# Trifuel Eu7000is and Generator Shed 2.0 Build Thread



## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

So, after many years of faithful service my Champion 7000/9000 complete with custom assembled enclosure has a new home and i'm moving on to greener pastures. 

I'll start with a quick overview of the old setup. In 2012 hurricane sandy hit New Jersey and I lost power for 5 days. I was able order a small generator last minute which got delivered hours before we lost power. Well, I was bit by the bug. 
I researched like a mad man for months. I bought books on electrical and plumbing. Watched countless youtube videos, and consulted with customers and friends who are licensed professionals in the stated trades. I knew I wanted to run on natural gas since finding gasoline was a nightmare during Sandy. I learned that a gasoline engine running natural gas needed to be derated on power so I went big and got a 7000watt rated generator. For an enclosure I start with an inexpensive suncast plastic shed. I lined it with mass loaded vinyl sheets for sound deadening and 1/4 foil faced foam insulation to create a temperature neutral space. Next was intake and exhaust fans in a push pull configuration and an insulated exhaust system complete a large muffler. The generator got a snorkel trifuel kit from UScarb. This was my first foray into this depth of electrical and plumbing work and what I learned has been invaluable. 

Here it is showing some age. The setup is now at my brother in laws house. 










Now the good part. I bought an Eu7000is. I'm still getting over the price tag, but cannot be more impressed. I have have big plans for this thing. I've been looking into a large 240v inverter gen for some time and there are some nice options out there. Northern Tool has a good looking Honda clone-ish looking 240v inverter gen rated for 6500w running for $2700 bucks. I almost pulled the trigger on this one until I decided to give UScarb a call to see if they have anything in the works for the Fuel Injected Eu7000. I was pleasantly surprised to hear that they do and it'll be out soon! Game On! 

After looking up the internal dimensions of the quick easy plastic sheds available only one would fit the bill. The Suncast BMS4700. The darn thing is huge for a "small shed" lol. Its deep enough for the very long Eu7000 to face outward with the control panel facing the front doors. Sure it would fit in a smaller shed but The aesthetics of the control panel facing left or right instead of facing forward was not something I was comfortable with. The added benefit of the BMS4700 is its actually wide enough for 2 Eu7000's.  Parallel power... I'm a long way from that though.

The UScarb kit was expensive but looks good. @iowagold gave us a nice preview of it. As he mentioned it is not a simple bolt on kit. and to be honest it lacks a lot of fit and finish. But if you are mechanically inclined, have a bit of imagination and time... its really good. It has a plug and play interface box that uses an on-off-on (Alt fuel - off - Gasoline) toggle switch mounted externally to disable the fuel pump and injector while keeping the GCU and inverter in the loop during operation. The electronics in the box are potted in black epoxy. How elaborate the electronics in that box is anyones guess. But they claim it's a big deal. 

The KN zero gravity demand regulator is mounted on a included bracket, but the bracket kinda sucks and it wouldn't work with the enclosure I decided on. (adds too much depth to the machine) So I made my own mounting bracket to mount it in a better location. The feed hose from the load block to throttle body has to be really long to snake its way through the battery compartment to the "snorkel". Trifuel guys know this hose should be as short as possible. I was able to cut down the length to 23" (from 27"). Also the passage the hose has to pass through is super tight and full of sharp edges. I ended up increasing the size of the cavity larger with a round file and adding grommets to protect the hose. I used extra primer bulbs slipped over the hose, They are thin and extremely resilient to abrasion. The "box" gets tucked in behind the front panel but the switch gets mounted in a location of your own choosing. I chose to mount it in the battery access door. 

I JUST finished my gas piping and loaded the generator into the shed. I'll try to update the thread with some pics tomorrow. 

Next on my list is to install the intake shutter and exhaust fan which are on order. And work on heat shields. I'll do foil faced insulation after the fan.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

nice mount!! note the 45 deg off access so the diaphragm will not self pump during vibration!!
I would add a down pipe with cap on the up 90 deg...
water and trash catch before the demand regulator..
I would to have used brass fittings... they hold up better over time when sitting with no ng or lp on them..
make sure to use a rubber hose for vibration isolation..
are you going 3/4 id hose??
and what did you do on the exhaust weldment?? stick or mig on the welds?
stainless stick would work ok.. tricky weld for sure... thin to heavy is always tricky.

I made a hd plate flange for the exhaust to bolt up out of stainless for no rust..
I tig welded that.. all 16 of turned out nice..
I need to get the next batch laser cut.. I just used the plasma cutter with new tips..
and jig cut for almost perfect cut.
then stainless nipple to high temp silicone hose with air on the outside..
and has a vapor drain.

I did the exhaust as a stack up for no noise on the outside of the cinder block shed.
and removed the screen from the muffler. no need to service that screen every oil change.
if you are not doing a kidney oil system.
that is one of the over looked things on the eu gens!!


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

"nice mount!!" Thank you sir.

I installed a sediment trap right before the gas hose, figured that was enough. Might not be a bad idea to add another. I do plan to go to brass later on. I went with 3/4 black pipe feeding the enclosure and a 1/2 hose with quick disconnects. Every propane gas chart I reference shows that to be suitable. If I ever get a second Eu7000 I doubt id convert it to tri-fuel, but just incase, the 3/4 run should support two Eu7000s without a problem.

When I install a wireless remote start I'm going to add a normally closed solenoid valve right before the demand regulator and maybe a vacuum switch for added safety. I'll go brass at that point. UScarb has a reasonably priced kit. I don't technically need the vacuum switch since the generator has key on power, even with using the remote start. But it might be nice to use it as a fail safe to shut fuel flow to the demand regulator. The KN demand regulators are sprung closed when a vacuum isn't applied but id rather err on the side of caution.



Remote Start



I have a 6' rubber hose to the Gen, and a flex hose from the hose to the enclosure. I added a nylon overbraid to the gas hose as well. Fun Fact, WATTS makes a stainless steel flex hose that's outdoor rated. Its also a superseded generac part in place of the old rubber hose. I never like the idea of a rubber hose carrying gas right out in the open. I'm treating the enclose like a standby generator. Flex connection, min 5 feet from nearest window, min 18 inches from house...



https://www.watts.com/dfsmedia/0533dbba17714b1ab581ab07a4cbb521/45589-source/ES-D-GAC_Generator_Generac



The exhaust adapter is something I found on eBay. I could have made one but it was way easier to pay the $45 bucks for it in stainless. I'm not thrilled with 90degree bend, I'm thinking of doing a couple 45s to smooth it out but space is tight, I need to make sure their is adequate space between the front of the generator and the closed door. Im thinking a couple well placed baffles can optimize airflow if needed. Ill test all that once i get the fan and intake shutter installed. I don't plan to run the exhaust out of the shed. I just intend to aim it up toward the exhaust fan.

Im thinking of using the metal bracket under the exhaust pipe as a mount for a small heat shield. ( I repurposed the UScarb regulator mount, it was handy for something.)

What exactly is the kidney oil system you speak of? Sounds elaborate and expensive...lol.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

I guess I would to have shot the exhaust strait out the back to stainless double wall strait up in the air with a cap vent on top.
if you use the double wall all the way then the fan air pushes on the outside part for no freezing of condensate.
then have a t right outside the case with a duck bill water drain on the down part.

they make the rubber collar thru units that can pop rivet to the plastic for the stainless exhaust vent double wall.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

is 3/4 enough?? I ran the 1 inch... but then I am leaving room for more stuff connected.
it was right on the line on my charts so I went the larger on the pipe.
nice runs on every thing!!
hey gang note the even a rubber door stop on the demand reg!! wow!!
class install!!


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

I have a 1” trunk line that feeds my appliances. My Generator is on the first split.

4ft of 1” 
10ft of 3/4” 30ft total including elbows
(4) 90 degree elbows add 5ft to 3/4 run for each elbow. Add 20ft

Im on propane so my capacity according to the chart is 315,000btu.

The charts notes 11” water column. My cheap monometer reads a bit over 9”.
So down grade the number approx 18%. 260,000btu.

GX390 ~12hp 10,000btu per HP. 120,000btu.

Technically I have enough capacity for 2 EU7000s in parallel.

I thought about running the exhaust externally but it’s way more work and would create more noise outside the enclosure.

I like this chart.



http://snowcrest.net/thriftysupply/pdf/NAT-LP-PIPE-SIZE.pdf


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## Melson (Dec 8, 2019)

Nice. Well researched. Are you planning on sound attenuation? Though that probably isn't needed. How about an ac driven exhaust fan, plugged into the engine so it operates anytime the engine is running? 
Again, this looks great.


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

Melson said:


> Nice. Well researched. Are you planning on sound attenuation? Though that probably isn't needed. How about an ac driven exhaust fan, plugged into the engine so it operates anytime the engine is running?
> Again, this looks great.


Thanks man.

Honestly the generator is so quiet that sound attenuation isn't a high priority.

I will have a 24" motorized intake shutter and 20" exhaust fan. They happened to have arrived today, much earlier than I expected. I imagined what a 24" intake shutter would look like on the enclosure, but wow, its pretty darn big.

I'm a little torn on managing the heat from the back of the generator. The machine is essentially an airtight box with air flowing through the front of the unit past the inverter then through the engine housing past the exhaust system (has a catalytic converter in the muffler...additional heat.) then out a rectangular exhaust vent the width of the enclosure near the top of the unit.

Bottom line its hot and I need to insulate the back wall with a heat shield in the cooling systems exhaust airstream.

Here's what I'm looking at. Its cheap, so I might line the whole interior of the enclosure. It'll help keep the space as temperature neutral as possible, with the added benefit of some sound attenuation. The class 1 fire rating makes me feel better as well.









SmartSHIELD -3 Reflective Foam Core Insulation, RADIANT BARRIER 48" X 50ft roll | eBay


Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for SmartSHIELD -3 Reflective Foam Core Insulation, RADIANT BARRIER 48" X 50ft roll at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!



www.ebay.com





Otherwise i'd add a piece of galvanized sheet metal spaced from the wall, or a piece of ceramic insulation. Ceramic refractory board or a foil faced ceramic fiber blanket.

Using my thermal imager I got a 160f degree reading off the back wall running No load for 20 minutes with eco throttle off. The whole wall heat soaked considerably as well. The big fan and intake will keep the space cool, but the target spot in the airstream will get very hot. Especially loaded up on a hot day.

I guess I could always do both.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

motor drive for the fans?
that way the fan speed and noise can be reduced.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

question on the smart shield.. how much radiant heat will it stand? before delamination?
we use the pink with foil but not that close to the exhaust in the rear.. like in your setup..


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

1/10 hp motor and three speeds. 4,220/3,250/2,130CFM

Missed it before. Just went back and saw the tech spec. OPERATING TEMPERATURE -20°c / 80°c 176 degrees F

Looks like its insufficient.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

humm 3 temp sensors and relays for the three speeds might be an idea..
a bit of logic in there for safety..
one company had a speed control that worked off temp...
for green house... it ramped up or slowed down the fan speed to keep it in a window of temp..
nice for cold temps on gens... they do not like the intake air temp below 70 degf..
in the venturi the temp drops down to 40 deg...
hard for natural gas to fire right at that temp...

hey did you change the spark plug gap to 0.020 inches and the plug to iridium??
the iridium works better for the lp and ng setup.
The link for honda eu 7000is tune up parts are below;





honda eu7000is parts


honda eu7000is parts



www.poustusa.com


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

Thanks for the reminder on the spark plug, I meant to order an iridium replacement. I have an iridium on the old champion, and it cold started WAY better then copper on gaseous fuels. Propane is a bit more forgiving then Natural gas.

You brought this to my attention a while back.

Inkbird WiFi ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller Thermostat Remote Monitoring Controlling Home Brewing Fermentation Breeding Incubation Greenhouse Inkbird WiFi ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller Thermostat Remote Monitoring Controlling Home Brewing Fermentation Breeding Incubation Greenhouse: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

I think this is promising, I can set it to a specific temp and monitor through WiFi with an app. Not sure if it would retain settings during an outage. until I can restore power. Might be silly if I need to run through a UPS.

A simpler thermostat ran right off the generator and a different monitoring system would be more practical.


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## speedy2019 (Jan 29, 2019)

If I were to put my small 2800watt generator in a box, would it be cool enough just have a vent for the exhaust and maybe another for the back where it gets hot,, or do I need fans?


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## tabora (Sep 6, 2018)

speedy2019 said:


> If I were to put my small 2800watt generator in a box, would it be cool enough just have a vent for the exhaust and maybe another for the back where it gets hot,, or do I need fans?


If you put in an exhaust fan with the generator exhaust facing it and adequate inlet size for the air, the system will be self-cooling. I've done this twice now with a Powermate PM1500 (8 inch fan in a truck box) and a Powermate PM0126000 (16 inch fan in a Suncast BMS2500). My Onan KV 2800 has its own RV-ready enclosure with a built-in air pump on the intake side that performs a similar function.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

if you are running on lp or ng for fuel, low carbon on the exhaust..

I guess I always run an exhaust fan that is temp controlled..
but most of my units are in cold temps...
but we are in a real gen shack that is cinder block on those applications.
and have steel siding for rf shield and faraday cage as they are on transmitter sites..

the eu7000is sure do work better on the iridium plugs when on the alt fuels..
and the cool thing is when on ng or lp the plugs last a long time!!
they do not carbon up like on gasoline..
so the extra few bucks is not an issue..
here is the link for the eu7000is parts page with links





honda eu7000is parts


honda eu7000is parts



www.poustusa.com


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## speedy2019 (Jan 29, 2019)

tabora said:


> If you put in an exhaust fan with the generator exhaust facing it and adequate inlet size for the air, the system will be self-cooling. I've done this twice now with a Powermate PM1500 (8 inch fan in a truck box) and a Powermate PM0126000 (16 inch fan in a Suncast BMS2500). My Onan KV 2800 has its own RV-ready enclosure with a built-in air pump on the intake side that performs a similar function.


 Ah thanks, my idea originally was just having 2 air vents where the generator got hot, But yeah Im guessin it will cook and maybe set on fire without a fan sucking the hot air out


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

Standard alternator generators have the engines air intake at the front of the motor at the pull cord, and the alternators is at the Opposite end. They exhaust their hot air pretty much in the middle.
It’s not simple to make an enclosure that will enshroud and separate the flow of air as required. Where the muffler is pointing is another thing to consider. If it points at the exhaust fan then perfect, if not a refractory board is necessary.

An intake vent and exhaust fan is simpler.


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## tabora (Sep 6, 2018)

speedy2019 said:


> Ah thanks, my idea originally was just having 2 air vents where the generator got hot, But yeah Im guessin it will cook and maybe set on fire without a fan sucking the hot air out


I have a friend with the same Powermate PM0126000 and Suncast BMS2500 shed, purchased at the same time as mine. 
He elected to simply try running the generator in the shed (in bad weather) with the top down and both front doors open. The exhaust end of the generator was about 18" from the end of the shed; it burned quite a sizable hole in the end of the shed.


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## speedy2019 (Jan 29, 2019)

Ummm. I would want the box quite compact, so only a few inches all the way around, a bad idea then? I could put wire mesh at the exhaust side instead of a vent... Id have the exhaust fan in front of the exhaust but its aiming towards my house door.

I guess its probably easier to screw a heavy duty water proof cover to the wall ubove the generator and let it hang over the front weighing it down on the floor with bricks. Then the generator should be protected from the rain/snow off when its in use.. 

Its a real pain stuck in a wheelchair because I would do a proper box jobby.


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

Gen Tent? 






All Generator Accessories | GenTent Safety Canopies


We offer a variety of generator accessories for storage, adaptation, enhancement, and improvement to your GenTent or generator itself. View more.




www.gentent.com


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

yea the gen tents are a cool idea!!
as long as you can mount them as intended.

zombie box idea is cool..
most are going for less than 40db of noise..

yea when building any of the gen huts make sure where they exhaust is going..
think the silent killer co! or carbon monoxide..
it is always a good idea to have a real good C/O detector when running any gen set.
it is just smart money spent!!


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

Got a decent amount done today. Got the ventilation system mounted and sealed up. I still need to figure out how I want to wire things and route cabling but atleast the intake shutter and exhaust fan are mounted.

The exhaust fan can really use a blade guard. I'll have to get some course wire mesh and do the blade guard and can't hurt to add it to the intake shutter. Don't want to suck in a squirrel. Did I mention that fan pulls a ton of air.

The last thing needed to make the setup fully operational is a heat shield for the back wall. I'm going to mount the galvanized panning sheets i have with a 1/4 air gap and see how i like it.

I've been looking at thermal and acoustic insulation options. The one I really liked to begin with has been out of stock for months. Its a 3/8" FOIL FACED RECYCLED COTTON. The 24' is nowhere to be found and then next size is 75' ! With 75' I guess I can double it to 3/4. Foil faced double bubble or foam wouldn't provide worthwhile sound deadening.

Any Suggestions for thermal and acoustic insulation??































Plenty of room for a second EU7000.


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## speedy2019 (Jan 29, 2019)

Very tidy work


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

hummm you may need a hood over the air intake?
during operation when the air intake power vent is open if it is raining that large fan could suck in water and "s n o w" (sorry for the 4 letter swear word!!)  
then you could do a screen on the outside hood.

I use the foil faced pink foam stuff.
this stuff would be ok








Johns Manville Foil Faced Polyiso Foam Board Insulation 2" x 4' x 8' R-13


Johns Manville AP™ Foil-Faced Foam Sheathing Board is rigid polyisocyanurate foam sheathing that provides exceptional heat, moisture, and air control to protect your building's exterior walls, and when installed correctly, eliminates all major thermal bridges that cause heat loss. Continuous...




www.menards.com




or this in thicker








Johns Manville CI Max® Polyiso Foam Board Insulation 1.55" x 4' x 8' R-9.6
 

Johns Manville CI Max® Silver is rigid foam sheathing board made from closed-cell polyisocyanurate foam with a glass-mat-reinforced aluminum facer. It can be left exposed and provides an attractive and durable interior finish while also eliminating all major thermal bridges that cause heat loss.




www.menards.com




and the foil tape








Reflectix Foil Tape 2" x 30'


Reflectix® Foil Tape is a heavy-gauge aluminum foil, bonded to an acrylic adhesive with a release liner. The product is designed specifically for bonding seams in applications where our Reflectix® Double and Single Reflective Insulations are installed. The Foil Tape provides a continuous...




www.menards.com




the bubble stuff you would have to depend on glue to stick it to the wall...
and it will delaminate over time and fall down..
on the foam you can use liquid nails on the seams and edges and make a "cooler" out of the whole inside.
and or bolt it in..

I use the high mass of the filled and reinforced cinder block, and cinder block roof out of the same, then skin it with 6 inch studs and spray closed foam insulate the outside, shave it flush, and put on steel roofing material for the siding and roof.
and then spray bed liner material inside for a good seal on the block. then open it for the vents and the gas inlet and power out is through the floor dwv pvc poured concrete.

expensive but bad weather resistant large gen shed.


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

I hear ya on the intake hood. I have one in mind. I wanted to see how things came together before pulling the trigger. For my old enclosure I welded together a stainless hood. It was a simple lean-to shape with sides. I also lined it with MLV. In hindsight Materials + time... Probably gonna buy one this time around.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

you can always pull the gen out and run the fans and use a garden hose for rain simulation..
just to see if the fan can pull in water mist and droplets...
or make a lean too porch over hang the gen shed...

they have those rv vent covers that have a rear inlet you could face down for the air intake..
a bit of hardware cloth to keep the bugs out or even thin foam... as an dust filter
if it was in a dusty location...
mowing grass when the gen is running.. lol...
kinda like an ac unit running when mowing... sure corks up fast.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

if you are retired and have the skills and tig to weld it up..
go for it!! lol!!
but time is money if you are doing a day job... lol $1000.00 in time welding up a $400.00 hood lol!
yea off the shelf...
unless no one makes one.


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

So i'm going to line the back wall of the enclosure in 30gauge galvanized panning sheet. I'm considering 3 mounting methods. 

1. Screwed directly to the back wall with a layer of fiberglass insulation sandwiched in between.

2. Using thin furring strips horizontally to space the sheets 1/4" from the back wall. This way would provide an air gap to cool the metal. 

3. Using the same 1/4" furring strips to provide some space but adding fiberglass insulation to the void and between the furring strips before mounting.

Would one method over another have a positive effect on acoustics?


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

well....
hard question!!
yea the insulation would help on the deadening...
also pond spray foam works well.
if both surfaces were super clean.. no need for fasteners..
that is where the tricky part is on noise...
coupling with fasteners...
hollow spaces makes a place for resonance... kinda like a drum!
so heat is a thing, as well as the noise...
I like your idea on the hollow cavity … 
but maybe just reflective foil... or foil board that is rated for high temperature.


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

Got some more work done on the enclosure.The back wall is one giant 30ga steel heat shield. I went with an air gap in an attempt to reduce the surface temp of the metal. The sheer size of sheets act also as a large heat sink. The hottest part of the metal I've measured remained equal to the hottest air exiting the generator around the catalytic muffler. 

I ditched exhaust extension and elbows in favor for the stock outlet flange. Its actually WAY quieter this way. I took an old baking sheet and spray painted it with some grey grill paint and mounted it to the large metal sheet with an air gap to take disburse the exhaust stream.

I found some very inexpensive foil faced foam firewall insulation on eBay to line some of the enclosure. Its about 3/8" think and has an adhesive back. I only lined the enclosure lid and front doors for now. It made a noticeable difference in noise outside of the enclosure. At this point the large openings from the intake and the exhaust louvers are the only real source of noise. The funny thing is on the exhaust side, The sound of the fan blades is more audible then the actual generator. So Yeah, its very quiet! I have enough to do the side walls, just not enough motivation at the moment.

As for cable management wires are routed along the walls mounted with rubber insulated steel straps. Its looking rather tidy. I also added a blade protector the the exhaust fan out of 1/8 galvanized hardware cloth. I ended up doing the same on the intake side to keep critters out.

I'm quite happy with how everything came together so far. I have additional plans but this is good for now. 

Next up is installing a Microair soft start on my Rheem 3.5ton AC. I'll chime back in with measurements.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

hey dr did you see the stack style vents??
TRY THIS PAGE





generator_stack


generator_stack



www.poustusa.com


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

iowagold said:


> hey dr did you see the stack style vents??
> TRY THIS PAGE
> 
> 
> ...


Honestly, leaving the exhaust stock and using a deflector has proven to be the simplest and quietest option. From infront of the enclosure all you can hear is a gentle hum. From the intake vent side, engine noise is the most audible. From the exhaust fan side the sound of the fan blades is louder then the generator, lol. 

I searched around the web for 20" fan blades with an S-configuration for reduced noise but struck out.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

any thing here do any thing for you?


We're Sorry


msc direct industrial
you might look in to a fan speed control
those help tame the beast!! lol!!
SEE THIS PAGE





HVAC_PAGE


HVAC PAGE



www.poustusa.com


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## logdin (May 25, 2020)

@*drmerdp. *I have a pair of eu3000's paralleled and basically trying to do the same as you did. my back wall is cement board 1/2". I have two gable vents in the front doors. Now to vent the heat and exhaust. the cement board gets up to 156 degrees, but its not transferring heat to the shed wall. except at the very top of the shed where there is no insulation. What exhaust fan and opposite vent/louvers did you go with or would you go with (if you had to do it again).

Not really interested in doing a stack exhaust, and dont want to vent out the back of the shed. Just need a nice breeze coming and across the two gens and out the other side.

I just want to make sure the motor(s) is up to the heat. I'd also consider two smaller fans if that moved more air. I dont want to spend a fortune as this is more or less for a grid down for either fires, cyber attack, perhaps earthquake (guess u know where i live now). It may sound like ive already spent a fortune, but im a savvy buyer and got two for the less than the price of 1.

Just want a good brand that can take the heat, and should i consider two smaller fans or one bigger one like you have?


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

logdin said:


> @*drmerdp. *I have a pair of eu3000's paralleled and basically trying to do the same as you did. my back wall is cement board 1/2". I have two gable vents in the front doors. Now to vent the heat and exhaust. the cement board gets up to 156 degrees, but its not transferring heat to the shed wall. except at the very top of the shed where there is no insulation. What exhaust fan and opposite vent/louvers did you go with or would you go with (if you had to do it again).
> 
> Not really interested in doing a stack exhaust, and dont want to vent out the back of the shed. Just need a nice breeze coming and across the two gens and out the other side.
> 
> ...


so are you in colder cali or warmer cali?
do a thermo switch on the fans like they use in green house
easy to find those.
and you can use a multi speed fan with a step switch if you are in the hot area of the country.

we do our sheds out of concrete block and fill the block with concrete and rebar to make like an out house style gen shack
with another shack right beside it for the fuel so no risk of fire.
clad the outside with tin siding and ground that on all 4 corners for the emp shield.
steel walk door.
they now have that tin in colors to blend in or printed to make it blend in with the house or surroundings.
we use the stack going up to keep the sound up...
or you could use a water muffler setup...
and bury the exhaust vent to a remote area.

the concrete and steel if built right would shield your gens from the heat and fire damage.


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

logdin said:


> @*drmerdp. *I have a pair of eu3000's paralleled and basically trying to do the same as you did. my back wall is cement board 1/2". I have two gable vents in the front doors. Now to vent the heat and exhaust. the cement board gets up to 156 degrees, but its not transferring heat to the shed wall. except at the very top of the shed where there is no insulation. What exhaust fan and opposite vent/louvers did you go with or would you go with (if you had to do it again).
> 
> Not really interested in doing a stack exhaust, and dont want to vent out the back of the shed. Just need a nice breeze coming and across the two gens and out the other side.
> 
> ...


What are the details of your shed? Model, material, dimensions, etc…


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## Browse Deweb (Jan 16, 2021)

drmerdp said:


> I'm quite happy with how everything came together so far. I have additional plans but this is good for now.
> 
> Next up is installing a Microair soft start on my Rheem 3.5ton AC. I'll chime back in with measurements.


Curious how the MicroAir EasyStart went with regards to your 3.5 ton inrush, and how the generator handles it.


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

Browse Deweb said:


> Curious how the MicroAir EasyStart went with regards to your 3.5 ton inrush, and how the generator handles it.


Tired old Rheem 3.5 ton unit.
LRA 120amps. Actual measured inrush 130amps.
5-2-1 hard start dropped inrush to 120amps.
Micro-air soft start dropped inrush down to the 60s.

1 eu7000 could not start A/C, paralleled with an eu2000 the A/C started and ran without issue.
2 eu7000s in eco mode can start the A/C without issue and restart it regardless of additional loads including while running electric dryer.


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## logdin (May 25, 2020)

drmerdp said:


> What are the details of your shed? Model, material, dimensions, etc…


Im in So Cal. on a canyon. southwest facing. Typical afternoon is 90. shed is under a patio cover.

Im using the suncast BMS4700

thanks!


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## logdin (May 25, 2020)

iowagold said:


> so are you in colder cali or warmer cali?
> do a thermo switch on the fans like they use in green house
> easy to find those.
> and you can use a multi speed fan with a step switch if you are in the hot area of the country.
> ...


That sounds like a great idea in the country. My neighbors are 10 feet away however. No square footage on the property for such a structure. City and neighbors would have a fit.


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## Browse Deweb (Jan 16, 2021)

drmerdp said:


> Tired old Rheem 3.5 ton unit.
> LRA 120amps. Actual measured inrush 130amps.
> 5-2-1 hard start dropped inrush to 120amps.
> Micro-air soft start dropped inrush down to the 60s.
> ...


That's awesome! Thanks for clarifying what works for you. Nice setup!


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

logdin said:


> Im in So Cal. on a canyon. southwest facing. Typical afternoon is 90. shed is under a patio cover.
> 
> Im using the suncast BMS4700
> 
> thanks!


The bms4700 is nice and big and will allow a lot of flexibility with eu3000s. The cement board is an effective heat shield, but it will heatsoak to the temp of the exiting air from the generators. I went with ceramic fiberboard because it’s light, rated for ridiculous heat and radiates less heat as a whole. But im working with eu7000s and temps are more critical.

My setup is configured to pull air across the enclosure from left to right instead of front to back Or bottom to top. My intake shutter is 24” and the exhaust fan is a 3 speed 20” unit. The exhaust fan is rated at 4200cfm and so far seems to comfortably keep the enclosure only a few degrees over ambient. The test was on a 85 degree day with both generators running under 50% load.

The last thing you want to do is select a fan that ”should“ be adequate. Personally if I was doing it all over again... I would have went with a 30” intake and 24” exhaust fan.

For a pair of eu3000s the same CFM exhaust fan and square inches of intake would have you covered for 90+ degree temps Reliably. Consider foil faced insulation for the interior of the enclosure to keep the space temperature neutral.









DURAFAN® 20" Select Speed Shutter Fan


This 20 inch Durafan Select Speed exhaust fan is economical and versatile. The totally enclosed motor comes complete with built in speed switches and a 9' cord.




www.qcsupply.com












J&D Manufacturing Aluminum Intake Power Shutter with Motorized Kit & Cord - 24"


Designed as an inlet to bring fresh air into your building, this 24" J and D Manufacturing Aluminum Intake Power Shutter with a Motorized Kit and a 10' Cord can also be used for free-air exhaust.




www.qcsupply.com





I plan to a more elaborate test at some point with multiple temp sensors in critical locations.


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## logdin (May 25, 2020)

drmerdp said:


> The bms4700 is nice and big and will allow a lot of flexibility with eu3000s. The cement board is an effective heat shield, but it will heatsoak to the temp of the exiting air from the generators. I went with ceramic fiberboard because it’s light, rated for ridiculous heat and radiates less heat as a whole. But im working with eu7000s and temps are more critical.
> 
> My setup is configured to pull air across the enclosure from left to right instead of front to back Or bottom to top. My intake shutter is 24” and the exhaust fan is a 3 speed 20” unit. The exhaust fan is rated at 4200cfm and so far seems to comfortably keep the enclosure only a few degrees over ambient. The test was on a 85 degree day with both generators running under 50% load.
> 
> ...


The fan and opposite louver mounted fine without additional support? I do plan to shoot fireblock foam in, but cant really tell if you snuck a wooden frame in there. Also cant find details on operating temp for the fan motor you provided. Want to get stuff ordered today. That vent is on 13 week back order!


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

best to use the concrete board
then aluminum and steel for the frame work to take the heat.
they make steel 2x4 now.
and there is extruded aluminum as well.

there is a low temp aluminum weld system out now as well
pretty cool as you can bond weld with a LP torch or map gas!

we have done tile frame work for bathroom with that weld system.


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## logdin (May 25, 2020)

iowagold said:


> best to use the concrete board
> then aluminum and steel for the frame work to take the heat.
> they make steel 2x4 now.
> and there is extruded aluminum as well.
> ...


are there examples on the forum for the top two ideas. im not picturing it. certainly dont see it in DRs shed.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

no they are not on this forum.
pm for details if you need them.


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## logdin (May 25, 2020)

iowagold said:


> no they are not on this forum.
> pm for details if you need them.


you have my email. please send. thanks


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

I lined the back of the shed with galvanized sheet metal. It’s spaced 1/4” from the shed wall with wood furring strips. The fans are mounted directly to the plastic wall of the shed with no additional framework. I created a precise template of the fan and marked the shed to be cut out. I used a oscillating tool to cut out the square hole. It fit nice and snug. I then siliconed the outside of the fan for water proofing.


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