# Generac GT530 on a 10000E Generator blowing oil out of both cylinders



## GY63 (10 mo ago)

My Generac XG10000E GT530 Model 0058022 has 22 hours on it since 2013. I have oil in both cylinders. It always ran fine and I used treated fuel and swapped it out every couple years or ran it empty. This Spring I tried to start it and it would just crank. If I primed the carb intake with fuel it would start and run until that was gone. I did _allot_ _of cranking_ trying to get it to start. I did not allow any bad/old fuel to sit in the carb ever although my fuel tank rusted inside by 2017. I cleaned and applied a KBS Coatings 52050 Large Cycle Tank Sealer Kit to the tank. That started peeling within a year and it still rusted underneath the coating. The fine screen OEM fuel filter seemed to catch any rust debris before they polluted the carb. I just replaced the tank & fuel filter this month (March 2022) and I tried to start it again with the new fuel tank, filter & fresh fuel. Same thing - Just cranks. Fuel line is clear. Now suddenly it starts up after not starting for _many attempts _but it surges and it starts blowing oil smoke out the exhaust. It did not blow any smoke/oil when I got it to run primed before I replaced the tank. It was so bad there was a pint (estimated) puddle of oil that dripped out of the exhaust. Pulled plugs and both have oil on them. There was so much oil coming out of the exhaust in 45 - 60 seconds I can’t see it coming through a cylinder wall scratch or piston ring and oil is in _both_ cylinders by evidence of oil on both plugs. Oil level was correct and not over-serviced. What would allow a pint (estimated) or more of oil into the exhaust ports within about 60 seconds? Why did it finally start and run but only when it was bypassing oil into the exhaust? Why did it wait until I spent $300 on a new fuel tank! Any advice would be humbly & gratefully appreciated.


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## AndrewL (Jul 24, 2017)

Check for a clogged crankcase breather tube. Could cause pressure to build up in crankcase and push oil up past rings.


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## ToolLover (Jan 13, 2020)

Maybe these guys can help:





Ziller Forum







www.zillerstore.com


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## GY63 (10 mo ago)

AndrewL said:


> Check for a clogged crankcase breather tube. Could cause pressure to build up in crankcase and push oil up past rings.


Excellent idea - I will check when I get home tonight


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## GY63 (10 mo ago)

ToolLover said:


> Maybe these guys can help:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I posted my issue there as well - thank you!


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## sdowney717 (12 mo ago)

Check engine compression, maybe rings are stuck, may have gotten rusty rings and cylinders. That sounds like a lot of oil coming out. Engines that sit a long time get corrosion on the inside.

Why it finally started? Maybe excess oil build up on top the piston allowed enough compression to barely run. It is also possible if you can let it run it will unstick the rings. If rings are stuck a lot of oil can slip past the pistons.


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## GY63 (10 mo ago)

sdowney717 said:


> Check engine compression, maybe rings are stuck, may have gotten rusty rings and cylinders. That sounds like a lot of oil coming out. Engines that sit a long time get corrosion on the inside.
> 
> Why it finally started? Maybe excess oil build up on top the piston allowed enough compression to barely run. It is also possible if you can let it run it will unstick the rings. If rings are stuck a lot of oil can slip past the pistons.


It's a somewhat bizarre chain of events. It started and ran fine every time I primed it with fuel directly to the carb air intake eliminating allot of things, thus I thought contaminated fuel from the rusty tank was the culprit. I replace the tank and it still would not start. It would cough and try to start. I left it alone for a week or so and try it and it starts right up but surges and fogs my garage with oil smoke. So it wouldn't run, but then did run with oil issue.


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## madman75 (Jul 17, 2018)

It appears to be an OHV engine. Possibly a blown head gasket. If the gasket is bad at the valve push rod chamber side, this could let compression into the crankcase and pressure it up and push oil into the cylinder or allow it to pull oil in on the intake stroke.. I've seen it many times on the OHV Briggs and Stuggles. I've had to replace a few on the Briggs. A compression test may help in trouble shooting


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## GY63 (10 mo ago)

madman75 said:


> It appears to be an OHV engine. Possibly a blown head gasket. If the gasket is bad at the valve push rod chamber side, this could let compression into the crankcase and pressure it up and push oil into the cylinder or allow it to pull oil in on the intake stroke.. I've seen it many times on the OHV Briggs and Stuggles. I've had to replace a few on the Briggs. A compression test may help in trouble shooting


Yes a compression test is on my list. Head gasket a definite possibility. Still trying to wrap my head around the sequence of events. It wasn't behaving this way when it was running on primed fuel for example.


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## madman75 (Jul 17, 2018)

A few years ago I was mowing with my rider. Shut it down to refuel it. I went to start it back up and it smoked like a bug fogger. It was fine when I shut it down to refuel. So a head gasket can go at any time.


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## ebj (Apr 5, 2021)

Check your oil level to see if it is overfilled. Your might have had fuel overflowing the bowl and leaking into the engine while the gen was not running. This diluted oil gas mix easily works it’s way into the cylinders causing an oily and very smokey exhaust.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

also do a leak down test that will check the head gasket.


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## sdowney717 (12 mo ago)

A blown head gasket on both sides at same time in the right spot to cause such a massive oil leak?
Or is it just one side and oil is moves into other side?
Only way is the head has pressurized oil and the gasket is allowing that to leak into the cylinder as it runs
U don't know anything until you do a psi check, And you need to crank that engine with plugs out to blow out accumulated oil in the cylinder first before measuring.

A leak down test can check the rings, you will hear air coming into the crankcase.








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## GY63 (10 mo ago)

sdowney717 said:


> A blown head gasket on both sides at same time in the right spot to cause such a massive oil leak?
> Or is it just one side and oil is moves into other side?
> Only way is the head has pressurized oil and the gasket is allowing that to leak into the cylinder as it runs
> U don't know anything until you do a psi check, And you need to crank that engine with plugs out to blow out accumulated oil in the cylinder first before measuring.
> ...


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## GY63 (10 mo ago)

All great advice and I REALLY appreciate all your help!!! Oil level was fine - not over-serviced. I have the gauges and will do a compression & leak down test. Good tip to expel oil from cylinders first...I was thinking about that, the oil messing up the gauge. I am a bit skeptical of the head gasket on a 22 hour engine all of a sudden without even being run, hot or under load...and both cylinders? Although it is definitely one of the few causes to result in a massive oil loss through the exhaust in a short amount of time - I agree. I would like to start with the breather as well. How do I know if the breather is bad if the hose is clear? Just replace the breather components? I see the are two main components to the breather assy. I just saw that I have oil residue in the intake under the air filter as well. I have time to work on this thing one the next couple days...I will do a compression test and could order breather components. THANK YOU to all!!!!


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## sdowney717 (12 mo ago)

GY63 said:


> All great advice and I REALLY appreciate all your help!!! Oil level was fine - not over-serviced. I have the gauges and will do a compression & leak down test. Good tip to expel oil from cylinders first...I was thinking about that, the oil messing up the gauge. I am a bit skeptical of the head gasket on a 22 hour engine all of a sudden without even being run, hot or under load...and both cylinders? Although it is definitely one of the few causes to result in a massive oil loss through the exhaust in a short amount of time - I agree. I would like to start with the breather as well. How do I know if the breather is bad if the hose is clear? Just replace the breather components? I see the are two main components to the breather assy. I just saw that I have oil residue in the intake under the air filter as well. I have time to work on this thing one the next couple days...I will do a compression test and could order breather components. THANK YOU to all!!!!


Any and all breather components simply need to flow air, so not clogged up. That should be easy to determine.


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## GY63 (10 mo ago)

sdowney717 said:


> Any and all breather components simply need to flow air, so not clogged up. That should be easy to determine.


Copy...will check today!


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## Dutchy491 (Sep 18, 2019)

But you say that about a pint of oil blew out, yet you say that the oil level is fine “ not over serviced”. Can’t have both, so make sure that the oil isn’t diluted with fuel. As per post #11…


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## GY63 (10 mo ago)

Dutchy491 said:


> But you say that about a pint of oil blew out, yet you say that the oil level is fine “ not over serviced”. Can’t have both, so make sure that the oil isn’t diluted with fuel. As per post #11…


Of course...I have had reponses that maybe the oil WAS over serviced prior to the event. I mentioned that it was not to eliminate that notion. Now the oil level is at the bottom of the stick. This thing probably blew out .5 pints atomized - it fogged the **** out of my garage and as well dripped about (had to guesstimate) a pint on the floor...probably more like a half a pint. I was so thrilled it kept running I didn't react quick enough in shutting it down (45 sec?)


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## Dutchy491 (Sep 18, 2019)

Brother you’re missing the point. We are asking if the fuel has overflowed into the oil, thus effectively “making” oil. We’ve understood that it wasn’t over serviced. You’re not answering whether or not there is gas in the oil. Ie, if there is then the oil level was too high due to fuel and that could be the reason why it’s blowing oil because of the increased fluid in the sump…


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## sdowney717 (12 mo ago)

yes, could be the carb float failed and too much gas got into the oil. You should be able to see that easily enough, the engine oil will be really thinned out. I got my 8000 watt Troybuilt due to that problem, owner was running it, carb float needle failed, diluted the oil, engine overfilled to the max and came pouring out of the intake and exhaust. I paid $50 for it unknown condition, non running, fixed carb, changed oil and it was fine.


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## GY63 (10 mo ago)

Dutchy491 said:


> Brother you’re missing the point. We are asking if the fuel has overflowed into the oil, thus effectively “making” oil. We’ve understood that it wasn’t over serviced. You’re not answering whether or not there is gas in the oil. Ie, if there is then the oil level was too high due to fuel and that could be the reason why it’s blowing oil because of the increased fluid in the sump…


Very familiar with the term. I got you...I checked the oil level just prior to this event and it was full to the top 3/4 crosshatch servicing range of the dip stick (properly serviced). It is now at the bottom 1/4 of the crosshatch servicing range of the dip stick. I do not smell any fuel in the oil that I can discern. I just did a compression check and have 205 PSI & 215 PSI. I would assume I take apart the breather assy next.


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## GY63 (10 mo ago)

sdowney717 said:


> yes, could be the carb float failed and too much gas got into the oil. You should be able to see that easily enough, the engine oil will be really thinned out. I got my 8000 watt Troybuilt due to that problem, owner was running it, carb float needle failed, diluted the oil, engine overfilled to the max and came pouring out of the intake and exhaust. I paid $50 for it unknown condition, non running, fixed carb, changed oil and it was fine.


Understand


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## sdowney717 (12 mo ago)

GY63 said:


> Very familiar with the term. I got you...I checked the oil level just prior to this event and it was full to the top 3/4 crosshatch servicing range of the dip stick (properly serviced). It is now at the bottom 1/4 of the crosshatch servicing range of the dip stick. I do not smell any fuel in the oil that I can discern. I just did a compression check and have 205 PSI & 215 PSI. I would assume I take apart the breather assy next.


That is really good compression. Good news. Likely the rings are ok. You can still have good compression rings and stuck or broken as in snapped oil control rings and pump a lot of oil. But it is encouraging. Oil could be too thin. I still don't understand how both head gaskets could be bad at the same time, like you were saying both spark plugs have oil on them. Unless oil is somehow moving back across to the other cylinder through the intake manifold and only one head gasket is bad. But anyway you dont just do one, you do both if your going to replace it.


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## McCorby (Apr 26, 2021)

Any chance the unit was at some point tipped on its side?

I apologize if someone already asked this!


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## GY63 (10 mo ago)

McCorby said:


> Any chance the unit was at some point tipped on its side?
> 
> I apologize if someone already asked this!


Was not tipped. Agree with head gaskets. 22 hour engine. Still do not understand secession of events; ran great a year ago - sat for a year in insulated garage with treated premium Shell fuel - this spring I try to start and only cranks (coughs a bit like trying to start occasionally) - does start and run wide open when primed - when prime fuel runs out shuts down - I replace fuel tank (about a month has gone by since last start attempt) - Unit starts right up and blows oil out of the exhaust. Don't get it.


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## GY63 (10 mo ago)

GY63 said:


> Was not tipped. Agree with head gaskets. 22 hour engine. Still do not understand secession of events; ran great a year ago - sat for a year in insulated garage with treated premium Shell fuel - this spring I try to start and only cranks (coughs a bit like trying to start occasionally) - does start and run wide open when primed - when prime fuel runs out shuts down - I replace fuel tank (about a month has gone by since last start attempt) - Unit starts right up and blows oil out of the exhaust. Don't get it.


My point is when and why did the symptoms/problem abruptly change course...


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## GY63 (10 mo ago)

GY63 said:


> My point is when and why did the symptoms/problem abruptly change course...


Just put plugs back in and started again. It started right up but ran very choppy - backfired through carb - then after about 6-7 seconds started fogging oil out of the exhaust and into the air cleaner housing (had air cleaner removed).


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## McCorby (Apr 26, 2021)

What happens if you run it with the breather tube disconnected from the air box? Does a significant amount of oil blowout of the breather tube? If so, does the exhaust stop smoking when the tube is disconnected?


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## GY63 (10 mo ago)

McCorby said:


> What happens if you run it with the breather tube disconnected from the air box? Does a significant amount of oil blowout of the breather tube? If so, does the exhaust stop smoking when the tube is disconnected?


Excellent...will do next.


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## GY63 (10 mo ago)

Disconnected vent tube at breather assy. Attempted start. Starts up - revs up - starts to fog smoke out of the exhaust - oil blows out of the breather assy - shuts down. Repeated 4 times.


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## GY63 (10 mo ago)

Another clue. Fuel is puddling at the lowest part of the air filter box and running back down the oil breather hose. I sopped it up before latest 4 start attempt and now there is fuel puddled in there again.


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## GY63 (10 mo ago)

GY63 said:


> Another clue. Fuel is puddling at the lowest part of the air filter box and running back down the oil breather hose. I sopped it up before latest 4 start attempt and now there is fuel puddled in there again.


When I was priming it before I replaced the fuel tank I was dumping a half cup or so of fuel into the air cleaner box. That would have ran down the breather hose into the breather assy as well as the carb. Would that have damaged the breather assy?


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## GY63 (10 mo ago)

YOU GUYS WERE TOTALLY CORRECT... I drained the oil and it was like brown fuel it was so thin. I did not notice fuel smell on the dip stick as I said but I don't have the best sniffer. No telling how much damage has been done to the engine with all of the cranking and brief runs. I have to have a needle valve stuck or something allowing fuel to leak through the carb into the cylinders. I had no idea until I noticed fuel puddling in the bottom of the air cleaner box when checking the breather vent tube plus all of the advice that the oil HAS to be diluted. This condition occurred at some point between me pulling the generator out for spring start up and me replacing the fuel tank. It would not start and run unless primed in the beginning, but after a while something stuck allowing it to leak fuel into the cylinders. The problem changed. When I checked the oil it was serviced properly but that was before it started leaking fuel into the cylinders. So I have a carb problem for which I will have to disassemble the carb that became an oil dilution issue after something hung in the carb at some point during trying to start it. Now I also have a "how much did I screw this thing up" problem from brief start attempt wear. Jeesh...feel stupid.


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## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

You should be fine. I don't think you've cause any significant long-term damage. Diluted oil is still better than no oil.

Just change it out... maybe twice... to get most, if not all of the gasoline out of the crankcase.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

yea at least a couple of times of oil change out.
check the carb float etc.


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## sdowney717 (12 mo ago)

quite possible the gasoline dilution into the oil could be happening when engine is off. See the carb needle valve leaking will allow fuel to flow past the main jet, into the intake manifold and into the intake valve bowl, where if the intake valve is opened up then down into the piston where it slips past the rings and into the crankcase. To prevent that, always turn off the fuel valve at the tank. Position of the main fuel emulsion tube is usually right at the venturi in the carb, meaning fuel can flow into the motor and you will never see it.
So you will need to take the carb fuel bowl off, and clean up or replace the float and the needle valve. Dirt on the valve can cause sticking and so then flooding too, so you must have a fuel filter of some kind on the incoming fuel line.

Some fuel needle valve have a rubber ring on the inside and an entirely metal needle valve, and some dont have any rubber, and on some it has rubber on the tip.


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## GY63 (10 mo ago)

I think it is leaking through statically just as you stated. I never noticed it puddled in the air intake until yesterday. Its taking that path down cylinder/s wall to crankcase. I am not a big "carb guy" with limited rebuild experience so not sure if I buy a complete rebuild kit or what. It will be an adventure! I will advise after I disassemble it. Thank you all so much for your insightful wisdom - it's priceless. REALLY appreciate the help.


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## GY63 (10 mo ago)

GY63 said:


> I think it is leaking through statically just as you stated. I never noticed it puddled in the air intake until yesterday. Its taking that path down cylinder/s wall to crankcase. I am not a big "carb guy" with limited rebuild experience so not sure if I buy a complete rebuild kit or what. It will be an adventure! I will advise after I disassemble it. Thank you all so much for your insightful wisdom - it's priceless. REALLY appreciate the help.


I was thinking about just replacing it vs rebuilding it. Generac 0E9383F Carburetor GT530 XG10 is $159 - $179! I don't want to play around with disassembly and a kit only to have more issues though not really knowing how to rebuild carbs.


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## sdowney717 (12 mo ago)

GY63 said:


> I was thinking about just replacing it vs rebuilding it. Generac 0E9383F Carburetor GT530 XG10 is $159 - $179! I don't want to play around with disassembly and a kit only to have more issues though not really knowing how to rebuild carbs.


Honestly, it is very easy to replace a needle valve + float. 








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Yes more like an auto carb, still the fuel bowl is held by screws, the float and needle is inside, this one may replace the needle and the seat too. Not that hard to work on, I have worked on hundreds of these things.

For other small engines, this
One big nut on the bottom holds on the fuel bowl.
Then it drops down exposing the float. push or pull out the float hinge pin, and the needle comes down with the float. Then reverse to put back together. Look at a parts diagram for the carb to see how it all fits together.
Needle valve needs to move smoothly in the small bore, it simply slides up and down the float pushes it up to seal and pulls it down to open.

My own Troybuilt 8000 where the needle valve failed , I think it just needed a new needle valve, float was ok.
A float needs to when shaked not have any liquid inside. And you immerse it in warm water and see if any air bubble show up. The price difference for a needle valve vs whole new carb is extreme.


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## sdowney717 (12 mo ago)

ALSO, after seeing this particular carb, is there a fuel pump on this generator?
Is it electric? If so, is it off when engine is off?
It is possible it could be over pressuring the carb, too much pressure will force the needle valve to open and flood the engine.


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## GY63 (10 mo ago)

sdowney717 said:


> ALSO, after seeing this particular carb, is there a fuel pump on this generator?
> Is it electric? If so, is it off when engine is off?
> It is possible it could be over pressuring the carb, too much pressure will force the needle valve to open and flood the engine.


No fuel pump. I just drained more fuel out of the oil drain just now after draining completely last night so fuel is just running through the system. Yes, $179 pricey although worth it if I have to keep fiddling with this thing (like i damage something in the rebuild etc). Will turn off fuel, change oil twice, pull carb & check floats, needle & seat. I have definitely went 2 years or so over the 10 year that I have owned this leaving Sta-Bil treated hi octane fuel sit in the tank and possibly carb (I tried to remember to run it out of fuel each time). That and the fact that the fuel tank rusted (rusty fuel def has been run through carb) and I don't have an ultrasonic carb cleaner I didn't know whether best to just replace the carb for no hassle future insurance.


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## sdowney717 (12 mo ago)

GY63 said:


> No fuel pump. I just drained more fuel out of the oil drain just now after draining completely last night so fuel is just running through the system. Yes, $179 pricey although worth it if I have to keep fiddling with this thing (like i damage something in the rebuild etc). Will turn off fuel, change oil twice, pull carb & check floats, needle & seat. I have definitely went 2 years or so over the 10 year that I have owned this leaving Sta-Bil treated hi octane fuel sit in the tank and possibly carb (I tried to remember to run it out of fuel each time). That and the fact that the fuel tank rusted (rusty fuel def has been run through carb) and I don't have an ultrasonic carb cleaner I didn't know whether best to just replace the carb for no hassle future insurance.


Does it have an oil filter? If so you need to change it.
Rust in the fuel? Well that can cause the needle valve in the carb to stick open and flood engine too. Might be carb is just dirty. Any bit of debris on the needle valve will keep it from shutting.

If you clean the carb float, bowl and needle, you can test the float and needle by blowing through the fuel inlet with your mouth. When carb facing direction so float is pressing on needle valve, will not flow air then with carb facing right way as bolted to motor, should get air flow.

You can also open up carb before you order a new carb, and see whats going on inside.


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## GY63 (10 mo ago)

sdowney717 said:


> Does it have an oil filter? If so you need to change it.
> Rust in the fuel? Well that can cause the needle valve in the carb to stick open and flood engine too. Might be carb is just dirty. Any bit of debris on the needle valve will keep it from shutting.
> 
> If you clean the carb float, bowl and needle, you can test the float and needle by blowing through the fuel inlet with your mouth. When carb facing direction so float is pressing on needle valve, will not flow air then with carb facing right way as bolted to motor, should get air flow.
> ...


Excellent advice. Will do first.


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## GY63 (10 mo ago)

GY63 said:


> Excellent advice. Will do first.


I cut very fine screen OEM fuel filter apart and it only had a minimal amount of rust debris on tank side and was totally clean on carb side so I though carb debris was not an issue - apparently it was/is.


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## GY63 (10 mo ago)

GY63 said:


> I cut very fine screen OEM fuel filter apart and it only had a minimal amount of rust debris on tank side and was totally clean on carb side so I though carb debris was not an issue - apparently it was/is.


I just purchased an PDF of the GENERAC XT/XT-EFI/XC/XG/GC/RS/HL SERVICE & REPAIR DIAGNOSTIC MANUAL FOR PORTABLE GENERATOR H2953 - So I don'd have to ask so many dumb questions and bother you guys.


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## Jackruf (Nov 4, 2012)

If you have NG, seriously consider converting to it. You won't have to concern yourself with bad gas in the future, not to mention worrying about finding an open gas station during a prolonged outage.


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## Jackruf (Nov 4, 2012)

GY63 said:


> I just purchased an PDF of the GENERAC XT/XT-EFI/XC/XG/GC/RS/HL SERVICE & REPAIR DIAGNOSTIC MANUAL FOR PORTABLE GENERATOR H2953 - So I don'd have to ask so many dumb questions and bother you guys.


The only dumb question is the one not asked...


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## GY63 (10 mo ago)

Jackruf said:


> The only dumb question is the one not asked...


I absolutely would. I have inefficient propane which I could still convert it to but i would gave to tap into my propane either in the house or tunnel under 50 feet of flatwork to route an auxiliary one from the tank. Its a darn good thought at this point...I just spent $300 on a fuel tank and possible $179 on a carb if I can't repair. Could pay a plumber for a propane tap...hmmm.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

i would do a fuel shut off valve inline with the fue line close to the carby.
low cost insurance at best.

the closer to the carb the better.
just make sure you can get to the valve.

on auto start gen units.they use an sol in the fuel line.
when the key power call for gen is off the fuel is off.

easy mod for an electric start unit!
just remember you have to have battery power to start after the mod.


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## GY63 (10 mo ago)

iowagold said:


> i would do a fuel shut off valve inline with the fue line close to the carby.
> low cost insurance at best.
> 
> the closer to the carb the better.
> ...


Have one in line close to carb - just forget to shut off sometimes. Nice set up on auto valve.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

always have a gen plan run check sheet laminated by the gen set with grease pen.

that way you have steps to turn on and shut down!
make it easy and clear instructions.
color code cables and switched etc with step numbers on the color dots.

it saves time and helps when panic sets in during a real bad event.

some handle stress better than others...
and if you get hurt during an event... step by step instructions is always a good plan!
make it so even the kids or other half can follow the plan!

and just like fire drills.
do generator drills!


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## GY63 (10 mo ago)

iowagold said:


> always have a gen plan run check sheet laminated by the gen set with grease pen.
> 
> that way you have steps to turn on and shut down!
> make it easy and clear instructions.
> ...


Great advice - I like organization


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

yup
do it in word..
refine it over a few test runs..
then print a few copies and take them to a copy place that does plastic lamination.
and use a chain with the instructions.
i place one copy by the breaker panel and one with the gen set and cords.

every system has different steps.
some are super easy to switch over.


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## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

iowagold said:


> yup
> do it in word..
> refine it over a few test runs..
> then print a few copies and take them to a copy place that does plastic lamination.
> ...


I subscribe to that idea.... but do keep it brief. The last thing anybody needs in an emergency is to read lengthy instructions.

I actually stole the idea of using aircraft preflight checklists. Very concise and straightforward. Just go through it line by line and you should be fine. I've went through it with my wife and adult son so they can set it up without me.

It's a work in progress and as such, gets updated as necessary...


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## sdowney717 (12 mo ago)

I really love my interlock in my main breaker house panel.
Most likely every panel maker offers an interlock kit. I put in a 60 amp breaker for the gen breaker. Of course the 8000 watt 13,500 watt surge Troybuilt with 15 hp Briggs engine only has a 30 amp breaker on its control panel, but it has always done very fine in any outages.
One box, no sub panel, entire house can run on the generator, including my heat pump.
I have never run the clothes dryer on the gen, I dont recall exactly, but I dont think I have run the oven either.

Thing is, 8000 watts is more like 33 amps, not 30 amps, so If you top out close to 8000 watt power use, wont that eventually trip a 30 amp breaker? So technically the extra watts are only available for a short time. I do know my Generac Maxforce 6500 watt gen 134HP engine stalls out when trying to start the heat pump


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## GY63 (10 mo ago)

sdowney717 said:


> I really love my interlock in my main breaker house panel.
> Most likely every panel maker offers an interlock kit. I put in a 60 amp breaker for the gen breaker. Of course the 8000 watt 13,500 watt surge Troybuilt with 15 hp Briggs engine only has a 30 amp breaker on its control panel, but it has always done very fine in any outages.
> One box, no sub panel, entire house can run on the generator, including my heat pump.
> I have never run the clothes dryer on the gen, I dont recall exactly, but I dont think I have run the oven either.
> ...


I have worked for United Airlines for 38 years so I am very familiar with pre-flight check lists. Very nice - Love the organization! 

My 10,000 watt Generac powered my entire house during our Houston Texas snow storm (was surreal) two years ago. Same 30 amp Gen breaker. 

RUST - One other side note...I have had steel fuel tanks on Honda GX Engines not rust out in 15 years no matter the fuel level. This garbage steel, unlined, untreated Generac tank should not be rusting out this easy. I live in the ultra humid Houston Texas area. I completely drained the tank as I didn't want 10 gallons of bad treated fuel to dispose of every 2 years. Stored in an insulated sometimes air-conditioned garage. I was told the tank rusted BECAUSE I kept it empty from condensation. A Generac tech rep told me via email in my climate, to store the generator completely fuel of fuel. Now I know why so many set ups use a plastic fuel tank.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

OrlyP said:


> I subscribe to that idea.... but do keep it brief. The last thing anybody needs in an emergency is to read lengthy instructions.
> 
> I actually stole the idea of using aircraft preflight checklists. Very concise and straightforward. Just go through it line by line and you should be fine. I've went through it with my wife and adult son so they can set it up without me.
> 
> ...


did you see the "remove for flite" exhaust plugs over on amazon!
kinda cool i think they were for ultra lites.
you missed the clear prop call... lol
maybe "hands of any thing metal" as a call during start up?

that brings up a thing...
so how many test metal with the back of their hand when on gen set?
that hot skin or ground issue thing.
always a great idea when connection to a camper!
you never know when a varmint will short power to the chassis on a gen or house wiring!

stay safe out there!


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## sdowney717 (12 mo ago)

GY63 said:


> I have worked for United Airlines for 38 years so I am very familiar with pre-flight check lists. Very nice - Love the organization!
> 
> My 10,000 watt Generac powered my entire house during our Houston Texas snow storm (was surreal) two years ago. Same 30 amp Gen breaker.
> 
> RUST - One other side note...I have had steel fuel tanks on Honda GX Engines not rust out in 15 years no matter the fuel level. This garbage steel, unlined, untreated Generac tank should not be rusting out this easy. I live in the ultra humid Houston Texas area. I completely drained the tank as I didn't want 10 gallons of bad treated fuel to dispose of every 2 years. Stored in an insulated sometimes air-conditioned garage. I was told the tank rusted BECAUSE I kept it empty from condensation. A Generac tech rep told me via email in my climate, to store the generator completely fuel of fuel. Now I know why so many set ups use a plastic fuel tank.


Yes, lousy uncoated metal tanks, they could coat them with a plastic, like a quality Wavian steel Jerry Can, for what pennies? And solve a lot of future problem. Even full of gas, a tank can corrode if it is E10 gas.
If you could close the vent on an emptied steel fuel tank, it wont be breathing in water in the air and it wont rust.
But they dont allow for it as their caps are all vented to the air. And E10 loves to absorb water from the air.
Now consider on a car, it uses a tank cap with a VOPR 2 way valve. (vapor over pressure release valve) Essentially a closed system unless fuel is drawn from tank, or the pressure changes greater than 2 PSI with the outside air pressure, they are setup at 2 PSI.
For marine use they are setup about 3/4 - 1 PSI as the tanks are huge and the weight pressure of gas in a huge tank even at 3/4 PSI is a lot. So they dont vent unless the barmoeter changes. Only found in EPA compliant modern boats.


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## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

Has anyone considered dropping bags of desiccants in the empty tank? Assuming you find some that could fit in the hole.... maybe string them along so it'll be easy to extract later.


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## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

iowagold said:


> did you see the "remove for flite" exhaust plugs over on amazon!
> kinda cool i think they were for ultra lites.
> you missed the clear prop call... lol
> maybe "hands of any thing metal" as a call during start up?
> ...


You bring up a dang good point. lol

They know well enough not to touch anything else beyond those I have in the checklist. They don't even have to check the oil as I do that during the monthly exercise.


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## GY63 (10 mo ago)

I didn't want the forum to think I was ungrateful since I received my Generac Carb troubleshooting solution. I purchased an open box Vevor Ultrasonic Cleaner for $38 and have not gotten around to pulling the carb yet. I will report on my success when I get it running. Thanks again for all of the great help.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

any time.
always ultrasonic clean out side and away from anything...
a picnic table works well!

if the ultrasonic cavity is a 10L or larger.
i use water in the ultrasonic unit.
and a LARGE pnut butter jar that is super clean.
think sams club jar... lol!
and then unleaded gasoline for the solvent..
change out the unleaded gasoline or filter it with a coffee filter if the parts are real dirty.

and i do pre soak and post soak the carb in berryman solvent.
pm if you need links to ultrasonic clean units or the solvents that work well for us.
i ran 2 carbs this am in the ultrasonic unit.
it sure does a nice job!
as long as the metal is not ate up it works real good!

if ethanol has ate up the old carb....
it is cheaper on time spent to replace the carb.


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