# Need help understanding my generator needs.



## figi (Aug 31, 2016)

Hello. I am needing help understand a few things on choosing the right generator. I've researched and learned quite a bit over the last 4 days. I think I have most of it down however I come across some posts and websites that leave me with some questions.

The purpose of the generator is strictly for emergency purposes. We live on the Gulf Coast and with the last hurricane, even though we just had wind, we were without power for a week. I am on a budget so I'd really like to keep it under $700 total (shipping, tax, cables, etc).

I've found out the watts required for the things we want to keep powered which is the fridge, freezer, a window a/c, tv, dvd player, stereo and 3 lamps. It would be 2577 running watts. 

The generator at the top of my list currently is a Wen 3750/4750 that is $430 total. It has electric start, two 20A 5-20R outlets, a 30A rv TT-30R outlet, and a 30A L5-30 outlet.
If I need larger Im looking at the Smarter Tools 5500/6500 for $610 total. It has four 120V 20A outlets, a 120/240V 30A AC L14-30R, a 120V 30A AC L5-30R and one 12-Volt 8A DC outlet. It however doesn't have an electric start.

Question #1 - Surge Watts - I'm not quite understanding the surge watts. I know that they can vary according to the appliance. I've read that most people either just double the running watts and use that, and others say to just double the highest running watt. After looking at how generators are setup 3500/4000 etc, Im guessing the last is the better way to go? If not I can't figure out why gens are not more like 3500/7000. I tried to calculate my surge watts best I can on each individual appliance and come up with about 5020 watts.

Question #2 - Overload - My running watts total is 2600, that would mean a 3750/4750 would be running at 70%. Is that too high if it's just used for emergencies? It would be running non-stop for maybe a week at most. (hopefully)

Question #3 - Cords/Adapters - I am hoping that I am able to plug most of my items into the 5-20 outlets using two of the cords that have the triple tap ends and then running extension cords from that to each appliance. I also hope to use a 30-to-15 adapter I saw at Lowes to hook either the fridge or the a/c to the L5-30. Do you see any problems with this? The only 10g cord I found at Lowes is $90. Is this the one I would need for the L5-30 or could I get a smaller cord since I would be using the 30-to-15 adapter?

Question #4 - Amps - I was just about to choose a generator when I came across a site that said to also check my amps. So I did that, mostly from estimates provided on other sites. I total about 24 amps (fridge 9, freezer 5, ac 6, tv/dvd 1, lamps 1.5, stereo .5). Does those sound about right?. The site went on to say that even though an outlet on the generator may be a 20 amp outlet and that even though there maybe 2 or 4 outlets that if the circuit inside the generator is only 25 amps that is the most I will get total from the generator. So I couldn't plug 20 worth of amps into EACH outlet because they are going to share whatever's inside the generator? I have to say this is what has confused me the most.

Question #5 - 3750 or 5500 - So do you thing the 3750 would be good or would I need bigger?

Thank you for ANY help in ANY of this!


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## exmar (Jun 29, 2015)

IMHO, you should be looking at a 5500Watt. While you can get by on a smaller unit, it would be running essentially maxed out. Maybe I'm conservative, but like to load things less than max. for steady state operation. A larger unit also lessens the concern about starting vs running watts. Another consideration during extended outages is that if you have watts available, you'll suddenly find things you desperately need to plug in. I started with a 3750 and went to a 5500 for that reason. 

If $$ are a consideration, plan on using extension cords, etc. Connecting the 30A to your breaker box adds $$ particuarly if you're not comfortable doing that yourself. Extensions are a PITA, but can get you through an outage.

Another aspect of cost is fuel. You'll need to have containers (no longer cheap-thanks EPA!) with Stabil or equivalent added and cycle the fuel into one of your vehicles and refill (with Stabil, etc.) periodically. In a wide spread outage, you can't go to the gas station as they have no power at the pumps. When the "big one" is heading your way, fill up your vehicles and have a siphon (Auto parts store, etc.) available. I recall a 13 day outage we had here due to an ice storm and folks were driving two hours to buy gas for gensets. 

Most small engines recomend changing the oil every 50 hours, so in a week outage that would be two to three oil changes. Have oil, tools, etc. available for that. That's in a continuous run scenario. I've found that running the genset 12-14 hours daily keeps things cold, let's everyone watch TV, etc. and shut it down when we're going to bed. Again, being conservative, not comfy with a genset running with everyone asleep. 

Do you have a porch or somewhere to place it out of the rain? Air cooled engines are happiest not being drenched with cold water. Consideration should be given to the exhaust, prevailing winds and can the exhaust enter your living space.

Good luck,

Ev


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## Tboney (Sep 9, 2020)

exmar said:


> IMHO, you should be looking at a 5500Watt. While you can get by on a smaller unit, it would be running essentially maxed out. Maybe I'm conservative, but like to load things less than max. for steady state operation. A larger unit also lessens the concern about starting vs running watts. Another consideration during extended outages is that if you have watts available, you'll suddenly find things you desperately need to plug in. I started with a 3750 and went to a 5500 for that reason.
> 
> If $$ are a consideration, plan on using extension cords, etc. Connecting the 30A to your breaker box adds $$ particuarly if you're not comfortable doing that yourself. Extensions are a PITA, but can get you through an outage.
> 
> ...





exmar said:


> IMHO, you should be looking at a 5500Watt. While you can get by on a smaller unit, it would be running essentially maxed out. Maybe I'm conservative, but like to load things less than max. for steady state operation. A larger unit also lessens the concern about starting vs running watts. Another consideration during extended outages is that if you have watts available, you'll suddenly find things you desperately need to plug in. I started with a 3750 and went to a 5500 for that reason.
> 
> If $$ are a consideration, plan on using extension cords, etc. Connecting the 30A to your breaker box adds $$ particuarly if you're not comfortable doing that yourself. Extensions are a PITA, but can get you through an outage.
> 
> ...


Based on also living on the Gulf Coast for a long time I'd say Exmar's advice is all spot on. I have a couple of Champion 3400 watt 120volt inverters that I use mostly simply because I feel better about my electronics using them. I also have a 5600 watt (running) 240 volt Craftsman that I use on occasion also. The gas tank is much bigger on the Craftsman so I don't have to get up in the middle of the night to gas up. When you consider surge just remember not to start everything at once. Start your fridge, wait a minute. Then start your freezer, wait a minute. Start your window air conditioner and wait a minute. You get the idea. I keep about 20 gallons of gas on hand during hurricane season and use it in my truck as soon as it's over. I do add stabil. I do have a generator outlet wired to my sub-panel protected by an interlock. I hate extension cords but like Exmar said, they'll get you through an outage. Good luck with whatever you do. There are some smart folks on here that can advise you also. (I'm not one of them)


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## purplewg (Aug 16, 2020)

A couple of things come to mind when I read figi's post. Some words of wisdom my dad passed down to me before he passed. "Son, when building a barn figure out what size you want and double it". "Son, when you buy a truck or tractor, get the biggest one you can afford and then buy the next size larger".


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## jkingrph (Sep 18, 2017)

Back in 79 when I got out of the USAF, and having been stationed at Eglin AFB, at Ft Walton, Fla right on the coast and having been through one hurricane on the beach, and several others living in N Louisiana, I decided to relocate inland and have never been sorry. Our outages in a semi rural area have either been wind driven, the most common, and the rare ice storm here in central E Texas. We are all electric, central air via a heat pump, so I got the biggest portable I could find locally at the time, a 11000w Honda, rather pricy even 18 years ago when I bought it. I had an electrician friend install a double throw disconnect switch so I could isolate utility power from an inlet box mounted on the side of the switch. Also made a inlet power cord 6/4 wire and 50 amp inlet and outlet plugs on the ends, and just long enough so I could sit the generator under a detached carport and run power to the house. The generator will power almost but not everything, I do turn off electric hot water when on the generator and the supplemental heat strips for the heating system. and in all these years everything has worked. Whenever severe weather threatens, I stock up on ethanol free gas, getting about 60 gal of gas, which I treat with Stabil and just a little two cycle motor oil, keeps cans from rusting, and carb seals lubed, seems to work. When I run the generator, no matter how many or few hours, I change the oil, using high grade synthetic, such as Mobil 1. For gas cans I recently replaced some plastic ones, not wanting 20-30 gal of gas in plastic, with some of the Wavian NATO cans, which are taller and slimmer so I can actually place more of them in an under bench cabinet than with the fat plastic or some of my round metal cans. I generally use the gas through the summer for my mower, and then replace early to mid winter when the chance of ice is greater, or when wind events are forcast.


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