# Question on keeping backup generator for power outages



## UNCMo96 (Sep 4, 2021)

I just bought a westinghouse wgen12000df that I'm planning to use for power outages (maybe 1-2 times a year). Since I'm not using it regularly what is the best approach to have it always ready for an emergency? Is it better to just not deal with fuel (so I don't have to deal with draining, etc) and just run on propane or NG (need to get conversion kit). As far as oil change, they recommend every 6 months. Can I do it yearly if I'm using it infrequently?


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

so is that gen a V twin?
yea LP or NG is the way to go as primary fuel.
and leave the gasoline tank as dry. and spray down with fogger to hold down the rust.
pm if you need links to that.

for longer term storage make sure the engine cyls valves are all closed
and fog the cyls is a good plan.
cork up the exhaust to keep critters out
i like the remove for flight units.
pm if you need links..

from there if you are all broken in...
oil change every 2 years if it is not ran...
if the valve springs are relaxed and cyls are coated.. no need to test run every month.

but if you cannot get the valve springs to all relax at the same time.
then yes test run every week or 10-15 days...

a valve spring compressed for long term is a bad thing!
the spring will break.
let alone that moisture can get in the cyl with an open valve.

on larger engines with pressure oil systems i like a pre oiler system to help with cam and mains bearings lube.


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## speedy2019 (Jan 29, 2019)

Well I also only use mine for backup power and have it sitting by the side of my house 24/7 with a weather proof cover on, all connected and ready to go so its quick and easy to get going during bad weather,, I run mine with a light load monthly for 20mins or so, I check around the gen every so often to make sure everything looks ok and no leaks.. I Only check the oil yearly as I haven't used it yet during a powercut and the generator doesnt appear to use any oil and its still the nice golden fresh colour even though its had about 20hrs of use since last a oil change, but it hasnt had a thrashing yet...

2 reasons why I run it monthly,,, to keep the battery changed as the generator charges the battery as its runs.... And to keep the engine running nice and smooth as I have a non-inverter type, so a smooth running engine is really important.


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## UNCMo96 (Sep 4, 2021)

speedy2019 said:


> Well I also only use mine for backup power and have it sitting by the side of my house 24/7 with a weather proof cover on, all connected and ready to go so its quick and easy to get going during bad weather,, I run mine with a light load monthly for 20mins or so, I check around the gen every so often to make sure everything looks ok and no leaks.. I Only check the oil yearly as I haven't used it yet during a powercut and the generator doesnt appear to use any oil and its still the nice golden fresh colour even though its had about 20hrs of use since last a oil change, but it hasnt had a thrashing yet...
> 
> 2 reasons why I run it monthly,,, to keep the battery changed as the generator charges the battery as its runs.... And to keep the engine running nice and smooth as I have a non-inverter type, so a smooth running engine is really important.


Is there any issue with leaving a generator outside covered in all temperatures? I've thought about doing this as well.


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## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

Best to store them indoors like a garage or a shed where there's far less temperature swings and exposure time to the elements. Also if left outdoors, critters can nest in it and at the least, create a mess.... poop and urine are highly corrosive... or at worst, chew up something important.

I run my generator every month to check that it is running well AND producing power. You'd want that in an emergency equipment. Doing so, gives me the opportunity to fix things if needed before an actual emergency. But frankly, I'm just looking for an excuse to tinker with it every chance I get. lol

Although, I may have to reduce my monthly runs to once every quarter until this Russia-Ukraine thing blows over. Fuel prices are staggering.


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## Browse Deweb (Jan 16, 2021)

I keep my generator in the garage. I used to keep ethanol-free gas in two 5 gallon cans for the generator, but I converted it to run on natural gas instead. Much easier not having to deal with fuel storage. I usually hook it up and run it every couple of months.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

speedy2019 said:


> Well I also only use mine for backup power and have it sitting by the side of my house 24/7 with a weather proof cover on, all connected and ready to go so its quick and easy to get going during bad weather,, I run mine with a light load monthly for 20mins or so, I check around the gen every so often to make sure everything looks ok and no leaks.. I Only check the oil yearly as I haven't used it yet during a powercut and the generator doesnt appear to use any oil and its still the nice golden fresh colour even though its had about 20hrs of use since last a oil change, but it hasnt had a thrashing yet...
> 
> 2 reasons why I run it monthly,,, to keep the battery changed as the generator charges the battery as its runs.... And to keep the engine running nice and smooth as I have a non-inverter type, so a smooth running engine is really important.


i would run an good after market trickle charger to keep the battery in good shape off the mains.
that would save a boat load of fuel over time.
20 min run time may not be enough to work out all of the condensate out of the internal of the gen...
it all depends on the temps outside and the humidity!

folks i hope we never need our gens!
but with the way things are going...
a metal trash can for protection of the electronics might be a good idea..
think emp.

stay safe over there speed!
way too close to the action!


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## speedy2019 (Jan 29, 2019)

UNCMo96 said:


> Is there any issue with leaving a generator outside covered in all temperatures? I've thought about doing this as well.


I had my gen outside for 3yrs now and I have just changed the fuel pipe as that had gone brittle and was starting leaking, but I havent had any other probs with storing it out side... But you want a thin weather proof cover not thick, as I first bought a thick cover and it held the moisture in during the winter months and it was wet everytime I uncovered it for monthly runs.. I then replaced the cover with a stupidly thin cover and to my amazement this solved the problem... So yeah I have placed a plank of wood over the generator with weights on so the cover doesnt get blown off, that I also use to put by the exhaust to divert the fumes away from my house door


iowagold said:


> i would run an good after market trickle charger to keep the battery in good shape off the mains.
> that would save a boat load of fuel over time.
> 20 min run time may not be enough to work out all of the condensate out of the internal of the gen...
> it all depends on the temps outside and the humidity


I have been thinking about getting a charger for ages now, but I still haven't plus now with our electric bills going up by a £1000 a yr, I dont think I will now... Ive even stopped using my UPS to try to save some money, and I've just ran the generator without the protection from my UPS running my computer, tv setup for the first time. I was a bit nervous doing this, but it ran everything fine without damaging stuff.

I always feel warmth coming from the gen after doing monthly runs so, Im guessing that enough to get rid of any moisture?



OrlyP said:


> Best to store them indoors like a garage or a shed where there's far less temperature swings and exposure time to the elements. Also if left outdoors, critters can nest in it and at the least, create a mess.... poop and urine are highly corrosive... or at worst, chew up something important.


I haven't had that problem yet with critters.


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## speedy2019 (Jan 29, 2019)

The only problem with the gen just having a cover and storing/running it outside is, running the gen in bad weather as the cover will set on fire if you run it with it on.. I have a idea though... With the rear and exhaust side that only gets hot,, I could run the gen with the cover on, but just make sure the rear and side is uncovered and the heat from the gemerator should stop those sides from going rusty if they get wet?


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## noviwinger (Sep 30, 2019)

I have mine outside all the time, but have a shed around it. The shed is plastic but fully encloses the generator. One end I install 3 large vents and the other end I installed an Attic Fan that has automated louvers and it is plugged into the generator, so when the generator is started, the attic fan starts and the louvers open. I then vented the exhaust to the outside with at least 4 inch gap around the exhaust pipe and surrounded by duct. The setup works great and I have had to run the generator for about 30 hours continuous, with fuel refills, in the summer where temperatures were in the mid-to upper 80s and there were no heat problems. Temperature inside the shed is within 10 degrees of the outside temperature. Works well and the generator is protected from the weather and provides some sound deadening. I am happy with the setup. The shed, cement blocks for the floor and all costs less than$250.


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## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

speedy2019 said:


> I had my gen outside for 3yrs now and I have just changed the fuel pipe as that had gone brittle and was starting leaking, but I havent had any other probs with storing it out side... But you want a thin weather proof cover not thick, as I first bought a thick cover and it held the moisture in during the winter months and it was wet everytime I uncovered it for monthly runs.. I then replaced the cover with a stupidly thin cover and to my amazement this solved the problem... So yeah I have placed a plank of wood over the generator with weights on so the cover doesnt get blown off, that I also use to put by the exhaust to divert the fumes away from my house door
> 
> I have been thinking about getting a charger for ages now, but I still haven't plus now with our electric bills going up by a £1000 a yr, I dont think I will now... Ive even stopped using my UPS to try to save some money, and I've just ran the generator without the protection from my UPS running my computer, tv setup for the first time. I was a bit nervous doing this, but it ran everything fine without damaging stuff.
> 
> ...


YMMV, I suppose. Different environments will have vastly different effects on equipment.

I live in a humid country that's just a couple of miles from open sea. Anything metal that's out in the elements tends to rust fairly quickly. A cover while outdoors might afford some protection, but not completely and especially not during the monsoon season. Rain that fell on the ground would evaporate under the cover and although a breathable cloth might help dissipate moisture, I don't think it will help much during the downpour.

So I maintain that really, the best place to store them is indoors or in a shed, unless you're in a place where there's not much salt and/or moisture content in the air.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

on the electrical
would use dielectric grease on all of the connections in a coastal area...
take apart the gen on that one...
yea a total pain but worth it!
same for any that sit outside in the damp air... that is any of the outside gear...
that grease will hold back the oxide on the inlets and outlets on you system as well.
nice brite shiny parts is the goal...

engines that site outside...
yea valves closed, a plug in the exhaust.
and the sun shade, rain tent cover when not running...
stealth cover is nice!
and a BIG chain...
lol
darn gens like to walk off!
GRIN!


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## speedy2019 (Jan 29, 2019)

OrlyP said:


> YMMV, I suppose. Different environments will have vastly different effects on equipment.
> 
> I live in a humid country that's just a couple of miles from open sea. Anything metal that's out in the elements tends to rust fairly quickly. A cover while outdoors might afford some protection, but not completely and especially not during the monsoon season. Rain that fell on the ground would evaporate under the cover and although a breathable cloth might help dissipate moisture, I don't think it will help much during the downpour.
> 
> So I maintain that really, the best place to store them is indoors or in a shed, unless you're in a place where there's not much salt and/or moisture content in the air.


Yeah living near the sea is not good,,as just the sea air will send things rusty .. But Im amazed that mines not more rusty then what it is with being outside for 3yrs now, as its only slightly rusty on the frame solder joints, but other than that it still looks like new, I would show you a picture, but can't be arsed taking off the cover.... Lol this is why I have it all set up and ready to go, because when your in a wheelchair, everything takes twice as long todo stuff


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## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

speedy2019 said:


> Yeah living near the sea is not good,,as just the sea air will send things rusty .. But Im amazed that mines not more rusty then what it is with being outside for 3yrs now, as its only slightly rusty on the frame solder joints, but other than that it still looks like new, I would show you a picture, but can't be arsed taking off the cover.... Lol this is why I have it all set up and ready to go, because when your in a wheelchair, everything takes twice as long todo stuff


That is true. I've forgotten about your predicament so yeah, shoving heavy machinery in and out of the garage is not always practical.

Surface rust for the most part is harmless, but that's not to say it's good. If you do regular exercise runs, you should be able to see them at the onset and still have plenty of time to deal with them.


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## pipe (Jun 27, 2021)

OrlyP said:


> Fuel prices are staggering.


CNN Philippines projects ₱100/L but even then below USD 10/gallon, similar to what it cost me 40 years ago to fuel my Renault and Peugeot cars


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## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

pipe said:


> CNN Philippines projects ₱100/L but even then below USD 10/gallon, similar to what it cost me 40 years ago to fuel my Renault and Peugeot cars
> 
> 
> View attachment 11224


But if you take into account the wage of an average person, any price hike on essential stuff like petroleum is a big deal.


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## speedy2019 (Jan 29, 2019)

gasoline is like £1.50 a litre in the United Kingdom where I live


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## Noreaster (11 mo ago)

I use 100% gasoline - not the 90% gasoline/10% ethanol mix that generators hate so much that we use in our cars. Assuming that your power outages are fairly rare, and that you can find 100% gasoline (there are often listings on the internet), your generator is far less likely to fail when you need it.

I also put fuel Startron fuel stabilizer and Seafoam in the gas in the tank, and have 40 gallons of stabilized, 100% gasoline on hand for an emergency (which hasn't happened in the 11 years since the hurricane, but I can guarantee a hurricane's arrival by getting rid of or taking poor care of my generator).

Every 6 months, I empty the generator gas tank and my gas cans, gradually, into my car, and refill all of them with fresh gas.

This isn't much work, and the extra cost of the 100% gasoline is usually about 50 - 75 cents ore per gallon, so this isn't a huge annual investment. 

(Natural gas is not available where I live, and adding a propane tank would be a buit too much).

The most frustrating thing is not having a working generator when you need one. I can remember going to my neighbor's house when there was a power outage from an ice storm. He sells and repairs power equipment from his barn. He had about 14 generators that wouldn't start, and had three other guys plus himself, all in a frenzy, repairing them. He was running the whole operation and his house with a 5000 watt generator.


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## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

Noreaster said:


> I use 100% gasoline - not the 90% gasoline/10% ethanol mix that generators hate so much that we use in our cars. Assuming that your power outages are fairly rare, and that you can find 100% gasoline (there are often listings on the internet), your generator is far less likely to fail when you need it.
> 
> I also put fuel Startron fuel stabilizer and Seafoam in the gas in the tank, and have 40 gallons of stabilized, 100% gasoline on hand for an emergency (which hasn't happened in the 11 years since the hurricane, but I can guarantee a hurricane's arrival by getting rid of or taking poor care of my generator).
> 
> ...


I bet that would work for a lot of people. But in my situation, we no longer have a gasoline vehicle. Sold our Civic and Fit way back because we needed bigger vehicles... so Diesels we got. Suffice to say, rotating gasoline is not a viable option in my case.

I agree on using non-ethanol gas. I'd never let a drop of E10 touch mine. But I've decided that gas is just going to be my secondary fuel. I installed a tri-fuel carb kit and so LP is now my primary. With that, there's zero fuel maintenance needed.


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## pipe (Jun 27, 2021)

Here is an informative (yes, annoying on surface..) test -- you may want to look at beginning sequences and the carb removal/bowl results



https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=Fuel+Additive+Experiment


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## speedy2019 (Jan 29, 2019)

Well its been quite a warm day todo, so I thought Id show you pics of my gen with being outside for 3yrs, 24/7 with just a weather proof cover over it And the most of the rust is on the exhaust.


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## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

^ It's holding up pretty well.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

i would to have built a platform to get it up out of the rain splash.


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## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

iowagold said:


> i would to have built a platform to get it up out of the rain splash.


I was thinking locking caster wheels. Two functions in one.... make it higher and mobile.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

or both... maybe...
as he is in a wheel chair a bit higher might be a good thing...
at least for service...
not sure on rope pull for manual start.
but that can be rotated...
but it needs to be solid for a good pull.


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## speedy2019 (Jan 29, 2019)

iowagold said:


> i would to have built a platform to get it up out of the rain splash.





OrlyP said:


> I was thinking locking caster wheels. Two functions in one.... make it higher and mobile.


It had rubber feet that lifts it a few mm and the water runs straight underneath, but a few have broken off from dragging the generator,, so yeah lifting it up above the floor is a good idea to stop frame rusting when its sitting on the floor, or wheels would be a really good idea, as the gen weighs a ton and takes some dragging to move it... I should be able to replace the rubber feet with the the wheels easy as the feet are just bolted on.



iowagold said:


> not sure on rope pull for manual start.
> but that can be rotated...
> but it needs to be solid for a good pull.


I have never used the pull rope and I dont think I could use it if I wanted, because I cant pull them fast enough, thats why I bought one with an electric start .. But I will rotate the starter rope as thats a excellent idea, even though I'll probably never use it.


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## speedy2019 (Jan 29, 2019)

Something like these might do the job?


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## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

Something like that.

I prefer the plate-mount casters compared to the bolted/stem ones in your picture for better stability. But the plate-mount casters needs four holes per wheel so it's not without the drawbacks.

As for the wheel size, I'd say 3" is fine for this size generator. Any smaller and it's going to be more difficult to move the generator on uneven surfaces.









3” Caster Wheels,Set of 4,Heavy Duty Swivel Casters with Brake, Safety Dual Locking and No Noise Polyurethane (PU) Wheels,Swivel Plate Castors(TWO HARDWARE KITS for Free): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific


3” Caster Wheels,Set of 4,Heavy Duty Swivel Casters with Brake, Safety Dual Locking and No Noise Polyurethane (PU) Wheels,Swivel Plate Castors(TWO HARDWARE KITS for Free): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific



www.amazon.com


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## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

You might look into a wheel kit designed for a gen such as this:


Amazon.co.uk


That one looks like it should fit your gen. They are also available on eBay.


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## speedy2019 (Jan 29, 2019)

GenKnot said:


> You might look into a wheel kit designed for a gen such as this:
> 
> 
> Amazon.co.uk
> ...


I need something quick and easy todo, that requires no drilling etc becaues someone else will have todo it for me.. If I could do the work myself I would buy a proper gen wheel kit.

Wil I cause any problems from tipping the generator on its side?


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

drain the gas and oil first speed
if there is any gasoline on your gen.
i know you are on bottle...
but did not know if you had petrol in the petrol tank


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## speedy2019 (Jan 29, 2019)

iowagold said:


> drain the gas and oil first speed
> if there is any gasoline on your gen.
> i know you are on bottle...
> but did not know if you had petrol in the petrol tank


Noway, I have to drain it all?, I'll try first fitting the wheels without having to tip over the gen. That gas bottle is for my fire, I haven't done the natural gas conversion yet on the gen.... I will order the wheels tomorrow and I'll let you know how it goes... I will prob buy these, just because they should be quick and easy to fit..








4 X Heavy Duty Swivel Castor Wheels Trolley 50mm Furnitures Casters Rubber 200kg | eBay


Type: Swivel Castor Wheels. Very easy to fit in, all you need to do is secure the socket into your furniture and push the castor in! 4X Castor Wheels. Double ball bearings swivel head. Heavy duty steel plate.



www.ebay.co.uk


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## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

As an alternative... use a furniture dolly/cart or similar. Zero modifications. If the wheels don't have locks on them, wheel chocks would suffice.


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## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

speedy2019 said:


> I'll try first fitting the wheels without having to tip over the gen.


The problem with the gas is fairly obvious as it will run out the filler cap. The problem with the oil is that it will run into the carburetor & air filter if tilted to that side. I have had mine laying on the other side (opposite the carb) without draining either fuel (less than 1/2 tank) or oil. No issues.

The wheels look like they should work. I would put both locking wheels on the side with the electrical panel as that should be easiest for you to access.

If the concrete is not level where the gen usually sits, then you could probably add washers as needed on the wheels to make the gen sit level. Of course, it would no longer be level if you moved it, but I think you said that is where you leave it when it is running.

I would check the grease on the wheels to see if they have a good amount on the swivel ball bearings. I have seen similar wheels shipped with just a light oil on them.


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## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

One more thing....

Before laying the gen on its side, turn the fuel off and drain the carb or run the gen until the carb is dry.


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## speedy2019 (Jan 29, 2019)

Well I have manage to remove the rubber feet today by lifting up the 1 side putting it on bricks and removing the 2 feet and then did the same with other side. So fingers crossed I willl be able todo the same when fitting the wheels aswel, but will need the gen tilted higher as they are pretty tall wheels, and will lift the gen up by about 70mm/7cms up from the floor...

Thats a good idea of adding washers to get the gen level as its not level, but its tilting toward the fuel exit hole in the tank, so its quite good, but I cant fill it all the way to the top And I was a tad concerned when I first got the gen with the oil being higher on 1 side than the other, but its still working 3yrs later, so it cant be causing a problem, So yeah I might level it up with a few washers, thanks

Ive ordered these wheels and depending what time they come tomorrow, I will get them on.




__





Amazon.co.uk






www.amazon.co.uk


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## speedy2019 (Jan 29, 2019)

iowagold, I couldn't rotate the pull rope because the socket wrench kept loosing grip on 1 of the bolts and the worse it got the more times I tried. I only tried 3-4 times as I didnt want the totally bugger up the bolt. So any tips to undo the bolt, because I'll be a bit stuck if the rope ever needs replacing?


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## pipe (Jun 27, 2021)

Amazon.com : Rounded Bolt Remover


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## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

speedy2019 said:


> the socket wrench kept loosing grip


Maybe if you have some pliers similar to this you might get it loosened up enough that your socket will remove it. Put some penetrating oil on it first if you have some.








You are probably getting rust/corrosion setting in due to the gen being outside. It might be a good idea to remove other bolts too (that you can easily get off), and reinstall them with some anti-seize to help protect them from further rusting.


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## speedy2019 (Jan 29, 2019)

That took longer than replacing the fuel line!!!, I had too get my sister to help in the end, and I didnt level it with washers as I didnt have enough, but its not slanting badly anyway... I have taken pics of the back of the gen now that I can move the gen easy and as you can see theres very little rust on that side aswell. Not bad from being outside for 3yrs 24/7.... The fuel and oil has been pretty shaken up though, but it hasnt been tipped forwards/backwards, only tiltled from the sides So hopefullly the shaking up hasn't caused any problems and will start ok, as I havent tried it yet, but I have faith as it hasnt never not started(famous last words, hehe)











































GenKnot said:


> Maybe if you have some pliers similar to this you might get it loosened up enough that your socket will remove it. Put some penetrating oil on it first if you have some.
> View attachment 11244
> 
> You are probably getting rust/corrosion setting in due to the gen being outside. It might be a good idea to remove other bolts too (that you can easily get off), and reinstall them with some anti-seize to help protect them from further rusting.


I think they are cheap nasty bolts and they have been done up stupidly tight also, The oil drain bolt took some getting off the first time aswel, as the wrench kept slipping on that... Thats cheap generators for you I guess. I will see if my mate can get the bolt off the next time he's about, as Im not very good at push and turning at the same time, and Im thinking it might undo if more preasure was applied.


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## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

Good job on the casters. Looks like OEM.


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## JVazquez53 (Jul 8, 2021)

UNCMo96 said:


> I just bought a westinghouse wgen12000df that I'm planning to use for power outages (maybe 1-2 times a year). Since I'm not using it regularly what is the best approach to have it always ready for an emergency? Is it better to just not deal with fuel (so I don't have to deal with draining, etc) and just run on propane or NG (need to get conversion kit). As far as oil change, they recommend every 6 months. Can I do it yearly if I'm using it infrequently?


I've tried both fuels and keep in mind that with propane or NG wattage goes down. I do keep mine with fuel year around. I just run them once a month using gasoline with Stabil for about 5-10 minutes. Doing this for many years without any problems. One of mine is dual fuel but I only use propane if there's no unleaded available.


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## speedy2019 (Jan 29, 2019)

OrlyP said:


> Good job on the casters. Looks like OEM.


Thanks,, I might have to put the casters further apart on the round tubing if gen jumps/shakes too much when running, as the wheels are more in the middle of the gen atm and will tip sideways quite easy if pressure is applied on a handle. But hopefully the weight of the gen will be enough to keep it still when running and wont jump and vibrate it's self to destruction.



JVazquez53 said:


> I've tried both fuels and keep in mind that with propane or NG wattage goes down. I do keep mine with fuel year around. I just run them once a month using gasoline with Stabil for about 5-10 minutes. Doing this for many years without any problems. One of mine is dual fuel but I only use propane if there's no unleaded available.


I have also done this ever since having my gen from new and it hasnt failed to start yet, plus its outside 24/7 and I never drain the carb.


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## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

Please indulge me on a little story time...

I was young and stupid once and back in the 90's, my dad bought a noisy 2700W/3200W brushless screamer. It was during a time we were having a power crisis so rotating blackouts that lasted 4-8 hours a day were the norm. My dad had put me in charge with the maintenance and to me, it seemed well-built enough to stand weathering outside.

Bad idea.

Several months or about a year later, it had gradually started to rust. First at the exhaust muffler, then at the seams/welds on the frame, and when the blackouts eventually became far in-between, the bottom inside of the gas tank also started to rust. I didn't knew then about the long-term effects of E10 fuel so I had no idea why that happened. Took flak from my dad for doing a bang-up job.

We still have it in storage but sadly it's currently in a non-running condition.
































I am seriously considering restoring it to make up for the neglect. If not for the nostalgia and the fact that it kept the lights on during those lengthy outages of my college years, and one that we all literally took for granted, but also for the learning experience. If that happens, this is going to be my first deep-dive on a small engine restore.

That's where I'm coming from.... Treating the old Denyo like that was an expensive and valuable lesson for me. So knowing what I know now, I've become overly protective of my current investment.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

yea it makes a eu7000is gen look cheap after you spend all of the time and cash on an older gen repair...
but if you are doing a keep sake...
yea
sometimes you will spend 10 times the cost to repair something dad or family left to you...
just to keep the memory alive in your garage...


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## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

iowagold said:


> yea it makes a eu7000is gen look cheap after you spend all of the time and cash on an older gen repair...
> but if you are doing a keep sake...
> yea
> sometimes you will spend 10 times the cost to repair something dad or family left to you...
> just to keep the memory alive in your garage...


So true. Hence, it's been untouched for decades. The idea of working on it is a novel one but what is holding me back is the cost. At the minimum, I might just get it to work without fixing the aesthetics. You know, just being able to say; "Hey dad, sorry to mess this up. But at least I got it running again. Though, you wouldn't want it to run your computer on that." 😄


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## speedy2019 (Jan 29, 2019)

Well our fuel has just gone up from E5 to E10, I haven't needed any fuel since they have added more ethanol but hopefully the gen will still run ok, but you say it rusts the tank? Your dads gen looks like it was built to last, was it covered when not in use and protected from the rain, as Im guessing the metal is much tougher than mine?

With being in a chair, I cant drive, as Im quite jumpy,, so I never thought I own something with a engine. So Ive kind of gone over the top with maintaining the gen and its probably not worth it as it was only 400 US dollars. But saying that I'll still be a bit gutted if it lets me down during a long power cut with all the maintaining I have done to keep it running well.. Today I started it up and it started up fine, so the shaking/tipping hasn't effected it, plus it stays still when running, so jobs a good one, as they say. So thanks for suggesting wheels to lift in off the ground guys and I can move the dam thing easy aswel now.


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## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

The gen should run okay on E10, but the real problem is leaving it in the tank & carb. The alcohol in E10 (E5 for matter too) attracts moisture. I keep my E10 in a sealed gas container so that it minimizes the amount of water the gas can absorb. I do not use fuel stabilizers...I just rotate my gas thru my cars. I don't keep the gas in the can longer than 1 year...usually less.

I store my gen dry (tank & carb). I drain the tank and carb and then I run a concentrated mix of 2-cycle oil & gas thru it (about a 1/2 cup) on final run. Slosh around the tank first to get it oiled before running the gen. This gets everything such as gaskets, o-rings, piston rings, etc. oiled up really well internally. It even gets oil inside the muffler.

Drain any excess from tank & carb and also pull the rope to put valves on compression stroke to relax the springs. I use Super Tech TC-W3 outboard 2-cycle engine oil from Walmart, but that's probably not available in UK. One of the reasons I use that oil is because it is blue. Any drips I find later can be quickly identified as engine oil or 2-cycle oil. Wipe or spray a little used oil on exposed external surfaces that might rust (it will burn off the muffler). I have stored my gen for years at a time (it is a 2008 model) with no issues. I know a lot of people want to exercise their gen frequently...and that's okay too. Whatever gives you peace of mind.


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## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

speedy2019 said:


> Well our fuel has just gone up from E5 to E10, I haven't needed any fuel since they have added more ethanol but hopefully the gen will still run ok, but you say it rusts the tank? Your dads gen looks like it was built to last, was it covered when not in use and protected from the rain, as Im guessing the metal is much tougher than mine?
> 
> With being in a chair, I cant drive, as Im quite jumpy,, so I never thought I own something with a engine. So Ive kind of gone over the top with maintaining the gen and its probably not worth it as it was only 400 US dollars. But saying that I'll still be a bit gutted if it lets me down during a long power cut with all the maintaining I have done to keep it running well.. Today I started it up and it started up fine, so the shaking/tipping hasn't effected it, plus it stays still when running, so jobs a good one, as they say. So thanks for suggesting wheels to lift in off the ground guys and I can move the dam thing easy aswel now.


It's a true blue Japanese-made generator. Not many Chinese-made ones were available back in the day.

It was unfortunately placed in the open with just a weighted plywood over it when not in use. I did placed it on top of an old tire carcass to absorb the vibration and have it higher than the ground. Even so, when it rained, the lower frame constantly got wet. When it was retired, we moved it to an indoor storage area and covered with tarp... stayed there for decades.


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## speedy2019 (Jan 29, 2019)

Ive 3d printed out 2 of these tube clips, because with the gen being off the ground, the wind gets underneath the front of the cover and lifts it up. So these clips just snaps onto the bottom of the generator's frame holding down the cover...


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## speedy2019 (Jan 29, 2019)

I use this in the fuel, and it does say "Fuel Fit not only keeps the carburettor clean for easy starting but now also protects against the corrosive effects of ethanol",,But just how true that is I dont know, but it should stop the tank from rusting, if its true.. 









2 X Briggs & Stratton Fuel Fit Additive/Stabiliser. 992381 : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive


2 X Briggs & Stratton Fuel Fit Additive/Stabiliser. 992381 : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive



www.amazon.co.uk





Those clips on the gen that I printed out do snap on surprisingly easy and grips well, but Im thinking they might get a bit floppy and melt a bit in direct sun in the summer months...


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## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

Two more things I need in life.... a 3D printer and a decent oscilloscope.

I still have an unopened bottle of Sta-Bil Storage. Never had a need to use or store gasoline as I've been running on LP for its monthly exercise. Reviews have been mixed, regardless of fuel stabilizer brand, with some going as far as claiming worse results when using them.


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## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

It's alive, and it makes power. Pieces of crud flew out as it revved up. One way or another, I'm restoring this.

Initial assessments: The governor is a little stiff and the carb needs an overhaul. The frame is crusty, especially the lower half, and the muffler has rusted through near the bottom. I still haven't looked inside the tank but I'm guessing it's not going to be in great shape.

I'm surprised it didn't lose residual magnetism, though.

Anyway/, I'll likely follow my own advice and put some casters on it when I'm done.


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## speedy2019 (Jan 29, 2019)

OrlyP said:


> Two more things I need in life.... a 3D printer and a decent oscilloscope.


Ive printed out a few things for the generator now, a gas/oil funnel and probably 1 of the most useful things I have designed and printed so far... The gas cap opener (now 2 tone colour as you see in my previous pictures), because with not much to grip onto, it makes it almost impossible for me to remove by hand

.



















OrlyP said:


> It's alive, and it makes power. Pieces of crud flew out as it revved up. One way or another, I'm restoring this.
> 
> Initial assessments: The governor is a little stiff and the carb needs an overhaul. The frame is crusty, especially the lower half, and the muffler has rusted through near the bottom. I still haven't looked inside the tank but I'm guessing it's not going to be in great shape.
> 
> ...


It doesnt look in too bad condition, and go for larger casters than 50mm if you put casters on, because my 50mm casters dont like any kind of rough surface and force is needed to move the gen across rough ground..


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## ajnuzzi (12 mo ago)

UNCMo96 said:


> I just bought a westinghouse wgen12000df that I'm planning to use for power outages (maybe 1-2 times a year). Since I'm not using it regularly what is the best approach to have it always ready for an emergency? Is it better to just not deal with fuel (so I don't have to deal with draining, etc) and just run on propane or NG (need to get conversion kit). As far as oil change, they recommend every 6 months. Can I do it yearly if I'm using it infrequently?


First let me say that I have the westinghouse wgen12000df and its the fourth generator I've owned in as many years and it is by far the best one I've owned (cat 7500e, durostar ds12000eh, westinghouse wgen9500df). If you are planning on converting it to natural gas it is SO EASY. You don't not need to waste money on a kit. You simply need ONE 3/8 npt to 1/2" hose barb connector, a 3/4" street elbow, a few 3/4" black iron nipples, and your natural gas hose and quick connects. If you search youtube for westinghouse 12000df natural gas conversion you'll see a video by PNG technologies walking through the conversion. I converted the ds12000eh, wgen9500df, and the wgen12000df and the 12000df was the only one that I was really satisfied with how it runs on all three fuels. Anywho, converting to natural gas is great knowing that unless the ng supply gets disrupted you've got unlimited fuel. I still keep a few gallons of TruFuel in the tank in case my wife needs to fire it up when I'm at work. Has happened more than I would have thought. I enjoy firing it up once a month for an hour or so and it makes me feel better knowing for sure it's ready to go. You can winterize it like Iowagold said and that's great advice, I personally enjoy breaking it out monthly and it makes me feel better knowing it's all good to go. Feel free to PM me if you need help with the NG conversion. If you don't factor in the natural gas hose and quick connects the conversion can be done for under $20. The first two gens I converted ran just OK on natural gas. The twin cylinder wgen12000df ran so perfect on natural gas I honestly couldn't tell a difference between when it ran on gasoline or NG. I suspect it has to do with the superior AVR because overall it runs much more stable than the other gens I've owned. Good luck


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## Ground Fault (Jun 9, 2020)

I wish those bloody bells would stop.


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## sdowney717 (12 mo ago)

Biggest issue is old gas rotting inside the carbs and tanks.
You can not even expect turning off the fuel valve and running it dry to clear out all the gasoline from the fuel bowl will definitely solve the issue.
I have done that thinking it would be good, but the needle float valve corroded inside the carb and was still badly stuck.
So if it going to not be run, remove the carb bowl and let all the gas dry out of the carb, then bolt the carb bowl back on the carb. 
Other thing is if you can empty the fuel tank. which is not really an easy thing to do. They should allow for doing that, maybe a T'eed shut off valve with a drain that you can drain out the gas from the tank, could maybe do it inline with existing rubber fuel line.


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## speedy2019 (Jan 29, 2019)

I have a sheet of wood ontop of the generator to hold the weatherproof cover on and to stop water from sitting on the cover when not in use. But the sheet of wood now rests on the cap opener I made as it's too tall. So I have just printed out these riser clips that snap onto the frame handles that lifts the wood up off the cap opener.....

Having done this, I have thought of a cheap and easy way to us the gen in wet weather, and that is stapling waterproof plastic sheeting to the the edges of the wood so they cover the sides of the generator. I would have to leave the rear and exhaust sides uncovered as they get pretty hot,, but those side are quite well protected with where the gen sits. I'll probably use a different sheet of wood aswel, as I lean that up against the exhaust side when in use, to redirect fumes away from the house door..


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