# Honda EU2200i Pair in Parallel - Companion or Not?



## kiteboarder

Hi, I'm new here. In light of the recent blackouts in California due to all the fires I went and bought a pair of Honda 2200i generators to run in parallel with the intention of powering my entire house. I don't have electric heaters, or electric furnaces or anything like that. The stove is gas, the water heater is gas, I have a wood stove and the furnaces are gas. Electrically, I'm only powering the fridge, lights and the relay for the gas stove. The fridge uses between 12-15A, so in reality I do need two of these things to get enough power for the house.

We had a blackout the other day, but I ran only one of the generators, just for the fridge. I haven't opened the other one and I was thinking about taking it back and exchanging for the Companion unit. The reason being, for now I'm running extension cords... so using two identical generators is fine. But eventually I plan to install a transfer switch and run straight into the house. For that, it's better to have the 2200i + 2200i Companion, with the parallel cords, since the Companion unit allows for a single 30A plug out. Otherwise, according to Honda, I have to balance two 15A cords... one for each side.

I've seen people that have made custom harnesses to run two identical 2200i's into a junction box in parallel and from there, a 30A out into the transfer switch. With a little research, I could build that. But given I haven't opened one of the boxes yet, I think I'm better off just exchanging it and getting the Companion unit.

What do you guys suggest? Is there a benefit in having the two identical units that I'm not seeing? Or is it clearly better to have the 2200i + 2200i Companion?


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## Dutchy491

My understanding is that you need the Companion model to be able to twin to another eu2200 (or some eu2000). I would exchange the regular 2200 for the Companion model, especially since you have one in an unopened box to trade in. Also get the cables required to link the two Inverters. My two cents. Dutchy


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## tabora

I guess I'm not understanding how you're planning to connect 2 120V generators (parallel or not) to a 240V residential panel. The two 120V legs in the panel are 180 degrees out of phase. Paralleling 2 EU2200s for a 120V 30A RV input is one thing, but you'll need to do a 120V transfer switch sub panel for only your critical items in order to use the 120V output in a typical house scenario: http://www.steadypower.com/products.php?product=Reliance-306A1-Indoor-Transfer-Switch-%2830A%252d120V%29
You can't do a "whole house" transfer switch.


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## RedOctobyr

I have a pair of EU2000i, set up for parallel operation. I bought a Harbor Freight parallel kit, it plugs into each generator (using the individual plug-in connectors), and provides a 30A outlet receptacle.

https://www.harborfreight.com/RV-Re...r-Predator-2000-Inverter-Generator-62564.html

It fit my Hondas without issue. I can't speak to the newer 2200i, but it may still be a worthwhile option.

The benefit to me is I was able to buy used "normal" units, which are more common than Companions. And each can be used (or sold) individually, without issue.


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## captaindomon

They are the exact same generator. If you look at the wiring diagrams, the only difference is that one has the 30 amp plug and one has the 12v board and plug. Both of them have the ability to pair with another one. The generator that comes online first acts as the “Master” for the frequency, and the generator that comes on second acts as the “slave” for the frequency and matches the master. But either of them can be started first. All the sync kits do is connect the hot, ground, and neutral of both generators together, and the companion one has the higher rated 30 amp plug.
So you can use two companions, two non-companions, or one companion and one non-companion and they will pair just fine, then it’s just a question of how you want to plug things in.


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## captaindomon

RedOctobyr said:


> I have a pair of EU2000i, set up for parallel operation. I bought a Harbor Freight parallel kit, it plugs into each generator (using the individual plug-in connectors), and provides a 30A outlet receptacle.
> 
> https://www.harborfreight.com/RV-Re...r-Predator-2000-Inverter-Generator-62564.html
> 
> It fit my Hondas without issue. I can't speak to the newer 2200i, but it may still be a worthwhile option.
> 
> The benefit to me is I was able to buy used "normal" units, which are more common than Companions. And each can be used (or sold) individually, without issue.


This kit would work fine for two 2200s IMHO. Or you could build your own similar thing.


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## xyobgyn

*Pairing up EU2200*

I just bought a pair of 2200 units, and plan to use them to power my RV-Car Hauler project.

The standard plugs on the Non Companion model, and the standard plug on the Companion model are both fused with a 20 amp breaker. 

The 30 amp plug, as well as the Parallel ports on both units are not run through a breaker (at all). This allows the factory recommended pairing to actually exceed 30 amps transiently without tripping a breaker. If you use the HF unit, you will be limited to 30 amps unnecessarily actually.

I find this aspect interesting, that the pair of 2200 can kick out 37 amps transiently, so Honda DOESN'T fuse the "30 amp" plug on the companion. 

Since my RV has a fuse box, I will simply use a parallel plug kit off amazon to tie my two non-companion units together, and not be limited to 30 amps either.
(Atima Generator Extension Power Cord Cable AGC103 Parallel Kit)
By the way: As I set this up, I have also bought a pair of hour meters to install on the units, ones triggered by 12V, not induction of spark plug wire and not relying on an internal battery in the meter. This will allow for proper maintenance.
(Searon DC 12V 24V 36V 48V 60V 72V Mechanical Engine Hour Meter Generator Hourmeter 6-80 Volt)

Honda once sold a Honda labelled box similar to the HF one mentioned, but UL approval was available only if they also approved the gensets (logical) but Honda didn't want to go that route. So Gen Tran still makes a clone of this, not labelled Honda, but Honda only sells the parallel wire sets, not a full kit.

Once nice tip for any of the parrallel kits is that the ground lead that has to be fastened to the front panel is tied to the ground of the standard plugs. So, to keep things easy and plug-n-play quickly, you can put that green lead into a standard plug using JUST the ground wire, and plug it into one of the two outlets to make taking the wire harness on and off very simple. 

Amazon Wire Harness to Plug: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074J6SW9H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Amazon Hour Meter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CNI7I2Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 

Alex Lipowich


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## captaindomon

xyobgyn said:


> I find this aspect interesting, that the pair of 2200 can kick out 37 amps transiently, so Honda DOESN'T fuse the "30 amp" plug on the companion.


I like this aspect with mine, but I’ve always wondered how Honda manages to “get away” with this? The 30-amp plug is limited by specs to 30 amps. It seems like they are setting up the system in a way that they can send more power through the outlet than what it (or the 30 amp 10-gauge cords you plug into it) can handle by specification?


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## xyobgyn

captaindomon said:


> I like this aspect with mine, but I’ve always wondered how Honda manages to “get away” with this? The 30-amp plug is limited by specs to 30 amps. It seems like they are setting up the system in a way that they can send more power through the outlet than what it (or the 30 amp 10-gauge cords you plug into it) can handle by specification?


Two thoughts on this:

First, it may well be that the reason Honda didn't get UL approval on the generators is this reason specifically. They wanted the paired generators to be able to allow start up surge needs to exceed 30 amps, but didn't want to put a 50 amp uncommon outlet on the generators as they don't come anywhere near 50 amps. 

Second, if I recall correctly, if you tried to draw 37 amps for a prolonged time, 30 minutes, there is a shut down built into the generator to prevent that. Possibly any cord rated for 30 amps has to allow for up to 30+X for a short time, say, an hour at 40 amps before failing, and Honda knows that it will shut down the output from that outlet well before a cord rated for 30 amps will fail. Pure supposition on my part. Sort of a software breaker that only kicks in after 30 minutes.


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## captaindomon

Makes sense. Thanks!


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## Melson

As @tabora said, you can't get 240vac from this paralleling arrangement. Don't know if that's a concern to you or not, but just FYI.


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## HarryN

We live in CA and had the same issues with the power outages.

My wife wanted power, especially for the garage refrigerator to work and didn't want to deal with refueling the honda so often.

I bought one of these 1x3s instead. It is essentially a UPS that can charge from solar or 120 vac.

The way it works:
- Plug the refrigerator into the 1x3
- Plug 1x3 into the wall (or generator)
- Plug the 1x3 into some solar panels (in my case, I put 2 in front of the house and 2 in back)

95% of the time, the garage fridge is now off grid solar powered.

The generator will only come out when that isn't enough power for stuff.

This isn't 240 vac either - it is all 120.

https://wirlnet-inc.square.site/


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## sportplumber

Here's an interesting video where this guy parallels 3 Hondas and uses an autotransformer to step up to 240 and run a well pump.


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## HarryN

I am trying to figure out how he was able to make this work.

He is showing that he used:
- 2 each honda 2000 size
- 1 each honda 3000 size

"Paired" all three together so that they are running with matched frequencies.

I looked at the honda site and they claim that it is intended for matching 2 essentially identical units, or you risk having lower voltages. I am speculating it is because they don't completely synchronize - but that is a guess on my part.

https://powerequipment.honda.com/generators/generator-parallel-capability

The auto transformer idea works, in that it creates a 240 vac (hot pair) to run a pump from the 120 vac input. AFAIK, it does not create a neutral though, so it still would not work to power a home.

A home is not really 240 vac like that. It is "split phase". Some electrical engineers refer to it as "2 phase", as it 2 each, 120 vac hot wires that are 90 degrees out of phase, a neutral and a ground. This compares to 3 phase, 208 vac, which is 3 each, 120 vac hot wires that are 60 degrees out of phase, a neutral and ground.

edit - see correction from Tabora below on the phase angles. 

I could be entirely wrong - that is my understanding of it.

Harry


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## tabora

HarryN said:


> ...2 each, 120 vac hot wires that are 90 degrees out of phase.


 Actually, Split Phase 240VAC hot legs are 180 degrees out of phase. The two sine waves are therefore completely opposite:


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## HarryN

You are right. Thanks for the correction.

So 240 vac is 180 degrees out of phase, and 3 phase is 120 degrees out of phase?

Thanks


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## Melson

@HarryN, yes (to your last post about phase angles)


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## sportplumber

It does create a neutral typically center tap of the transformer. It is meant for solar systems model is Seauto TX-5000 by Solar Edge.


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## tabora

HarryN said:


> ... So ... 3 phase is 120 degrees out of phase?


 Yes:


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## HarryN

Thanks for the replies and corrections.

I should have known those phase angles.


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## captaindomon

My understanding for standard US residential is that the entire neighborhood is served with three phase, out of sync 120 degrees, and then for each house, they take a phase pair - so one house gets Leg A and Leg B, one gets Leg B and Leg C, and the third gets Leg A and Leg C. First of all, is that correct? Second, they must move one of the phases slightly so they are off 180 instead of 120?

Thanks!!


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## tabora

captaindomon said:


> My understanding for standard US residential is that the entire neighborhood is served with three phase, out of sync 120 degrees, and then for each house, they take a phase pair - so one house gets Leg A and Leg B, one gets Leg B and Leg C, and the third gets Leg A and Leg C. First of all, is that correct? Second, they must move one of the phases slightly so they are off 180 instead of 120?


 Not exactly... The 3 phases in a transmission line are not equivalent to the 3 phases in a 208V 3Phase building service that are generated by the local transformer(s).

The utmost top line of the utility pole is the static wire. The static wire bleeds off lightning surges from the power lines when lightening strikes during a thunder storm. The static wire is connected to the grounding conductor.

Below the static line are three power lines called transmission lines. Transmission lines get typically labeled "A," "B," and "C," and called the "A-B-C Phases" or the "1-2-3 Hots". They conduct high voltage electricity from power plants to substations. Substations reduce the amount of voltage from 69 to 500 kilovolts down to 5 to 30 kilovolts and then send the power out on primary feeder lines.

Directly beneath the transmission lines is the multi-grounded neutral line, or MGN. The transmission lines connect to a grounded neutral conductor that gives a return path for electricity. The ground wire or grounding conductor is also called the multi-grounded neutral line. The grounding conductor runs the entire length of the pole. It is connected to the ground rod.

Located under the MGN are the primary and secondary lines. The primary line carries electricity from substations to transformers at 5 to 30 kilovolts. 

The secondary line is also called the secondary service drop. The service drop leads from the transformer to a home. It is made up of three conductor wires. Two of them are insulated wires that carry electricity from the transformer at 120V; the third is a bare neutral wire that connects to the grounding wire.


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## captaindomon

Thank you! Very helpful!


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## sportplumber

Actually doesn't answer the really interesting question as to phase differences. 120 vs 180. Great question and I would also be interested in the answer. The info graphic may be the way utilities behave on the east coast but completely different here in SoCal. Neutral is created at the transformer, never carried as a line. But all that aside, how does the phase change?


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## Melson

Not all neighborhoods are fed by 3 ph primary. Some are fed off of just one of the three; company engineers are responsible for keeping the greater grid balanced.
A pole mount transformer takes its input from one phase and lowers the output voltage to two 120 volt lines that are 180 degrees out of phase. Thus you can get 240 vac between the two lines, or 120 vac to neutral. 
Those eu2200 honda generators produce 120 vac only. The parallel kit puts one generator output on top of another, the result is double the maximum capacity but still 120 volts.


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## Melson

As an addendum to the above, if you are looking for a genset with 240 vac capabilities then you need to buy it as such. In the honda generator line that means the new eu7000is or the older eu6500is. Those models use two individual alternator windings which are electronically synced (scr triggered) 180 degrees out of phase.


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## sportplumber

Melson said:


> Not all neighborhoods are fed by 3 ph primary. Some are fed off of just one of the three; company engineers are responsible for keeping the greater grid balanced.
> A pole mount transformer takes its input from one phase and lowers the output voltage to two 120 volt lines that are 180 degrees out of phase. Thus you can get 240 vac between the two lines, or 120 vac to neutral.
> Those eu2200 honda generators produce 120 vac only. The parallel kit puts one generator output on top of another, the result is double the maximum capacity but still 120 volts.


So it is the transformer that creates the 180 phase shift due to the center tap for neutral/ground?

It looks like the feed for my house comes from two conductors on the pole and each seems to be "hot". The primary voltage according to the SCE guys is 16.5KV. Used to be 12 but they changed that out a couple years ago and now are involved in a massive "Fire Hardening" upgrade with insulated wires and more. The two wires that feed my road feed about 4 homes and then connect to the main distribution lines. Main lines are 3 wires (phases?) and only 2 are used on this particular feed. That is where the balancing of the grid must come in as I see the wires used alternate.

I still don't understand what is "in" those two wires on the primary side of my transformer. I tend to think it is 2 phases and not one phase and a neutral. Guess I'll ask a lineman as they are all over SoCal now on this project.

EDIT: more info after googling!

It seems the answer is the transformer configuration. In my residential case the utility here is using a "Delta phase to phase" configuration on the primary.


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## tabora

sportplumber said:


> So it is the transformer that creates the 180 phase shift due to the center tap for neutral/ground?


Yes, the residential transformer generates the two 120V legs 180 degrees out of phase.


sportplumber said:


> I still don't understand what is "in" those two wires on the primary side of my transformer. I tend to think it is 2 phases and not one phase and a neutral. Guess I'll ask a lineman as they are all over SoCal now on this project.


 The input to the transformer for a 200A service should be one high voltage hot and the neutral.

Let's look at the pole one more time to see what is going on:



Note there is a bare wire running down the pole. This is a grounding wire. Every utility pole on the planet has one. It is joined to the neutral running between the poles.
There are two wires running into the transformer, (one hot and the neutral) and three wires running out to the house. Two are insulated, and the third one is bare. The bare wire is the ground wire. The two insulated wires each carry 120 volts, but they are 180 degrees out of phase so the difference between them is 240 volts.


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## sportplumber

tabora said:


> Yes, the residential transformer generates the two 120V legs 180 degrees out of phase.
> 
> The input to the transformer for a 200A service should be one high voltage hot and the neutral.


I think we were typing at the same time.

There is no neutral over head here in California. The configuration is what is called "Delta" or "phase to phase" for the transfomer providing the single phase service votage.
(240).

The input of the transformer is actually accross 2 of the 3 phases.

Of course that may be different in other locations.


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## tabora

sportplumber said:


> There is no neutral over head here in California.


That would be highly unusual.



sportplumber said:


> The configuration is what is called "Delta" or "phase to phase" for the transfomer providing the single phase service votage. (240). The input of the transformer is actually accross 2 of the 3 phases.


 I'd love to see pictures of that... There is no reason that two HV hot inputs would be required for generating two 120V legs, and the neutral MUST come from somewhere.


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## sportplumber

tabora said:


> That would be highly unusual.
> 
> 
> 
> I'd love to see pictures of that... There is no reason that two HV hot inputs would be required for generating two 120V legs, and the neutral MUST come from somewhere.


You can read about the delta configuration here https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Distribution_transformer

And Neutral is simply ground at the center tap of the secondary of the transformer and by code here in California it is ground at the main circuit panel. It is not efficient to carry a neutral wire on poles adding weight and cost for no significant reason since the neutral can and is created at the service location anyway.

I can take a picture of my pole but it appears pretty similar to the one in the article labeled "phase to phase in Britain".


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## tabora

sportplumber said:


> I can take a picture of my pole but it appears pretty similar to the one in the article labeled "phase to phase in Britain".


I'll review the link you provided when I have more time later. That Britain transformer looks like it's for transmission rather than distribution to a home. Note that Britain has an entirely different electrical system; there's only a single phase at 230V (the mains) in a residence.


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## sportplumber

I took a pic which may help.

If you look closeley you can see the ground wire which comes up the pole and is connected to the center tap.

There are two feeds off the secondary. The one flying to the left is for my neighbors well while the larger one travels done the pole to feed my home electrical panel.
Not it includes the newly created neutral.


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## Melson

sportplumber said:


> _So it is the transformer that creates the 180 phase shift due to the center tap for neutral/ground?
> 
> 
> EDIT: more info after googling!
> 
> It seems the answer is the transformer configuration. In my residential case the utility here is using a "Delta phase to phase" configuration on the primary_.


You're right, the transformer end taps are referenced to center-tapped neutral. 
As for the two primary wires you mention, the topmost wire is a multipoint grounded neutral wire that is bonded to an earth ground at every pole.
The second-highest wire would be one phase of a three-phase distribution system. Typical community voltages are 4160, 7200, 13,800.. but, I've seen transmission towers march right downtown Destin, Fl., with 230kv. So, there's no real hard-and-fast rule.


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## Melson

ah, I notice the photo you attached. Those are both primary. There are, indeed, two-phase systems, but rare. The vast majority of distribution is single, and/or, three phase.


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## Melson

Let's see if @tabora can help us with the two-phase.


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## sportplumber

It is actually 3 phase you are just seeing a feeder for about 4 homes that picks up 2 of the phases. If I follow it back to the main lines there are 3 lines for the 3 phases. 

Again, no neutral or mgn wire here on west coast. On the transmission towers there are static ground wires up top but not in the distribution systems.


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## tabora

sportplumber said:


> Again, no neutral or mgn wire here on west coast. On the transmission towers there are static ground wires up top but not in the distribution systems.


 So, no lightning protection on the distribution lines, then? Only at the poles... Seems odd, but apparently it's still allowed in California where multiple customers are served from a single transformer, and therefore multiple grounding points are available to the transformer.

CA Grounding code here: https://www.dir.ca.gov/title8/8614.html

Here's an excellent paper on Power System Grounding: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...ew-point.pdf&usg=AOvVaw3xNW_hvviNywx6G9rjQ8hK
For those not wanting to read the whole thing, here are the conclusions:
XIV. CONCLUSIONS
The multi-grounded neutral system for power systems above 600 Volts is a reasonable and safe design. It presents many factors that improve safety over a single point, neutral grounded system. The multi-grounded neutral system provides the following benefits:• Safety is enhanced to utility personnel and the general public with the multi-grounded system when compared with the single point grounded neutral system.
• The zero sequence impedance is lower for a multigrounded system than the single point grounded neutral system.
• Lightning arrester sizes can be optimized using a multigrounded system. A single point grounded neutral system will most likely require higher voltage rated arresters.
• Freezing and arctic conditions have an adverse impact on the zero sequence impedance. A multi-grounded system neutral will still lower the zero sequence impedance over a single point ground. In fact, without the multi-grounded system, it is more probable that insufficient fault current will flow to properly operate the ground fault protection.
• Dry conditions have an adverse impact on the zero sequence impedance similar to that of the arctic conditions.
• Cost of Equipment for the multi-grounded system is lower.​Problems occur and will continue to occur on all power systems. Three-phase, three-wire; three-phase, four-wire multi-grounded; three-phase, four-wire single point grounded and other systems should all be considered acceptable and reasonable. When problems occur, reasonable solutions exist. That is no less true for the three phase, four-wire, multi-grounded power systems.


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## tabora

Melson said:


> Let's see if @tabora can help us with the two-phase.


 It's just using the two primaries to energize the input coil of the transformer, since there's no neutral available. So, instead of connecting to one HV hot with the transformer can connected to the MGN (Diagram 4), that transformer connects to two HV legs (Diagram 3). Still works the same way internally. 



sportplumber said:


> Actually doesn't answer the really interesting question as to phase differences. 120 vs 180...But all that aside, how does the phase change?


 Note that as discussed previously, there is no phase relationship between the input legs and the output legs; they are completely independent and the 120V phases are generated by the local transformer @ 180 degrees by the two output coils.


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## Melson

excellent discussion this has been. Want to thank all contributors for my enlightenment.


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## sportplumber

tabora said:


> Note that as discussed previously, there is no phase relationship between the input legs and the output legs; they are completely independent and the 120V phases are generated by the local transformer @ 180 degrees by the two output coils.


That is what I am having trouble understanding. The waveform on the primary will be reproduced on the secondary and therefore there absolutely is a phase relationship.
A transformer will not alter phase. But I think my mistake was visualizing the waveform on the primary as 2 sine waves 120 degrees out of phase. That would not be the case as that can only be seen as related to ground. The waveform is just sinusoidal on the primary. Single phase essentially and so the same will be the on the secondary. (single phase)

I think that is correct!

Sorry for beating this to death.


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## tabora

sportplumber said:


> That is what I am having trouble understanding. The waveform on the primary will be reproduced on the secondary and therefore there absolutely is a phase relationship.
> A transformer will not alter phase. But I think my mistake was visualizing the waveform on the primary as 2 sine waves 120 degrees out of phase. That would not be the case as that can only be seen as related to ground. The waveform is just sinusoidal on the primary. Single phase essentially and so the same will be the on the secondary. (single phase)


Yes, there is only a single input coil in the transformer, and therefore only a single phase. As shown in the diagrams, the 2 output coils are opposite each other and therefore the 120V legs are 180 degrees opposed.


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## captaindomon

Melson said:


> excellent discussion this has been. Want to thank all contributors for my enlightenment.


Agreed!!


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## captaindomon

Melson said:


> As an addendum to the above, if you are looking for a genset with 240 vac capabilities then you need to buy it as such. In the honda generator line that means the new eu7000is or the older eu6500is. Those models use two individual alternator windings which are electronically synced (scr triggered) 180 degrees out of phase.


Love the eu7000is, but it makes the wallet hurt! ;-)


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## Melson

captaindomon said:


> Love the eu7000is, but it makes the wallet hurt! ;-)


Isn't that the truth. We could be flippant and say 'you get what you pay for'. But,at what point does it become overpriced? For me, that depends upon the context of use and various expectations. If it was for my whole-house generator, for example, I'd want reliability, quietness and serviceability. 

As a field tech I worked on equipment that did the same job but sourced from different manufacturers and different price points. By-and-large the cheap came out expensive at repair time. I came to appreciate attention to details - quality hardware; robust engineering; thoughtful design. Those things cost money.


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## Crazybarber

RedOctobyr said:


> I have a pair of EU2000i, set up for parallel operation. I bought a Harbor Freight parallel kit, it plugs into each generator (using the individual plug-in connectors), and provides a 30A outlet receptacle.
> 
> RV Ready 30A Parallel Kit for Predator 2000 Inverter Generator
> 
> It fit my Hondas without issue. I can't speak to the newer 2200i, but it may still be a worthwhile option.
> 
> The benefit to me is I was able to buy used "normal" units, which are more common than Companions. And each can be used (or sold) individually, without issue.


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## Crazybarber

I just bought to identical eu2200i generators .
I did not get companion . So you are saying I should have no issues doing the paralel with these 2 ? I have the harbor freight paralel kit with the 30 amp plug . Please get back to me ASAP . I’m leaving on a trip this weekend and want to make sure this can work


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## drmerdp

Crazybarber said:


> I just bought to identical eu2200i generators .
> I did not get companion . So you are saying I should have no issues doing the paralel with these 2 ? I have the harbor freight paralel kit with the 30 amp plug . Please get back to me ASAP . I’m leaving on a trip this weekend and want to make sure this can work


You will have no problem paralleling two standard eu2200s. You use the Honda parallel cables you Will be limited to 20 amps through the outlets circuit breaker. I do not know if the harbor freight parallel kit uses the same 4mm insulated banana plug jacks.


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## Dive Bar Casanova

The Firman parallel kit works with most generators. You won’t get full 50 amps with dueling 2200's but you get to use a 50 amp plug and more juice per leg to the house than running through the 30 Amp on the companion.

Be careful lifting those 2200’s. A fast way to blow out your back.

Consider converting the 2200’s to multi fuel so you can run on NG.
I have 2 extended run gas tanks and the 2200s run almost two days straight. On NG it would be indefinite.


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## chadjones999

sportplumber said:


> You can read about the delta configuration here https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Distribution_transformer
> 
> And Neutral is simply ground at the center tap of the secondary of the transformer and by code here in California it is ground at the main circuit panel. It is not efficient to carry a neutral wire on poles adding weight and cost for no significant reason since the neutral can and is created at the service location anyway.
> 
> I can take a picture of my pole but it appears pretty similar to the one in the article labeled "phase to phase in Britain".


True , you can get your Neutral with a auto transformer too, just supply split phase 220 , one leg to L1 and the other to L2 , the center tape will become the N leg, then you will have 120 to N leg of the autoformer from L1 to N or L2 to N. I seen a video of a guy doing it I will have to find it .


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## chadjones999

I did a video on an autoformer , I will do another one showing just 220 going in with no Neutral connected and show 120 to Neutral on output .. I have to wait till I get back up north where I have 220 to use. my shop here in AZ is only 120 .
Here is the autoformer or mid point transformer one I have done :


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