# Kohler Model 20RCA/20RCAL Transfer Switch



## carolinarider (Feb 24, 2020)

New member with a question.

I am in the process of having a Kohler Model 20RCA/20RCAL installed for backup power. 

The installation will include a RXT Transfer switch. When the installer was describing the installation, he told me that he would have to take power out of the bottom of the meter box (incoming power from utility) and route it to the transfer switch which would be mounted above and to the right of the meter box. 

I looked at the transfer switch and the box and it appears that it would be ore appropriate to mount the transfer switch above the meter box and in-between where the power leaves the meter box and enters the house. 

Just wanted to know if anyone has an opinion as to why the installer would not want to mount the transfer switch sort of "in-line" with the incoming power line. Seems a simpler and cleaner installation.


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## ToolLover (Jan 13, 2020)

@carolinarider: In your restricted space, I would arrange for the utility to drop the service and raise the meter box.
Then install the TS under it or....
If you have not already bought the generator, I suggest you only buy a 16 KW unit.
16 KW has and output of 65 amps.
That being said, you can then mount the TS next next to your original breaker box. (It would help if it is surface mounted.)
Once it is mounted you can add a 100 amp sub panel.
Breaker it at 60 amps and move the wires that you want the generator to power to the new sub panel.
Keeping in mind you have to route a 1-1/2" pipe from the generator to the TS.
Also to that is the need to add a 1/2" pipe or flex for control wiring.
You cannot add control and utility wires into the same pipe.
The 1 1/2" needs a 60 amp outside breaker properly wired.
So, it gets busy to install a unit this way, but easier in the long run as you do not have to interrupt the utility.
I have that set up in my home and it is inspected and approved.
There are some things that you will have to omit while the generator is running, like the dryer, the electric stove etc.
They stay in the original panel and are not moved to the sub panel.
My 16 KW does power the hot water heater. 
I hope I have not complicated your generator install, but what you want to do is doable.
Your post name indicates that you live in Carolina??? If so , you can come to Winston Salem and have a look at my install.
I am only a PM away.


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## carolinarider (Feb 24, 2020)

ToolLover, 

Thanks for the feedback. My daughter lives in Greensboro.

Size, its been settled at 20KW. 

Reason why the box cannot be in line with the meter box feed is (as I just found out) a code requirement that the breaker inside the transfer switch bust be no more than 6' 6" above the ground so you can stand on the ground and access it. 

Since there is a breaker at the generator and one inside the house and there is none on the meter line (unless you count the fact that you can pull the meter to kill the power), the code requirement, like others, makes no sense as a "stand alone" code. 

Regarding loads, I did look at a smaller size and did some calculations on the fuel used at "nominal" load and while there is a difference, I opted for the larger device, based on my own research and the installers recommendations and not having to install a sub panel.

Truth is that, when I built the house, I did provide a separate sub-panel for future use with a small portable generator. It would allow me to power the refrigerator, freezer, TV and some miscellaneous plug in lamps. But, since it would require my wife (in my absence) to do some things she might not be famialr, I opted for the simpler, albeit, more expensive approach.


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## ToolLover (Jan 13, 2020)

OK, so i missed the fact that you have an underground feed to the meter.
Then My question is, just how high is the meter from the ground as shown?


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## carolinarider (Feb 24, 2020)

The bottom of the meter is 52" above the ground.


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## ToolLover (Jan 13, 2020)

Could you not place a step platform below the meter area?


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## carolinarider (Feb 24, 2020)

Yes that thought crossed my mind. 

It would therefore depend on the inspector. It has been my experience that code/building inspectors seem to have a wide latitude on what to accept and not to accept. The only real issue with a platform would be that I would sort of want it to be "permanent" and not an obvious attempt to ......

Anyway it wold be right at the foundation and that is also where the conduits and pipes come up. And it would make the installers job easier. I have the necessary materials (well most of them). I am therefore still considering that possibility. 

But because that is where the main power line comes up it may not be possible.


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## ToolLover (Jan 13, 2020)

Well, go to him and ask him. It cannot hurt.


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

Why can’t the Transfer switch be located indoors next to your electrical panel?


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## ToolLover (Jan 13, 2020)

drmerdp said:


> Why can’t the Transfer switch be located indoors next to your electrical panel?


I suggested that, but leads to installing a 100 amp breaker and a sub panel.
The owner wants a 20 KW unit and he maybe does not have space.
I did just what you are requesting. 
Read the previous post I recommended.


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

ToolLover said:


> I suggested that, but leads to installing a 100 amp breaker and a sub panel.
> The owner wants a 20 KW unit and he maybe does not have space.
> I did just what you are requesting.
> Read the previous post I recommended.


Why is a sub panel is necessary? The transfer switch is an entrance rated service disconnect. It gets wired between the meter and load center anyway. The generator feeds his whole panel... as it would if it was located outside. 

There isn’t much room on the outside of the house, I’d avoid putting it there if possible.


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## ToolLover (Jan 13, 2020)

Well, you can place it inside ahead of the main panel.
Most 150 amp TS's are configured like this.
The problem is, if and when the time arises that the TS needs to have the contactor changed or work done on it, you will have to pull the meter.
90+ amps is hard on the contacts when it switches and causes some arcing.
That is why I suggested you get a 16 KW unit and install a sub panel with 60 amp breaker.
Repairs are then easy as you only have to open the 60 amp breaker.
Of course you can always install a 200 amp breaker ahead of the TS inside. 
I would.
I bet the inspector will make you do that anyway to protect the house against failure of the TS.


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