I observed that the choke fully closed and remained so until it started. The temperature at that time was 63 degrees. Next day with the temperature in the 40's I am back to a non starting generator unless I manually move the choke. The choke moves to the closed position and then back to the open position before the engine starts. This seems to be either a design flaw or a parts issue. This type of problem most likely would not be observed in a repair shop unless they keep it cold.


Based on your very detailed observation, it does look like a design flaw. It's not getting stuck or anything at low temps, right? It just wants to open the choke when it's cold... which is the opposite of what's needed to start the engine.

Some underpaid software programmer in China is slipping. lol


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## JAM1976

TimTheToolMan said:


> Have a brand new dual fuel generator. Westinghouse 7500W.
> Out of the box, works great on propane but won't start on gas.
> I've been sure to open the gas valve and have verified that gas is getting into the carburetor by opening the drain valve on the carburetor.
> I then closed the gas valve, waited for the carburetor to empty and opened the gas valve again. More gas came out.
> 
> What's even crazier, I took the spark plug out and put some gas out of the tank on the generator and put it directly into the cylinder.
> Replaced the spark plug and it started right up and continued to run on gas.
> It just won't start on gas. Either with the electric start or by hand pull.
> 
> I also ensured to put the choke on. The electric start manages the choke on it's own.


I had the exact same problem with my Westinghouse WGen9500DF. I bought it brand new, it would only run on Propane, not Gasoline. I finally got it working today (July 3rd, 2022). I was able to get mine running on Gasoline after a couple hours of troubleshooting, and watching a few YouTube videos. After a lot of troubleshooting, this is what finally fixed mine (no thanks to Westinghouse customer service).

I shut off the gas valve, turned front dial to Propane, then drained the carburetor float bowl (Owner Manual Pg. 25). The fuel that drained out looked like an amber beer. Very dirty gasoline from the factory! According to one of the YouTube videos, dirty gas can also cause a stuck Solenoid. 
I had to remove the entire Air Filter box/casing so I could slide the carburetor off and get a screw driver to the Solenoid and remove it. 
Solenoid shaft was not mobile. I had to use plyers to free it up and get it sliding (most likely caused by residue buildup-up from the factories dirty gas). I used my air compressor to blow it out, poured some clean Gasoline on it and kept pressing on the shaft until it was sliding easily. That had to be stopping gas flow through the carburetor. 
I reassembled everything (be careful, I damaged two gaskets that I now need to replace); turned gas valve to on, turned front knob to Gasoline. 
According to another YouTube video, air pockets in fuel lines can also prevent start-up. So, I followed what the guy did in the video; removed the spark plug, poured about two ounces of gasoline through the spark plug hole, and attempted to start. It ran for about 7 seconds and shut off. Marginal success.
I re-drained the carburetor float bowl (my clean gasoline came out ruling out any blockage), removed the spark plug, changed the spark plug gap from the factory 0.028 to 0.030. This time I poured 6oz of gasoline into spark plug hole. This did it. The generator fire up, I let it run for 5 minutes to give it ample time get any potential air out of the gas lines. For good measure, and to ensure I didn't screw anything else up (other than the gaskets), I turned it on/off several times, and also alternated between Gasoline and Propane. It is running on both without any issues (at least for today). 
I hope this helps anyone else that reads this post, because you cannot count out Westinghouse customer service to be of any help. I called several times, I kept getting put on hold and hanging up after 20 minutes. I am not a mechanic! The hassle I had to go through to get mine running ensured I will never again buy a Westinghouse product due to their lack of customer service, and the fact I now have to spend more money and time ordering/replacing the carburetor gaskets.


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## OrlyP

Here's my experience when I changed the fuel lines on my old generator. The fuel lines I installed leached when new and the fuel came out as amber-colored when gasoline was allowed to soak the inside over a length of time (2-3 days, I think). Though, a couple of weeks later, fuel coming out became progressively clear. I don't know what that chemical is but the engine started and burned it off without drama. 

However, I think it can be a potential problem when this residue is allowed to sit, settle and harden inside the carb.


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## InitialForce

TimTheToolMan said:


> Have a brand new dual fuel generator. Westinghouse 7500W.
> Out of the box, works great on propane but won't start on gas.
> I've been sure to open the gas valve and have verified that gas is getting into the carburetor by opening the drain valve on the carburetor.
> I then closed the gas valve, waited for the carburetor to empty and opened the gas valve again. More gas came out.
> 
> What's even crazier, I took the spark plug out and put some gas out of the tank on the generator and put it directly into the cylinder.
> Replaced the spark plug and it started right up and continued to run on gas.
> It just won't start on gas. Either with the electric start or by hand pull.
> 
> I also ensured to put the choke on. The electric start manages the choke on it's own.





TimTheToolMan said:


> Have a brand new dual fuel generator. Westinghouse 7500W.
> Out of the box, works great on propane but won't start on gas.
> I've been sure to open the gas valve and have verified that gas is getting into the carburetor by opening the drain valve on the carburetor.
> I then closed the gas valve, waited for the carburetor to empty and opened the gas valve again. More gas came out.
> 
> What's even crazier, I took the spark plug out and put some gas out of the tank on the generator and put it directly into the cylinder.
> Replaced the spark plug and it started right up and continued to run on gas.
> It just won't start on gas. Either with the electric start or by hand pull.
> 
> I also ensured to put the choke on. The electric start manages the choke on it's own.


I had the exact same issue. Check volta


TimTheToolMan said:


> Have a brand new dual fuel generator. Westinghouse 7500W.
> Out of the box, works great on propane but won't start on gas.
> I've been sure to open the gas valve and have verified that gas is getting into the carburetor by opening the drain valve on the carburetor.
> I then closed the gas valve, waited for the carburetor to empty and opened the gas valve again. More gas came out.
> 
> What's even crazier, I took the spark plug out and put some gas out of the tank on the generator and put it directly into the cylinder.
> Replaced the spark plug and it started right up and continued to run on gas.
> It just won't start on gas. Either with the electric start or by hand pull.
> 
> I also ensured to put the choke on. The electric start manages the choke on it's own.


I had the same problem. Would run on propane but not on gasoline. I removed the solenoid at the bottom of the carburetor bowl and found it gummed up with a bunch of junk around it from the factory. What I did is I grabbed the little shaft away from the pointed end with a pair or needle nose pliers and twisted it to get it to break free, then I cleaned it with carb cleaner and lubed it with wd40, worked it back and forth with my finger a bunch and then it started working when I turned the selector to gas and turned the on switch on. Hope this helps someone.


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## Mikewaltz

FlyFisher said:


> LGL stated in his first post in this thread that he has the same exact issue as the OP. So I am interpreting that to mean he has pulled the spark plug and put gas directly in the cylinder to get it to run on gasoline - and that it will run on gasoline past the point of the gasoline directly in the cylinder being burned up. So if it continues to run on gasoline then the junk in the carb doesn't stack up - that would block the fuel, even though in that theory the solenoid is being powered and allowing fuel to flow - the gunk in the carb would block it thus cutting the engine off. So if the engine continuously runs after the priming via gas directly in the cylinder thru the spark plug hole then there isn't any restriction - once the engine is running - through the fuel system. So the mystery is why there is a restriction in the fuel system when the engine is off and trying to start. That gets back to the 4 required criteria of what is required for an engine to run - compression, fuel, air, and spark. Which of the 4 is the engine not getting when trying to start - and why?


 Thank you! I got brand new WGEN9500DF; it would not start. Exact same issue, would crank right up after injecting fuel in cylinder head. You said said power to solenoid prior to running. It was exactly that! It was a loose power connection going to the solenoid. Fired right up! You are awesome!


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## Mikewaltz

Mikewaltz said:


> Thank you! I got brand new WGEN9500DF; it would not start. Exact same issue, would crank right up after injecting fuel in cylinder head. You said said power to solenoid prior to running. It was exactly that! It was a loose power connection going to the solenoid. Fired right up! You are awesome!


Just to clarify, thank you Flyfisher.


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## FlyFisher

Mikewaltz said:


> Thank you! I got brand new WGEN9500DF; it would not start. Exact same issue, would crank right up after injecting fuel in cylinder head. You said said power to solenoid prior to running. It was exactly that! It was a loose power connection going to the solenoid. Fired right up! You are awesome!


Glad my post was helpful to you. Don't disappear after resolving your issue. Theres all kinds of good information floating around the forums here. There are lots of knowledgeable folks here.


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## Mikewaltz

FlyFisher said:


> Glad my post was helpful to you. Don't disappear after resolving your issue. Theres all kinds of good information floating around the forums here. There are lots of knowledgeable folks here.


 I won’t. Thanks again.


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## Florida Boy

Mikewaltz said:


> Thank you! I got brand new WGEN9500DF; it would not start. Exact same issue, would crank right up after injecting fuel in cylinder head. You said said power to solenoid prior to running. It was exactly that! It was a loose power connection going to the solenoid. Fired right up! You are awesome!


Same problem. Runs on propane, but will not start on gasoline. I am trying to trace the wires on my 9500DF that go to the fuel shut off solenoid on the bottom of the carburetor. I do not have any voltage in the harness going to them when I unplugged them from the main harness. I also checked the fuel selector valve wires and do not have any power their either. ON/OFF is in on position. Battery is charged up. Does anyone know where the power comes from the SHOULD be at the fuel selector switch?


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## OrlyP

Refer to the diagram....

I see three possible issues:

1. The fuel selector is not physically engaging the "Gasoline" switch (the microswitch with two Orange wires denoted by A & B). The dial should have a cam that pushes this switch ON when set to Gasoline. Make sure that it does.
2. That microswitch may be defective.
3. There's an undocumented control box (E) that, among other things, controls the solenoid through its ground (D). It may be defective

You can check if the solenoid is ok by disconnecting both its wires and directly driving 12V into it and you should hear it click. 

To further diagnose... use a multimeter set to DC voltage and then connect the Black probe using the battery negative terminal as Ground reference (C).

With the Ignition switch turned ON, there should be +12V on one of the Orange wire (A) going to the microswitch. With the fuel selector switch set to Gasoline, this switch should be closed and so both Orange wires on this switch should have +12V (A and B). If not, then the switch is defective.

If you read +12V on wire B with reference to Battery ground, then it must mean that the control box E is not providing ground for the solenoid on wire D, preventing it from energizing.

You just need to find out where the circuit broke for the solenoid. 

Happy hunting!


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## Florida Boy

OrlyP said:


> Refer to the diagram....
> 
> I see three possible issues:
> 
> 1. The fuel selector is not physically engaging the "Gasoline" switch (the microswitch with two Orange wires denoted by A & B). The dial should have a cam that pushes this switch ON when set to Gasoline. Make sure that it does.
> 2. That microswitch may be defective.
> 3. There's an undocumented control box (E) that, among other things, controls the solenoid through its ground (D). It may be defective
> 
> You can check if the solenoid is ok by disconnecting both its wires and directly driving 12V into it and you should hear it click.
> 
> To further diagnose... use a multimeter set to DC voltage and then connect the Black probe using the battery negative terminal as Ground reference (C).
> 
> With the Ignition switch turned ON, there should be +12V on one of the Orange wire (A) going to the microswitch. With the fuel selector switch set to Gasoline, this switch should be closed and so both Orange wires on this switch should have +12V (A and B). If not, then the switch is defective.
> 
> If you read +12V on wire B with reference to Battery ground, then it must mean that the control box E is not providing ground for the solenoid on wire D, preventing it from energizing.
> 
> You just need to find out where the circuit broke for the solenoid.
> 
> Happy hunting!
> 
> View attachment 12979


Thank you for the info you posted. I will work through this today & see what I can find out and post back.
As Paul Harvey used to say, "and now for the rest of the story".

I was directly impacted by Hurricane Ian and lost electrical and internet. I purchased this generator about two years ago, but had not needed it until recently. I would start it and test operation using propane and allow it to run for 10 minutes and shut it off. No problems whatsoever on propane. I did not put gasoline in the tank as I did not want stale fuel to worry about. That was my mistake as I should have and perhaps would have solved the gasoline operation before it became such an issue. As to Ian, I used the standard 20 pound propane tanks. I would start the generator about 7:30 AM and run it for 4 hours, shut it off for 3 or 4 hours and restart. I did this to save on propane. I never let it run past 11:30 PM. I believe I used about 5 or 6 of the 20 pound tanks. Midway through the outage I added 5 gallons of gasoline and attempted to start it, but it never hit so I went back to propane figuring I would address that issue later. I did try once more on gasoline but no luck again. 
The afternoon TECO restored service I shut the generator off and unplugged the 50 amp cord running to the interlock and flipped the breaker over. About 30 minutes later I went to restart the generator to warm it up prior to changing the oil. NOTHING! It was as if the battery was totally dead. The battery was fine at 12.8 volts. I entered a case with Westinghouse and they sent me the following: Start/Stop switch, ON/OFF switch. Controller board, and a complete starter. I replaced the items shipped and the generator fired up fine. 

I tried to start it with propane then shifting to gasoline immediately, but it would not switch over and run. Hopefully with your help & advice I can resolve the issue. I am still puzzled by the total lack of a 12 volt positive current. One of the two leads to the fuel solenoid does have a good ground (negative) connection, but the other is just dead regardless of where I move any of the switches. 

If all else fails, I am seriously considering adding a 12 volt positive lead from the battery to a new toggle switch, leaving the supposed to be hot lead from the harness disconnected and attaching the new lead to the pigtail from the fuel solenoid. I would just have to switch the toggle to ON when I wanted to operate on gasoline. Maybe or Maybe Not. I will do my best to follow your instructions and keep everything as original.

As a side note: I grew up in and worked in a Ford Tractor dealership for the first 35 years of my life so I do still retain a bit of skill and tools. My next nearly 40 years were as a troubleshooter and problem fixer for the US EPA and NASA, so I picked up some random skills there. Hopefully, something will click on! I will post back what I end up with. 

Thanks again!


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## OrlyP

You've had a very rich and interesting career. Congrats!

As to your issue, I'm now ever more inclined to think that the problem is upstream of the solenoid 12V source. That would mean the microswitch inside the fuel selector (with wires designated A & B). I'd focus on that. 

If the switch works, find where the +12V stopped along the Orange wire going back to the Ignition Switch Pin 1, then the Ignition Switch Pin 2, up to the Red wire going back to the battery B+ terminal.

I don't suppose the 20A fuse is open, since you're able to start it on propane.


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## Florida Boy

We are caregivers for our USN disabled daughter and I didn't get to spend as much time on this as I wanted to. I was able to confirm the fuel selection switch had continuity orange to orange good, and brown to brown good when selecting each fuel option. 
The red fuse was also verified as good.
The fuel solenoid on the carb still only works when I hook it directly to the battery with jumpers. 
I removed the tape around the harness behind the control panel and will try to trace the wires tomorrow. Perhaps now that I can see the wires I might be in a better position. 
I reconnected the original control panel and didn't find any difference in the way it functioned. 
I will connect the new large style ON/OFF switch tomorrow to see if that makes a difference. 
More to come....


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## Florida Boy

I managed to grab a couple of hours this morning to work on this again. I honestly believe that I disconnected and reconnected every connection behind the control panel at least two or more times and I have a fair understanding of the wiring. 
Anyway, I reassembled everything, added three gallons of new fuel, flipped the ON/OFF and it fired right up. It ran on both propane and gasoline with no problem. The gasoline was a bit surging for about the first couple of minutes but eventually smoothed out. 
As I said earlier, thank you for your effort in assisting me to get this issue resolved. Honestly, I have to say I am not sure at all what exactly fixed it. All I know is it works as it should now. 
I had opened a request for help with Westinghouse, but I have never heard back from them. 
As many of these that are having about the same issue I have to believe Westinghouse has a QC problem or there is a problem with the shipping from either Vietnam or China. 
Later!


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## OrlyP

That's more or less may be caused by loose connections or dirty switch contacts. The teardown somehow reseated the connectors and/or cleaned up the switch contacts enough for it to work again.

I would try this.... With the ignition switch turned ON, slowly turn the fuel selection knob back and forth between gas and propane. You should hear a solid "click" from the solenoid when switching in and out of gasoline. The solenoid shouldn't sound like it's bouncing around between on and off and making a "clickity-click" sound.

Looking forward, I'd dab on some dielectric grease on the contacts to protect them from the elements.


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## Florida Boy

I did check the fuel solenoid after I cleaned the crud off it and added a drop of electrical cleaner and it sounded ok after it dried out a bit. I am a big fan of dielectric grease, too. I should have used it, but I did not even think of it unfortunately. If I ever have to tear this down again, I will do so. Hopefully, I will not have the need to tear it down. Honestly, I would be happy if I never had to roll it out again. 
One thing I did modify on the generator was to add locking swivel caster instead of the feet that came with it. That makes it easier for an old man to move around. Another thing I am also giving strong consideration to buying a ready made enclosure manufactured by a company called ZombieBox. It is pricey, but it will allow easier setup and related startup should we have another storm next year.


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## OrlyP

Florida Boy said:


> Hopefully, I will not have the need to tear it down. Honestly, I would be happy if I never had to roll it out again.


But where's the fun in that? lol



> One thing I did modify on the generator was to add locking swivel caster instead of the feet that came with it. That makes it easier for an old man to move around.


Same here. Mine came with the standard wheel kit and so I decided to remove it and the rubber feet in favor of four locking 3" swivels. It's now easier to move and point the generator in any direction with one hand.



> Another thing I am also giving strong consideration to buying a ready made enclosure manufactured by a company called ZombieBox. It is pricey, but it will allow easier setup and related startup should we have another storm next year.


Pricey, they are. But they do seem to excel in cutting down generator noise. They also might stand better during hurricanes and whatnot, compared to the more common plastic sheds. Personally, I'd just build one out of bricks or reinforced concrete.... better bang for the buck and will probably outperform even the ZombieBox. Though they are permanent.


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## Florida Boy

Well, I might like to do several thing differently, but I currently have to at least try to conform to certain HOA guidelines. One would imagine I would be smart enough to not get entangled in one of those things. However, I have learned over the last 70+ years keeping my wife happy has its upsides.


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## tabora

Florida Boy said:


> Another thing I am also giving strong consideration to buying a ready made enclosure manufactured by a company called ZombieBox. It is pricey, but it will allow easier setup and related startup should we have another storm next year.


I built this one myself in an afternoon. Much less pricey:

SunCast BMS2500 shed $166.99
16" 1,200CFM iLiving ILG8SF16V Exhaust Fan on the right side. $90.19
17" 5NKN4 Dayton gravity operated inlet shutter on the left side. $54.62
8 Gauge pigtail on upper left side going to Hubbell HBL2710AR L14-30R receptacle. $28.87
Total = $340.67


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## Florida Boy

I like the idea and the cost saving, but I had one of these just for tool storage at my previous home. Unfortunately, the Florida sun caused a severe warp to the lid and I would be worried about the same issue especially with the generator running inside.


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## tabora

Florida Boy said:


> Unfortunately, the Florida sun caused a severe warp to the lid and I would be worried about the same issue especially with the generator running inside.


I'm in Maine and that has not been an issue, especially where I located it, since it's in the shade most of the time. There are steel reinforcing beams that run across the lid, too. I have a thermal monitor in it that sets off an alarm at 80F, but it's never reached that temperature with the generator running. There's a lot of airflow - 1,200 CFM.


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## Florida Boy

I am about 20 miles east of Tampa and we get actual temps up to 105 on rare days. Our old home had the storage enclosure in the rear on the west side. I tried adding extra bolts with fender washers, but that didn't help all that much. I also had problems with the door hinges on the front. 
Our new placement would also be in the rear, but on the northern side. I am not sure if it would make that much difference. Also, I am subject to an HOA which has their own ideas as to what can and can not be done. Security here might also be an issue.


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## tabora

Florida Boy said:


> Security here might also be an issue.


Mine is bolted to the PT frame and there's a Master Disc lock on the lid & doors.


Florida Boy said:


> on the northern side.


That would certainly keep it cooler.


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## BetterNateThenNever

This worked for me as well. Just removed the 2 Phillips head bolts and removed the fuel shutoff solenoid on the bottom on the carb. Only the removable sides cover was needed to be removed. Fuel will pour out. For a quick fix, just gently push the pointed tip against something and you'll hear it click and go in a little. That's it. Put back in and start.


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## ndjose

Hello All. Happy New Year. 
My 7500DF generator also will not start or operate on gas. After reading this thread, I verified that the solenoid worked by removing it, and applying 12V from my car battery to it and it actuated just fine. I also check the voltage on the orange wire and there is no voltage present with the fuel selector to Gas. I measured the voltage on the battery and its completed dead. When I connect my car battery to it via jumper cables there is still no voltage on the orange wire. When I try to use AutoStart, the auto choke actuates back and forth, but it really does not attempt to start the generator, almost seems like the starter is also dead. Any advice would be welcomed. Looking to see where else I might need to look. The generator is 2 years old. I have run it a few times before without issues. Around Christmas time I decided to turn it on to test it and it wouldn’t start unless I used propane. I tried starting it with propane and then switching to gas, but it would just die.

Thanks!


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## GenKnot

ndjose said:


> When I connect my car battery to it via jumper cables there is still no voltage on the orange wire.


Check the microswitch with an ohmmeter (or continuity check) on the fuel selector switch that operates the fuel cut solenoid with the orange wire. It may be defective.


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## ndjose

I have continuity on the orange wire coming out of the switch assembly and the orange wire that connects to the selonoid regardless if its on gas or propane. The red wire on the other hand has continuity to that same selnoid orange wire only when gas is selected.


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## ndjose




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## ndjose

Can anyone tell me where the control box that holds the 10A fuse is located? Thanks


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## OrlyP

ndjose said:


> Can anyone tell me where the control box that holds the 10A fuse is located? Thanks


@animal will be able to shed some light on that. He recently started a thread and his troubleshooting required him to check the 10A fuse (which turned out to be not the problem). Still, he would know where it is.









Another Westinghouse 9500DFC No starting


Brand new unit Picked it up @ 2 weeks ago . Used it once & then waited for the Hi altitide kit to get here . Ordered before Christmas , didn't ship till the 29 th . Installed nre propane jet & went to start , NO GO . Nothing , no light no nothing . I have voltage from hot on battery to ground ...




www.powerequipmentforum.com


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## ndjose

Thanks, I was actually able to find it and it was blown so hopefully this solves my issue.


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