# Looking at a Champion 2000/2500 dual fuel inverter



## zz28zz (Nov 24, 2021)

Already have a diesel whole-house genset and a gasoline genset as backup. We have propane for heat, water heater and stove top.. Looking for a dual fuel gen to just run 2 refrigerators and a aerobic septic air pump for nights when a/c or heat is not needed. Also like the idea of having a small gen for camping, tailgating, etc.
Looked at Honda and Yamaha 2200w units and they look nice but for what I need, the Champion is looking pretty good. I've read tons of reviews and the only issue I'm seeing is that they can be hard to start on propane. Haven't heard of any issues with build quality and waveform looks great at 1000w. Light weight, long runtime and pretty quiet. Anyone running one of these? Any issues with them?


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## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

zz28zz said:


> ...the only issue I'm seeing is that they can be hard to start on propane.


It is fairly typical that propane and natural gas can produce some starting issues at times. They just don't ignite as well as gasoline. You have to figure out what procedure works best for starting the gen.

I run NG on my 3KW Champion and have figured out that when the engine is cold, I have to give it half choke. When it is warm, no choke. I do keep a can of starter fluid on hand just in case though.

Using an NGK Iridium plug gapped at .022 will help ignite the propane better than the .030 gapped standard plug. The smaller gap will slightly advance the timing which the gen also likes on propane.


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## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

To me, it's quite apparent that propane/NG generators that has a purge/prime button tends to start more easily. Without this button, you will have to rely on the engine vacuum to open up the demand regulator and pull fuel.

And because the regulated fuel supply is typically at low pressures, around less than half a psi, it can take a while for it to reach the combustion chamber. This is exacerbated when you have a long fuel line between the tank and generator. But barring any other issues, it will start... just less likely on the first pull.


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## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

Yup. I use the prime button for about 1 second and half choke when the engine is cold (this is after I purge the line of air). Seems to work best on mine that way. But every gen set up will be a little different.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

zz28zz said:


> Already have a diesel whole-house genset and a gasoline genset as backup. We have propane for heat, water heater and stove top.. Looking for a dual fuel gen to just run 2 refrigerators and a aerobic septic air pump for nights when a/c or heat is not needed. Also like the idea of having a small gen for camping, tailgating, etc.
> Looked at Honda and Yamaha 2200w units and they look nice but for what I need, the Champion is looking pretty good. I've read tons of reviews and the only issue I'm seeing is that they can be hard to start on propane. Haven't heard of any issues with build quality and waveform looks great at 1000w. Light weight, long runtime and pretty quiet. Anyone running one of these? Any issues with them?


we use the honda eu2200i gens here with the trifuel kit.
they work great for us on LP and NG!
pm if you need links!


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## zz28zz (Nov 24, 2021)

The Champion arrived today. Pulled spark plug (Torch Brand) and poured abt 1/2 teaspoon of 2-stroke pre-mix into plug hole and pulled cord a few times to lubed the cyl wall. Installed the tach/hr-meter. Still waiting on the magnetic dipstick before starting it up for break-in. 

Looking at the propane regulator, I don't see a prime button. Is there a way to install one? Can a replacement rear cover with a prime button be installed?


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## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

Which champion did you end up going with? I'm going to be replacing my existing 3KW with a lower THD unit because of my new furnace. Recommended by my HVAC installer!


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## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

No prime button on that model. Instructions say to initially set the fuel selector to choke and pull the cord a few times to prime it. After that, set the fuel selector back to propane and then pull the cord to start it.


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## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

Oops, I just noticed your model is in the subject. Give us an update when you are able to test it out!


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## zz28zz (Nov 24, 2021)

Saw a few youtube videos of people wearing themselves out attempting to get it primed. Trying to avoid that. Would like to have it start with a pull or two on propane. 

There's a boss where the prime button would be but it's not drilled all the way thru. Thinking about removing the rear cover, drilling out the hole (oversized) and installed a machine screw from the inside outwards. Then have a spring and a locknut on the outside. If all went well, I would push (for just a sec or two) the end of the screw to displace the diaphragm and flow gas into the gen. The spring would help ensure the screw retracts when released. Would need a long grip length so it wouldn't get hung-up on the threads. Basically be making a prime button similar to the regulators that come with one. Anyone tried this before?

I'll be sure to report back on performance after break-in.


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## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

The mod sounds like a plan. So long as you don't mess with the vacuum and stuff.

But before you break out the drill bits, have you tried spraying a bit of starting fluid to help prime it?


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## zz28zz (Nov 24, 2021)

Should be OK since the vacuum is on the other side of diaphragm. Main concern is that the priming mod doesn't interfere with diaphragm operation.

Haven't attempted to start it yet. Still waiting on the magnetic dipstick to show up. There's no quick access to air filter. Tools would be needed to prime with starting fluid/gas Would like to have set-up so the wife/kid could start it on propane with little difficulty.


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## Bluwolf (Nov 8, 2020)

I've got a Champion 2000w dual fuel. It was a bit difficult to start. Don't know where I read it, and don't pretend to understand it. But I read something about cracking open the propane valve very slowly. Then I just let it sit for a minute or two. That procedure has made it a good bit easier to start.

I have not yet bought an iridium plug for it yet. In my initial search there was not an iridium equivalent for my stock plug. Asking about it here, it was suggested that I could use an iridium plug that was a heat range cooler because they make one that would fit. But I have not done it yet.


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## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

Bluwolf said:


> I have not yet bought an iridium plug for it yet. In my initial search there was not an iridium equivalent for my stock plug.


I think the NGK BPR7HIX 5944 should be the correct Iridium plug. Your unit uses the NGK BPR7HS doesn't it?

NGK_Upgrades.pdf (ngkpartfinder.co.uk)


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## Bluwolf (Nov 8, 2020)

GenKnot said:


> I think the NGK BPR7HIX 5944 should be the correct Iridium plug. Your unit uses the NGK BPR7HS doesn't it?
> 
> NGK_Upgrades.pdf (ngkpartfinder.co.uk)


Thank you for that. But the manual says it takes an NGK BPR5HS. But there is no iridium match for that. It was suggested I go a heat range cooler. So that would take it to a BPR6HS, which would cross to a BPR6HIX.

This is my generator model 200960, and my manual. It's on page 30. 

https://www.championpowerequipment.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/200960-om-english.pdf

Funny thing is, I looked at the NGK cross reference you linked to, and I can't even find my stock plug on that chart. I'm sure I saw it before, and saw there was no iridium cross. Then I looked at the Torch number and it's E6RTC. So I thought maybe if I cross reference that. That gave me an NGK BPR6HS. 

E6RTC-E6RTC-E6RTC - 1247-CHINESE BRANDS - 1231-NGK - Spark plug cross reference

I wonder if the NGK number in my manual is a misprint. If so, then I'm good with the BPR6HIX. Is the 6 in the Torch number also the heat range? Is the number spark plug heat range standard?


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## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

Ah, okay. Since your manual calls for the BPR5HS, then a BPR6HIX should work fine with propane. One step colder! Gap towards the .024 side of the range if primarily running off propane.

The Champion 2000W dual-fuel 100402 model calls for a BPR7HS, but I guess yours is a little different.
100402-om-english.pdf (championpowerequipment.com)

The 6 in the Torch number is the heat range, but heat ranges don't necessarily cross over between brands. So no, the heat range numbers are not standardized.


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

Bluwolf said:


> I wonder if the NGK number in my manual is a misprint. If so, then I'm good with the BPR6HIX. Is the 6 in the Torch number also the heat range? Is the number spark plug heat range standard?


The heat range number is not consistent among different brands. 5 can be hotter then 6 in some brands and colder in others. It’s worth a shot going the step colder with a tight gap.


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## zz28zz (Nov 24, 2021)

Saw online the references to opening the propane valve slowly a couple of times. One reader thought if the valve was opened too fast the regulator assy would interpret the sudden rapid flow as a leak and shut down the regulator. There was reportedly a click sound associated with the "shutdown" of propane. I haven't seen anything to support that theory yet.

With a brand new unit or after removing the propane hose and re-installing, the line would need to be purged of air (or primed). If the regulator assy bypassed a tiny amount, it would make sense that opening the valve and waiting a few mins before attempting starting would help. This is what prompted me to explore a way to prime the system via regulator mod.

I was looking at NGK Iridium replacement plugs too.

The Champion website owners manuals for a 2000 watt and 2500 watt dual fuel gens says the orig plug is a Torch E6RTC and the replacement is a BPR5HS or equiv.



https://www.championpowerequipment.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/200960-om-english.pdf





https://www.championpowerequipment.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/200961-om-english.pdf




The cross reference I used said the Torch E6RTC crosses to a NGK BPR6HS.
spark plug cross reference

I went with a NGK BPR6HIX. Should be here tomorrow.


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## Bluwolf (Nov 8, 2020)

zz28zz said:


> Saw online the references to opening the propane valve slowly a couple of times. One reader thought if the valve was opened too fast the regulator assy would interpret the sudden rapid flow as a leak and shut down the regulator. There was reportedly a click sound associated with the "shutdown" of propane. I haven't seen anything to support that theory yet.
> 
> With a brand new unit or after removing the propane hose and re-installing, the line would need to be purged of air (or primed). If the regulator assy bypassed a tiny amount, it would make sense that opening the valve and waiting a few mins before attempting starting would help. This is what prompted me to explore a way to prime the system via regulator mod.
> 
> ...


That was my thinking too. You'll have your plug before me. I hope you'll let me (us) know if that helps. I'll be trying to get one soon.


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## zz28zz (Nov 24, 2021)

Got my magnetic dipstick today and started the break-in procedure.

Initial start-up on propane was unsuccessful. Followed the following sequence:
Open propane tank valve very slowly.
Waited abt 5 mins.
Set to Choke and pulled rope six times but no sign of life.
Switched to Run (propane), a few more pulls, nothing.

Went thru choke/run sequence 3 more times, but nothing. Probably abt 30 rope pulls all together.

Disconnected hose from gen and smelled it. No propane smell at all.
Disconnected regulator from propane tank. Expected a pressure release sound but didn't hear (or smell) anything.

Re-installed the regulator and this time tightened it a bit more. This time I heard a "click" sound when propane tank valve was opened. Assuming regulator wasn't tight enough to depress the quick disconnect valve inside the propane tank valve. Set to Choke again and got a sign of life on the 3rd pull. Switched to Run (propane) and it started on first pull.

I used two 500 watt work lights for the load. Alternated between no load, 500W load and a 1000W load. Also switched between Eco mode and regular mode numerous times. After the first 30 mins, unloaded for a few mins to cool and shutdown to check oil. Magnetic dipstick had only a tiny amount of black metallic powder and oil level was unchanged.

Started it back up and ran another 60 mins under various loads but never over 1000 watts. Pulled dipstick and it still looks great. I was expecting a bit more shavings from a new eng but very happy with what I'm seeing so far.

Tachometer I installed was set for single-cyl 4-stroke but was reading what I believe to be twice as high as it should. (9600 rpm with Eco mode off). Switched to single-cyl 2-stroke setting assuming the ign fires on exh stroke also. Seems to be working correctly now. With no load and Eco mode on, eng speed was 3800 RPM. With Eco mode off (and no load) seeing 4800 RPM.

Other observations:
In Eco mode, with 500W load applied, eng speed remained at 3800 RPM. When an additional 500W load was applied, eng speed increased a little to 3940 RPM.
Voltage with no load was 122V. At a 500W load, measured 121.5V, and with a 1000W load voltage dropped to 121V.
If the trend continues, should be at 120V at full load.
Exhaust temp with 500W load wasn't bad at all. I could hold my hand over the exhaust at that power level.
Inverter/eng cooling air is drawn in from front end and discharged out the exhaust end. This blends the exhaust gas with the cooling air making overall discharge temps stay pretty low. Not much chance of catching anything on fire at least at 1/4 load.
Original Torch plug was found gap'ed to .022" and seems to be working fine. Got my NGK platinum as a back-up.

My idea of modifying the propane regulator to provide a Prime button isn't looking very good. After the plastic cover is installed on the regulator, there's no access to where the prime button would be. Drilling a hole in the plastic isn't feasible since the Prime button would be directly under the pivot for the large clip. The plastic cover incorporates a large clip to attach regulator to carry handle (for stowage) and has a place to hold the hose and keep it off the ground. It can be removed but it's pretty handy so I'll probably leave it on.

Feeling pretty good about things over-all.
I'll try to get back on it tomorrow and get some scope pics of the sine wave if time permits.


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## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

That's great! You may be on to something. See if you can find a pattern that will make starting much less of a struggle.


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## Bluwolf (Nov 8, 2020)

I'll have to listen for that click the next time I run it. Because I haven't found a reason why it starts right up sometimes and not others. Are you planning on putting in the iridium plug soon, to see if that helps the starting also?

BTW where did you get your magnetic dipstick?


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## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

zz28zz said:


> Disconnected hose from gen and smelled it. No propane smell at all.
> Disconnected regulator from propane tank. Expected a pressure release sound but didn't hear (or smell) anything.


I wonder if that has anything to do with the OPD valve (assuming yours is equipped)?





Understanding Propane Bottle Valves - Troubleshooting LP Gas Cylinder Connections


Certain propane cylinder valves will only allow gas to flow if the connection is properly made. Learn about propane cylinder valve connections and operation.



www.propane101.com





Interesting that your OEM Torch plug was at .022 gap. That actually works but isn't per manual specs. I would use the same .022 gap for the NGK Iridium also.
Sounds like you are making good progress! Scope pics would be nice if you can get them.


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

Iridium plug should definitely improve starting.


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## zz28zz (Nov 24, 2021)

GenKnot said:


> I wonder if that has anything to do with the OPD valve (assuming yours is equipped)?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yep, your link appears to be what's going on. Plunger inside OPD valve isn't getting depressed unless hand-tightened regulator attachment knob is really tight. May be an O-ring or seal that needs to compress?? May be related to cold weather?? Need to play around with it some more. Weather isn't cooperating today.

The plug gap works OK so far. Want to establish a baseline with the Torch plug to evaluate how much improvement there is with the NGK. Also need to experiment some more with regulator attachment fitting before changing any variables.


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## zz28zz (Nov 24, 2021)

Bluwolf said:


> I'll have to listen for that click the next time I run it. Because I haven't found a reason why it starts right up sometimes and not others.
> 
> BTW where did you get your magnetic dipstick?



Thinking back, I'm not 100% sure when click sound occurred. May have been when tightening hand fitting or when valve was opened, but definitely remember a click sound on second attempt. It's supposed to rain all day here, so probably won't get a chance to play around with it until tomorrow.

Got magnetic dipstick here: It's a bit pricey but built like a tank.








Amazon.com : GenExhaust Compatible with Champion 2000/2500 Watt Inverter Generator - Easy USE Magnetic Oil Dipstick : Patio, Lawn & Garden


Amazon.com : GenExhaust Compatible with Champion 2000/2500 Watt Inverter Generator - Easy USE Magnetic Oil Dipstick : Patio, Lawn & Garden



www.amazon.com


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## Bluwolf (Nov 8, 2020)

zz28zz said:


> Thinking back, I'm not 100% sure when click sound occurred. May have been when tightening hand fitting or when valve was opened, but definitely remember a click sound on second attempt. It's supposed to rain all day here, so probably won't get a chance to play around with it until tomorrow.
> 
> Got magnetic dipstick here: It's a bit pricey but built like a tank.
> 
> ...


Thank you, much appreciated.


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## zz28zz (Nov 24, 2021)

Here's the dipstick after initial 30 mins of break-in. Not much metal at all, but that's a good thing. Pulled it again after 1.5 hrs and it looked the same. If I wipe it with a white paper towel, then shine a bright light on the towel, I can see a few very very small sparkles.

Something that seems odd to me is the RPM's were higher than I had anticipated for an inverter genset. RPM's never drop below 3800 in Eco mode. Found on the dataplate where it says RPM= 4800. Since that's exactly what I read with Eco mode off, I'm pretty sure i have the tach set up correctly now. That fact that it only burns 0.1 gal/hr while producing ~450+ watts and spinning at 3800 RPM just amazes me.









Curious if anyone knows what RPM range the Honda's and Yammy's use on their comparably sized inverters.


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

The Yamaha is a better comparison as it’s also a 80cc engine. The Honda eu2000 was 100cc and the eu2200 is 120cc The little 80cc engines rev higher to have enough power to make their power rating. Take the power rating with a grain of salt. The numbers are inflated a bit.

My eu2200 revs out to 4500 under max surge conditions and is at 3200rpms with no load, eco on. My eu1000 has a 50cc engine and maxes out at 5000rpm no load eco on is 4300.


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## zz28zz (Nov 24, 2021)

Thx for that. Seems I'm in-line with other small inverters.


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## zz28zz (Nov 24, 2021)

Finished-up the break-in today and changed the oil. Magnetic dipstick looked great. Oil turned to a light shade of gray. I had left the propane regulator attached to propane tank and disconnected at front panel of inverter last time I used it. Did not disturb connection of regulator to tank. Re-connected hose to inverter and set to Choke. Did 6 rope pulls, didn't sound like it wanted to fire. Switch to Run (propane) and it started on first pull. Still got some experimentation to do.

Captured some scope traces with no load, a 4 amp load and a 8 amp load. Load was either one or two 500-watt work lights.

















^^^^ Above is zero load ^^^^



















^^^^ Above is with 4 amp load ^^^^




















^^^^ Above is with 8 amp load^^^^

For grins I captured some scope traces with my old Yamaha YG6600DE open frame (1999 model). Not beautiful, but good enough for a back-up genset. See below:











^^^^ Above is with zero load ^^^^











^^^^ Above is with 8 amp load ^^^^


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## zz28zz (Nov 24, 2021)

Here's the original spark plug (Torch) after 5 hr break-in (on propane only). Looks almost new.


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## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

Nice.

I am inclined to think that people having trouble starting this generator from propane is doing something wrong, something which I can't put my finger on. But you seem to be handling it quite well. Assuming that your propane plumbing is all sorted out and everything is tight, try reducing the priming pulls from 6 to 3 and see if you can still start it on the first pull.

Very nice waveforms! To be fair, the output from the Yamaha is pretty decent as well.

Propane is such a clean-burning gas that it shouldn't foul up the plug like gasoline often does. That said, it's a good indication if the engine starts to burn oil.


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

zz28zz said:


> Finished-up the break-in today and changed the oil. Magnetic dipstick looked great. Oil turned a shade of light shade of gray. I had left the propane regulator attached to propane tank and disconnected at front panel of inverter last time I used it. Did not disturb connection of regulator to tank. Re-connected hose to inverter and set to Choke. Did 6 rope pulls, didn't sound like it wanted to fire. Switch to Run (propane) and it started on first pull. Still got some experimentation to do.
> 
> Captured some scope traces with no load, a 4 amp load and a 8 amp load. Load was either one or two 500-watt work lights.
> 
> ...


Great scope readings with load numbers.

It would be a nice addition to the waveform thread.


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## Bluwolf (Nov 8, 2020)

It's making me feel all warm and fuzzy about my little Champion inverter.


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## DaHen (Jan 7, 2022)

Picked up my Champion 2000W dual fuel inverter generator last week from Tractor Supply. First thing I did was to replace the Torch spark plug with an NGK. Auto Zone matched it up with BPR6HS. Also installed a magnet oil dipstick from Amazon. After a short run of two hours, changed the oil. The dipstick picked up allot of metal particles and the oil looked soupy, that light shade of gray. The oil looked better after running another three hours. And, once again, changed the oil without any particles on the dipstick.

Have only run the generator on propane so far and did take some time and a few magic words for it to start. Only used a light bulb for a small load. 'Tis quieter than some generators of its size. Gonna pick up an NGK Iridium plug and keep it on hand.

Thanks, zz28zz, for the scope traces.


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## zz28zz (Nov 24, 2021)

Nice day today (70 degs) so I did some more propane start-up troubleshooting. Found that the propane tank connection indeed does have to be tighter than I imagined it should be. With a good connection at propane tank, 3 healthy pulls on Choke then switch to run, starts almost every time on first pull. 

The click sound mentioned prev is not consistent. I could initially hear the click when tank valve was opened, but later sound went away. If you have a really quiet environment, you can attach regulator to tank but not tight, open tank valve all the way (should not flow from tank yet), slowly tighten the attachment fitting. After it's seems snug, keep tightening until you hear a very faint "pssst" sound. This indicates the plunger has opened in the tank valve. Now 3 pulls on choke, switch to run and give it a good pull. Mine starts every time on first or second pull. 

After eng is warm, if shut down by closing the propane tank valve, you will need to go thru a few Choke pulls to re-prime system even if eng is already warm. If shutdown via the rotary knob, it can be restarted by going directly to Run. If it sits too long, it will need the Choke pulls again.

Also did a 20 min run at 1500W (max continuous= 1640W on propane ). Voltage remained above 119V and was very stable. Eng speed reached 4430RPM (in Eco mode). Think it's a keeper.


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## zz28zz (Nov 24, 2021)

DaHen said:


> Picked up my Champion 2000W dual fuel inverter generator last week from Tractor Supply. First thing I did was to replace the Torch spark plug with an NGK. Auto Zone matched it up with BPR6HS. Also installed a magnet oil dipstick from Amazon. After a short run of two hours, changed the oil. The dipstick picked up allot of metal particles and the oil looked soupy, that light shade of gray. The oil looked better after running another three hours. And, once again, changed the oil without any particles on the dipstick.
> 
> Have only run the generator on propane so far and did take some time and a few magic words for it to start. Only used a light bulb for a small load. 'Tis quieter than some generators of its size. Gonna pick up an NGK Iridium plug and keep it on hand.
> 
> Thanks, zz28zz, for the scope traces.


My experience, with mainly car engs, is that you want to build up cyl press as soon as eng is up to temp. Cyl press is needed to seat the rings. Idling too long or running with too small of a load during break-in can glaze the cyl walls and rings won't seat. Champion recommends varying load (up to 1/2 power) and keep RPMs from staying at one speed for too long during break-in. Loading with between 4 and 8 amps should increase RPMs a little. Switching in and out of Eco mode will really make RPMs change.


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## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

zz28zz said:


> My experience, with mainly car engs, is that you want to build up cyl press as soon as eng is up to temp. Cyl press is needed to seat the rings. Idling too long or running with too small of a load during break-in can glaze the cyl walls and rings won't seat. Champion recommends varying load (up to 1/2 power) and keep RPMs from staying at one speed for too long during break-in. Loading with between 4 and 8 amps should increase RPMs a little. Switching in and out of Eco mode will really make RPMs change.


This is true. You'll want the RPM and load all over the place as much as possible, but within limits.

This is something conventional single-speed generators can't achieve. The most you can do in this case is to vary the load.


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## zz28zz (Nov 24, 2021)

The Champion manual also mentioned that varying the load also thermal cycles the stator windings. Not sure why that's needed. Maybe one of the generator gurus knows why that's beneficial?


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

zz28zz said:


> The Champion manual also mentioned that varying the load also thermal cycles the stator windings. Not sure why that's needed. Maybe one of the generator gurus knows why that's beneficial?


it has to do with the heat sealing the windings in place on the coil forms...
most of the gens are not test ran, so the coatings are not hard yet.
so a bit of warm to start baking the windings gradual is a good thing.


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## DaHen (Jan 7, 2022)

Gots a small Holmes electric heater that I'll dig out and run the new generator with it. Then adjust the heaters settings from time to time.


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## Columbotrek (11 mo ago)

OrlyP said:


> To me, it's quite apparent that propane/NG generators that has a purge/prime button tends to start more easily. Without this button, you will have to rely on the engine vacuum to open up the demand regulator and pull fuel.
> 
> And because the regulated fuel supply is typically at low pressures, around less than half a psi, it can take a while for it to reach the combustion chamber. This is exacerbated when you have a long fuel line between the tank and generator. But barring any other issues, it will start... just less likely on the first pull.


Since the factory gas regulator on my generator has no purge button, I tried successfully to approximate the effect by loosening the gas line connection at the regulator just enough to allow a decent leak. Once I get a whiff gas, I tighten the fitting. Starts right up after that.


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## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

Columbotrek said:


> Since the factory gas regulator on my generator has no purge button, I tried successfully to approximate the effect by loosening the gas line connection at the regulator just enough to allow a decent leak. Once I get a whiff gas, I tighten the fitting. Starts right up after that.


You could install a T or Y valve just before the demand regulator as a makeshift purge valve. One valve goes to the demand regulator while the other is the purge valve.

I would even go as far as connecting the purge valve to the breather hose using a brass T-fitting, instead of venting raw fuel into the atmosphere. This way, the purged gasses can likely help with starting as if giving the carb some starting fluid. Either way, it'll get burned off as soon as the engine starts.

I realize that I'm overthinking it a little. But that's what this community thrives for so I'm probably safe. lol


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