# Best Oil for Florida Use



## StormReady (Aug 21, 2021)

Needing to do my first oil change and wondering whether I should use straight 30W or 10W-30 for Florida, and whether full synthetic vs conventional oil is best. Any suggestions?


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## exmar (Jun 29, 2015)

Viscosity manufacturer recommends after break in period in synthetic.


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## LaSwamp (Mar 16, 2021)

All modern oils are good and you're probably not going to go wrong with whatever you choose to use. That being said, if you want preferences, for my big inverter I used Delo 5w40 diesel oil for the first change after break in since I was in the middle of a six day outage and it was hotter than blazes outside. The inverter ran for about 70 hours non-stop without issue. After the outage ended, I changed the oil again using 10w30 full synthetic. For my smaller inverter, I'll probably stick with 10w30 synthetic. My largest generator uses a 10 hp Briggs and Stratton engine. I stick with a good 5w40 oil and it's worked very well. It's currently seeing duty at Grand Isle where the power is expected to be restored by the end of the year.


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## Dutchy491 (Sep 18, 2019)

Well. I'd recommend the viscosity advised by the OEM or in the manual. Having said that, a good synthetic Small Engine oil, or synthetic Motorcycle oil if none available. I use Amsoil Synthetic Small Engine Oil and get it shipped right to my door. Notice in the link below that the 10/30 handles the heat slightly better than the 10/40. Get a magnetic drain plug too, especially if no oil filter on the unit. 
No knock-off junk here. Dutchy 

Gold Plug LLC – Magnetic Drain Plugs 
or
4 Stroke Power Equipment: Shop Oil for 4 Stroke Equipment - AMSOIL


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## StormReady (Aug 21, 2021)

Ok, synthetic 10W-30. I see that Mobil now has Super Synthetic for high temperature protection. I think that will be my choice.


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## Macko (Jul 12, 2021)

I use 10w30 Mobil One synthetic in both of my Honda 2200i gens. They purrrr like a kitten.


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## Dutchy491 (Sep 18, 2019)

Here’s a recent link on oils. What Oil For Generator?


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

Florida… 10w-30.


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## Winnipegmike (Jun 28, 2020)

I have used the Amsoil small engine 10W-30 in a couple of generators since new. Often in above 30 degree Celsius weather. One has 700 hours, the other close to 1000. When removing the valve covers for adjustments, both looked like new. And valve clearance on both units were in spec. I have never added oil between changes, no noticeable usage on the dipstick. Maybe that would have happened with cheap automotive oil too, who knows? Both are Firman 3650 inverter generators.


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## cosmic (Jul 1, 2021)

I'm in Ocala and I use 10-30 in the mower, generator and my old dodge. 
Sometimes in summer I add a little Lucas oil additive to the truck because of the heat.


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## Dutchy491 (Sep 18, 2019)

The truck has a wet cooling system though. The small engines are simply air cooled. They’re the ones that benefit from the best Oil. If not using a Synthetic Small engine oil why not use a motorcycle oil that can handle heat and high revs in those small engines? I know I know….we all have our favourites. 😉


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## LaSwamp (Mar 16, 2021)

Winnipegmike said:


> I have used the Amsoil small engine 10W-30 in a couple of generators since new. Often in above 30 degree Celsius weather. One has 700 hours, the other close to 1000. When removing the valve covers for adjustments, both looked like new. And valve clearance on both units were in spec. I have never added oil between changes, no noticeable usage on the dipstick. Maybe that would have happened with cheap automotive oil too, who knows? Both are Firman 3650 inverter generators.


My Firman is in the 3650 family. It seems to use a pretty nice little motor. Mine runs really well. I wish the signal was cleaner, but it's still a nice generator.


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## cosmic (Jul 1, 2021)

I started my little predator 2000 with Castrol 10-30. Then I came to this group and learned about synthetic oils. Can I change to a full synthetic without causing a disaster of some kind? 
The gen is well broken in and has had three oil changes all the same 10-30.


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## Dutchy491 (Sep 18, 2019)

Yep, Perfect time since you’ve got it nicely broken in for sure. My favourite Small Engine synthetic oil is mentioned in an earlier post, and I recommend a synthetic motorcycle oil if nothing else. A car oil isn’t completely appropriate because it doesn’t have the tough ZDDP anti wear ingredients which can cause issues with the pollution equipment. Secondly if you could install a good magnetic drain plug, which will catch any iron wear particles, to further reduce those particles. Especially as most small engines have no oil filter…😉


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## cosmic (Jul 1, 2021)

Thanks Dutchy, I was concerned about switching and now I'll do it next change. 
The predator runs amazingly cool for a small machine, the cowling directs the air flow front to back and there is a good flow from the rear grill. I've had weed wackers run hotter and louder.


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## cosmic (Jul 1, 2021)

Dutchy491 said:


> The truck has a wet cooling system though. The small engines are simply air cooled. They’re the ones that benefit from the best Oil. If not using a Synthetic Small engine oil why not use a motorcycle oil that can handle heat and high revs in those small engines? I know I know….we all have our favourites. 😉


The truck has a Cummins turbo diesel and I don't like shutting it down if I don't have to when it's really hot here. The average daily temp April to October is 90-98°, quick shutdown is when overheating happens in the turbo causing big trouble. 
If I have to shutdown I let it idle about 10-15 minutes then cut it.
So a little Lucas additive keeps the oil thick and coating but not to thick to help cool. 20 years and running strong.


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

cosmic said:


> The truck has a Cummins turbo diesel and I don't like shutting it down if I don't have to when it's really hot here. The average daily temp April to October is 90-98°, quick shutdown is when overheating happens in the turbo causing big trouble.
> If I have to shutdown I let it idle about 10-15 minutes then cut it.
> So a little Lucas additive keeps the oil thick and coating but not to thick to help cool. 20 years and running strong.


They sell turbo timers specifically for that. Remote start kits have the feature as well. It’ll shut off on its own at a preset time, Lock the truck and walk away.

Those second gen turbos didn’t have water lines to cool the CHRA.


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## StormReady (Aug 21, 2021)

Dutchy491 said:


> Yep, Perfect time since you’ve got it nicely broken in for sure. My favourite Small Engine synthetic oil is mentioned in an earlier post, and I recommend a synthetic motorcycle oil if nothing else. A car oil isn’t completely appropriate because it doesn’t have the tough ZDDP anti wear ingredients which can cause issues with the pollution equipment. Secondly if you could install a good magnetic drain plug, which will catch any iron wear particles, to further reduce those particles. Especially as most small engines have no oil filter…😉


Yes, will definitely get that magnetic drain plug - saw one at Amazon mentioned in a different post. How do you know if it's a good one? Lastly, do you have the part number for getting the oil drain crush washers? I saw several at Amazon and I think 12mm is the size but not sure whether to go with a Honda washer. Any recommendations?


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## cosmic (Jul 1, 2021)

drmerdp said:


> They sell turbo timers specifically for that. Remote start kits have the feature as well. It’ll shut off on its own at a preset time, Lock the truck and walk away.
> 
> Those second gen turbos didn’t have water lines to cool the CHRA.


The single incoming oil line to the turbo unit illustrates the importance of oil as coolant in any machine. There is great airflow over the header and turbo components that helps . 

The small engines we use with the super hot spark and higher octane requirements can really make some heat on a hot day. When I had mowing crews standard practice was to idle down for at least 5 minutes before shutdown letting the engine go from extreme operating temp to somewhat normal operating temp.
Every engine here is working in the extreme service catagory, and then theres the dust..


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## Dutchy491 (Sep 18, 2019)

Yes crush washers are important, but I’ve rarely ever had to change one. However, always good to have a spare. One important pointer that I’d like to emphasize is…go easy on the torque. Most small engine cases are aluminum and it’s very easy to strip the threads. Just turn them nice and snug!!! No gorilla strength required….😉


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## StormReady (Aug 21, 2021)

Great advice. I'll postpone buying washers at this point and don't over-torque the nut. Noticed on Amazon that a US company makes a magnetic drain plug with neodymium magnet. What I read is that all magnets are not the same and neodymium magnets are the most powerful. What do you think of this drain plug: 








Amazon.com: Votex - M12 X 1.5MM Stainless Steel Engine Magnetic Oil Drain Plug with Neodymium Magnet - Made In USA - Part Number DP010 : Automotive


Buy Votex - M12 X 1.5MM Stainless Steel Engine Magnetic Oil Drain Plug with Neodymium Magnet - Made In USA - Part Number DP010: Oil Drain Plugs - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



www.amazon.com


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## Dutchy491 (Sep 18, 2019)

I’m not familiar with those, but I have several Goldplugs and I’m very happy with them. I’ve usually bought a spare washer at the same time, but have yet to need one. I included a link in a previous post…


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## cosmic (Jul 1, 2021)

OK, just changed the oil to full synthetic. I went with Valvoline 10-30 because it's available at AutoZone up the street and they are one of the only places open in a disaster (county contract or something like that) they also have a big cat generator out back, I picked up 4 quarts.
The old oil was nice dark amber, clean, no metal on the stick, good. 

So I ran the gen and checked the oil all is fine. I decided to give it a workout by running a 1400w space heater for about a half hour, no problem, just can't use eco mode the machine is 1600w running 2000 surge and the heater needs about 1450 to operate the heater element and fan, the gen handled it well. 
I just hope we don't have a blackout freeze like Texas last year.


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## pipe (Jun 27, 2021)

StormReady said:


> .. the part number for getting the oil drain crush washers? I saw several at Amazon and I think 12mm is the size..











Amazon.com: EZ (EZ-107) Silver 12mm-1.75 Thread Size Oil Drain Valve : Automotive


Buy EZ (EZ-107) Silver 12mm-1.75 Thread Size Oil Drain Valve: Oil Drain Plugs - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



www.amazon.com





or









Amazon.com: EZ (EZ-109) Silver 12mm-1.5 Thread Size Oil Drain Valve : Automotive


Buy EZ (EZ-109) Silver 12mm-1.5 Thread Size Oil Drain Valve: Oil Drain Plugs - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



www.amazon.com





The EZ109 is attached to all our Honda eu7000isnan generators and it is also available with an extension enabling a small tube attachment.


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## JVazquez53 (Jul 8, 2021)

StormReady said:


> Needing to do my first oil change and wondering whether I should use straight 30W or 10W-30 for Florida, and whether full synthetic vs conventional oil is best. Any suggestions?


Can't go wrong using 10W30 Mobil One. I have used that since 1999 and I live in the tropics. Use it after the initial break in with conventional 10W30 oil.


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## Dutchy491 (Sep 18, 2019)

If it’s a car oil it’s not the best option, just saying…


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## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

Yeah, IMHO there's a big grey area when it comes to choosing motor oil. Of course, using the correct viscosity is bar none the most important thing. However, viscosities and oil performance change during the lifetime of the oil so the next important thing that comes in are the additives.

The additive package changes the qualities of the oil depending on whether it's meant for gasoline or Diesel and whether it's for small engines, automotive engines, or motorcycle engines. But then the lines are blurred further down. For example, motorcycle oil can also be made for those that has a wet clutch or for scooters without a clutch (belt-driven CVT). The additives also helps prolong the service life of the actual base lubricant, among others. It extends the operating temperature of the oil (multigrade vs monograde), it's packed with the correct detergents to suspend combustion by-products which are vastly different depending on whether it's a gasoline or a Diesel engine and whether there are clutch particulates to take care of. I think everyone agrees that the additive package serves an equally important role as the lubricant itself.

However, it's not to say that using the wrong kind of oil (but again, with the correct viscosity) will destroy your generator. If you change the oil regularly enough, I don't think it can deteriorate past a point to cause any major issues. But if you want to be pedantic about it, small engine oil is best-suited for these air-cooled engines. Personally, I'm using scooter oil because a)The oil is designed for air-cooled, splash-type engines, b) No wet clutch, and c) Nobody's selling small engine oil where I am.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

any oil with a friction modifier in a standard engine is not a good idea.

here is why
they modify so it will not be as slick...
making a wet clutch work on the bikes with an all together one oil system...

that can be a bad thing when it gets up to the upper things like cam.
but most of the bike oils counter this with the zddp.
not sure how this works right with the wet clutch..
but some how it does.
it must be a trade off in there some where in the chemistry.

for me royal purple has been a standard in industrial oils for years.
and is the gold standard. we use it on equipment that never gets an oil change.
or in severe duty systems.
you just change out the socks in the kidney system. most of those industrial systems are 50 gallon and up.

right with that royal purple is the ams oil. the ams splits up the oils to many oil needs more that other brands so one oil type does not do all engines. and they also have a kidney system for a price.

mobile one is up there as well right along with castrol full synthetic.
it is for systems that do get oil changes.

rotella has been the standard in oil for diesel for years and years.
it is made to handle the carbon trash and suspend it so it can be sent to the filter system.
i have seen that rotella oil perform well if they add on a $2500.00 kidney system.
yea it is a lot of up front cash...
but if on a large boat, or simi that never gets shut down. it is worth it!
time is money in those applications for sure. and down time is a real bad day.

on our little gasoline and LP NG gens with no filters...
yea change it at the 50-100 hours 50 hours is like 3000 miles and 100 hours is like 6000 miles.
and if it is black it is a bad thing change it sooner.

i wish all small gen sets had a kidney filtration system from the factory..
they are easy to add on to a gx 390 engine... but they do cost real cash up front.
and are tricky on the first set up on the system.


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## Dutchy491 (Sep 18, 2019)

Paul, I think that you’ve got it backwards. Most car rated oils contain friction modifiers. Light weight or low viscosity oils need help to reduce friction and fms help reduce friction and improve fuel economy. Something that motorcycle oils don’t need because the generally higher viscosity oils are geared to withstand higher temperatures and rpms, protecting transmissions etc. and not focused on improved fuel economy like a car oil would be. Copied the following from google…. Low viscosity oils have poorer film forming properties and so in passenger cars, friction modifiers are used to reduce metal-on-metal friction and wear. In a motorcycle, *lower viscosity oils are not generally used because the oil must also lubricate the transmission*. I’ve said it before that I think using a motorcycle oil is generally better than a car oil in a small engine, if a small engine oil isn’t readily available.


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## pipe (Jun 27, 2021)

iowagold said:


> ..are easy to add on to a gx 390 engine... but they do cost real cash up front...and are tricky on the first set up on the system.


Do you have a link that describes how this is done


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

pipe said:


> Do you have a link that describes how this is done


we custom build these.


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## pipe (Jun 27, 2021)

Any issue in describing steps for the addition of oil filter, kit used, part#, ie. filter, adapter, oil pump?, for the eu7000 with gx390

Do not think we will get to ship any units for custom build purpose while pandemic rages on


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## kairus00 (Sep 9, 2021)

Hey folks I'm in South Florida and trying to decide whether to use the 10W-30 or 10W-40 variant of the Amsoil Synthetic Small Engine oil. I'll be breaking in my new generator with Honda Power Equipment 10W-30 to start and then switching to synthetic.

Below is the chart from the manufacturer (DuroMax XP9000iH), which looks to be the same chart as on my Champion 100519.


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## Dutchy491 (Sep 18, 2019)

Well I’m a long time Amsoil user and I have used Amsoil 10w40 AMO for many years. However since they came out with their small engine oils and I also have a new Honda inverter I’ve used the 10w30 ASE in this new one. Never had an issue running the 10w40 in my older em5000 and the same with the 10w30 in the new one. If it helps, I believe Honda now recommends the 10w30 for most of their small engines. You’d be well served with either…😬


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

yup 10-30 syn is the best for summer temps.
for iowa fall to spring we like 5-30 syn then when the temps hit 70 for the lows we switch for the 10-30 syn...

and super cold temps we like the 0-30... or keep the gen in a warm gen shed for warmer with the 10-30 syn oil.


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