# Transfer switch for furnace: how do you ground it?



## Epotential (Dec 4, 2021)

Instead of using a whole-house standby generator, I want to be able to run the electrical parts of my gas furnace (blower, gas valve, and thermostat) off a portable generator. So it would seem I need a transfer switch just for that.

I'm not sure how to handle the furnace ground wire. The power company provides three wires to the house (single phase 230V): two hots and a neutral. The neutral is tied to earth ground. The furnace runs off 115V.

I don't know whether, when transferring to generator power: 1) to leave the furnace ground connected to the house's earth ground (and so (I guess) use a double-pole switch), or 2) to set up a separate earth ground for the portable generator and transfer the furnace ground to the generator's ground (and so use a triple-pole switch), or 3) something else.

What is the usual/preferred practice for this situation, and are there pitfalls?


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## VelvetFoot (Nov 11, 2019)

I think I'd buy a furnace transfer switch, Amazon.com ,

Connect it to the furnace circuit per directions. I think the thermostat would be powered off the same circuit. The grounding is taken care of through the generator cord to the circuit where it's grounded and bonded to neutral in the panel.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

make sure to use an floating neutral gen set like an honda eu2200i gen set.

some of the new furnace units are super picky on the earth ground part as part of the flame detection.
kinda weird science stuff.
but it can be an grounding thing when on back up gen.


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## exmar (Jun 29, 2015)

I looked at the transferswitch VelvetFoot suggested. Lots of pics, but no wiring diagram/schematic. Write up says it can be configured for floating ground or hard ground in two minutes. Seems like a reasonable way to go, it's Amazon so you have thirty days to return it. 

Whichever type of generator you end up with a ground is important, either the existing service entrance ground or driving a ground rod at the generator's location. Sounds like you have a traditional furnace which is much more forgiving of electrical issues than some of the newer high tech units. Floating ground generator wants to use the existing service ground, hard ground units (construction type) need a driven ground. Unfortunately, sometimes in these situations, you make the best guess, then adjust. Just energizing some relays and a blower motor shouldn't be too difficult. Again, ground is important, the generator can provide a very nasty shock.


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## Epotential (Dec 4, 2021)

VelvetFoot said:


> I think I'd buy a furnace transfer switch, Amazon.com


Now I'm thinking that dedicating a transfer switch to the furnace presents basically the same grounding issues as using a whole-house transfer switch. Also seemingly there aren't transfer switches made especially for furnaces. Am I right about that?


VelvetFoot said:


> Connect it to the furnace circuit per directions. I think the thermostat would be powered off the same circuit. The grounding is taken care of through the generator cord to the circuit where it's grounded and bonded to neutral in the panel.


Then you're implying the transfer switch needs three poles and would transfer furnace ground to the gen set.

Yes, the thermostat and valve take 24VAC power off a transformer built into the furnace and powered by the furnace's 115V supply.


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

The ground of the transfer switch gets tied into the homes grounding system. Any transfer switch you choose should have that outlined in the wiring instructions.


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## Epotential (Dec 4, 2021)

iowagold said:


> make sure to use an floating neutral gen set like an honda eu2200i gen set.
> 
> some of the new furnace units are super picky on the earth ground part as part of the flame detection.
> kinda weird science stuff.
> but it can be an grounding thing when on back up gen.


I'd like something better, but for now my gen set is an Energin 1250 XLT (two-stroke 120V 800W continuous). Seemingly adequate to run: sump pump, fridge, freezer, or furnace, one at a time. Does that affect your grounding recommendation?
Furnace is from 1968, with a 1/3 HP blower.
EDITED: the blower is 1/3 HP, not 1/2 HP.


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

Epotential said:


> I'd like something better, but for now my gen set is an Energin 1250 XLT (two-stroke 120V 800W continuous). Seemingly adequate to run: sump pump, fridge, freezer, or furnace, one at a time. Does that affect your grounding recommendation?
> Furnace is from 1968, with a 1/2 HP blower.
> View attachment 10594


Definitely look into something bigger and better, that’s a very small generator for the surge wattage from a 1/2hp blower motor.

I owned a variant of yours a while back. Those little two stroke gens produce particularly dirty power.


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## Epotential (Dec 4, 2021)

drmerdp said:


> Definitely look into something bigger and better, that’s a very small generator for the surge wattage from a 1/2hp blower motor.
> 
> I owned a variant of yours a while back. Those little two stroke gens produce particularly dirty power.


Sorry, I was wrong about the blower motor. It is 1/3 HP, not 1/2 HP. My sump pump is also 1/3 HP. I have run the sump pump off the generator, and I didn't see that anything bad happened.

The 1250 in the model number of my generator means 1250W peak output. I found this page https://www.homelite.com/pdf/wattage_worksheet.pdf and others that say a 1/3 HP furnace fan uses 1400W to start and 700W sustained. Hmmm ... but 1/3 HP is more like 250W. I guess the 1/3 HP is the blower's output power. So a blower motor is barely 1/3 efficient (250W / 700W ~= 36%) ?


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

I’d put a clamp meter on the circuit and watch the inrush and voltage numbers. You’ll certainly notice the ramp up time for the blower with be a few seconds longer

A comfortable Minimum would be 2200watts* in my opinion.

*(oddly specific ehh)


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## VelvetFoot (Nov 11, 2019)

Lol, your generator looks very much like my Harbor Freight 2 stroke model. When I ran my oil boiler on it, the oil burner motor would kind of make funny noises, as did the motor on my wood stove insert's fan. I still have a soft spot in my heart for it, but it's not the thing for this job-it can't be good for that equipment.

On the other hand, it powered an electric pole trimmer, again from Harbor Freight (60 bucks I think) just fine this past summer. I like the lightness, simplicity and cost. Check out the price of a gas powered Stihl...geesh.


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## Epotential (Dec 4, 2021)

drmerdp said:


> I’d put a clamp meter on the circuit and watch the inrush and voltage numbers. You’ll certainly notice the ramp up time for the blower with be a few seconds longer
> 
> A comfortable Minimum would be 2200watts* in my opinion.
> 
> *(oddly specific ehh)


To be clear, are you saying the generator's peak power rating should be at least 2200W if it's intended to start a 1/3 HP blower motor?


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

Epotential said:


> I'd like something better, but for now my gen set is an Energin 1250 XLT (two-stroke 120V 800W continuous). Seemingly adequate to run: sump pump, fridge, freezer, or furnace, one at a time. Does that affect your grounding recommendation?
> Furnace is from 1968, with a 1/3 HP blower.
> EDITED: the blower is 1/3 HP, not 1/2 HP.
> View attachment 10594


I would use a good current meter to check the furnace power demands....
from the charts i have here the 1/3 hp motor at 120 vac should be 5.0-7.0 amps run. 
that is 840 watts run plus the controls for maybe 1000 watts...
then you need to be able to start it...
.
so by that math an eu2200i gen set would be the min gen set to run just for the furnace...
and maybe a couple of led lights...

i am lucky on my furnace to have a smaller motor setup for 4.2 amps run for 504 watts run plus the controls for 
5.1 amps ttl run or 612 watts run...
and start is close to 1000 watts.
i cheat on the system when on gen power and lock the fan to on to only have one inrush power during the gen run.
then turn on the rest of the systems breakers after the fan is up to speed.
and i can run the whole house on one eu2200i gen set during the winter.
but i am all led lights. and ultra low power on the fridge and freezer. at 1.1 amps on the fridge and 0.9 amps on the freezer.
so as long as i keep the temps at a modest 64 deg f the fridge and freezer do not run much.

do a power audit is the best advice...
and get a killa watt meter to test plug in devices.
pm if you need links.


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

Epotential said:


> To be clear, are you saying the generator's peak power rating should be at least 2200W if it's intended to start a 1/3 HP blower motor?


Anything in the neighborhood of 2000watts would be the ideal minimum rating to start the fan reliably without over stressing the motor or generator.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

depends on the brand on the min power.
some mfg's over state the power.

i like the honda eu2200i for a small gen set.
easy on fuel for a small unit...
and then there are a few others that are ok out there.

make room in your budget for a real gen set as well...
I like the eu7000is for a main gen set.
nice and quiet

also look in to tri fuel as an option for any gen set you select..
that way you have a choice for fuel during a BIG event like his last month in areas of the usa...

gear up folks
it looks like we might be in for a wild winter 2022....
at least it has a good start so far..


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

A few years ago I built a few single circuit transfer switches for me, my in-laws, and sister. They have been handy for keeping the heat going during winter outages. I never installed mine, just found it in a box. It was a fun little project at the time. Basically a copy of the EZ generator switch.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

that is an easy project to do for sure.
did you have a ground from the furnace to the generator inlet?
or did you bond that inlet ground connection to the neutral?

on older classic burner furnaces they are not picky with the flame sensor connected to the green ground.
but grounding correctly to the furnace is a good plan.


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

iowagold said:


> that is an easy project to do for sure.
> did you have a ground from the furnace to the generator inlet?
> or did you bond that inlet ground connection to the neutral?
> 
> ...


The generators inlet ground is connected to the houses ground separate from neutral.


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## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

Epotential said:


> I don't know whether, when transferring to generator power: 1) to leave the furnace ground connected to the house's earth ground (and so (I guess) use a double-pole switch), or 2) to set up a separate earth ground for the portable generator and transfer the furnace ground to the generator's ground (and so use a triple-pole switch), or 3) something else.


Use option 1. I am in the process of getting my genny set up in my well-ventilated shed so that I am better prepared for the next Texas power grid fiasco. I will be running exhaust thru the wall, shielding genset with cement board, connecting to NG, burying wires over to house in conduit, etc., etc.

As for the grounding of my gas furnace, I plan to *tie generator ground to house ground*. I am going to put an electrical box on the side of the furnace with house wiring going to one side of a *double-pole switch* and generator power to the other side of the switch. Common on the switch will run to the furnace. A 3-ft. male 120V cord will come out of the box for connecting gen power to the furnace when necessary. This setup is somewhat similar to what drmerdp has built above.

My new high SEER furnace will throw an error code and refuse to run if it does not have a *neutral-ground bond*. So, I have already tied those together at the genset. I am also going to add a 10 ft. ground rod at the genny, but I don't think I really need it. Where gen power enters house, I am adding a box in the wall with 6 outlets consisting of 3 GFCI receptacles. I will run extension cords as needed when on gen power to my fridge, furnace, lamps, etc. I do not live in an area where we have many power failures (such as a hurricane area), so I am not interested in tying into house wiring. I live in gas-electric house and really do not have many electrical loads that are critical. I don't plan to run the A/C, so I don't have a need for 240V. I could always buy a small 120V window unit though.

My current non-inverter genset has too much THD to run the new furnace. I am going to replace it or get a smaller secondary inverter genset with low THD to run the furnace.

I received a pleasant surprise when converting my genset to NG. I conducted heat and load testing and found that the genset still carried full load and ran the exact same exhaust temperature (302 degrees with 80 degree ambient) as gasoline. I was expecting a slightly reduced load capability along with an increased exhaust temp. Here is my tri-fuel conversion kit ($28) on the genset...










I did have to slightly change the angle of the demand regulator mount because the wheel interfered with it. But that was done easily by drilling one additional hole in the bracket. That NG hose is temporary...just for testing.


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## McCorby (Apr 26, 2021)

GenKnot said:


> I am going to put an electrical box on the side of the furnace with house wiring going to one side of a *double-pole switch* and generator power to the other side of the switch. Common on the switch will run to the furnace. A 3-ft. male 120V cord will come out of the box for connecting gen power to the furnace when necessary. This setup is somewhat similar to what drmerdp has built above.


I don’t think a double pole switch is correct for this application. You want to use a three position selector switch for “line”, “off” and ”gen”. Drmerdp’s setup appears to use such a switch. You will also want to add an appropriate sized circuit breaker to the “gen“ side of the circuit. 



SWITCH, 30A, BLACK-7801


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## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

McCorby said:


> I don’t think a double pole switch is correct for this application.


Why? I didn't fully describe the switch...I should have said double-pole double-throw. The center off position switch will work but doesn't add anything that I can think of unless you wanted to disconnect all power sources for some reason from the furnace. Otherwise, it is going to be on house wiring, or on gen. Switching back to house would remove gen connection (or just unplug it) if you are shutting the gen down for refueling, etc.

The switch you linked to would work great. Anything switch 20A or greater is okay for most house gas furnaces because they usually work off a 15A breaker.


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

On off on is preferred just to prevent any potential arching between the line and load circuits.


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## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

Arcing between the circuits would be a bad switch design, but I see your point.


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## McCorby (Apr 26, 2021)

GenKnot said:


> Arcing between the circuits would be a bad switch design, but I see your point.


So are you saying there is a 2 position, double-pole double-throw “wall” switch that is designed not to arc when used in this application?


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## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

The contacts on switches arc and so do relays. But they don't arc from one side of the switch to the other.


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## McCorby (Apr 26, 2021)

This a a decent read….





__





Generator Transfer Switch Buying and Wiring


A guide & advice on buying and hooking up home generator transfer switch: how to choose, wiring diagram, price, sizing. A manual switch for under $150. How to connect a portable genset to your house. Explains a problem with GFCI and grounded neutral. Backfeeding explained.




www.smps.us





excerpt from above link:

_“True" power transfer switches for a generator should have three positions: LINE, OFF and GEN. When switching between LINE and GEN, they always pass through the OFF position. Such break prevents arcing or short circuits during the transition._


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## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

And the reason it has true in quotation marks is because it refers to transfer switches for panels and other such large loads where heavy amounts of current might be flowing. For example, when switching grid power there could be large currents involved because multiple items in your house might come on/off at once (such as HVAC). Heavy currents can establish quite an arc. A heavy-duty transfer switch with proper lockout is appropriate there.
For switching a single furnace blower on/off it would not make much difference. But go with what you feel comfortable with...as I said an on-off-on switch will work fine. The important thing for the OP is that it needs to be double pole to switch the hot and neutral together.


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## McCorby (Apr 26, 2021)

Then why do multi-circuit transfer switches use 3 position switches for each load? Wouldn’t using more common 2 position, DPDT switches be cheaper to manufacture? Maybe it’s just for looks…? 😜









Reliance Controls Transfer Switches


Reliance Controls Transfer Switch superstore. Huge selection of Reliance Controls Manual Transfer Switches. Buy Reliance Transfer Switch Direct and save.




www.electricgeneratorsdirect.com


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## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

Here's your answer (it doesn't have a thing to do with arcing)...


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## Epotential (Dec 4, 2021)

drmerdp said:


> A few years ago I built a few single circuit transfer switches for me, my in-laws, and sister. They have been handy for keeping the heat going during winter outages. I never installed mine, just found it in a box. It was a fun little project at the time. Basically a copy of the EZ generator switch.


That is a lot like what I've had in mind. I would probably do without the circuit breaker, as my furnace has its own local fuse. 

I think I can find suitable parts to make something like that. But can you say what you used for the box and cover plate? Did you have to make the holes in the plate or could you find one with knockouts?


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

GenKnot said:


> Here's your answer (it doesn't have a thing to do with arcing)...


Or maybe it does and the off position is also a “convenience feature.” 😉


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## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

The off position could be used for "convenience" if you wanted to totally isolate the furnace wiring (including the ground) from both sides. That could be useful in some instances.


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## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

@drmerdp Your DIY box in post #16 gives me an idea. I have several old desktop computer power supplies laying around. I could use the AC connector and the power cord (which would then be removeable) from one of those to make my box.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

GenKnot said:


> Use option 1. I am in the process of getting my genny set up in my well-ventilated shed so that I am better prepared for the next Texas power grid fiasco. I will be running exhaust thru the wall, shielding genset with cement board, connecting to NG, burying wires over to house in conduit, etc., etc.
> 
> As for the grounding of my gas furnace, I plan to *tie generator ground to house ground*. I am going to put an electrical box on the side of the furnace with house wiring going to one side of a *double-pole switch* and generator power to the other side of the switch. Common on the switch will run to the furnace. A 3-ft. male 120V cord will come out of the box for connecting gen power to the furnace when necessary. This setup is somewhat similar to what drmerdp has built above.
> 
> ...


do not use a ground rod at the gen set if you are grounding at the house ground.
that will make a ground loop.
an Honda eu2200i gen set works well with modern furnace units.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

you can use an industrial 30 amp 3 way wall switch for switching.
it does not have a center off but they do work well.
pm if you need links.
i set up my first system that way so i could select power for each item.
i just used a breaker on the inlet to match the 120 vac gen set.
select line and load for each branch needed with a switch for each branch.

now days i just did a proper interlock system....
and i have moved the breaker panel to the main level of the house for easy access.
pm if you need links for parts and pictures of the project.


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## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

iowagold said:


> do not use a ground rod at the gen set if you are grounding at the house ground.
> that will make a ground loop.


Thanks for that info. I have been debating with myself as to what to do with the ground rod connection (that's why I said "I don't think I really need it"). Since I am not tying into house wiring (except for the ground connection at the furnace), I need to consider my options. I have a ground rod at the shed for a small subpanel...just running an outlet and lights there. I need to look at what the electrician did for sure, but I think the neutral-ground busses are separated inside the subpanel. My new HVAC system will not run without a ground per my installer. So, my choices with the generator are (1) tie into the existing ground rod, (2) use a separate ground rod, or (3) no ground rod.



iowagold said:


> a Honda eu2200i gen set works well with modern furnace units.


Yes, for sure! But it is way beyond my investment for a genny that I would only use once or twice in a decade. My 2008 Champion only has about 100 hours on it. Much of that runtime was put on by others when I briefly loaned it out after a tornado event.


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

GenKnot said:


> @drmerdp Your DIY box in post #16 gives me an idea. I have several old desktop computer power supplies laying around. I could use the AC connector and the power cord (which would then be removeable) from one of those to make my box.


👍 cool.


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## McCorby (Apr 26, 2021)

GenKnot said:


> Here's your answer (it doesn't have a thing to do with arcing)...


I’m sure you don’t want to hear this, but you are wrong. For confirmation, I reached out to Reliance Controls, a large manufacturer of manual generator transfer switches.……
The reason for 3 positions is that it is a requirement to “break before make”. “The circuit needs to break before it can be made in the new position regardless of the power source. Shorting is eliminated and Arcing is non-existent. No back feeding.”


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## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

Yes, that is how commercial transfer switches are made. The neutral is the last to break and the first to make. But I think the OP is asking about how he can hook up his gen to his furnace an easy way...as in cheap DIY. At least that is how I read his comments.

A simple $10 double-pole (or a 3-pole could be used), double-throw switch will do the job. It could have a center OFF position or not. It would not change arcing of the contacts whatsoever.

There are two types of arcing that do or might take place within a switch. The arcing of the actual contacts that should normally carry the load current. That arcing occurs even with the Reliance switch as it cannot be avoided if current is flowing at the time the switch is transferred. If they told you their switches do not arc at the contacts under load that's BS. The other type of arcing that is possible is from one contact to another within the switch (or even switch body) that is never supposed to be there. For example, this type of arcing can occur if a low voltage switch is used in a high voltage application. Or, in the application of a transfer switch, it could arc from the gen side to the grid side and that would be a no-no. That's a voltage breakdown issue that causes that arcing.


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## McCorby (Apr 26, 2021)

GenKnot said:


> Yes, that is how commercial transfer switches are made. The neutral is the last to break and the first to make. But I think the OP is asking about how he can hook up his gen to his furnace an easy way...as in cheap DIY. At least that is how I read his comments.
> 
> A simple $10 double-pole (or a 3-pole could be used), double-throw switch will do the job. It could have a center OFF position or not. It would not change arcing of the contacts whatsoever.
> 
> There are two types of arcing that do or might take place within a switch. The arcing of the actual contacts that should normally carry the load current. That arcing occurs even with the Reliance switch as it cannot be avoided if current is flowing at the time the switch is transferred. If they told you their switches do not arc at the contacts under load that's BS. The other type of arcing that is possible is from one contact to another within the switch (or even switch body) that is never supposed to be there. For example, this type of arcing can occur if a low voltage switch is used in a high voltage application. Or, in the application of a transfer switch, it could arc from the gen side to the grid side and that would be a no-no. That's a voltage breakdown issue that causes that arcing.


Why wouldn’t you use the right component for the application??? Why wouldn’t the OP want their DIY furnace transfer switch to operate/perform like a commercial unit if possible? You can get the correct switch for the application for less than $20. Is saving $10 really worth risking safety?

you said “_Or, in the application of a transfer switch, it could arc from the gen side to the grid side and that would be a no-no._”
This thread is by definition about a transfer switch application. With a 3 position switch, it can not arc between the 2 power sources (grid and generator). This is not the case with a 2 position switch.

Can you please explain what I’m missing in my logic? Maybe a wiring diagram to show how you plan to wire the switch. Thank you!

Edited: toned down my “attitude”! 🤪


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## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

Could you please direct the OP to the $20 transfer switch? That would be most helpful. He is trying to DIY this installation (at least he doesn't mention calling in an electrician) and so he would likely be interested in a cheap, but appropriate, switch.


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## McCorby (Apr 26, 2021)

GenKnot said:


> Could you please direct the OP to the $20 transfer switch? That would be most helpful. He is trying to DIY this installation (at least he doesn't mention calling in an electrician) and so he would likely be interested in a cheap, but appropriate, switch.


It’s actually on sale for $12.50 (plus shipping of course)!



Switch, 20A 6553-6553


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## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

Thanks. I cannot tell from the photo or description if that is a SPDT or DPDT. If DPDT it should work!!!!


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## McCorby (Apr 26, 2021)

It’s a SPDT. Maybe drmerdp has a drawing or can explain how he wired his dyi furnace transfer switch using what looks to be a similar switch.

I know that my 10 circuit transfer switch uses this switch since I had to replace one due to shipping damage.

edit: this is actually the one used in my transfer switch. part # 7801. Same price, but the one I linked above is rated for 20 Amps versus 30.



SWITCH, 30A, BLACK-7801


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

I used a DPDT switch (on off on). Neutral as well as hot gets switched.

Heres pics of the wiring.


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## McCorby (Apr 26, 2021)

Thanks for sharing! Do you remember where you acquired your switch?


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

McCorby said:


> Thanks for sharing! Do you remember where you acquired your switch?


It’s been a while… I can’t say for certain, but I think it was a local electronics store. The other pieces were Amazon.


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## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

Based upon above photo by drmerdp, this is the wiring...








Here are some Amazon links to various parts including some options:








Leviton 5239 15 Amp, 125 Volt, Flanged Inlet Receptacle, Straight Blade, Commercial Grade, Grounding, Back Wired, Black - Electric Plugs - Amazon.com


Leviton 5239 15 Amp, 125 Volt, Flanged Inlet Receptacle, Straight Blade, Commercial Grade, Grounding, Back Wired, Black - Electric Plugs - Amazon.com



www.amazon.com












Amazon.com: RVGUARD NEMA 5-15, Black 15 Amp Flanged Inlet 125V, Shore Power Inlet Receptacle with Waterproof Cover, 2 Pole 3-Wire, Straight Blade（Black ETL Approved : Automotive


Buy RVGUARD NEMA 5-15, Black 15 Amp Flanged Inlet 125V, Shore Power Inlet Receptacle with Waterproof Cover, 2 Pole 3-Wire, Straight Blade（Black ETL Approved: Plugs, Inlets & Receptacles - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



www.amazon.com




(👆 with a cover)








Amazon.com: RKURCK 125-250V AC 50V DC Push Button Circuit Breaker 15Amp Thermal Overload Protector L1 Series Manual Reset Thermal Circuit Breaker 15A : Tools & Home Improvement


Buy RKURCK 125-250V AC 50V DC Push Button Circuit Breaker 15Amp Thermal Overload Protector L1 Series Manual Reset Thermal Circuit Breaker 15A: Thermal Circuit Breakers - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



www.amazon.com












Twidec/2Pcs Rocker Switch 6 Pins 3 Position ON/Off/ON AC 20A/125V 15A/250V DPDT Red LED Light Illuminated Boat KCD4 Rocker Switch Toggle KCD2-203N-R: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific


Twidec/2Pcs Rocker Switch 6 Pins 3 Position ON/Off/ON AC 20A/125V 15A/250V DPDT Red LED Light Illuminated Boat KCD4 Rocker Switch Toggle KCD2-203N-R: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific



www.amazon.com












Taiss 3pcs Heavy Duty Toggle Switch DPDT ON/Off/ON 6 Terminal Metal Rocker Toggle Switch 20A 125V with 3pcs Waterproof Cover Ten-1322: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific


Taiss 3pcs Heavy Duty Toggle Switch DPDT ON/Off/ON 6 Terminal Metal Rocker Toggle Switch 20A 125V with 3pcs Waterproof Cover Ten-1322: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific



www.amazon.com












CESS Screw Mount AC Power Inlet with Solder Tabs,Socket Type, (LW) (2 PACK) - - Amazon.com


CESS Screw Mount AC Power Inlet with Solder Tabs,Socket Type, (LW) (2 PACK) - - Amazon.com



www.amazon.com












AC 250V 15A IEC320 C14 Male Power Cord Inlet Socket with Fuse Holder,3Pin Inlet Module Power Connector Socket with 3pcs Wires(Pack of 2) - - Amazon.com


AC 250V 15A IEC320 C14 Male Power Cord Inlet Socket with Fuse Holder,3Pin Inlet Module Power Connector Socket with 3pcs Wires(Pack of 2) - - Amazon.com



www.amazon.com




(👆 with a fuse - eliminate breaker)


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

basic yes.
i would do a breaker and maybe have a fuse at a larger rating.
that way if the breaker failed you have a second fail safe.
and use the sea sense marine breakers on the push button.
they are better quality.
pm if you need links on a better marine inlet.
pricey but it is marinco.


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