# Honda generator runs fine then surges and dies



## gliderflyer

Hi everyone, new member here. 

I have a Honeywell HW7000EH generator that uses a Honda GX390 for power. I bought it new about 5 years ago and it had never even been gassed up and run till two days ago. During that time it has been stored warm and dry inside my house.

Our power went out Saturday and is expected to be out for a few more days at least. I took it out Saturday and put the oil and gas in and it fired right up and ran excellent for the first 9 hours. 

I refilled the tank and ran it for about an hour and it started surging hard and then died. After it dies, it will start right back up but again surges after a few minutes and dies. None of this seems to be affected by load on the generator. I thought maybe bad gas so I drained the tank and put in 91 octane from a different gas station. It ran fine for an hour or so and the surging started again and it died. I've also changed the plug and saw no effect. The filter on the bottom of the petcock is clean. Oil level is full.

I also did a compression check and got 70psi which seems low but I don't know what normal should be. 

It'll probably be heading to service as soon as I can get someone to work on it but thought I'd check here to see if anyone has any ideas to try first. I'm also expecting any servicemen in the area to be booked as it's mowing season and we have lots of folks in my area without power trying to get there generators running.

Thanks!
Randy


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## KRE

My first guess is something in the load. Tell me what all you had power to. Remember Refrig's an freezers come on an off via target temp, and are reactive loads. Reactive loads are harder to start than a resistive load an drop a single phase generator rating like a rock. What had power to it?


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## gliderflyer

Thanks for the reply.
I had a small, newer model chest freezer, a refrigerator and a couple small led light bulbs. The second time it happened after refueling it ran fine till I turned on a vacuum for about 5 minutes. So that definitely could be a decent load but this is rated at 7000/8750 watts so I didn't suspect it to be the problem. Also after removing the load (stopped vacuuming) it just kept on surging and died.


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## KRE

gliderflyer said:


> Thanks for the reply.
> I had a small, newer model chest freezer, a refrigerator and a couple small led light bulbs. The second time it happened after refueling it ran fine till I turned on a vacuum for about 5 minutes. So that definitely could be a decent load but this is rated at 7000/8750 watts so I didn't suspect it to be the problem. Also after removing the load (stopped vacuuming) it just kept on surging and died.


 I'm guessing w/o doing the math (or having your motor data) with the load you described the set rating went from 7000 to about 4500. Also the governor you have is probably set to tight on the droop/gain setting. Which is OK/good for a resistive load but not for the reactive load you had on it. Adjusting the droop/gain setting is not even for your above average homeowner, this is a critical adjustment and unless you know what your doing and can apply a reactive load while adjusting it's best left alone. I doubt there is a unit problem, as I suspect the issue is an application miss use, which is not uncommon so don't feel bad. The amount of info the consumer needs to size a unit properly is restricted by the industry as they are in the selling end, and like I said back in the 1960's "In confusion there is opportunity" and most mfg's play that card well. Use your machine properly and it will give years of service. Again your unit was/is rated for resistive loads(ie heating, incandescent lighting ect) not reactive. If you were to unplug the Frig an freezer then run the vac I suspect you would not have a problem. With a 7KW unit your are very limited to inrush currents (motor starting) depending the motor starting code. HTH Kenneth


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## gliderflyer

Thanks again,
So assuming it was overloaded, would it be normal for it to continue to surge and die even after the load was removed? I unplugged everything and it would continue to start easy, surge, die. Maybe it (the generator circuit, not the motor) needed to cool down?


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## KRE

No cool down is needed, if w/no load is applied and it hunts for speed and die's, I'd suspect a fuel issue first, w/a governor issue second. There are two different adjustments one for speed, the other for droop. Your engine speed should be 3750 rpm (62.5hertz)no load w/full load applied it will droop to approx 3575rpm(59.5hertz) as you have a 5% governor. The droop adjustment will normally effect the speed setting so one needs to know how to adjust both properly before starting to adjust either. You may in fact have a carb issue but w/o seeing/hearing the unit I don't know. What happens it you close the choke a little? Does it run smoother? If so you have a major vac leak, fuel delivery issue or a plug fuel delivery port in the carb.


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## gliderflyer

Closing the choke a little smooths it out but only very temporarily. I'm heading home in a few minutes and am going to check over the fuel lines and blow out the carb. Other than being 5 years old this generator is brand new. Really bugs me that I had it all these years "just in case" and now it doesn't seem to perform when I need it. Live and learn I suppose!

Thanks for all the help.
Randy


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## KRE

gliderflyer said:


> Closing the choke a little smooths it out but only very temporarily.


 Now I'm wondering if you have a broken throttle spring, or binding linkage. Can you post a photo of the carb and linkage?


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## Waypoint

It sounds like it's starving for fuel, possibly something partially blocking fuel flow to the carb bowl. Not getting enough gas to keep the bowl full, but enough to let it gradually refill while stopped.

Either that or a big piece of crud in the bowl getting pulled over the main jet while running, which then falls away when the engine stops. 

In emergencies I've been able to get away with just removing the carb bowl (after shutting off the fuel valve) if I can access it. With the bowl off you can visualize any debris in it and clean things up. Spray carb cleaner up the emulsion tube, blow it out w/ an air gun or canned air.

You can also remove the float and valve assembly, open the fuel valve to verify good flow.

If fuel isn't gushing, find the filter upstream of the carb and repeat the process. Remove the filter, open the valve and verify good flow to the fuel line.


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## Waypoint

Another thing to check...is the oil level at the completely full mark?

I fought with a Generac generator a few years ago that would start, run for a short time, and then die. Didn't notice the flickering light on the panel telling me the low oil level sensor was shutting down the engine.

Topping off the oil fixed it, even though the oil level was halfway up the dipstick well within range.


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## Tumbleweed

The first thing I'd be looking for is something in the gas tank - a piece of paper, or plastic, or something that obstructs the fuel line and then floats away when the engine dies.....only to get sucked back again when its started again.

The surging / dying sure sounds like fuel starvation, especially since the unit is new.


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## David w

Check the gas tank vent,it maybe stopping the flow due to a vacuum in the tank....loosen gas cap and see


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## iowagold

david w this is an old thread. from 2015.
yes gas tank vent could to have been the issue, but the most likely is the carb.
I would to have replaced the carb and the gas cap if it was here in the shop.
all the bad gas we have here …
unless it is the bp gold...
the gasoline here in the usa is all trash.. at least right now..
we all need to use stabile for ethanol, and sea foam in our gasoline to help.
and double up on the stabile for longer than a month of storage.


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