# Cummins 4500i No Start



## Mikek (Dec 11, 2021)

Good Afternoon. I have a Cummins Onan 4500i inverter generator that has only been run once for around 15 minutes, a couple months ago. This morning we had a power outage and I tried to start the generator and it failed to start. It has a full tank of fresh fuel and the oil level is just below the full mark. When I drain the fuel bowl there is fuel in it and when I hook a spark plug tester between the plug and the plug boot, it lights up? Does anyone have any recommendation on what I may troubleshoot next?
Thank You


----------



## Matt88-8 (Dec 27, 2018)

Does it do anything? Sputter? Or just crank?
If you didn't put fuel stabilizer in or run the carb dry it's likely gummed up.

Sent from my SM-G973W using Tapatalk


----------



## Mikek (Dec 11, 2021)

I did put stabil in it. It was never used before I got it around 2 months ago. I put in the oil, fuel, and Stabil and ran it for a little while and the shut it off and put it in the garage. Today it wouldnt start. I removed the jet on the top of the carb and made sure it wasnt gummed up. I wouldnt think it would gum up that fast. It turns over and makes a little pop every once in a while but thats it. The only light on the display that flashes says overload and is red? Thanks for the reply.


----------



## Dutchy491 (Sep 18, 2019)

Yep, you may have fresh fuel in the tank, but the residual fuel in the carburetor is probably the problem. Especially if that fuel has some ethanol content and no stabilizer was added. Carburetor needs cleaning and in the future drain the carburetor after the engine shuts down, besides 0-ethanol and stabilizer added to the fuel. Not sure why the overload light is on… unless that’s just an indication of not running.


----------



## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

try a bit of fuel in a spray bottle in the carb inlet and see if it will start.
if it tries to run:
from there 
check the carb bowl for fuel.
check the fuel feed to the carb.


----------



## Mikek (Dec 11, 2021)

Today I removed the carb and thoroughly cleaned every jet, passageway, and needle valve. I blew out every passageway. There was a small amount of brown stuff on the bottom of the float bowl. After cleaning everything, I put it back together and it still doesnt start. It doesnt even try. I know it has fuel because I can smell it after cranking and I also can open the float drain and fuel comes out. I even tried to use a small amount of starting fluid and it doesnt even attempt to fire. I pilled the plug and it was wet from fuel. I checked the gap and it was fine. I am going to go and buy a new spark plug as a next step. Is there possibly a fuse that could be bad or maybe some sort of shut off solenoid that could be bad? Is there some sort of coil that may have gone bad? I have a request into Cummins for support but It seems difficult to get any tech support these days.


----------



## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

new carb would be the best fix on the carb side and flush the fuel system and check the fuel screens

do you have both types of spark tester?
i will pm with you


----------



## Mikek (Dec 11, 2021)

When I pulled and cleaned the carb today it looked brand new. I have only ran the generator for around 15 minutes total. Maybe I have a clog in the fuel filter? Even if It was not getting any fuel, I would think that it would at least attempt to run if I sprayed starting fluid in the carb while cranking. I had nothing which makes me think it is a spark issue. I will get the air gap tester and focus a little more on the spark side. Thank You


----------



## Dutchy491 (Sep 18, 2019)

A new spark plug and Change the carburetor as suggested. You yourself admitted to gunk in the carburetor. The proper way to completely clean is in an ultrasound parts cleaner. Failing that, replace….


----------



## Mikek (Dec 11, 2021)

I will see about getting a new carb. They don't seem too expensive, just difficult to find.


----------



## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

2 months isn't long enough to turn gasoline enough to a point that it won't even ignite. I draw the line at around 6 months, especially if it's untreated ethanol blend.

You didn't say whether or not it's a brand new generator. Because if it is, I'd just use the warranty to have it serviced.


----------



## Mikek (Dec 11, 2021)

I did put stabilizer in the fuel when I filled it a couple months ago, I also ran the carb dry when I shut it off the time I ran it. It is a brand new generator but unfortunately I wasn't the one that bought it. I bought a used 2021 travel trailer from a guy and he through in the generator. It was brand new and didnt even have the oil put in it yet nor had the battery hooked up. I put in the oil, hooked up the battery and put treated fuel in the tank and it fired right up and ran great. I shut the fuel off and let it stall and then stored it in the garage.


----------



## Dutchy491 (Sep 18, 2019)

You missed the part about draining the carburetor after stalling the engine. There’s always a couple of tablespoons of gas in the carburetor bowl…which will evaporate quickly especially during the summer heat. Gunk you get.


----------



## speedy2019 (Jan 29, 2019)

I use stabilzer but I dont drain my carb, as I dont like the engine coughing and spluttering as it runs out of fuel. If I leave the gen longer then a month it takes longer to start.


----------



## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

Yeah, even though draining the bowl thoroughly is best practice, it's unlikely to be a cause for concern for treated gas that's been there for less than 100 days.

Air, gas, spark, timing, and compression. Of course there are other nuances, but start being systematic with the basics. If it has a recoil, you can feel for compression.

Check that the actuators for the choke and throttle are not stuck. While cranking, you should see the choke alternate between open and close.

Post a video of the relevant parts of the generator, like the carb, while it is cranking.... some eagle-eyed or keen-eared members might be able to figure out what's preventing it from running.


----------



## Dutchy491 (Sep 18, 2019)

speedy2019 said:


> I use stabilzer but I dont drain my carb, as I dont like the engine coughing and spluttering as it runs out of fuel. If I leave the gen longer then a month it takes longer to start.


Okay….


----------



## Mikek (Dec 11, 2021)

I will try to figure out how to post a video next weekend when I get a chance to continue working on it again. Thanks for all of the help.


----------



## ronskal (Feb 18, 2021)

I owned the Westinghouse version for a bit until it failed and I returned it. Your problem is not the same as mine (no spark) but it is likely an inoperative automatic choke.
Possibly the lead from the auto-choke is detached from a board on the RH lower part of Gen behind control panel. You-Tube has videos on this issue with the Westinghouse.
Westinghouse has issued bulletins about this and you can search.
To verify, pull side cover opposite the oil fill side, view the auto-choke cycling during engine start/crank. It has a plastic lever that you can manually move to the choke position if it's unresponsive.
The Cummins and Westinghouse are probably built in the same plant in Vietnam. Super nice design but lacking in assembly quality. Mine failed due to this lacking. Warranty repair for me was a 2 month wait so I returned the unit.


----------



## Mikek (Dec 11, 2021)

I already checked that and it seems like the choke is cycling properly. I am leaning towards a spark issue because it should have at least tried to fire up when i sprayed starting fluid in the carb or when i put a little gas in the cylinder.


----------



## ToolLover (Jan 13, 2020)

My guess is that you have used gas with 10% ethanol and let it sit without draining the carb. 
New carbs do not do well with ethanol.


----------



## ronskal (Feb 18, 2021)

Mikek said:


> I already checked that and it seems like the choke is cycling properly. I am leaning towards a spark issue because it should have at least tried to fire up when i sprayed starting fluid in the carb or when i put a little gas in the cylinder.


Looks like you are where I ended up with ignition problems. Always try a new spark plug of course (the OEM Torch plugs are iffy), and measure coil resistance. New coils are about $15.
My Westinghouse had a loose ground which may have caused it, see photo where I found it. One ground may have gone to the ignition module. Ignition modules have been known to fail on these.
It's a jigsaw puzzle to remove the oil door side cover on the Westinghouse. Good luck.


----------



## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

Mikek said:


> I already checked that and it seems like the choke is cycling properly. I am leaning towards a spark issue because it should have at least tried to fire up when i sprayed starting fluid in the carb or when i put a little gas in the cylinder.


If you don’t have a spark tester you can at least pull the wire off the plug and hold it close enough to watch for the spark to jump. 

If it doesn’t start on starting fluid you can pretty much assume your losing spark as well.


----------



## McCorby (Apr 26, 2021)

ToolLover said:


> My guess is that you have used gas with 10% ethanol and let it sit without draining the carb.
> New carbs do not do well with ethanol.


They said they tried using starting fluid. Provided it is not badly flooded, it should have at least fired for brief time no matter if the carb is dirty/gummed up. They stated they got nothing when using the starting fluid. My armchair guess would be that it’s a spark related issue, assuming they have good compression.


----------



## Matt88-8 (Dec 27, 2018)

Those crappy China spark plugs give me all kinds of headaches. I've seen them spark fine cold and suddenly give up when they get hot.
Randomly not spark or have weak spark. Toss them immediately on any small engine and get a NGK plug. 

Sent from my SM-G973W using Tapatalk


----------



## VelvetFoot (Nov 11, 2019)

Did you say you tested for spark? Does it have one of those new stupid combo switches? If no spark, maybe a wire is loose from a connection on the switch,


----------



## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

or a 1/2 shorted on off switch. with water


----------



## Mikek (Dec 11, 2021)

I replaced the spark plug yesterday with zero results in starting. I have been searching for the correct carburetor for a replacement but the manual part number doesn't show much. How do I tell which carburetor is a direct replacement?


----------



## Mikek (Dec 11, 2021)

VelvetFoot said:


> Did you say you tested for spark? Does it have one of those new stupid combo switches? If no spark, maybe a wire is loose from a connection on the switch,


The main switch on the front? Yes I tested for a spark with 2 different types of testers and I have a spark.


----------



## Mikek (Dec 11, 2021)

iowagold said:


> or a 1/2 shorted on off switch. with water


Would I just test the switch for continuity? I can see that the stepper motor works the choke automatically. How does the rear throttle plate operate? Does it also open and close automatically? What controls the throttle? Last night I could see small blue explosions in the carb when I had the airbox cover removed. Maybe the throttle is stuck closed?


----------



## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

The throttle should be wide open while cranking.


----------



## Mikek (Dec 11, 2021)

Matt88-8 said:


> Those crappy China spark plugs give me all kinds of headaches. I've seen them spark fine cold and suddenly give up when they get hot.
> Randomly not spark or have weak spark. Toss them immediately on any small engine and get a NGK plug.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G973W using Tapatalk


I installed a new Champion spark plug yesterday. Ii have used one of the air gap spark plug testers and can see a spark.


----------



## Mikek (Dec 11, 2021)

OrlyP said:


> The throttle should be wide open while cranking.


I will try to see if the throttle is open. When I was trying to start it yesterday I could see the choke plate open and close and see little blue combustions in the carburetor but never fired up. This weekend I will try to drain the fuel from the tank and replace it. The fuel is less than 2 months old and had fuel stabilizer in it but I am willing to try anything at this point. There appear to be 2 motors on top of the carb, 1 choke and 1 throttle. I will have to look if the throttle seems to be moving at all?


----------



## Matt88-8 (Dec 27, 2018)

Mikek said:


> I will try to see if the throttle is open. When I was trying to start it yesterday I could see the choke plate open and close and see little blue combustions in the carburetor but never fired up. This weekend I will try to drain the fuel from the tank and replace it. The fuel is less than 2 months old and had fuel stabilizer in it but I am willing to try anything at this point. There appear to be 2 motors on top of the carb, 1 choke and 1 throttle. I will have to look if the throttle seems to be moving at all?


The throttle and choke plates should both move as required by the inverter board. You cannot control them. But, with the ignition off, they should move by light finger pressure. Make sure they don't stick.

Your getting carried away. The best way to diagnose something is one thing at a time.
You have spark. Put the plug back in and move on. Next we try to get it to kick of brake clean/starter fluid.

Remove the carb. The choke plate should close and the throttle plate should be open when the ignition is ON. If the choke one doesn't move, that's fine. If both are open the machine would start/kick/cough etc on starter fluid. 

If the carb is open, and you have spark your now onto mechanical. Perhaps the decompression is stuck open, it's dropped a valve etc. 

Don't replace ANYTHING more than $5 until your sure of your diag!
(spark plugs are cheap enough and wear out enough to get replaced whenever your suspicious)

Sent from my SM-G973W using Tapatalk


----------



## Old electrical guy (Jul 29, 2021)

Mikek said:


> Good Afternoon. I have a Cummins Onan 4500i inverter generator that has only been run once for around 15 minutes, a couple months ago. This morning we had a power outage and I tried to start the generator and it failed to start. It has a full tank of fresh fuel and the oil level is just below the full mark. When I drain the fuel bowl there is fuel in it and when I hook a spark plug tester between the plug and the plug boot, it lights up? Does anyone have any recommendation on what I may troubleshoot next?
> Thank You


Hard to help from a distance. Here's what I would do because you want your generator to work. You don't specify weather is diesel or gasoline. If it's diesel I would dump all the fuel put a new fuel filter on it and I'm focused on the fuel distributor. If it's gasoline I've start what's my road recap and all my plug wires and all my plugs and replace every bit of it. Yeah it's a little bit of money but you want it to work when you want it to work.I hope I was of some help to you probably not but let me know how it turns out for you


----------



## SnaykeByte (Mar 31, 2021)

I have had 2 of these, both Westinghouse...........same thing. The reason it won't start is because of the way the software is written in the ECM. If you take the cover off the side where the carb is and try to start, watch how the servo works the choke. When it starts to crank, the choke will close and then immediately fully open. This is why it will not start. Stick your finger in there and hold the choke closed and it will start. I have dealt with this for a year only to have Westinghouse send me all kinds of parts to change and then a whole new genny. Same problem. Bad design.


----------



## rotorgoat313 (Nov 3, 2021)

If you're getting compression then the valves are working OK. You can check that by holding your thumb over the spark plug hole and turning it over. If the spark plug is wet with fuel when you remove it then you're getting fuel. Did you test the spark while it's connected to the spark plug lead by holding it against the frame and checking it while cranking it over? Checking the plug outside of the gens system only checks the spark plug. There could be issues with the ignition system.


----------



## Dutchy491 (Sep 18, 2019)

I think Snakebite may be onto something, especially as he has firsthand experience. Try his suggestion and hold that butterfly closed until she starts….


----------



## Mikek (Dec 11, 2021)

I tried to hold the choke closed and it didnt do anything except make it smell like it was flooding.


Matt88-8 said:


> The throttle and choke plates should both move as required by the inverter board. You cannot control them. But, with the ignition off, they should move by light finger pressure. Make sure they don't stick.
> 
> Your getting carried away. The best way to diagnose something is one thing at a time.
> You have spark. Put the plug back in and move on. Next we try to get it to kick of brake clean/starter fluid.
> ...


I have already replaced the spark plug. It will not fire up with starter fluid. I have compression. I am thinking some sort of safety shut off switch. I am waiting to hear from Cummins to see if they can help? I will work on it more this weekend. Cummins did send me the service manual.


----------



## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

Any update on the throttle condition while cranking?

Do try to post a video while cranking.. especially at the moving parts on the carb. Oftentimes, even just from the sound it makes can give telltale signs of what's going on.


----------



## Mikek (Dec 11, 2021)

The throttle is open and the choke is closed when it tries to start. I will try to take a video tomorrow after work. Thank You


----------



## Mt.Power (Aug 11, 2021)

OP, get some brand new premium fuel and try that. If that fails, at least you will have put fuel to rest as a cause.


----------



## Mikek (Dec 11, 2021)

I plan on draining the tank and putting in some fresh premium this weekend as well as replacing the filter.


----------



## Dutchy491 (Sep 18, 2019)

The importance is 0-e gas, not whether it’s premium or not… I’m still thinking a replacement carb is the ticket.


----------



## Mikek (Dec 11, 2021)

Dutchy491 said:


> The importance is 0-e gas, not whether it’s premium or not… I’m still thinking a replacement carb is the ticket.


How do I tell what model the Carb is? I know the brand but I cant seem to find a model that corresponds with the numbers printed on the side of the carb? I assume that the black motor on the top of the carb will need to be removed and put on the new carb?


----------



## Markar (Aug 16, 2020)

Mikek said:


> Good Afternoon. I have a Cummins Onan 4500i inverter generator that has only been run once for around 15 minutes, a couple months ago. This morning we had a power outage and I tried to start the generator and it failed to start. It has a full tank of fresh fuel and the oil level is just below the full mark. When I drain the fuel bowl there is fuel in it and when I hook a spark plug tester between the plug and the plug boot, it lights up? Does anyone have any recommendation on what I may troubleshoot next?
> Thank You


Try this one system at a time.
Remove the spark plug and spray carburetor cleaner into the cylinder .
Reinstall the spark plug and try to start it. 
If it starts your issue is fuel and not ignition system. Make sure you have the generator all set to start once the spark plug is in. The carb cleaner evaporates a lot faster than gasoline. Lastly make sure there no load on the generator. Carburetor cleaner dose not have any octane. A few seconds running without a load is ok. 
That’s all I have .
Good luck, Markar


----------



## Mikek (Dec 11, 2021)

Markar said:


> Try this one system at a time.
> Remove the spark plug and spray carburetor cleaner into the cylinder .
> Reinstall the spark plug and try to start it.
> If it starts your issue is fuel and not ignition system. Make sure you have the generator all set to start once the spark plug is in. The carb cleaner evaporates a lot faster than gasoline. Lastly make sure there no load on the generator. Carburetor cleaner dose not have any octane. A few seconds running without a load is ok.
> ...


I did that and it did not fire.


----------



## Mikek (Dec 11, 2021)

OrlyP said:


> Any update on the throttle condition while cranking?
> 
> Do try to post a video while cranking.. especially at the moving parts on the carb. Oftentimes, even just from the sound it makes can give telltale signs of what's going on.


----------



## Mikek (Dec 11, 2021)

I have posted a video showing the carb and how it doesn't start. I can also do one of the spark test if it would help?


----------



## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

Doesn’t it look like the throttle is stuck on idle? Is the throttle stop resting on the idle screw?


----------



## McCorby (Apr 26, 2021)

Mikek said:


> I have posted a video showing the carb and how it doesn't start. I can also do one of the spark test if it would help?


Are you sure you have good compression? It could just be me, but something doesn’t sound right to me in your video. Do you have access to a compression gauge? Have you removed the valve cover and checked valve operation and lash?
Again, I have a hard time believing it’s a carb issue if it won’t pop/start with starting fluid.


----------



## Mikek (Dec 11, 2021)

McCorby said:


> Are you sure you have good compression? It could just be me, but something doesn’t sound right to me in your video. Do you have access to a compression gauge? Have you removed the valve cover and checked valve operation and lash?
> Again, I have a hard time believing it’s a carb issue if it won’t pop/start with starting fluid.


I do have a compression gauge somewhere in the garage. I will try to find it this weekend. What should the reading be? I have not removed the valve cover. I would not know how to check those items.


----------



## Mikek (Dec 11, 2021)

OrlyP said:


> Doesn’t it look like the throttle is stuck on idle? Is the throttle stop resting on the idle screw?


It moves inward and stops on the gray post that has the little plastic screw in it. I can manually move it out but it returns to all the way in. I want to make sure that that screw isnt adjustable? I took it out when I cleaned the idle jet and just screwed it in all the way?


----------



## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

McCorby said:


> Are you sure you have good compression? It could just be me, but something doesn’t sound right to me in your video. Do you have access to a compression gauge? Have you removed the valve cover and checked valve operation and lash?
> Again, I have a hard time believing it’s a carb issue if it won’t pop/start with starting fluid.


That, too. It doesn't sound like there's resistance while cranking.


----------



## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

Mikek said:


> It moves inward and stops on the gray post that has the little plastic screw in it. I can manually move it out but it returns to all the way in. I want to make sure that that screw isnt adjustable? I took it out when I cleaned the idle jet and just screwed it in all the way?


Hmm... strange. It should move the other way (open). Once it starts running, it will begin to move inward (towards the camera) to idle.


----------



## oldcodger (Sep 13, 2021)

I agree with OrlyP, that thing does not sound right. I bet it has no compression because of a valve open. Pull the plug and put your finger over the plug hole and crank on it. I bet you feel nothing.


----------



## McCorby (Apr 26, 2021)

Mikek said:


> I do have a compression gauge somewhere in the garage. I will try to find it this weekend. What should the reading be? I have not removed the valve cover. I would not know how to check those items.


It depends on the engine, but I would think you should have at least 80-90psi to run. In your video it sorta sounds like you’re cranking it with the spark plug removed (I.e. no compression).


----------



## Mikek (Dec 11, 2021)

OrlyP said:


> That, too. It doesn't sound like there's resistance while cranking.


You were correct. I pulled the rocker cover and one of the valves does not move when I pull the cord, the other valve does. I also feel air come out from the one valve that is stuck. Does this mean that I am screwed or is there a way to unstick and adjust the valve?


----------



## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

Mikek said:


> You were correct. I pulled the rocker cover and one of the valves does not move when I pull the cord, the other valve does. I also feel air come out from the one valve that is stuck. Does this mean that I am screwed or is there a way to unstick and adjust the valve?


Now you're on to something.

Post a video. It's really hard to diagnose something you can't see. 

Compression was brought up earlier but really, nobody would've thought a new generator would have such issue. However rare, it does happen. Thank McCorby for asserting it's likely a valve issue.


----------



## Mikek (Dec 11, 2021)

Yes thank you McCorby. I am able to push on the bottom of the rocker arm and it unsticks but when i pull the cord ( very slowly) it stick again. Should I video it trying to turn over with the OVC cover removed and the plug out or in?


----------



## Mikek (Dec 11, 2021)

It is the valve on the right. I can push down on the bottom and it will unstick.


----------



## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

Do you mean that the push rod popped off the rocker arm? The rocker arm studs might be loose. Do either rocker arms rattle more than a few millimeters?


----------



## Mikek (Dec 11, 2021)

OrlyP said:


> Do you mean that the push rod popped off the rocker arm? The rocker arm studs might be loose. Do either rocker arms rattle more than a few millimeters?


I don't fully understand the question but nothing became detached. The rocker arm on the left was stuck on the top where the spring is. I pushed on the bottom and it became unstuck. I pulled the cord and it would stick again. I sprayed some pb blaster around it and then pushed again to make it unstick. Now when i pull the cord both rocker arms move like I think they are supposed to. What would cause the valve to stick like that? Should I check and adjust something up there? I cant find my feeler gauge but I can pick one up tomorrow.


----------



## Mikek (Dec 11, 2021)




----------



## Mikek (Dec 11, 2021)

Mikek said:


>


The one on the right was stuck at the top?


----------



## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

So it seems that the valve stem might be binding. Put a few drops of motor oil on the valve stem and hopefully it doesn't get stuck in the future. Maybe the low running hours haven't given the oil much chance to leave a residue on it.

While you're pulling the rope, it does sound like there's compression now. Install the valve cover and see if it starts up. But check the oil level first and make sure it's in the full mark.


----------



## Mikek (Dec 11, 2021)

OrlyP said:


> So it seems that the valve stem might be binding. Put a few drops of motor oil on the valve stem and hopefully it doesn't get stuck in the future. Maybe the low running hours haven't given the oil much chance to leave a residue on it.
> 
> While you're pulling the rope, it does sound like there's compression now. Install the valve cover and see if it starts up. But check the oil level first and make sure it's in the full mark.


Thank you. Tomorrow I am going to get some no ethenol fuel and I will try again. I will let you know how it goes. Thanks again for the help.


----------



## Mikek (Dec 11, 2021)

Out of general curiosity, what would cause an intake valve to stick on an engine that has barely been run? Would it generally be the valve that is sticking or the push rod? Also how does the rocker arm and intake valve get lubricated? I didnt see much if any oil under the valve cover when I removed it. Usually I can find something on Google or you tube that would explain this but I cant find anything.


----------



## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

I just took your word for it.... that the valve themselves were stuck.

It's unlikely to be the pushrods, rather, it's possible that the tappets/lifters are the ones binding. Only you will be able to know for sure since you're there.


----------



## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

bad sign on the no oil under the valve cover.
use a high zddp oil to help in the break in.
heavy coat all of the top end parts under the valve cover.
you make have to make a dam to help on this.
and pull over by hand the engine while soaked to make sure it works in.

you could have a broken oil slinger in the crank case.
with out an inspection tear down an inspection camera is the only way to see inside through the oil fill hole.
unless it has a large drain plug for the inspection camera.
drain the oil and look for trash or signs of metal or plastic.

the only other thing is super high gas content in the oil.
washing down every thing...


----------



## Mikek (Dec 11, 2021)

Thanks Paul. I didnt see your post until just now. Earlier today I soaked down the items under the valve cover with oil and turned it over by hand a lot. I also checked and adjusted the valve clearance a little. After putting everything back together and putting in some fresh no ethanol fuel, it fired right up. I ran it for over an hour at 25% load since i only have around 25 minutes on it. This weekend i was hoping to run it another few hours and then drain the oil but I will probably drain the oil and check it as you suggested. If It had a broken oil slinger, would it have run the hour without seizing up? Thanks to you, OrlyP, and everyone else in this forum for helping me get it running, it is much appreciated.


----------



## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

All good action items. Break it in under varying loads and keep an eye and ear on it for any observable changes in behavior. Let’s hope it’s just a one off fluke that never happens again.

I’m thinking maybe surface rust from condensation forming causing parts to bind. Running it a few hours should get rid of it and coat said parts thoroughly with oil.


----------



## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

Mikek said:


> Thanks Paul. I didnt see your post until just now. Earlier today I soaked down the items under the valve cover with oil and turned it over by hand a lot. I also checked and adjusted the valve clearance a little. After putting everything back together and putting in some fresh no ethanol fuel, it fired right up. I ran it for over an hour at 25% load since i only have around 25 minutes on it. This weekend i was hoping to run it another few hours and then drain the oil but I will probably drain the oil and check it as you suggested. If It had a broken oil slinger, would it have run the hour without seizing up? Thanks to you, OrlyP, and everyone else in this forum for helping me get it running, it is much appreciated.


i would check the upper valve cover area while running to see if oil is getting up in the area.
the bad news is oil gets every where so plan on oil spray etc if you run with the valve cover off for test.

and yes on the broken slinger and run time.
cool on the run up.
the bit of oil you placed in there will hold the system for a bit during a run.
head and upper cyl lube is always tricky on a new gen set...
you want oil with out too much to make carbon.

yea look for trash. and run oil magnets as well they sure help!
at least on the magnetic trash in the oil.

keep an eye on it maybe do a 100 hour in stages run in or break in to make sure after this before the day you have to have power.
checking and changing oil along the way.


----------



## pipe (Jun 27, 2021)

Checking and adjusting valve lash
must be done when the engine is cold.
1. Remove the rocker arm cover and carefully remove the
gasket. If the gasket is torn or damaged, it must be
replaced.
2. Remove the spark plug so the engine can be rotated
more easily.
3. Rotate the engine to top dead center (TDC) of the
compression stroke. Looking through the spark plug
hole, the piston should be at the top
4. Both the rocker arms should be loose at TDC on
the compression stroke. If they are not, rotate the
engine 360°.
5. Insert a feeler gauge between the rocker arm and
the push rod and check for clearance 
6. If an adjustment is required, hold the adjusting nut and
loosen the jam nut.
7. Turn the adjusting nut to obtain the correct valve lash.
When the valve lash is correct, hold the adjusting nut and
tighten the jam nut to 106 in-lb (12 N•m).
8. Recheck the valve lash after tightening the jam nut.
9. Perform this procedure for both the intake and exhaust
valves.
10. Install the rocker arm cover, gasket and spark plug


----------

