# [FIXED] Powerland 10K No Power Output



## Gen10K (Jun 25, 2020)

I have a Powerland PDG10000E generator. The gen has no output, no readings on panel. Replaced VAR without results. Also, measured V on Brushes, R1,R2, L1, L2 all with less than 2V and R1 L1 =0

Do I have a fried Alternator or is some else. Also, if the Allternator is gone, where do I get one? Seems near imposible to get a good Gen Part Catalog for this model in particular. However, for what I see, the Alt and Engine, seems to be generic with all Generator Brands... so there are compatablity/commonality with different brands?

Thanks in advanve


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

Doesn't seem like there is much for parts availability.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

gen10k .. how good are you with wrenching?
just replace the gen head assy.
northern tool has a few heads.

or just replace the generator with a non jina clone generator..
I like the eu7000is honda generator and they have a tri fuel kit out now for them
click here for the honda generator pages
there are links for parts as well as whole new generators.


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## Gen10K (Jun 25, 2020)

The Gen was running fine. Was runing the AC, Washing Machine and decided to start the Dryer that is a Gas Dryer. The load should be minimal. All the sudden, lights got dimmer and flickering, the power stop, the engine kept on running. That is when I thought the VAR went south. Well, is not it. I am going to attempt to flash the core using the drill method. If not dice... replace the Stator and Rotor.

So what is the proper name for the Stator & Rotor combo, the Head, Alternator,....?


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

both work "generator head" or some say "alternator"
it is really the generator head.

you should be able to use a good volt ohm meter to check the stator winding's.
I might suspect the diodes on the rotor if the design has them.


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## Gen10K (Jun 25, 2020)

Thanks.


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## Gen10K (Jun 25, 2020)

Well, tried to Re-Flash the core with a Drill, Gen Off and Gen Running. No luck... even used a Cordless Drill to spin the drill to speed.


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

Flashing the alternator is mostly generators that have sat for a long time and lost their excitation. 

You very well might be better off buying a new generator. Unfortunately these inexpensive Chinese gens are designed to be replaced, not repaired.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

gen 10k you need an old school 110 vac drill with out the variable speed control for the flash to work right.
and with the generator running spin the drill by hand with the drill trigger pulled.


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## Gen10K (Jun 25, 2020)

I see... going to look for a Single Speed drill.

Trying to check all and try all before I throw the towel on the Gen Head/Alternator.

Yes, used an old virable speed DeWalt. Did not knew that has to be a non variable speed.


BTW, what do you mean a long time? More than 6 months, a Year, a Decade?


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## Gen10K (Jun 25, 2020)

No dice, the Gen is dead. The motor runs fine, starts right up on Natural Gas but not Electric output.

Need to find a Generator Head/Alternator for a 10K Start/8K Run. Bummer, almost new Gen with less than 10hrs of operation.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

it all depends on the generator on the sit time..
most of the time they are at 1 year or more... then they can loose the magnetism on the rotor...
or if the generator is dropped or bounced hard during transport in the back of a pickup truck or cargo trailer.
this is on the alternator style units that do not have fixed magnets.
I have even seen brand new units that need re-flashed due to rough handling in ups freight shipping.

and for that reason I like the honda eu series of generators... they have fixed magnets on the rotor / flywheel and the stator is the coils.
pretty cool design too.

I am still looking for a replacement 10k generator head.. at least as retail..
most of the larger heads need 28 hp or more to drive them.

when I find one I will post it.


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## Gen10K (Jun 25, 2020)

I have a 16HP, 416 cc Single, Sanding motor.

The Gen was seating roughly few months over a year. Was running fine until I put perhaps, a hair too much on the load. Power just faded away to 0. Looked for tripped circuit breakers and any obvious things like that, could not find any.

I am pretty good with tools and able to follow detailed instructions. Also, have a decent tool set that I was able to replace a 3.4 V6 GM engine Cylinder Heads in my garage. So pulling the Gen Head out seems to be a cake walk 

Before blaming the Gen Head, there is another test that can be done? I hate to throw parts on an issue with the hope to find a fix. I like to troubleshoot the problem, when it happens again, I will know for sure on what to do.

Might pay a visit to the local Harbor Freight and see if they have a Gen Head laying around, just for kicks and giggles.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

it depends on the alternator design for the exact testing.
post a few pix of the head wiring inside the end cover.

I have several gen testing manuals for other models up on the net.
just a bit over 35tb in generator service manuals.
if I saw the inside of the end I bet I could come close.

question for you is this a brush less design?


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## Gen10K (Jun 25, 2020)

Has brushes and check out fine. Will take a pic and post it. However, for what I see, is like many gens around. The VAR is located at about 7 o'clock and the R1, R2, L1, L2 at about 2 o'clock.


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## Gen10K (Jun 25, 2020)

Photo as requested.


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## Gen10K (Jun 25, 2020)

Is this model has a capacitor? Have not seen one beside the one in the VAR.


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

No capacitor just the AVR. I'm assuming thats a brushed alternator. The holder might be the black plastic item located at around 11oclock. If the brushes become pitted or glazed, contact with the armature is lost and the alternator will fail to produce power.

Its worth investigating.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

look behind the control panel where the outlets are or inside it for a cap.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

it all depends on the design if it has a cap


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## Gen10K (Jun 25, 2020)

No caps, looked at the Schematics and took it appart, nothing that resembles a Capacitior was found.


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## Gen10K (Jun 25, 2020)

I did the 12 V Battery but used 18 Gauge Wires. Got a lamp with 100W incandescent light bulb. Got the light to glow to about 10~20% of a 100W should. The lamp was connected to the Gen on one of the 110V Outlets. Cannot get the gen to produce power. Do I need a bigger gauge wire like a 10 to get more Amps into the rotor?

Do I have to do the flash with the Gen Off or On? Some instructions calls for running the gen, other does not say. Also, disconnected the VAR and one time left the 4 wires plug and off the brushes.

Still no power out.


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## Gen10K (Jun 25, 2020)

Well, did all sorts of tricks. Drill Motor, 12V battery flash, no dice... I think the Gen is Toast. I am guessing, the Rotor. Would like to try a new Rotor, I am pretty much sure is the problem. The L1/L2, R1/R2 has the same Voltage, R1/L1 is 0. However, if the Rotor is juiced with a 12V Battery a 100 W bulb start to glow but not at 100% of its illumination. Take the power off, the Bulb dies.

I am betting on the Rotor and not the Stator.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

pull the rotor and inspect it..
see if there is a diode or two
also check the rotor solder connections.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

oh yea refresh my memory this did have brushes right?
you can check the ohms on the brushes terminals with the wires disconnected.


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## Gen10K (Jun 25, 2020)

And the Impedance should be?


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

i will have to look that up
last i recall around 1 ohm.
let me check on that to be sure


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## Gen10K (Jun 25, 2020)

Cool... will look on my end too.


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## Gen10K (Jun 25, 2020)

Well... turns out the Rotor and the Stator are shorted. Went to Northern Tools and was able to order a Gen Head. The original one was a 8K and the new one 8.2K, more is better, right? The new one is about 1/4 shorter and not sure if is going to fit right, might need to get creative with the frame mounts. I thought these Gen Heads were genetic in dimensions, they kind of are, but just small details like the DC connections and lenght. Another thing that I learned is the Motor to Generator Housing. The housing can be a bolted on piece or is part of the motor. Mine is part of the motor.

I am in the installation process, going to need a couple of washers to bolt on the Rotor, as I said, is about 1/4 short.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

what brand and model of meter were you using?
the impedance is super low on the rotor and stator.
most of them in other brands are in the .9 and 1.2 ohm range.
just a heads up.

and you need a good fluke digital meter to work on these right.
there is a super narrow window on the ohms.


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## Gen10K (Jun 25, 2020)

You can see on some sections of the Stator where is "burned", some melted plastic. On the Rotor, a discoloration on one of the windings. Cannot remember the exact numbers, but one set on the Stator resistance was more off compared with each other. Compared to the new one, is pretty much off.


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

Good for you taking the plunge and repairing the generator. As you said, getting creative is a must when the plan is to do what you gotta do to make it work.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

cool on the numbers!
just making sure!
lol!
you might be able to make tabs for the new mounts and use spacers or plates.


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## Gen10K (Jun 25, 2020)

This is the Multimeter thar I bought, has been good. Is a Tacklife CM01S. Bought it because of the price and has a Freq Meter and a Clamp Amp Meter. Wanted some affordable that I can use with my Camper. So far, has been a good product, no complains.


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## Gen10K (Jun 25, 2020)

Mounted the Gen and seems to be running fine except, when I throw the main ciruit breaker ON it trips. Checked the power at the R1/2 and L1/2 lugs, read about 100V, some is coming out.

Now have this that I have no idea how to plug it. On my previous Gen Head, it has a plug with 3 connectors. On this one has 2 plugs with 2 connectors each. I beleive is for the DC Power. How do I connect this? I am assuming one wire is ground and 2 live ones, but both cables are the same color. On my Gen is Blue, Green, Black. On thr new Stator is Brown, Green.

Original Stator









New Stator


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

do you have the wiring diagram for the new head?


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## Gen10K (Jun 25, 2020)

Good question...

Might have to ask, totaly missed that one. Thanks for pointing that out.

I am assuming that are 2 separate windings. On my original one is 1 winding with a what it looks like a Center Tap.


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## Gen10K (Jun 25, 2020)

Here is the deal.

The Generator Head is done, Rotor and Stator are burnt. From Northern Tools, got a Generator Head from their Powerhorse brand, my Gen is from Powerland. These were the closets match that we could find. Is about 1/4 shorter and has 2 plugs for the DC circuits (mine 1 with 3 wires). Ran to the Hardware Store and bought Washers to use them as spacers. So far all bolted on and the motor mounts are flexible enough to make for the difference. A Muffler bracket is about 1/4 off, no big deal, a stack of washer will do the trick.

As I said before, the Main Circuit Breaker trips. It turned out the L1 and L2 where switched. Wired 1 cable to accomodate for the 4th one for the DC Outlet and Battery recharge. Fired up again, no Breaker Trip. Voltage low, about 100V a little tweak of the AVR fixed the problem.

Now running at 240V/120V AC and 12V DC

The new Gen Head is labeled a 8.2KW, the previous one its says 8KW. I guess I got 200 Watts more.

I like this Gen, is a Tri Fuel (Propane, Nat Gas and Gasoline), I hate to chuck it, the motor has low hours.

The Gen is Fixed !


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

coool!
glad you are back up!


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

Nice, that Powerhorse alternator is probably much better quality then the original. Likely has lower THD As well.


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## Gen10K (Jun 25, 2020)

Actually, the box that came in it says DUCAR. Had to pull their schematics.


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