# Bad generator or what???



## Dumbass (Dec 27, 2021)

New to the forum. I tried searching the forum to get hints on what could be causing my particular issue but did not find anything. I don’t know if my new generator is bad or if my house wiring is bad.

I have a WEN8750 Inverter Gen bought new. Before I got the gen an electrician put in a 50A (4prong) outside inlet box installed along with an Interlock system for the breaker box and a 50A breaker in the breaker box for the gen. When I finally got a gen and hooked it up it blew out some LED lights (same brand cheap ones - did not blow out better ones I had) and a surge protector in the house. The gen did not run any of the breakers I tried such as refrigerator. I disconnected gen from house and everything ran as it should from main power. I was rushed when I did the above test because we were leaving that day to see family and I blamed any failure or screw up on my being in a hurry. 

Fast forward to our return and I tried again. This time another surge protector blew out. I tried each breaker one at a time to see if I was getting power. The lights came on in only one room. In another room if I flipped the switch the light came on and then immediately went off. Nothing else worked in the house. After shutting down the gen and going back to main power everything worked as it should.

Electricity is not an area I am good at and I do not know all the terms. However, I did use a multimeter and found power from the gen, power at the inlet box and power at the 50A gen breaker in the power box.

Blowing out the 2 surge protectors (if that is really what they were - I threw them away but they may have just been mulitplug extensions) Made me think surging power which some stuff I read said might be caused by a poor ground. The WEN has a floating neutral I think and my limited understanding was that if used through the breaker box it would use the house ground. Also the 120/240 plug coming off the gen is a L14-30R and I am using an adapter to plug it into the 4 prong 50A inlet box. 

I did swap out the inlet box the electrician put in for better one but don’t think that is the problem since the first test failure was on the box the electrician put in and the second fail was on the one I swapped in. I was a little confused with the 2 ground wires coming out of the house but I tried running the gen with one house ground attached to the box and not attached and no different results. 

I don’t know anyone with a generator that I could borrow to see if my gen is just crap. I am thinking I need to get an electrician up here but I am still reeling from sticker shock at having the inlet box, interlock and breaker installed. Has anyone heard of anything similar to my problem?


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## McCorby (Apr 26, 2021)

edit: never mind. I see you used a multimeter!


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## Dumbass (Dec 27, 2021)

McCorby said:


> edit: never mind. I see you used a multimeter!


Yes I showed 240 at the generator, 240 at the inlet box and 240 at the generator breaker.


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## Mike M (Sep 5, 2021)

_"plug coming off the gen is a L14-30R and I am using an adapter to plug it into the 4 prong 50A inlet "_

just a thought:
Maybe there is an issue with the adapter (reversed polarity / some other weirdness)?

The above has happened to me...I had an adapter that-did-reverse-polarity.....

I would first go to the generator and check if the power output is ok (plug in basic stuff first; clip light, then a fan, then a space heater....).

Once the power at the gen is ok'd, check downstream...


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## Dumbass (Dec 27, 2021)

Mike M said:


> _"plug coming off the gen is a L14-30R and I am using an adapter to plug it into the 4 prong 50A inlet "_
> 
> just a thought:
> Maybe there is an issue with the adapter (reversed polarity / some other weirdness)?
> ...


I did plug a few things into the 110v outlets to see if generator was putting out power but I didn’t have anything that matched the 30A 120v/240v plug.

I did check voltage inside the inlet box with a multimeter and it showed 240v but I don’t know what a reverse polarity would look like. I will look it up.


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## FlyFisher (Jun 30, 2018)

If you have a multimeter you are in good shape to trace down where the issue is. 

Do you have an extension cord you can run from an outlet that will reach the generator outside? 

Unplug the generator, turn all the breakers on (or at least the one of the circuit your extension cord is plugged in to) and test continuity through the neutral pin of the L14-30 (opposite the ground pin - ground pin is the largest pin so directly across it, might be labeled "N") and the wide blade of the extension cord. You should have continuity. 

Next - check continuity between the grounds and neutrals. Ground and neutral are (should be) bonded in the breaker box at the service entrance. You should have continuity between neutrals and grounds of all parts of the circuits, through sub panels, etc (the bonding is in the entrance panel, the bonding should not be in a sub - that causes a ground loop). 

Next - check continuity between the narrow blade (the hot pin) of the extension cord and either X or Y pins of the L14-30. You should find continuity on only one.

At the end of the day what should happen is that pins X and Y of the L14-30 should have continuity to each hot rail in the breaker box.

If the connections are proper through the connectors then the next question is the voltage and frequency of the power. 240v is a pretty ubiquitous number. It may fall somewhere between 230-245v or so. However, that should ONLY be measured across both hot pins (X, Y) of the L14-30 - which would correspond to the hot rails in the breaker box (why you have 2 pole breakers for 240 - to bridge both rails, as opposed to one for a 120v circuit). If you are getting 240v between either single rail and neutral you have a problem. 

The frequency should be very close to 60hz, maybe only one or two hz either side at most.

I would also highly recommend that you ground the generator frame at the generator. Technically, with a properly wired set of connectors/cables, your neutral and ground wires of the 4 conductor cable from the generator to the breaker box will tie the generator to the house ground system through the breaker box. However, it is always best to have a ground at the generator itself that doesn't rely on that cabling.


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## Dumbass (Dec 27, 2021)

Dumbass said:


> I did plug a few things into the 110v outlets to see if generator was putting out power but I didn’t have anything that matched the 30A 120v/240v plug.
> 
> I did check voltage inside the inlet box with a multimeter and it showed 240v but I don’t know what a reverse polarity would look like. I will look it up.


OK got it. It is possible that the wires in the inlet box are crossed. I marked them exactly as they were in the original box so I would reattach them the same as the electrician had. Didn’t see how if the polarity was reversed I would only get one breaker to work with generator. But it is something for me to check. Thanks.


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## FlyFisher (Jun 30, 2018)

Dumbass said:


> but I don’t know what a reverse polarity would look like. I will look it up.


I covered this in my post above - if your neutral is hot is you're "reversed". Neutral and ground should have continuity, you have 2 hots - pins X and Y of the L14-30 - and those are the only pins that should be hot back to the hot rails of the breaker box.


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## FlyFisher (Jun 30, 2018)

FlyFisher said:


> I covered this in my post above - if your neutral is hot is you're "reversed". Neutral and ground should have continuity, you have 2 hots - pins X and Y of the L14-30 - and those are the only pins that should be hot back to the hot rails of the breaker box.





Dumbass said:


> OK got it. It is possible that the wires in the inlet box are crossed. I marked them exactly as they were in the original box so I would reattach them the same as the electrician had. Didn’t see how if the polarity was reversed I would only get one breaker to work with generator. But it is something for me to check. Thanks.


Just a note about "reversed polarity" now that I read your last reply there - if you flip X and Y around it won't hurt a thing. All that does is change the phasing. Any power device you plug in won't have any possible clue X and Y are Y and X or X and Y. Its all the same.

What WILL matter is if you try to load neutral. On a 120v circuit if you switch the hot and neutral lines you still have 60hz 120v AC power. But some devices can not handle neutral being the hot side. Some devices don't care, but not all. Plus a lot of devices will fault out if they don't sense continuity between neutral and ground.

There is a chance that the above is what blew out the LED lights - the circuitry that lets them run on 120v AC may not be able to handle a "hot neutral" circuit. However, I would find it hard to imagine anyone messing up neutral on a whole house circuit as it is bonded to ground in the breaker box and the vast majority of generators have neutral bonded to the gen frame, which is also connected to the ground pin of the power connectors on the unit. So me thinks you would blow something first before you were able to get power even to the house if you tried to load neutral.

So why are there 2 wires that supposedly are connected together? Couldn't you get by with 3 wires and not 4 and lower the cost of connectors and cables? You can't pass current over ground per code. Current has to run between hot and neutral on a 120v circuit, where ground is retained as a safety. In order to stabilize the circuits - neutral is grounded so it is pulled to 0v. If it was left floating (non-bonded) you could have some strange scenarios where one side goes high and one side goes low. Neutral referenced to ground helps protect the voltages.

There are some circuits you may find, like electric ranges and ovens, that are 240v appliances running on 3 pin connectors that use 120v lighting and controls where they get that 120v between one hot and ground (because the power connector does not carry neutral). I don't believe this is code anymore, but you will find some circuits set up that way. The issue with that set up is that in order to run anything on 120v without neutral you have to pass current over ground - and that isn't proper.


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## Dumbass (Dec 27, 2021)

FlyFisher said:


> If you have a multimeter you are in good shape to trace down where the issue is.
> 
> Do you have an extension cord you can run from an outlet that will reach the generator outside?
> 
> ...


That is a lot to digest. I am not even sure what continuity is but will look it up. I have regular 110 v extension cords but I don’t have anything to plug the 30A cord into except the 50A inlet box using the 30 to 50 adapter. 

The breaker is a 2 pole and I put one probe on the screw for each pole and it read 240v. 

Thanks. I am going to have to study your post. Lol.


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## FlyFisher (Jun 30, 2018)

Dumbass said:


> I am not even sure what continuity is but will look it up. I have regular 110 v extension cords


Continuity is exactly that - is there a connection? Does one pin conduct to the other? Another way to think of it is low resistance. If you have a good connection the resistance should be near 0 ohms. A bad connection would be very high ohms, or infinite/open circuit. Most multimeters have a setting for continuity, but a resistance check can work also. 

A regular 110v extension cord is exactly what I meant. It carries neutral and that is the most important connection in what I was getting at with the "checks". 

Again, I would find it hard to believe neutral being loaded as hot but worth a check. 

I will say, it might be best to get your electrician back over there that put the inlet box in. I assume the person that did that install is a licensed electrician. Technically you need a licensed electrician to do any wiring in the breaker box. Given your doubts with things and the blown lights that would be the best thing - have a proper electrician check it over.


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## Dumbass (Dec 27, 2021)

FlyFisher said:


> Just a note about "reversed polarity" now that I read your last reply there - if you flip X and Y around it won't hurt a thing. All that does is change the phasing. Any power device you plug in won't have any possible clue X and Y are Y and X or X and Y. Its all the same.
> 
> What WILL matter is if you try to load neutral. On a 120v circuit if you switch the hot and neutral lines you still have 60hz 120v AC power. But some devices can not handle neutral being the hot side. Some devices don't care, but not all. Plus a lot of devices will fault out if they don't sense continuity between neutral and ground.
> 
> ...


 It is not suppose to snow tomorrow and will be a balmy high of 18 deg so I may venture outside tomorrow and try to follow your instructions. Thanks again.


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## ToolLover (Jan 13, 2020)

I did not read all of the posts, but I am curious: Did you turn the main breaker off before you plugged the generator in the first time?


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## Dumbass (Dec 27, 2021)

FlyFisher said:


> Continuity is exactly that - is there a connection? Does one pin conduct to the other? Another way to think of it is low resistance. If you have a good connection the resistance should be near 0 ohms. A bad connection would be very high ohms, or infinite/open circuit. Most multimeters have a setting for continuity, but a resistance check can work also.
> 
> A regular 110v extension cord is exactly what I meant. It carries neutral and that is the most important connection in what I was getting at with the "checks".
> 
> ...


Yes it was a licensed electrician. I realize that I am in up to my chin but the only way to learn is to do. Once I am convinced the generator is good then I will most likely bring in an electrician. Thanks!


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## Dumbass (Dec 27, 2021)

ToolLover said:


> I did not read all of the posts, but I am curious: Did you turn the main breaker off before you plugged the generator in the first time?


Yes. I have an interlock system installed. Main has to be pushed to OFF, then shut all breakers off, then lift interlock and slide gen breaker to on.


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

Can you describe your generator cord in more detail?

Is your cord custom built or a store bought. What plug ends are present on the cord. And what brand adapter are you using. Pictures would be useful.

Personally, it sounds like a poor connection somewhere between the generator and the breaker in the panel.


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## Dumbass (Dec 27, 2021)

drmerdp said:


> Can you describe your generator cord in more detail?
> 
> Is your cord custom built or a store bought. What plug ends are present on the cord. And what brand adapter are you using. Pictures would be useful.
> 
> Personally, it sounds like a poor connection somewhere between the generator and the breaker in the panel.



























The first 2 pics are the adapter which is a: RvSky Gen to Transfer Switch 50Amp inlet box adapter ( L14-30 30Amp 4-prong locking to 50Amp CS6364 ).

The last is of the prongs on the 30Amp extension cord. It is a: Circle Cord UL Listed 4 prong 30Amp gen extension cord heavy duty NEMA L14-30P / L14-30R 125/250v 7500w 10 gauge SJTW. The cord is 100 feet long and from what I read, that length would not impair function.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

Dumbass said:


> New to the forum. I tried searching the forum to get hints on what could be causing my particular issue but did not find anything. I don’t know if my new generator is bad or if my house wiring is bad.
> 
> I have a WEN8750 Inverter Gen bought new. Before I got the gen an electrician put in a 50A (4prong) outside inlet box installed along with an Interlock system for the breaker box and a 50A breaker in the breaker box for the gen. When I finally got a gen and hooked it up it blew out some LED lights (same brand cheap ones - did not blow out better ones I had) and a surge protector in the house. The gen did not run any of the breakers I tried such as refrigerator. I disconnected gen from house and everything ran as it should from main power. I was rushed when I did the above test because we were leaving that day to see family and I blamed any failure or screw up on my being in a hurry.
> 
> ...


verify all wires on the cords and the connections.
somewhere you have a couple of wire flipped.
check the updated inlet.
pm if you need wiring diagrams.
i have color coded diagrams


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## LaSwamp (Mar 16, 2021)

iowagold said:


> verify all wires on the cords and the connections.
> somewhere you have a couple of wire flipped.
> check the updated inlet.
> pm if you need wiring diagrams.
> i have color coded diagrams


This. Somewhere you have a cord that isn't wired properly.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

yea very few things can make a system act like this...
a lifted neutral or wires flipped for neutral and L1 or L2.
and yes even on molded cords this can be a real thing from the factory!
we check all of the new cords here just to make sure before putting them in to service.

lol you can let the genie out of the bottle on appliances!
(smoke show)
most will not stand for 240 vac on an 120 vac appliance.


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## Dumbass (Dec 27, 2021)

iowagold said:


> verify all wires on the cords and the connections.
> somewhere you have a couple of wire flipped.
> check the updated inlet.
> pm if you need wiring diagrams.
> i have color coded diagrams


OK. I will start with inlet box. I marked the wires before I disconnected them and am 100% sure they are connected the same as the electrician had them. I should note that I didn’t have a generator when the inlet box was installed and therefore, no test run was done. It is snowing on and off right now so I am going to wait a bit before I open the box. The wires coming from the house were BLACK, WHITE, WHITE and bare copper for ground. actually 2 bare copper wires. So if there is an issue it will probably be one of the WHITE wires in the wrong connection. 


This may be a dumb question: I am just learning how to use a multimeter correctly so I will need the generator running and plugged into the inlet box to check the wires? Also I only ran 1 of the 2 the ground wires coming from the house to the ground screw in the box since that was how it was when I opened it to do the swap.

I really do appreciate the help and suggestions.


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## FlyFisher (Jun 30, 2018)

Dumbass said:


> The wires coming from the house were BLACK, WHITE, WHITE and bare copper for ground. actually 2 bare copper wires. So if there is an issue it will probably be one of the WHITE wires in the wrong connection.


This doesn't sound right. 

Black is Hot and White is Neutral. The fact that you have 2 White wires means that one of them is Hot. That could very easily be mixed up.



Dumbass said:


> This may be a dumb question: I am just learning how to use a multimeter correctly so I will need the generator running and plugged into the inlet box to check the wires? Also I only ran 1 of the 2 the ground wires coming from the house to the ground screw in the box since that was how it was when I opened it to do the swap.
> 
> I really do appreciate the help and suggestions.


Good deal on learning to use a multi-meter. It is the most useful tool for troubleshooting electrical stuff you can imagine. 

As to the generator plugged in and running - NO. Go back to post #6 (< direct link to it) and read what I described with the extension cord and checking continuity through Neutral. This will get to exactly the question of the two white wires and which one is Hot. If you can't find the Hot, then get the extension cord on another circuit that is off the other hot rail in the breaker box.


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## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

Dumbass said:


> I am just learning how to use a multimeter correctly so I will need the generator running and plugged into the inlet box to check the wires?


Be VERY careful to note how you have the meter set and power options. If you are checking continuity (ohms) then make sure NOT to have gen running. Never check ohms on a live circuit. If you are checking voltage, then gen has to be running and meter set to volts (VAC). Don't shock yourself!


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## FlyFisher (Jun 30, 2018)

GenKnot said:


> If you are checking voltage, then gen has to be running and meter set to volts (VAC). Don't shock yourself!


The problem with this is there is very likely a problem with the wiring. The idea is to correct it before applying any more power to the circuit. So, therefore, there needs to be some diagnostics to figure out the wiring PRIOR to powering up the circuit at this point.


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## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

Yup. I was just giving him meter advice. You are leading him in the diagnostic direction. Keep it up.


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## Dumbass (Dec 27, 2021)

FlyFisher - If I understand your directions correctly and I am not sure I do but here is what I think I am supposed to do:

Turn off main power - plug the generator extension cord into the 50A inlet box BUT not plugged into the generator - put generator breaker in breaker box to ON position and then test the prongs of the 30A to 50A adapter and then the prongs of the 30A cord.

GenKnot - I was going to test for volts since that is what I am used to doing. I can check a wire to see if it is hot so I don’t touch it. Lol. However, an easier and safer way to do this a bonus.


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## FlyFisher (Jun 30, 2018)

Dumbass said:


> Turn off main power - plug the generator extension cord into the 50A inlet box BUT not plugged into the generator - put generator breaker in breaker box to ON position and then test the prongs of the 30A to 50A adapter and then the prongs of the 30A cord.


Bingo. The breakers need to be in the position of getting generator power (with the mains disconnected). That is the purpose of your interlock - so you can not have the mains on with the generator on.

This also means that during your testing like this you will have no power in the house. As I understand it - you are in a cold climate. Do you have wood or pellet heat to keep going while you're doing your troubleshooting?

Test the continuity to verify the wiring BEFORE powering up the generator and plugging in. If you find a fault in the connections - then correct the issue and triple, quadruple check. When you are sure the pinning through the cables and to the generator plug is correct then plug in and power up.


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## Dumbass (Dec 27, 2021)

FlyFisher said:


> Bingo. The breakers need to be in the position of getting generator power (with the mains disconnected). That is the purpose of your interlock - so you can not have the mains on with the generator on.
> 
> This also means that during your testing like this you will have no power in the house. As I understand it - you are in a cold climate. Do you have wood or pellet heat to keep going while you're doing your troubleshooting?
> 
> Test the continuity to verify the wiring BEFORE powering up the generator and plugging in. If you find a fault in the connections - then correct the issue and triple, quadruple check. When you are sure the pinning through the cables and to the generator plug is correct then plug in and power up.


Great. No backup heat source but for the limited time I will have power off it should not be a problem in the house. Big problem is me freezing - older I get less I can tolerate the cold. Lol. It is 19 deg now and still on and off light snow - but since I do not have to open the inlet box snow should not be an issue. I have some errands to run so will check in later. Thanks!


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

Though it’s possible, I doubt that that it’s miss wired. Its likely a loose connection causing voltage spikes. Hence the fried surge protectors. Since the cords are molded it’s not going to be a loose terminal lug but could be damage Or looseness in the receptacle ends or a loose connection at the inlet box, any junction boxes, or the breaker in the main panel.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

Dumbass said:


> OK. I will start with inlet box. I marked the wires before I disconnected them and am 100% sure they are connected the same as the electrician had them. I should note that I didn’t have a generator when the inlet box was installed and therefore, no test run was done. It is snowing on and off right now so I am going to wait a bit before I open the box. The wires coming from the house were BLACK, WHITE, WHITE and bare copper for ground. actually 2 bare copper wires. So if there is an issue it will probably be one of the WHITE wires in the wrong connection.
> 
> 
> This may be a dumb question: I am just learning how to use a multimeter correctly so I will need the generator running and plugged into the inlet box to check the wires? Also I only ran 1 of the 2 the ground wires coming from the house to the ground screw in the box since that was how it was when I opened it to do the swap.
> ...


????
hummm
this is a 120 / 240 gen and cord set right?
it should be
L1 as black
L2 as red
neutral as white
ground and copper or green 

snap a pix of the inlet socket you are using
there also should be some numbers on it as well make sure the photo is clear.


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## Dumbass (Dec 27, 2021)

iowagold said:


> ????
> hummm
> this is a 120 / 240 gen and cord set right?
> it should be
> ...




























These are pics of the inlet plug, the back of the plug and the wires coming out of the house.

Here are the numbers I got starting with the wires inside of the inlet box:

WHITE + GROUND = 00.1
WHITE + Y = 04.2
WHITE + X = 14.2
X + Y = 18.8
GROUND + Y = 2.5
GROUND + X = 14.4
Some of the numbers jumped high but then settled down to what I recorded.

These are the numbers from the inlet box prongs:
NEUTRAL TO RT PRONG = 14.4
NEUTRAL TO LEFT PRONG = 2.0

Also checked continuity on adapter:
NEUTRAL + GROUND = OL
GROUND TO 1 HOT = 14.5
GROUND TO OTHER HOT = 2.2
NEUTRAL TO EACH HOT SEPARATELY = OL

The only reading that was below 1 was the GROUND TO WHITE inside inlet box.


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

WTF, Two 6/2 NM-b cables… That’s not code compliant. An electrician installed this!? I take back my previous statement. All of a sudden it’s quite possible that wires are crossed.


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## Dumbass (Dec 27, 2021)

drmerdp said:


> WTF, Two 6/2 NM-b cables… That’s not code compliant. An electrician installed this!? I take back my previous statement. All of a sudden it’s quite possible that wires are crossed.


YES! An electrician with a relatively large local company.


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## Dumbass (Dec 27, 2021)

Dumbass said:


> YES! An electrician with a relatively large local company.


To clarify - I replaced the inlet box. BUT all wiring coming out of house is him.


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## FlyFisher (Jun 30, 2018)

drmerdp said:


> WTF, Two 6/2 NM-b cables…


That answered a major question I had - which is how 2x white wires got in there... 

Well 2x white wires, 2x black wires, and 2x ground wires got in there! And thats how - 2x sets of 6/2.


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## FlyFisher (Jun 30, 2018)

Dumbass said:


> Here are the numbers I got starting with the wires inside of the inlet box:
> 
> WHITE + GROUND = 00.1
> WHITE + Y = 04.2
> ...


The only thing you may be able to (no guarantee) determine testing at one end of the circuit is if you have any cross-continuity that shouldn't be there.

What would make that test not accurate is if you have anything plugged in to the circuit. In that case you are reading the resistance through the loads on the circuit and that would throw off the reading. 

The only way to test for cross-continuity and have it be accurate is if there is nothing plugged in to the circuit. So to do that you need to clear every outlet in your house, or turn off every breaker in the box other than the generator breaker. In that case all you are testing is the connection from the generator to the breaker box in that case, and taking out the rest of the house circuitry (which is OK in that case because if you had cross-continuity with the rest of the house circuitry you would have long since had a bigger issue on your hands then what you are trying to troubleshoot here). 

You need the extension cord to check continuity through the circuits - hots (both if you can get the extension cord on a circuit on each hot) and neutral. In this case you are creating a "closed loop" with the multi-meter reading the continuity/resistance of that "closed loop". 

When you did your tests from the one end you were testing across the different leads, not close-looping one lead at a time.

You need to map out each lead individually - and that is where the extension cord comes in so you can create the closed loop that will allow you to do said mapping.


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## FlyFisher (Jun 30, 2018)

Hopefully this is a bit more clear than just "words". Crude diagram, but still a better doodle than just the verbal imagery.

Again, on the L14-30 the 2x hot legs/pins don't matter on polarity. X could be L2 Y could be L1, or X could be L1 and Y could be L2.

What DOES matter is neutral is neutral. And that is the heart of the question. You have 2x sets of 3 conductor cables (2 "conductors" plus ground = 3). You need to map out where each black, white, and bare copper wire goes.

I did not include all the interconnects/adapters in the line between the generator and the breaker box - but they are all in question as noted in the brown box/yellow text.

Last comment is a bit of a safety consideration - using the Extension Cord method pictured and described - this keeps your finger pickers out of the breaker box. You shouldn't need to be in there to test existing circuits, so this method keeps you out of it.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

Dumbass said:


> View attachment 10706
> 
> View attachment 10705
> 
> ...


a true what the heck moment on what the electrical guy did...

proper colors to this location of the inlet should to have been
L1 to Y as black
L2 to X as red
neutral to W as white
ground to ground symbol as green or bare

you could id the blacks and place red tape on one of them at both ends for the L2.

to id the black wire for the red tape;
first turn off the main breaker for safety
if you can operate a volt meter you could use a fresh 9 volt dc battery with clip leads
disconnect the generator inlet black wires at the breaker panel
place the + 9 volt on one of the blacks for the gen inlet at the breaker panel
and the battery - to the bare copper ground

next go outside with your red tape and meter
set the meter to dc volts and if it is not auto range style of meter set to 20 volts dc scale.
check the black wires one at a time till you get the 9 volts dc.
mark that wire with the red tape as a band or wrap around the wire.
check to make sure no other voltage on any of the other wires.
go back inside and mark that wire with the red tape as well.
this will be your L2 connection for the X on the inlet.

next check the other black wire as the same to verify that is the right wire for L1
and connect that to the Y on the inlet
no tape on that wire.

verify the white neutrals next the same way... not sure why they ran 2 of them.
you can connect both of them to the neutral buss bar in the breaker panel after you verify them.
and out side you will wire nut them together with a single 6 gauge white jumper wire to connect to the W term

on the inside wires L1 black to one leg of the duplex breaker for the interlock
and L2 red tape wire to the other leg on the duplex breaker for the interlock

triple check your work check all screw connections before you button up the out side as well as the inside panel covers
the cut in the main on the breaker panel.
step off to the side with one hand, and always turn your head from the panel (that safety thing).

then verify with the battery and meter the cord to make sure it is wired right as well.


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## Dumbass (Dec 27, 2021)

FlyFisher said:


> Hopefully this is a bit more clear than just "words". Crude diagram, but still a better doodle than just the verbal imagery.
> 
> Again, on the L14-30 the 2x hot legs/pins don't matter on polarity. X could be L2 Y could be L1, or X could be L1 and Y could be L2.
> 
> ...


THANK YOU FlyFisher for the diagram. It is easier for me to visually see what you are saying than it is for to read and try to visualize something that I have not done before. 

I did do the test earlier with all breakers in the on position. Looking at the diagram - I need to turn only one breaker on. Unplug anything in the sockets and turn off any lights. Plug in a regular 110v extension cord and test between the 110v extension and the generator 30A extension. 

Two questions:
1). Do I need to test with the 30Amp gen cord plugged into the inlet box or can I test between the prongs of the inlet box and the 110v ext cord?
2). I am only interested in readings from ground to ground, neutral to neutral and hot to hot between the 110v ext cord and gen cord, correct?

Thank you for the help.


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## Dumbass (Dec 27, 2021)

iowagold said:


> a true what the heck moment on what the electrical guy did...
> 
> proper colors to this location of the inlet should to have been
> L1 to Y as black
> ...


iowagold - Thanks for the time and help. I am going to try FlyFisher’s extension cord loop first because it seems easier to me and less chance of me messing something up at the breaker box. I like the idea of the 9v battery and then being able to get that on the meter to know you have a connection. 

Thanks again.


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## FlyFisher (Jun 30, 2018)

Dumbass said:


> I did do the test earlier with all breakers in the on position. Looking at the diagram - I need to turn only one breaker on. Unplug anything in the sockets and turn off any lights. Plug in a regular 110v extension cord and test between the 110v extension and the generator 30A extension.


If you make a closed loop it does not matter what you have plugged in because you are not checking through those devices. You are just trying to make a "closed circuit" between the "one" wire you are testing. Electricity takes the path of least resistance and you will have, technically, no load between the L14-30 and the extension cord.



Dumbass said:


> Two questions:
> 1). Do I need to test with the 30Amp gen cord plugged into the inlet box or can I test between the prongs of the inlet box and the 110v ext cord?
> 2). I am only interested in readings from ground to ground, neutral to neutral and hot to hot between the 110v ext cord and gen cord, correct?


1. Yes, at first you want the L14-30 plug you connect to the generator in the circuit through the inlet box. This will have all the "parts" together as in what should be normal operation. Then once you run in to things that are not correct start peeling back the layers of parts and check/verify those. As @iowagold mentioned - commercially made cables may still be worth checking over to see if they are, in fact, correct. 

2. Yes. That is the purpose of the cord being there. The most important part of the testing is to get your Neutral correct on the generator cord side from the L14-30 to the breaker box. With the wiring question in the inlet box (between it and the breaker box) - this is likely where your issue is and why you're going through all these "hoops". The Hot wire of the extension cord (black, the narrow blade on the plug/socket) should only connect to one of the hot pins on the L14-30 - if everything is wired correctly. There again, if it isn't and you are loading up neutral somewhere along the lines - that is exactly what you are trying to test for here - to map out the connections/wires as described in the brown box with yellow text in the diagram. If it is too hard to read copy the picture and save it to your computer then zoom in. On my web browser it doesn't let me zoom in to the image, only the base website/text.

Keep in mind that ground and neutral will be bonded together both at the generator and breaker box. So you should have continuity between ground and neutral. The important differentiation is between Hot and Neutral.


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## Dumbass (Dec 27, 2021)




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## macdenewf (Sep 3, 2021)

1st 2 things I’d try. 

tuen all the breakers off other than the gen breaker and make sure you’re getting 120from each hit to ground.
get a clip on current meter ( Lowe’s. 60
Bucks ). Start turning on each breaker snd see what the current draw is on each leg.

report back.


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## FlyFisher (Jun 30, 2018)

macdenewf said:


> 1st 2 things I’d try.
> 
> tuen all the breakers off other than the gen breaker and make sure you’re getting 120from each hit to ground.
> get a clip on current meter ( Lowe’s. 60
> ...


That won't be a good idea if the circuit from the generator to the breaker box is mis-wired. That has to be checked first at this point before putting any more power on the circuit. Only when the wiring is either known to be good or what ever issues are found are rectified should power be put on the circuit.


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## macdenewf (Sep 3, 2021)

FlyFisher said:


> That won't be a good idea if the circuit from the generator to the breaker box is mis-wired. That has to be checked first at this point before putting any more power on the circuit. Only when the wiring is either known to be good or what ever issues are found are rectified should power be put on the circuit.


Fully agree. I wouldn’t flip on any of the main breakers if the power isn’t correct. And to that point. That’s the easiest place to test the voltage for proper wiring through the cable snd the jumper.

probably should have specified. 
with all the breakers off in thr panel( including the 50 amp generator breaker )
Plug everything in between the gen and the house. when the generator is running to can test between each hot leg from the gen set at the breaker.
You should have 4 wires you want to test.
Test the voltage from each lug on the gen breaker to ground and neutral. 
if it’s all wires properly you should have
120 from the top lug to ground and 120 from the top lug to your neutral bar. 
similarly if wires properly you will have 120 from the bottom lug to ground and neutral. 
Also test between the top and bottom pubs and you should have 240. 
if you have anything different than this then something is wired wrong.

with all the breakers off you shouldn’t harm anything further in the house.

you can also test this at the end of the cable. All you need to do is Google the plug type and check which pins are which. But from my perspective I would think the final test is at the gen breaker.
Cheers.


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## FlyFisher (Jun 30, 2018)

macdenewf said:


> But from my perspective I would think the final test is at the gen breaker.


Keep in mind, technically only an electrician should be in the breaker box. So if that is true (perhaps a big question mark on the "if" portion of that statement) - 

The circuitry through the breaker box and the rest of the house is "correct". 

That "should" leave the circuitry on the gen side in question, only. 

In this case - the extension cord method I illustrated gets right to the heart of the question - and the extension cord brings the tap points from which to check those portions of the circuits right to the L14-30 that plugs in to the gen. Pretty convenient, eh?


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## macdenewf (Sep 3, 2021)

FlyFisher said:


> Keep in mind, technically only an electrician should be in the breaker box. So if that is true (perhaps a big question mark on the "if" portion of that statement) -
> 
> The circuitry through the breaker box and the rest of the house is "correct".
> 
> ...


I wouldn't suggest anyone open a panel unless they are completely comfortable working around electricity. so - certainly safety 1st. If the owner isn't comfortable with electricity....getting an electrician to sort the issue is always the safest bet.
As for regulation...really depends on the city and state you live in. In Houston....homeowners are permitted to perform electrical work on a house they own...but i do know that is different across many states and as with anything - know whats permitted and not.







Exemptions to Electrician Licensing







www.tdlr.texas.gov




*Homeowners*
A person who perform electrical work on a dwelling that they own and reside in is not required by the state to be licensed as electricians.
_For more information about homeowner exemptions, see 1305.003(a)(6)._

Checking the cable works too. The only reason for the suggestion for checking the breaker is it eliminates everything else...including the gen wiring, the cable wiring, the adapter wiring and the inlet box wiring...one test lets you know its all either wired right - or not.
If its wired right and you have 240 across the lugs and 120 from each lug to ground ..then the problem is something else.
If not - then the owner will certainly have to start stepping through each cable ...throug without a long meter lead - almost no way to test the wiring form the inlet box to the breaker - other than opening up the inlet box and physically verifying the color cables connected to each terminal.

Most of these cables are labeled.
X & Y (hot lines) W ( neutral) and G ( ground) 
L1430R plug wiring diagram

On an L14-30r Plug ( either generator or the female end of the cable) the ground is the connector that has the small L in it...If labeled - it will have a G
The connector directly across form the ground is the Neutral ...if labeled - it will have N...and the other 2 ( left and right of the ground and neutral) are the hots, if labeled will be X and Y.


If you want individual tests..
Generator.
Test the gen while running

You should have 120 from Ground to Each Hot ( left and right of the ground tab)
You should have 120 from Neutral to each hot
You should have 240 from hot to hot.

30 amp cable.
- Can be tested with voltage ( if plugged into the generator using the same method as above measuring voltage) or you can use the ohms setting on the meter and test it for conductivity. Your meter might have a setting for conductivity....looks like a wifi signal. This will beep when you have continuity. If the owner isn't used to using a meter there is a quick tutorial here








How to Test Continuity with a Multimeter: 13 Steps (with Pictures)


To test continuity, all you have to do is stick 2 terminals on your multimeter against 2 ends of an electrical current. Testing continuity in a wire, current, or fuse is a good idea if you're installing or repairing any electrical...




www.wikihow.com





test the respective same lugs on each side of the cable
the L tab on the make to the to the L tab on the female ( ground)
the N tab U directly across from the ground from make to female
then the other 2...and to be honest...doesnt make any difference if these are reversed as they are both hots...BUT if you do find a problem....i wouldn't trust the cable

30m to 50A jumper
I honestly cant see the pin connections clear enough....but it looks like a standard ss2-50 plug.
Here the convention changes. There are only 3 pins ( H, H, N) and ground is built in the side of the plug....so still uses 4 wires
The convention of the tab with the L ( like on the 30 amp cables and generator) DOES NOT follow suit here.
The Ground is on the Side of the plug
The Hot legs ( X & Y) have the little L connector 
the neutral is the straight blade connector






30 amp or 50 amp - iRV2 Forums


My 2014 Redwood 5th wheel shore power plug-in receptacle on the coach has 3 prongs leading me to believe it is for 30 amps, but the placard right next to it says its 50amps. Also, inside that plug-in



www.irv2.com





To test this with continuity ...go from the L tab on the 30A plug to the copper connector on the side of the plug ( G-G)
Test continuity from the tab across form the L on the 30 Amp plug ( N) to the flat tab on the 50 amp plug
Test the other 2 on the 30 amp ( left and right of the ground and neutral) to each L tab on the 50...and again. While it would ge good for the X to match X and the y to match Y...doesnt matter.

All is left now is the gen inlet box...which can only be tested with continuity and even then - youre going to need a long meter lead........
But as you've already removed that and clearly are comfortable - with handling the wires in the box...make sure that wires from the breaker connect to X & Y., the Neutral wire form the breaker connects to W and the ground wire form the breaker connects to G

Th owner mentioned connecting to the ground rods on the house
"I was a little confused with the 2 ground wires coming out of the house but I tried running the gen with one house ground attached to the box and not attached and no different results. "
Would like to get some more info on this. Was the reference to the ground wires the ones going to the outlet box or to a ground rod?

Best practice is to ground a generator. lots of debate that the cable connecting the generator to the home technically grounds the generator but if anything ever lets loose on the gen wiring....the ground directly connected to the generator frame may save someone getting electrocuted... BUT safety aside....connecting the generator to a ground vs not connecting the generator to the ground shouldn't cause this issue UNLESS something is wired wrong.

So - most of this pebbly isn't anything new to a person that has connected up a generator before but hopefully helpful see this owner.


If the owner is in Houston - i can run over and help test this for you.
Cheers


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## Dumbass (Dec 27, 2021)

macdenewf said:


> I wouldn't suggest anyone open a panel unless they are completely comfortable working around electricity. so - certainly safety 1st. If the owner isn't comfortable with electricity....getting an electrician to sort the issue is always the safest bet.
> As for regulation...really depends on the city and state you live in. In Houston....homeowners are permitted to perform electrical work on a house they own...but i do know that is different across many states and as with anything - know whats permitted and not.
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks for the offer to come by. If I was in Houston I would take you up on that. I am in Montana and this not the time for a road trip. Lol.

I may have figure it out by using FlyFisher’s recommendation. Before hooking the 30Amp gen cable to the 30Amp / 50 Amp adapter to the inlet box I checked continuity of the 30Amp gen cable and the 30A to 50 Amp adapter separately. The 30Amp cable tested good on ground, neutral and the 2 hots. The 30A to 50A adapter tested good on ground and the 2hots but not on neutral. When the adapter and 30A cable were attached to each other same issue, no neutral.

I went through the test with a 110v extension cord and gen cable anyway and still had no neutral on gen cable with adapter attached. Then I unplugged the gen cable & adapter from inlet box and tested across the extension cord and the contacts in the inlet box.

I got a hit on one hot.
Extension ground connected to inlet box ground and neutral - and Ext cord neutral connected to Inlet box neutral and ground. I take it that is the bonding between the neutral and ground that is needed.

I am hoping that it is the faulty adapter. I will order a new one soon and check back in to report results. At least now I know how to test it when it get here.

I want to thank everyone for offering your expertise and advice. You guys are the best!  To Fly Fisher for the diagram and instructions. I do think that did it. 

HAPPY NEW YEARS!!🍺


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## Dumbass (Dec 27, 2021)

macdenewf said:


> Th owner mentioned connecting to the ground rods on the house
> "I was a little confused with the 2 ground wires coming out of the house but I tried running the gen with one house ground attached to the box and not attached and no different results. "
> Would like to get some more info on this. Was the reference to the ground wires the ones going to the outlet box or to a ground rod?


I was referring to the 2 bare copper ground wires that can be seen in the picture of the inside of the box. When swapping out the original inlet box I was focused on the wiring going into the back of the plug and only casually looked at how the electrician connected the copper wires coming from the house. I know the one copper wire that is not attached to anything was just that not attached to anything. It was the other one I was unsure of. It had a bend in it that looked like it was attached to the same connection that the box ground green clad wire was connected to. so that is where I connected it. I didn’t mess with the ground ground rod.


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## macdenewf (Sep 3, 2021)

Dumbass said:


> Thanks for the offer to come by. If I was in Houston I would take you up on that. I am in Montana and this not the time for a road trip. Lol.
> 
> I may have figure it out by using FlyFisher’s recommendation. Before hooking the 30Amp gen cable to the 30Amp / 50 Amp adapter to the inlet box I checked continuity of the 30Amp gen cable and the 30A to 50 Amp adapter separately. The 30Amp cable tested good on ground, neutral and the 2 hots. The 30A to 50A adapter tested good on ground and the 2hots but not on neutral. When the adapter and 30A cable were attached to each other same issue, no neutral.
> 
> ...


Good to have a plan. If you want to face time when you’re troubleshooting …drop me a note. 
cheers.


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## Mike M (Sep 5, 2021)

Dumbass said:


> Thanks for the offer to come by. If I was in Houston I would take you up on that. I am in Montana and this not the time for a road trip. Lol.
> 
> I may have figure it out by using FlyFisher’s recommendation. Before hooking the 30Amp gen cable to the 30Amp / 50 Amp adapter to the inlet box I checked continuity of the 30Amp gen cable and the 30A to 50 Amp adapter separately. The 30Amp cable tested good on ground, neutral and the 2 hots. The 30A to 50A adapter tested good on ground and the 2hots but not on neutral. When the adapter and 30A cable were attached to each other same issue, no neutral.
> 
> ...


I may have called it right (see post #4) suggesting a faulty adapter...if so, it's a (somewhat) easy fix.
Maybe I should go and buy a lottery ticket and see if my luck continues....


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## Dumbass (Dec 27, 2021)

macdenewf said:


> Good to have a plan. If you want to face time when you’re troubleshooting …drop me a note.
> cheers.


Thanks.


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## Dumbass (Dec 27, 2021)

Mike M said:


> I may have called it right (see post #4) suggesting a faulty adapter...if so, it's a (somewhat) easy fix.
> Maybe I should go and buy a lottery ticket and see if my luck continues....


You did call it. I guess I just expect things to work out of the box.


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## FlyFisher (Jun 30, 2018)

Dumbass said:


> I got a hit on one hot.
> Extension ground connected to inlet box ground and neutral - and Ext cord neutral connected to Inlet box neutral and ground. I take it that is the bonding between the neutral and ground that is needed.


Try moving the extension cord to an outlet that is off a circuit on the other side of the breaker box and verify your other Hot is correct.

As to the neutral and ground - that appears to check out. You should have continuity between them on both connectors (L14-30 and extension cord/5-15 connector) with the bonding in the breaker box. 

The question on the inlet box remains the other Hot - so I'd say go through the motions to at least iron that out and verify where all of the wires in the pair of 6/2 cables go even though your question is mostly the 30a to 50a adapter at this point.


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## somedumbguy (Sep 17, 2020)

Dumbass said:


> I have a WEN8750 Inverter Gen bought new. Before I got the gen an electrician put in a 50A (4prong) outside inlet box installed along with an Interlock system for the breaker box and a 50A breaker in the breaker box for the gen. When I finally got a gen and hooked it up it blew out some LED lights (same brand cheap ones - did not blow out better ones I had) and a surge protector in the house. The gen did not run any of the breakers I tried such as refrigerator. I disconnected gen from house and everything ran as it should from main power.


Wow; you checked a lot of stuff so far already. Did you try wheeling the gen near the house and running a couple extension cords through the window rather than use the inlet box and house wiring? That way you could convince yourself that the gen itself was not blowing out the extension cord/surge protectors. (This may have been covered already; I read through the responses but didn't see it. Sorry if I missed it.)


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## Dumbass (Dec 27, 2021)

somedumbguy said:


> Wow; you checked a lot of stuff so far already. Did you try wheeling the gen near the house and running a couple extension cords through the window rather than use the inlet box and house wiring? That way you could convince yourself that the gen itself was not blowing out the extension cord/surge protectors. (This may have been covered already; I read through the responses but didn't see it. Sorry if I missed it.)


No problem. Early on I ran some 110 stuff off the generator w/o any problem but I didn’t have a way to test the 30Amp 120/240 generator outlet except through the inlet box.

We finally had a break in the weather - no new snow today. I checked continuity on the new adapter when I got it about a week or so ago, and it all looked good. But today I was actually able to do a generator to breaker box test and IT WORKS LIKE IT SHOULD! 

I want to thank you guys again for all your help. I thought the problem was either the gen or the wiring in the inlet box. I used multimeters before but just to check voltage for live wires. I never suspected that a new out of the box adapter would be bad. Now that I know how to test continuity I will be checking all new cords I get. lol.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

you can always make a test plug with light indicators.
just like the ones for wall outlets
but for the larger twistlocks


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## somedumbguy (Sep 17, 2020)

Congrats; the nightmare is over! 
However, knowing that simple electrical items are, apparently, NOT tested at the factory is another nightmare


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

most BIG production mfg stuff now only tests maybe 1 out of a 100 or a 1000 items..
that is how they make them for pennies on the dollar...

and why a hammer costs $20k for space program...
they have to buy $10k of hammers just to get one that passes the quality control.

i always check any gen or power cords when they are brand new.
you never know how good the work was of the guy who put it together.


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