# What would you recommend for a home backup portable generator?



## MaXpeedingRods Generator (4 mo ago)

I have one question, perhaps someone will help me make sense of all the reading I've done so far.
I need:

Closed Inverter Generator: super quiet + more gas efficient
240V + 50A
Dual Fuel could be nice to have
Price: $800 to $1,500 range, as I have to get an electrician to install an outlet and transfer switch box, so that will cost too.

Any suggetsions please?


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## Dutchy491 (Sep 18, 2019)

What make/models have you been looking at? Why is 50A necessary? I have a 40A Generlink switch and a Honda em6500sx plus a Honda eu2200 to run the fridges/freezer and tv to run essentials/help conserve fuel. Works for us quite nicely…😉


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## Browse Deweb (Jan 16, 2021)

I have a Honda EU7000is, converted to tri-fuel using the US Carb MSK7000 kit. I run it on natural gas. The 240V 30A output powers my whole house with the exception of the 4-ton HVAC unit. We bought a portable inverter air conditioner in the event a power outage hits during a heat wave. Our cooking, heat and laundry run on natural gas though, not electric. We do have an electric oven, but likely wouldn't use it during an outage. We could always use the toaster oven, microwave and/or BBQ grill for cooking.


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## wesr228 (5 mo ago)

It will be hard to get a large enough 240v CLOSED inverter within your price range, especially if wanting dual fuel. 

Check out generatorbible.com, it lets you filter over 500 generators for what you're looking for.

I went with an open frame inverter, a Champion, and was right at $1,500.00. 

Finally Upgraded My Generator Setup To Something I’m...


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## pipe (Jun 27, 2021)

MaXpeedingRods Generator said:


> I have one question, perhaps someone will help me make sense of all the reading I've done so far.
> ...
> Any suggetsions please?


You can send me one of the 5500w / 240v units and I will be happy to test it on all our Florida homes.


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## FlyFisher (Jun 30, 2018)

If you NEED 50 amps (as in your power demands are such that you need that much...) then I don't think an inverter is the way to go.

If you have natural gas available the best route to go is a low RPM (1800 RPM) built-in unit, like a Cummins RS30. See link below - just one I found real quick searching, but there are several vendors that sell them.









Cummins Power Generation RS30 Cummins Quiet Connect™ Series 30kW Standby Power Generator 120/240V Single-Phase


Buy Cummins Power Generation RS30 Direct. Free Shipping. Check the Cummins RS30 Quiet Connect™ Series 30kW Standby Power Generator (120/240V Single-Phase) ratings before checking out.




www.electricgeneratorsdirect.com





The reason for this type of generator is the longevity and serviceability. The low RPM, pressurized oil, and liquid cooling (like a car engine) is what contributes to the longevity.

There are no smaller generators out there that have the above features that make them powerful, quiet, and reliable. You are going to take out one of those 3 attributes with anything less.

If you have natural gas available, that is pretty much what you need to go with. There are drawbacks, however the fact that fuel is literally piped right to you takes a significant priority. The reason is every other type of fuel you need to transport - diesel, gasoline, and propane. Although, propane - if permanently installed and you have a large tank - you can have delivered. Same with diesel. However, gasoline is another matter. It works for portable generators, but when you start counting in to the hundreds of gallons for stand-by generator use it makes less and less sense - and trying to get hundreds of gallons to the generator to sustain it for any significant period of time is going to be very problematic.

If you want to go the diesel route - Perkins is a good brand that has been around for a long time. They make some very reliable engines for units in prime use applications. Below is a 12.5kw unit, starts a bit over $10k USD. That is a bit smaller than your 50 amp spec, but it gives you something to go off of - they do have smaller units and, of course, larger units - as big as you want to go.



Perkins 12.5 kW Diesel Generator with Sound Enclosure



If you want to go the portable generator route - not quiet at all, in fact very loud - they won't be, over the long term, nearly as reliable as the low-rpm units above - but you can go with a 15kw rotary to get you in to that 50 amp range. That is what we have - a 15kw powered by a Honda GX690 engine. I did the conversion on it for propane and natural gas. So it runs on all 3 types of fuel. It will power a whole house - including central AC - with ease even on natural gas (lower energy density than propane and gasoline), but it doesn't have much trouble starting and running the AC. 

Though, unless we need AC - it is way overkill. We recently got a 5500w Champion enclosed inverter - 120v only gen - and, though I haven't load tested it yet, should be able to supply all the back up power we need minus the AC - including the central air fan. With natural gas that means we have heat. Without natural gas that means we need to go to gasoline and since the gen is an inverter it will use a lot less gas than a rotary. And if we get in a jam and need lower fuel consumption we can run the Honda EU2200 for just essential stuff and get by OK for a good while. The EU2200 is set up to run an external tank so I can get a lot of gas to it. The Champion 5500w is getting the same treatment (but it does not have a fuel pump like the EU2200 does so I need to modify it by putting one on). 

Lots to digest. 

The main thing here is you need to understand a lot of various aspects of what you are actually trying to accomplish and the actual logistics in doing so. If you blind yourself solely with the "power requirements" then there are other serious logistics you may miss - like the availability of fuel. It does you no good to install a 100kw generator at your house to cover all your anticipated and then some load requirements if you can not get fuel to it. Therein lies the largest logistics issue. If you have multiple fuel options - like our gasoline, propane, and natural gas options - we have options. If natural gas is there (that isn't to be relied on 100% - natural gas can get cut off, and I have seen it get cut off down the street to cut off a serious gas leak so it could be repaired) then we are forced to tanked fuel - and during a prolonged outage if gasoline isn't available then we have the option to use propane. That is a lot better to have 3 baskets to pull from, rather than one primary and loose it then be left with all our eggs in one basket. That still isn't a guarantee - but it is better to have the options. 

Again, look at the whole picture - don't confine yourself to looking at the electrical side of it alone. 

Good luck!


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## Browse Deweb (Jan 16, 2021)

Genmax has a larger inverter generator that has a 50A outlet, but I can't say how good the unit is or how easy it is to get parts.









Amazon.com : GENMAX Portable Inverter Generator, 9000W Super Quiet Gas Propane Powered Engine with Parallel Capability, Remote/Electric Start, Ideal for Home backup power.EPA Compliant (GM9000iED) : Patio, Lawn & Garden


Amazon.com : GENMAX Portable Inverter Generator, 9000W Super Quiet Gas Propane Powered Engine with Parallel Capability, Remote/Electric Start, Ideal for Home backup power.EPA Compliant (GM9000iED) : Patio, Lawn & Garden



www.amazon.com





Here is a guy running his 5-ton HVAC unit on it using a soft starter:





You can also parallel them for more power:


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## MaXpeedingRods Generator (4 mo ago)

Dutchy491 said:


> What make/models have you been looking at? Why is 50A necessary? I have a 40A Generlink switch and a Honda em6500sx plus a Honda eu2200 to run the fridges/freezer and tv to run essentials/help conserve fuel. Works for us quite nicely…😉


 I need to power my 3-ton whole house AC which is about 30A. and a gas furnace


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## MaXpeedingRods Generator (4 mo ago)

FlyFisher said:


> If you NEED 50 amps (as in your power demands are such that you need that much...) then I don't think an inverter is the way to go.
> 
> If you have natural gas available the best route to go is a low RPM (1800 RPM) built-in unit, like a Cummins RS30. See link below - just one I found real quick searching, but there are several vendors that sell them.
> 
> ...


Very helpful. thank you


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## MaXpeedingRods Generator (4 mo ago)

thanks for your help, I guess $ 1500 is not enough, I am going to be more in the $2300 range all-in, including the electrician. Is this possible?


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## ToolLover (Jan 13, 2020)

You did not mention your age range.
If you are elderly or partially disabled, then think, could my wife handle getting this set up to run the house.
Believe you me the time will come.
That should be a factor in your purchase.
Later on, you could be in a fix without the proper permanent set up.
Ask you woman what she thinks about this purchase.


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## wesr228 (5 mo ago)

MaXpeedingRods Generator said:


> thanks for your help, I guess $ 1500 is not enough, I am going to be more in the $2300 range all-in, including the electrician. Is this possible?


Again, really depends on if you need an enclosed inverter or not. There are options out there like the Open Framed Inverters, or traditional generators that actually do have low THD%. If you can deal with the increased noise you can (or could) get a powerful enough machine with low THD and get everything for under $2,300.00.

Looks like you have the Harbor Freight, Duromax, Genmax, and Powerhorse as Options for that power range with those requirements. 

Personally, I'd go with the https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200756204_200756204#

But probably not going to get a soft start and an electrician, and still be under $2,300. Also generators are getting scarce online right now, something about 2 million customers without power. I'd feel more comfortable securing the generator now and run cords. I could always have an electrician do the work next year if funding it all at one time was an issue. Don't let perfect be the enemy of "at least I have something and am not completely miserable and sad and using flashlights."

Finally, it hadn't been mentioned, if you're wanting to power a 3 ton A/C unit, you'll probably need a soft start, but check your unit for LRA requirements. It's another rabbit hole, but wanted to warn you now. This is what I and a lot of people have used. EasyStart™ 368 Soft Starter

Finally finally, an interlock is a lot more adaptable and usually a lot more cost efficient then putting in manual transfer switch. Usually hundreds of dollars less expensive and again, you have more options and are not limited like a transfer switch.


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## Columbotrek (11 mo ago)

I made a checklist for attaching and running the portable generator to the house for when someone else needs to do it. So far have completed a training session with the wife on how it is done with follow ups planned. I used a manual transfer switch because of the solar array. It is actually 10 little transfer switches that brings the backed up circuits off the main panel buss thus removing any conflict with the solar combiner. It was more expensive than adding an Interlock to the panel but I was going to need an interlock for 3 power sources instead of the usual 2 spread all over the panel. Yes we are limited to the HVAC and 8 other house circuits which I had to choose so not everything is on backup power directly. But I could still power the washer, gas dryer, dish washer, and disposer from near by powered outlets with extension cords if it came to that. In the meantime, I can run generator tests aginst household loads without switching everything over. Or I can leave say one of the least needed circuits on the utility line position to act as a utility power restored indicator. Finally, the utility panel is outside along an unlit wall where as the transfer switch it in the attached garage sheltered from the weather. I have used it to turn off circuits that needed to be worked on or reset without going out to the panel. Everything has it tradeoffs. For some a transfer switch makes sense.


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## Airstreamer67 (Oct 3, 2020)

I don't want to store an enormous amount of fuel and I don't have natural gas service, so I decided early-on to just power the 120V circuits in my home and forgo the conveniences of the electric water heater, the clothes dryer, the big range and oven, and the heat pump. Doing this, I usually burn less than one-half gallon of fuel per hour. That means running the house 24-hours-a-day takes about 12 gallons per day. For me, this is a reasonable rate for keeping enough fuel to last through most outages, since I keep about 75 gallons of diesel fuel, which would last more than 6 days on my 6000-watt diesel genset, and 25 gallons of gasoline, which would last a couple of days on my 4500-watt gasoline genset. 

To power my home during a power outage, my electrician put a switch behind the meter so that, when thrown, the home's 240V circuits still are connected to the grid, but the 120V circuits are connected to my genset. That way, when the grid again becomes energized, my 240V circuits automatically are energized and thus is the clock on my oven; and when I see that oven clock come "on," I know it's time to disconnect the genset, throw the switch to reconnect the 120V circuits to the grid, and resume 120V service for the home.

Works for me.


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## zz28zz (Nov 24, 2021)

There are a few options for gensets in your price range, however electricians, wiring and transfer switches add up quick.

Two avenues to consider.
1. Run extension cords from genset to everything you can plug in. (No A/C)
2. Install a transfer switch. You will need this if you want to run A/C. Transfer switches come in manual and auto flavors.

A/C will need a Soft Start (~$350+installation) unless you're running a really large genset. 

Other things to consider:
How much noise can you and the neighbors tolerate?
Can you store fuel safely?
How handy are you wiring 120/240V?
Can you get by w/o A/C?
How likely is it your wife/gf could do everything with no help?

My wife would freak out if I told her she needs to follow a checklist.


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## sledman8002002 (Jan 28, 2021)

zz28zz said:


> My wife would freak out if I told her she needs to follow a checklist.


It's funny because it's true. Thanks for the chuckle!!


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## Jager (5 mo ago)

zz28zz said:


> My wife would freak out if I told her she needs to follow a checklist.


I have a small flock of chickens and created a 2-page list of instructions for my wife on how to care for them when I'm away on one of my motorcycle trips. When I came back and glanced at the list still on the refrigerator door... she had penciled in her summary in bold letters at the bottom:

*Don't Let the Chickens Die!!!*


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## FlyFisher (Jun 30, 2018)

Jager said:


> I have a small flock of chickens and created a 2-page list of instructions for my wife on how to care for them when I'm away on one of my motorcycle trips. When I came back and glanced at the list still on the refrigerator door... she had penciled in her summary in bold letters at the bottom:
> 
> *Don't Let the Chickens Die!!!*


So that was her telling you she wasn't going to assist and follow your "list" - as in what happens if YOU walk away from the task with no back up. I see. 😉


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## NTgen (8 mo ago)

wesr228 said:


> Personally, I'd go with the https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200756204_200756204#
> 
> But probably not going to get a soft start and an electrician, and still be under $2,300. Also generators are getting scarce online right now, something about 2 million customers without power. I'd feel more comfortable securing the generator now and run cords. I could always have an electrician do the work next year if funding it all at one time was an issue. Don't let perfect be the enemy of "at least I have something and am not completely miserable and sad and using flashlights."
> 
> ...


After a lot of reading, the Northern Tool PowerHorse 7500i linked above is the one I bought as well. It powers our 4.5 Ton AC unit, without a soft-start, but it is a relatively new unit with really low LRA of 12.0 (Trane XV). I turn off the breaker for the electric hot water heater so that it will run the AC, and of course won't use the electric clothes dryer at the same time either. Very happy with it so far, about 30 hours on it powering the house via a 50A receptacle and manual lockout on the electric panel.


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## zz28zz (Nov 24, 2021)

NTgen said:


> After a lot of reading, the Northern Tool PowerHorse 7500i linked above is the one I bought as well. It powers our 4.5 Ton AC unit, without a soft-start, but it is a relatively new unit with really low LRA of 12.0 (Trane XV).


I'm assuming you got the inverter compressor on your home A/C? I was offered that when I got our Trane a coupe of years ago, but went with the old style.


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## NTgen (8 mo ago)

zz28zz said:


> I'm assuming you got the inverter compressor on your home A/C? I was offered that when I got our Trane a coupe of years ago, but went with the old style.


Yes, it is the XV18, variable speed compressor which is inverter-driven. It had been installed two years before we bought the house, so I guess we got lucky with that one.


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## MaXpeedingRods Generator (4 mo ago)

ToolLover said:


> You did not mention your age range.
> If you are elderly or partially disabled, then think, could my wife handle getting this set up to run the house.
> Believe you me the time will come.
> That should be a factor in your purchase.
> ...


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## pipe (Jun 27, 2021)

NTgen said:


> ..I turn off the breaker for the electric hot water heater so that it will run the AC..


With a 3-way switch you can easily flip the 4,500watts to consume 1,125watts and nothing will change the water heater except time of recovery ie. the time it takes to reach max temp. 

For a fun comparison, we run pool pump 24/7, water heater 24/7, four (4) tons of AC heatpumps 24/7 at 72F inside temp and 45% RH, three(3) refrigerators, servers, laptops, modem, printers, router etc .... all at below 2,900 watts of power with a 30amp connection to a honda eu7000isnan


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## NTgen (8 mo ago)

pipe said:


> With a 3-way switch you can easily flip the 4,500watts to consume 1,125watts and nothing will change the water heater except time of recovery ie. the time it takes to reach max temp.


How is this set up? Sounds like a good idea, I assume the switch is on the water heater 240v line?


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## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

NTgen said:


> How is this set up?


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## NTgen (8 mo ago)

Excellent, thanks @GenKnot


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