# Powerhorse inverter 7500



## JohnNY (Apr 27, 2020)

I have a friend looking at the Powerhorse 7500 from Northern Tool item# 74006. Any info good or bad? Any real world use opinions would be better.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

the honda eu7000is is a real work horse.
and we have lots of them in the fleet working perfect!
and yes they run well on ng with the proper kit

these Powerhorse 7500 look ok.....
but they are 3 k in price....

4449.00 right now for the 7000is, 1450.00 more and worth it!
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200640183_200640183


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## JohnNY (Apr 27, 2020)

iowagold said:


> the honda eu7000is is a real work horse.
> and we have lots of them in the fleet working perfect!
> and yes they run well on ng with the proper kit
> 
> ...


Yes they are much better and not that much more when you are in that price range. BUT you cant obtain a Honda for anything these days with all the storms


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

you have to know a guy!
lol
yea ours have been on the slow boat for 4 months.
the production is happening.
it is just a large long line for the 2021 version.
the first batch of 20 arrived today here.
all sold, going to ak pipe line.
after we get them all modified.


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

I contemplated the powerhorse 7500 but decided it was too expensive of a risk, and went with an EU7000... I’m very happy with my eu7000.


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## jkingrph (Sep 18, 2017)

About 16-17 years ago when I was looking at a generator, I asked the maintance director at the hospital where we worked and he said without a doubt, get a Honda, All the construction people use them and they work. I did and have never had any problems.


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## JohnNY (Apr 27, 2020)

I know theres no doubt about the quality of the honda generator. Im asking about real world experience on the Powerhorse and if anyone knows how well the run/last/sound ect.


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

I’ve come across a few northern tools generators but they have all been North Star units. On paper the powerhouse units look great, lower cost, reliable chonda engines and an advertised <5% THD. Id like to get my hands on one to measure the waveform...

As for that big 7500watt inverter unit. It’s bigger and heavier then the eu7000 but looks more roomy inside the enclosure for maintenance. I’ve read the few reviews on the website and no one has flamed it for being problematic... maybe you can be the first on the forum to review one...


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

just use magnetic drain plug and dip stick is the best advice on any gen set!
click here for the magnets for oil pages
they work! 
even on units with spin oil filters!

northern tools and equipment are hand picked.
and are pretty ok stuff.
for a second choice to a real honda gen set, it is a good runner up.

amen on the wave form!
we have looked... it is ok.. but not a honda wave form! GRIN!
at least on the units we have had in the repair shop.
some horrible hash in some of the low cost inverter gens... HF is one of them.... yuck!!

we test and run up all of the gens that come through the door as a base line
for each gen.
so we have numbers for every clients gen as a health report.
just part of the repair service thing in my book.
if you have a health base line you know when it is sick!!


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## JohnNY (Apr 27, 2020)

Thanks for the info and advise guys. My friend is going to order it. I will go over and try to put together a review for it for sure.


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## jkingrph (Sep 18, 2017)

I like the idea of the magnetic drain plug, but I have the Fumoto drain valves installed, even on my truck.





Buy Fumoto® Valve Online | Replace Oil Drain Plug


By simply replacing your stock oil drain plug, you can drain your engine oil without tools or mess. Trusted by over 10 million satisfied customers, the original Fumoto Engine Oil Drain Valve continues to offer individuals, truck owners, marine engine mechanics, and industrial engine maintenance...




www.fumotooildrainvalve.com




On my generator I have an optional nipple, then a piece of hose attached so when I drain the oil it drains away from the frame, into a can, so I have no mess. The way the generator/engine is made, with a plain drain plug oil runs all over the frame and is a mess to clean up, now it's totally clean. 
I did order a couple of the magnets for the spin on filters, thanks for that info. The more I read here the more I learn!


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

we use the drainzit hoses on the larger equipment
and the gx engines in honda. cool for the power washer units!
cool for skid loaders and other gear where the oil drain can be a pain!
click here for the oil magnets and drainzit page


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## tabora (Sep 6, 2018)

If you need something even larger, just ran across this one:





Amazon.com : A-iPower SUA8000i 8000 Watt Portable Inverter Generator, for Sensitive Equipment : Garden & Outdoor


Amazon.com : A-iPower SUA8000i 8000 Watt Portable Inverter Generator, for Sensitive Equipment : Garden & Outdoor



www.amazon.com


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## JohnNY (Apr 27, 2020)

Well, I got my buddy an EU7000i. He cant believe how quiet it is. Any tips for break-in and such?


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## JohnNY (Apr 27, 2020)

tabora said:


> If you need something even larger, just ran across this one:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Not a bad price either. The one review seams like he got a lemon


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

JohnNY said:


> Well, I got my buddy an EU7000i. He cant believe how quiet it is. Any tips for break-in and such?


well drain plug magnet, dip stick magnet.
change the oil every 50 hours for the first 200 hours.

run on no ethanol fuel if you can get it.
get a cover for the gen when it is not in use.

*click here for the eu7000is page*

also look in to the tri fuel kit!
they rock!
natural gas and lp added to a great gen set!
they are still super quiet on NG!
and the best thing is you do not have to store fuel.
and you still have the option for LP and gasoline!

I just re vamped one of the units here with a trifuel kit.
and added a quick coupler to the front panel.
it makes for a nice install on a unit that will be on construction sites as well.
and did the 50 amp twist lock mod as well.

if he does not need the 240 volt output run it in the 120 volt mode.
make sure it is in the 120 volt mode before starting the gen set.
this will insure you get the full 47 amps worth of power out of the gen set when you do the 50 amp modification.


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## lawdawg1231 (Jan 22, 2021)

JohnNY said:


> I know theres no doubt about the quality of the honda generator. Im asking about real world experience on the Powerhorse and if anyone knows how well the run/last/sound ect.


I know this replies a bit late but here you go. I've owned the 7500i for a yr with no issues, currently at about 800hrs on the unit. I use it to power my 5th wheel via 50a service to run dual AC etc and it is super quiet, similar dB rating to the Honda. This genset has been solid from day 1, I've had zero issues. A friend of mine who works for Honda actually gave me a hard time for not buying the EU7k but in the end admitted the Powerhorse is a solid unit and has provided stiff competition for Honda. If I have a criticism its the lack of fuel injection because you could likely get a little better fuel economy w/FI, the lack of accessories like an exhaust kit and the documentation isn't the greatest. The parallel kit works well and a pair of these powered a large house boat (residential AC's etc) non-stop for a week in substantial heat without missing a beat. Hope the insight is helpful even if a bit late.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

lawdawg1231 said:


> I know this replies a bit late but here you go. I've owned the 7500i for a yr with no issues, currently at about 800hrs on the unit. I use it to power my 5th wheel via 50a service to run dual AC etc and it is super quiet, similar dB rating to the Honda. This genset has been solid from day 1, I've had zero issues. A friend of mine who works for Honda actually gave me a hard time for not buying the EU7k but in the end admitted the Powerhorse is a solid unit and has provided stiff competition for Honda. If I have a criticism its the lack of fuel injection because you could likely get a little better fuel economy w/FI, the lack of accessories like an exhaust kit and the documentation isn't the greatest. The parallel kit works well and a pair of these powered a large house boat (residential AC's etc) non-stop for a week in substantial heat without missing a beat. Hope the insight is helpful even if a bit late.


the honda is way better on fuel for sure!


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## lawdawg1231 (Jan 22, 2021)

iowagold said:


> the honda is way better on fuel for sure!


Not as dramatic as you might expect, I have two friends with EU7k's and they only get 1-2hrs more runtime at best with similar (lighter) load. Not having to worry about carb draining, varnishing over time etc is an important piece though.


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## Fig (Mar 16, 2021)

Apologies for bringing an old thread back, but how is the Powerhorse holding up now? I am considering getting 2 eu7000's with the parallel setup, but I cannot ignore the savings if I went with 2 of the 7500 Powerhorse. I've had Honda's before, never had an issue, but again with buying 2, I am looking at almost $11K OTD vs a bit under $6500 OTD. And last time I used my current gen was the big freeze here in Houston a year ago. I may use it once a year. (I live in a very reliable, stable power grid area) Hard to justify the added cost for something that may go 2 years without use, but yet when you need it, it NEEDS to work.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

the honda is better money spent..
it holds resale value over time!

and they are quiet!


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## Kraig (6 mo ago)

I'm going to be the next person to apologize for bringing an old thread back to life. I own two Powerhorse 7500i generators and have extensive experience with them. I am, unfortunately, having an issue with both units. Not sure what the issue is but I'm working to diagnose it. Both units were purchased back in May and August of 2020. Both have around 1300-1400 hours. I purchased one in August, then I just purchased the other one last week used. It was purchased in May of 2020. 

Purchased New in August 2020 Unit:
The one I purchased new is having an issue. Sometimes it just shuts down when it's hot out. When it does this the aluminum shroud around the coil (alternator) is super hot! Can't even touch it. I have to wait hours for it to cool down and then it fires right back up. Sometimes it runs great and the aluninum shroud over the alternator doesn't get all that hot. Warm but not hot. Then when it does shut down that shroud is HOT. I'm guessing there's a temp sensor that is shutting down the unit. I was thinking maybe it's not getting enough air flow and there could be a blockage. I have not torn into that one yet....

Purchased last week used (It was purchased new in May of 2020 by a friend):
This unit has been having a similar issue. It runs great at times running both a/c's in a 5th wheel camper. Then some days it just keeps dying. That owner decided to get rid of it so I picked it up. I ran it this last weekend. The first day it ran great. The second day it died on me. I checked the aluminum shroud and it was HOT. So, I'm assuming this unit is experiencing the same issue, a temp sensor is shutting it down. I let it cool for 3-4 hours. Went to start it and it fired right up! This is indicating to me it's a heat issue and the electronics are shutting it down. I am assuming that there may be a clog somewhere in the cooling airflow. 

So, today I removed the back plastic shroud and then the metal shroud around the muffler to find the metal screen at the bottom blocked by tree cotton over about 60% of that screen that allows the heat to blow out. I then tore into the front panel and got down to the metal air flow fins of the inverter unit. I cannot see any issues as far as dirt or any blockage. 

I then looked over the unit to understand how it all works with the air flow. In the back (exhaust end) and under the metal shroud that encloses the muffler and sound dampens it I noticed something. First of all the metal shroud has sound dampening material on the inside of the shroud. Under that shroud is the muffler. Then behind the muffler there are two opening for air flow. The first is in the upper right hand side of the back end. This air flow goes across the fins on the piston of the engine. Makes sense. Then in the very bottom to the left there is a small opening for more air flow. Both of these air flow areas get their air flow from the fan on the alternator. The alternator sucks in air from the bottom of the unit at the front. It sucks that air up and across the aluminum fins on the inverter. Then the air goes through the fan, across the alternator, across under and around the engine then out and across the muffler and then it exits at the bottom of the metal shroud where the muffler exhausts as well. 

Something that I have always noticed about the Honda generators, the 3000 and the 7000, is that they exhaust out the top back. The Powerhorse exhausts out the bottom. However, before it can exit the Powerhorse the heat is forced down to the opening at the bottom of the metal shroud on the back. Now, I'm no engineer but I do know that heat rises. Wouldn't it make sense to exhaust that heat out the top through a larger opening rather than force it down through a somewhat smaller opening? I'm wondering if this is contributing to the heating issues I am having with two separate units. I know Honda has patents that help them protect their design, especially in key areas that make a unit work or not work. I'm wondering if Honda has a patent on their exhaust design. If they do have a patent on exhausting heat out the top then that would force Powerhorse to run the design they did. I mean, after taking the back apart it makes no sense NOT to put an exhaust port for heat out the top of the big metal shroud that is enclosing all the heat from the engine. Seems logical to allow heat to exit the top. 

Since the Powerhorse has been out for a while and many, like myself, have some experience with these units, is anyone else experiencing this issue? And if so, have you been able to determine the cause?


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## Kraig (6 mo ago)

On another note and one that addresses the cost of the Powerhorse and the Honda. Honda's are now pushing $6k and the Powerhorse is priced at $2,499. Big difference especially if it will only be used every once in a while. I'm not saying Honda is bad, I'd love to have an EU7000 but we like saving dollars if it makes sense to do so. I'm not looking for a debate, I agree that the Honda is superior in design and dependability but I will say, the Powerhorse is a very nice generator and it is built well. I have had zero issues with the unit I purchased new until recently. The used unit I purchased was abused. The last owner did an enclosure on the exhaust and heat and ended up melting the plastic back panel. I think with more knowledge on how to exhaust the heat you can get a very solid generator for $2500.


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## tabora (Sep 6, 2018)

Kraig said:


> Honda's are now pushing $6k


Here in New England, they are readily available new for less than $5K... $4,699.00 in Naples, Maine at Aubuchon Hardware today.


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## Kraig (6 mo ago)

tabora said:


> Here in New England, they are readily available new for less than $5K... $4,699.00 in Naples, Maine at Aubuchon Hardware today.


You're very lucky. Here they are going for around $5,500 plus taxes.


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## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

Kraig said:


> I'm going to be the next person to apologize for bringing an old thread back to life. I own two Powerhorse 7500i generators and have extensive experience with them. I am, unfortunately, having an issue with both units. Not sure what the issue is but I'm working to diagnose it. Both units were purchased back in May and August of 2020. Both have around 1300-1400 hours. I purchased one in August, then I just purchased the other one last week used. It was purchased in May of 2020.
> 
> Purchased New in August 2020 Unit:
> The one I purchased new is having an issue. Sometimes it just shuts down when it's hot out. When it does this the aluminum shroud around the coil (alternator) is super hot! Can't even touch it. I have to wait hours for it to cool down and then it fires right back up. Sometimes it runs great and the aluninum shroud over the alternator doesn't get all that hot. Warm but not hot. Then when it does shut down that shroud is HOT. I'm guessing there's a temp sensor that is shutting down the unit. I was thinking maybe it's not getting enough air flow and there could be a blockage. I have not torn into that one yet....
> ...


I don't think patents still cover where the hot air and exhaust gas comes out of a generator. If any, it can just be attributed to what the manufacturer want to achieve in their design, for better or for worse.

Also, hot air will go wherever you want it to go. Since the engine is forced-air cooled, it will expel the heat wherever the ducting and vents take it.... down the path of least resistance.

The only time the "hot air goes up" statement holds true is immediately after shutting down the generator. The engine, still heat-soaked has nothing to push air upon itself. Hot air then tends to go up and collect at the top of the enclosure to slowly dissipate.


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