# Honda EB5000X Engine Issues



## Inno (Jul 14, 2020)

Hi all, new user here but certainly not new to small engine repair. I have a EB5000X generator that was given to me a few years back and I have just been storing it until I had time to look at it. It was used for primary power at a cabin for a number of years so it's definitely got some hours on it. 
The first thing I need to do is determine if it's even viable to repair and being as how it's a Honda, there doesn't seem to be a whole lot of info online beyond simple carb cleaning and replacement. 
So it will start but will not reach full operating RPM. In fact it doesn't seem much more than maybe a high idle. It also has the shakes.....From that I can safely assume something internal. I have gone as far as removing the valve cover and checking the gap etc. but I really didn't suspect that would change anything. I guess my question is, without even knowing if it puts out any power, how worthwhile is this thing? I am currently using an older 3500 watt Honda for power outages just to keep things like the sump pump working but it doesn't have enough grunt for say the well pump. 
My thought is to start tearing it down and checking for obvious damage and measuring all the parts to see if it's just plum worn out or not. Any other thoughts?


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## Inno (Jul 14, 2020)

Oh, I should probably add, I do have the shop manual for it.


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## Inno (Jul 14, 2020)

Tore it down this evening. Found both pushrods are bent. I also see discoloration on the crankshaft around the connecting rod which I think would indicate overheating.


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## Dutchy491 (Sep 18, 2019)

Sounds to me that the unit was not maintained with regular oil changes. It would probably have a low oil shutoff switch but if it was run for many many many hours without an oil change or on an auto type engine oil this is the result that one could see. All the more reason that I use AMSOIL small engine oil, and also do regular oil changes. However, if I ever got in a situation where I couldn't keep up with fresh oil this will give me a safety margin until I can. This abused genny might be too far gone to save. Keep us posted, Dutchy 





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## Inno (Jul 14, 2020)

There is no galling on any of the contact points so I don't suspect a dirty oil issue. In fact, all the parts are in really good shape. I have just received a gasket set, push rods, piston rings (might as well while I'm in there) and a replacement head, just because it was a much easier option than rebuilding the original one. Within a few days I'll know if I wasted my time and money or not. I'll report back with the results.


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## Dutchy491 (Sep 18, 2019)

Cool. I wonder if it tipped over while running and hydro-locked... Dutchy


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## Inno (Jul 14, 2020)

Hydro lock.........never considered that.


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## tim4 (Jul 6, 2014)

Also make sure the flywheel is not out of balance.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

yea it takes a lot to bend the push rods...
hydro lock at full rpm...
check the flywheel key...
rare thing on a honda engine for sure.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

snap a pix of that discoloring so we can see what you are seeing...


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## Inno (Jul 14, 2020)

I will get some pix this evening. I am actually wondering if it might be some short of hardening or tempering. I will also look at the flywheel and key. I agree, it does seem strange for a Honda


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## Inno (Jul 14, 2020)




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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

they heat treat the cranks.
it looks like heat treat marks or coloring.
that is normal, they just do not shot blast the color off after the treatment.
you should be ok!


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

ok yea check for slop or play at the crank and piston on the connecting rod.
watch your time marks when you go back together.
did the piston top look ok as well as the rings?


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## Inno (Jul 14, 2020)

Update.......put it all back together, with the assumption that it was from heat treating. Everything else looked too good to have any major issues. It started easily, tried to come up to operating RPM but struggled. Seemed like it was puffing, not backfiring, but puffing back through the carb like maybe exhaust? Finally put 2 and 2 together..........it would do something like this, and possibly bend push rods if..........oh I don't know, the exhaust was plugged! Took the muffler off, gave it a tug and it came right up to speed.......actually over speed 'cause I think I messed up the governor rod/lever inside the crank case.........I think I can get to that without a full disassembly of the engine. Right now I'm very happy to have found what I did and a little annoyed that I hadn't figured it out before a complete teardown. On a lighter note, at least now it's been refreshed and should last many more years.......oh, and it makes power as well so with a little more work I'll have a nice generator.


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## Dutchy491 (Sep 18, 2019)

Sweeeeett!!!


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## Inno (Jul 14, 2020)

So, went a couple rounds with the governor and figured out that somehow the arm got slightly bent inside so I got that straightened out. Governor is a bit fiddly but got that working properly as well. Something must have happened between my first run and putting it back together because I had to flash the field winding to get it to make any power. Once it started making power though, it started making some noises, almost like a ticking/rubbing/.......not too sure how to describe it. Looks like the end of the rotor shaft is worn and there's some play between it and the bearing so not out of the woods yet. I'll have to evaluate it further and see if I can find a machine shop that can turn it down and get me an undersized bearing. Baby steps...more to come.


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## Inno (Jul 14, 2020)

I think this picture shows the issue pretty well. The ID of the bearing is supposed to be 20mm, it's enlarged to 20.64mm. The shaft I would assume should be ever so slightly smaller than that.......it measures anywhere from 19.1mm to 19.35mm.....I have emailed a company that repairs electric motors and generators to see what the prognosis might be.


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## Inno (Jul 14, 2020)

Quick and possibly the final update. Took the rotor off and took it to a machine shop. They were able to build up the shaft with weld and turn it back down to size and sell me a new bearing.......after tax it was just under $140. I was pretty happy with that. Put it all back together, put a load on it and adjusted running RPM and idle RPM. Then I double checked for correct frequency and it all looked good. So then I ran my garage and the wife's horse barn with it including a couple of large fans in the barn and all my lights and air conditioning in the shop, a heat gun plugged in for good measure. It handled everything very nicely. All that is left is to clean out the gas tank, it's a bit rusty from sitting. I just hung an umbilical tank as I like to call it on.......it's a tank from an old snow blower. Oh, and I'm planning on adding some wheels as well. But for now, I think that's a wrap!


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## Dutchy491 (Sep 18, 2019)

Very nice! Take good care of it and hopefully it should last a loong time. Dutchy


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

they make that tank coating they use on bike and hot rod fuel tanks that works ok... 
they use acid to etch the tank clean.
any good radiator shop should be able to do it if you do not want to mess with it your self..


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## Inno (Jul 14, 2020)

I cleaned the tank out this evening. Dropped a couple of pieces of chain in and sent it for a ride in the cement mixer......kinda ******* McGuyverish I guess but it worked to loosen up any loose gunk. Then I drained it and took the pressure washer to it. Then dropped chains back in with water and a good amount of Dawn dishsoap then back to the cement mixer. Once done there I rinsed it a good few times with the pressure washer. Then drained it as best I could and stuck a heat gun in it until completely dry. It looks pretty good after all that. I will see how it holds up and consider Por-15 or something like that. I have an old tractor that someone used it on and I'm not sure if they did something wrong but it started flaking off and for a couple of years I had to pull off the sediment bowl on a regular basis to clean it out. I think if I use it regularly, and keep fresh gas in it, it should be ok.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

por will break down in gasoline.
at least I have never had any luck with the por 15 fuel tank kit. darn fuel here is too hot for it...

Damon Industries Red-Kote Fuel Tank Liner 
that stuff works ok 33.00 for the small can.
it is also in the gallon can for large tanks.

also try this stuff
Eastwood Anti Rust Gas Tank Sealer Kits for Cycles with Instructions
the classic car hot rod guys and the davidson bike guys swear by eastwood.


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## Inno (Jul 14, 2020)

Thanks, I will check those out.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

the tank metal has to be super clean as in no oil or gas film..
that is why they acid etch it..

before all of the crazy stuff i would to have said to use 99% booze to dry out the oil..
now days finding any is tricky...

acetone works well.
make sure you glove up for it.

and yes it eats any plastic too.


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