# Honda 3000 starter



## pass1over (Aug 1, 2017)

Had a stator burn out on my Honda 3000 recently. Bought a new one and got the unit all back together. But ran across something odd. The key activates the starter and it turns the motor over, but I get no spark and the motor never fires. However, if you pull the cord, it fires right up.

I only see two wires to connect to the starter, and they're both connected. I never unplugged anything from the ignition coil. 


Is it a bad switch?

I couldn't find specs on gaps, so is my ignition coil too far away from the rotor possibly?


----------



## Robert Coats (Nov 10, 2011)

pass1over said:


> Had a stator burn out on my Honda 3000 recently.


Which exact "Honda 3000" do you have? A serial number would be ideal...


----------



## pass1over (Aug 1, 2017)

it's a Honda EU3000iS inverter unit, do not have access to serial atm.


----------



## pass1over (Aug 1, 2017)

bought in 2003-2005 probably


----------



## Robert Coats (Nov 10, 2011)

How strong is the battery? Does the engine seem to be turning 'fast enough' when you use the electric start?

The EU3000is does have a minimum rotation speed BEFORE it will make spark. Perhaps you're able to hit or exceed this speed with your arms and the pull starter, but the battery may be too weak, or some other part(s) is catching/dragging and the engine isn't turning fast enough for the circuit to allow juice to reach the coil.


----------



## grouchy-hermit (Nov 28, 2014)

Robert Coats said:


> The EU3000is does have a minimum rotation speed BEFORE it will make spark.


Just curious. Is that by design? If so, can you explain why?


----------



## pass1over (Aug 1, 2017)

battery is brand new, turns the motor over at a normal speed I would say. The same as it did before.

I pulled the plug, grounded it, and turned key .... got no spark


----------



## Osviur (Sep 7, 2015)

Hi,
Below, is the start combination switch diagram. In the OFF position, the IG and E lines are connected, Ig comes from the ignition coil and E is common ground. In the ON position there are not connections between lines, in START position BAT and ST are connected. ST comes from the start relay.


The only function of this switch is to connect to ground the output of the primary ignition coil to turn off the engine and activate the start relay.
With battery removed and blue wire disconnected from the switch, check continuity between the blue wire coming from the switch and ground. Only in the OFF position there must be continuity.
With this test is possible to discard, for this case, a failure in the switch.
If you attach an extension to the blue wire coming from the ignition coil, disconnected from the switch, and start the engine electrically, it should start. Put the extension wire to ground ( frame) and it will turn off, Be careful not touching the extension metallic part (it is very unpleasant). If the engine starts, it will confirm a switch failure. 

Regards.


----------



## pass1over (Aug 1, 2017)

so I pulled the panel back off on Sunday and went to go perform the above procedure. But, the blue wire doesn't go anywhere. It comes out of the switch, into the plug, but there's no corresponding wire that attaches to it.


----------



## Robert Coats (Nov 10, 2011)

A few illustrations / procedures from the shop manual...suggest you test the combination switch and starter relay:


----------



## Osviur (Sep 7, 2015)

Hi pass1over,

Sorry, I made a mistake, Bl means Black, as indicated in the attached table and Bu means blue which does not go anywhwere.

Please replace in my note blue with black and test again.

Regards.


----------



## pass1over (Aug 1, 2017)

thankyou Robert and Osviur!

was taking the carb apart last night to soak and out shot the little compression spring on the top and it's now lost forever.

I'll check out the relay and test the switch while I wait on that spring to arrive.


Robert - did you mean to post the relay test twice or was the ignition switch test supposed to be in there as well?


----------



## pass1over (Aug 1, 2017)

still fighting with this. I just used the pull start last year at Sebring, but now the problem has changed kind of. Pull start broke when I was going to exercise it awhile back. Got that fixed and put back on.


I've followed the diagnosis procedure and it told me that it was a bad combination switch. Bought a new switch and it does the same exact thing. It will crank the motor, but no spark at the plug.

If I disconnect the combination switch and pull the cord, I get spark at the plug and the genny will run and output power. Plug the switch in and the genny dies.

Checked the start relay and I Can hear it clicking when I apply 12V to D and E.

Is it a bad ignition module unit? How can I test it, or do I just buy a new one?


----------

