# Honda EU300is Trouble Starting



## country1 (Sep 18, 2015)

Ive got a *Honda EU3000is* that will not completely start. 
The only way it will run, is on full choke, and it will only run for a short time. The fuel is fairly new, (I added some Sea Foam) I've drained the carb bowl and everything looks good (no water). Spark plug is OK.
The fuel tank is a little rusty, (last owner would store the tank empty)
But I have another with the same amount of rust and it runs like a champ.
I noticed that the green paper gasket between the air box and the carb was a little torn, and am going to replace that to see if it helps. Is there an idler adjustment on the carb somewhere? Thinking of just getting a new tank and carb for it, but trying not to put more money into it than I already have.
I'd appreciate any help on getting this thing running like it should. 
Thanks.


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## Waypoint (Jan 28, 2014)

It runs while choked, which typically indicates the carb is gunked. Main jet and/or emulsion tube is obstructed with sediment, varnish, or corrosion. Time to pull the carb and dissassemble for inspection.

On the EU3000 I've been able to remove just the bowl for inspection, with it off you'll be able to see what happened.


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## country1 (Sep 18, 2015)

I've changed the oil, put some synthetic in.
Pulled the carb and cleaned it, cleaned the jet and the deal under it.
Cleaned the sediment cup, and cleaned the spark arrester.
I drained the gas tank and am going to use fresh gas.
What is the black plastic screw on the side of the carb for?
Idle screw? What is it supposed to be set to? Also there is a another 
Little screw with a spring on it, does it matter if it's up or down?
If this doesn't work, I don't know what will.
Thanks for helping.


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## Waypoint (Jan 28, 2014)

I'll take a pop at helping...

If you only cleaned the main jet, and didn't drop the emulsion tube (located above the main jet) to clean every hole, you'll want to do that before reassembling.

The black plastic screw is the throttle stop screw. I generally bring this to contact w/ the throttle arm plus 1/4 turn as a starting point.

The smaller needle with spring and cap is the Pilot Screw. The manual says 1 turn out from seated (gently!) position as the starting point. I leave the limiter cap off until it's fine tuned with the engine running at operating temp, then install the limiter cap mid-way between the limiter castings using Loctite red to hold it on.


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## country1 (Sep 18, 2015)

Thanks for your help Waypoint! I appreciate it.

I cleaned the emulsion tube and jet with carb cleaner
and compressed air.
I'm going to replace the fuel and 
the damaged gaskets and set the throttle stop
and pilot screws to the recommended settings.
I'll let you know how it turns out.


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## Waypoint (Jan 28, 2014)

If you got all the little holes around the circumference of the emulsion tube clean, and the main jet is installed properly (some have a rubber o-ring that will tear on installation if it's not oiled a bit) you should have a good outcome.

What was the carb's condition when you disassembled it? Any visible gunk in there?


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## country1 (Sep 18, 2015)

Yes, the emulsion tube and jet were cleaned well and installed correctly.

There was a little bit of gunk inside the bowl, but mostly, it was fairly clean. I'm guessing that the problem is with the fuel, and the gasket. I learned there is also a "pilot jet" that needs cleaning underneath the throttle stop screw, so that will happen and I'm hoping for good results.

Thanks again for your help.


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## Waypoint (Jan 28, 2014)

You're definitely being thorough, if you're careful to get the gasket surfaces clean and torque the mounting bolts properly you should have a good outcome. Looking forward to hearing how it goes!


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## country1 (Sep 18, 2015)

*Almost There*

I've got everything cleaned and changed out with fresh fuel. But it's only running on choke. I'm guessing it's the air screw.

I'm guessing i need to turn it out for more air to mix with the fuel? 
the throttle stop screw is set in contact plus one turn in, i believe.

Let me know your thoughts on this. Thanks.

Here's what I've done to the generator to this point.

Changed Oil (Synthetic)
Cleaned Sediment Bowl and Filter
Cleaned Carburetor (Emulsion Tube, Pilot Jet and Main Jet included)
Cleaned the Spark Arrester
Replaced the Air Filter, and Air Filter and Carburetor Gaskets
Drained all of the fuel and added fresh fuel.


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## Waypoint (Jan 28, 2014)

If it only runs w/ the choke set, there's too much air in the mix already. Turn the needle inward in 1/4 turn increments and re-test.

If all else fails it might be best to just get a replacement carburetor.


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## country1 (Sep 18, 2015)

Ok. Thank you. I'll do that on my weekend and let ya know how it goes. 
I appreciate your help.


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## Waypoint (Jan 28, 2014)

One other thought...if the o-ring on the pilot jet (located under the plastic throttle stop screw) isn't sealing perfectly it will cause the engine to run lean. You might remove and inspect it, and re-install with a film of light grease instead of motor oil to improve the seal.

I had this problem with a Kipor knockoff of the Honda eu2000i a few years ago, the thing wanted to run lean no matter what I did. Grease on the o-ring fixed it long enough to get through the power outage so we could buy a replacement pilot jet w/ o-ring.


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## xyobgyn (Nov 28, 2019)

There is a fuel filter hidden in the fuel valve. 10mm socket/wrench to remove the bottom of the valve. The O-ring in there may need to be replaced, so consider that if you open this, you may not be able to re-seal it properly. The filter could be removed, gutted to get rid of the filter and make it free-flow, and replaced. An inline filter could then be put on the short fuel hose from valve to carb. Easier and cheaper to service in the future.

The filter in the valve cup is about $25 on Amazon if you want everything restored to OEM.

There is also a "strainer" with its own O-ring between the valve, and poking up into the fuel tank. This becomes delicate with age, and can certainly get obstructed with debris or ethanol gunk too. Also not inexpensive. Adding up the cost of a new strainer (comes with its O-ring) valve filter and its O ring.... it was cheaper to get it all new as a package and includes a new valve. (about $45)

If I suspect failure of these parts again, I'm going to bypass the OEM screen and filter, and put an inline one in.

Yeah, I know, 4 years late. But someone reading up on EU3000is may appreciate it.


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