# Predator 3500 Watt Inverter - Generator - Extended run time



## Gotcha

We've recently purchased a new Predator 3500 Watt Inverter/Generator and I'm looking for a way to extend the run time of the fuel tank for longer camping trips. I've found the IPI Industries Breeze Extended Run Generator System — BERG System: Single Feed, Model# HND1.2-000iS, however I cannot find any lists that say if it will or will not work. Either way, if anyone has any idea of direction for what I could use, I would be most thankful.


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## RedOctobyr

I certainly wouldn't make any assumptions about a different kit working. My 2000W Honda uses a fuel pump, for instance, so I had a little more options when I made my external tank. It will pull fuel through the line, from the external tank. 

But for gravity-fed carbs (which seems to be the Predator 3500W type), it gets a little more difficult. The tank needs to sit above the height of the generator, for instance. 

This kit (about $200, shipped) says it's for the 3500W Predator, as a ready-to-go option:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/PREDATOR-3...GALLON-EXTENDED-RUN-FUEL-SYSTEM-/112504174713

You can also buy just a cap: 

eBay

But you'd need to supply your own tank, fuel lines, etc. Small outboard-motor gas tanks are often used. 

Have you contacted IPI Industries, the people who make the BERG systems? They could probably tell you if they make something compatible with the 3500W. 

https://ipiindustries.com/contact-us

I got a used 6-gallon outboard tank for my setup. I modified an original Honda gas cap, to add a barbed connection for a 1/4" fuel line (found 1/4" rubber fuel line cheap at Lowes, in the plumbing section of all places). I put a quick-disconnect on the fuel line between the cap and the tank. And the tank's primer bulb lets me fill the tank->generator line with gas before starting. With 7 total gallons available, it can run my EU2000i for 28-70 hours, based on Honda's statement of 4-10 hours/gallon, based on electrical load. It was a bit of a project to rig up, but it's a nice capability, and will let it easily run overnight if needed, without worrying about running out of gas.


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## dangerousbob

An inproperly rigged Extended Run setup can be problematical. Here's my take; correct me if I have anything wrong. CAVEAT: All described mods here are strictly 'use at your own risk". 

There is a troublesome Harbor Freight Predator 3500 problem (reported by some, but not all owners) where the generator may tend to run too rich, which can lead to engine stuttering, fouled plugs, poor fuel economy, clogged spark arrestors, and sometimes, raw gas leaking out of the generator.

This problem appears to involve, in one way or another, the charcoal canister that is supplied on many Predator 3500s to make the generator compliant with California emissions standards, but may also be present on generators sold outside of California (for example, I can confirm that generators sold in Florida Harbor Freight stores have charcoal canisters.)

Some users are finding that unregulated gasoline fumes, or in some cases, even raw gasoline) from the gas tank vent can flow into the canister, then onward into the air cleaner housing, and ultimately into the carburetor, causing an over-rich mixture, rough running, etc.

There are at least two scenarios where this may happen:
1) The generator’s fuel tank might have a defective tank vent nipple that allows raw gas to leak into the canister’s fuel tank vent line, flood the canister, and then leak into the air cleaner via the canister fume recirculation hose, causing the engine to run rich and potentially flooding the interior of the generator with raw gasoline. The exact nature of this supposed tank vent nipple defect may be as follows: the tank is fitted with a metal fuel cap vent pipe that runs inside the tank, bottom to top, that allows gas vapors to be pulled from the top of the tank, into the carbon canister, into the air cleaner, and into the carburetor. Since the vent pipe is soldered onto a fitting at the bottom of the tank, a bad solder joint can allow liquid fuel to flow into the vent line, flooding the canister with gas and in turn flooding the carburetor.
2) An improperly rigged Extended Run fuel tank can flood the canister with gas, if the owner fails to plug off the stock generator fuel tank’s vent hose, because as gas flows down from the extended run tank and fills the stock tank, the stock tank will ‘overflow’ into the stock generator fuel tank vent pipe, flooding the charcoal canister with raw gasoline and in turn, flooding into the air cleaner housing and leaking out of the generator.

Both of the above scenarios can be alleviated if you clamp off, or plug, the generator fuel tank cap vent hose that runs from the Predator’s tank to the charcoal canister. Once that’s done, if you wish, you can even remove the entire charcoal canister assembly.

*To properly rig an extended run tank:*
Since a Predator 3500 has no fuel pump (it’s gravity feed only), an extended run tank will need to be positioned directly above, or above and beside, the Predator’s own gas tank, so that gasoline can flow from the extended run tank, down to a special, leak-proof, aftermarket replacement gas cap on the Predator’s own tank. The replacement cap will have a fuel nipple installed in it, and will have a fuel-proof cap gasket so that the replacement cap can be tightly screwed onto the Predator’s tank, completely sealing the Predator’s own tank and allowing Extended Run tank gasoline to safely flow down into the Predator’s own tank without any leaks.

I used a 6.3-gallon, West Marine, ‘low permeability’ marine gas tank as my extended run tank. I ran a gas line from that tank, through a squeeze bulb, then through a quick-disconnect gasoline fitting, into the above-described replacement cap on my Predator tank. If desired, you could also rig a fuel filter in that line, if you are worried about fuel contamination getting into your generator’s carburetor.

Once this is accomplished, whenever you are using the Extended run tank, you MUST somehow clamp off, or plug, the Predator’s own fuel tank cap vent hose to prevent Extended Run gasoline from being diverted via the Predator’s vent hose into the canister and air cleaner housing, causing a potential disaster. In my case (see photo), I just added a fuel shutoff lever instead of removing the canister.


Finally, you must provide a ventilated gas cap on your Extended Run tank, so that your extended run fuel system doesn’t develop a vacuum that stops gas from siphoning and starves and stalls the generator As mentioned above, the West Marine tank I used, is the latest EPA-approved kind that has no vent. But West Marine also sells replacement caps that ARE vented, and fit perfectly on their ‘low permeability’ tank.

A third ‘rough-running’ scenario has also been reported, that does not involve the charcoal canister system. Several posters report that the generator housing is too air-tight, causing it to starve for air and therefore ‘run rich’ and ‘run hot’. The generally agreed-upon cure, is to open either the oil filler door, or the battery compartment door, when using the generator, to provide extra air into the carburetor intake. Several posters advise replacing the oil filler door with an aftermarket (or self-fashioned) door that has vent holes drilled into it.

FINAL NOTE: If you have purchased a Predator 3500 from Harbor Freight and also bought the extended warranty, you can return your generator for exchange if an unexpected defect occurs, but since modifying the Predator voids the warranty, keep all the charcoal canister parts, and DO NOT drill any holes in the Predator’s gas cap or the oil filler door…keep everything untouched, so that you can restore everything back to stock before returning the generator for warranty exchange.


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## tabora

For over 20 years, I ran a Coleman PM1500 generator almost exclusively on a gravity feed 6 gallon Attwood marine fuel tank. Instead of messing with the original tank cap, I just inserted a quick-connect T in the middle of the fuel line (that you can see in the photo attached) from the onboard tank to the carb. I could instantly disconnect the 6 gallon tank and then just use the generator with the onboard tank as a portable unit.

I now use the same tank with my Onan RV-type genset, but no longer have to have the tank mounted above the genset, since it has a fuel pump.


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## sonicbob

Hello everyone . I wanted to try and attempt to post some pictures of my Predator and it's eleven gallon auxiliary extended run time fuel tank. It works flawlessly especially after I did the charcoal canister delete. Here's a list of the different parts I used to assemble it.

1. Predator 3500 generator extended run fuel cap. Bought on E-bay ITEM # 112797948530

2. 11 Gallon Aluminum fuel tank. Bought on E-bay. ITEM # 261842714625

3. 1/4" Ball valve (the outlet port on the fuel tank is 1/4" NPT ) E-bay ITEM # 143028320752

4. Yamaha 3/8 marine fuel line connector (Both male and female connector MUST be of the same style (Yamaha) to mate up together.) E-bay ITEM # 302066042297 

5. Yamaha 1/4" NPT thread male fuel line connector. E-bay ITEM # 151485685337

6. 3/8" inline fuel filter bought at NAPA Auto parts.

7. 4 foot of 3/8" fuel line and trim to fit. Also bought at NAPA. 

I made the fuel tank pedestal from 2X2 5/16 square tubing to mount the fuel tank to. I then wielded it to a Length of 2X6 1/4" tubing 

( I used the heavier tubing because I was concerned about vibration and metal fatigue.) I then wielded the whole assembly to a length of 1/2" plate and U-clamped it to the 4 x4 square tubing bumper. 

We have traveled approximately 9000 miles with the extended run fuel tank mounted as it is with no issues what so ever it works flawlessly with no revisions. The fuel siphons just as it should. 
The Predator powers our 35 foot trailer with no problems at all. 

I have no idea just how long the total fuel capacity will run the generator. I hope that I never HAVE to find out. but I have the peace of mind that we have the capability of 60 or 70 Hrs. of run time. Thanks for looking. SonicBob.


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## sonicbob

Hello Tabora. I must say that is one nice and clean setup you have there. Dose it have a remote start? 
Is very loud? I wouldn't think so being RV service at one time. I may use some of your ideas when I do mine. Nice job. Sonicbob.


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## tabora

sonicbob said:


> Hello Tabora. I must say that is one nice and clean setup you have there. Dose it have a remote start?
> Is very loud? I wouldn't think so being RV service at one time. I may use some of your ideas when I do mine. Nice job. Sonicbob.


 Yours looks very nifty, as well. If I were buying a new generator for that location (on an island 15 miles off-shore), I would probably emulate what you have done with the Predator. I purchased the Onan in August 2000, but didn't actually swap it into operation until last summer.

Yes, it has 2 remote start panels, one in each of the two buildings it serves (it's mounted on the back of my shed/bathroom, about 75' back from the cottage). It is quite quiet, about 72dB(A) @ 10ft at full load (uncovered), but it's not as quiet as your Predator. It would be much quieter mounted in an RV compartment. That's why it's mounted way out back. The little Coleman it replaced was in a plastic truck box with foam lining, many 1" vent holes at one end and a 10" intake fan at the other end; the tank sat atop the box above the fan, and was stored in the box between the fan and generator.


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## sonicbob

Thank You. for the compliment. It looks like the remote start is also an information center. again very cleanly done.


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## tabora

Yes, the panel in the cottage had some blank space, so I added the battery meter to it to keep track of the condition. It already had the hour meter. I also added an outlet to the right of the panel after the picture was taken and have one of the Onan Voltage monitors there, too. I just have a smaller panel with only the start/stop switch in the shed, and of course also on the generator itself.

I was just looking at the 11gal tank you purchased and saw a 7gal pancake tank for ~$50 that I purchased to replace the Attwood marine tank. That should fit in there nicely next to the generator and I'll move the battery & charger inside the shed.


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## sonicbob

Yes I actually looked at that tank when I was considering fuel reservoirs. But mounting it presented some problems and I didn't have the room either. I did like the fact that it has a fuel gauge. I simply use a length of 3/8" wooden dowel with a zip tie pulled down snugly. I slide the zip tie to the top Stick the tank then slide the tie down to the wet area on the stick. And after using the generator just restick it for usage.

After every trip and we're back home I simply drain out a gallon or so to use in the riding mower. And doing that helps keep the gas fresh in it.


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## zeeshee12

*inverter for generator*

before buying inverter i am very anxious about the billing of my electronic use items and also i was anxious about light fluctuation which made by electric item out of order but after using inverterinverter it is not only save my energy cost but it also maintain light fluctuation because in my country light fluctuation is a big problem


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## dangerousbob

tabora said:


> For over 20 years, I ran a Coleman PM1500 generator almost exclusively on a gravity feed 6 gallon Attwood marine fuel tank. Instead of messing with the original tank cap, I just inserted a quick-connect T in the middle of the fuel line (that you can see in the photo attached) from the onboard tank to the carb. I could instantly disconnect the 6 gallon tank and then just use the generator with the onboard tank as a portable unit.
> 
> I now use the same tank with my Onan RV-type genset, but no longer have to have the tank mounted above the genset, since it has a fuel pump.


Great idea, Tabora - arguably a safer approach, too, since you're not relying on the aftermarket cap's gasket's ability to always and forever perfectly seal against fuel leakage. Doing it your way safely eliminates what some might see as a remote, but potentially serious, fire hazard.


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## Dave Pumphrey

dangerousbob said:


> An inproperly rigged Extended Run setup can be problematical. Here's my take; correct me if I have anything wrong. Hope this helps:
> 
> 
> There is a troublesome Harbor Freight Predator 3500 problem (reported by some, but not all owners) where the generator may tend to run too rich, which can lead to engine stuttering, fouled plugs, poor fuel economy, clogged spark arrestors, and sometimes, raw gas leaking out of the generator.
> 
> This problem appears to involve, in one way or another, the charcoal canister that is supplied on many Predator 3500s to make the generator compliant with California emissions standards, but may also be present on generators sold outside of California (for example, I can confirm that generators sold in Florida Harbor Freight stores have charcoal canisters.)
> 
> Some users are finding that unregulated gasoline fumes, or in some cases, even raw gasoline) from the gas tank vent can flow into the canister, then onward into the air cleaner housing, and ultimately into the carburetor, causing an over-rich mixture, rough running, etc.
> 
> There are at least two scenarios where this may happen:
> 1) The generator’s fuel tank might have a defective tank vent nipple that allows raw gas to leak into the canister’s fuel tank vent line, flood the canister, and then leak into the air cleaner via the canister fume recirculation hose, causing the engine to run rich and potentially flooding the interior of the generator with raw gasoline. The exact nature of this supposed tank vent nipple defect may be as follows: the tank is fitted with a metal fuel cap vent pipe that runs inside the tank, bottom to top, that allows gas vapors to be pulled from the top of the tank, into the carbon canister, into the air cleaner, and into the carburetor. Since the vent pipe is soldered onto a fitting at the bottom of the tank, a bad solder joint can allow liquid fuel to flow into the vent line, flooding the canister with gas and in turn flooding the carburetor.
> 2) An improperly rigged Extended Run fuel tank can flood the canister with gas, if the owner fails to plug off the stock generator fuel tank’s vent hose, because as gas flows down from the extended run tank and fills the stock tank, the stock tank will ‘overflow’ into the stock generator fuel tank vent pipe, flooding the charcoal canister with raw gasoline and in turn, flooding into the air cleaner housing and leaking out of the generator.
> 
> Both of the above scenarios can be alleviated if you clamp off, or plug, the generator fuel tank cap vent hose that runs from the Predator’s tank to the charcoal canister. Once that’s done, if you wish, you can even remove the entire charcoal canister assembly.
> 
> *To properly rig an extended run tank:*
> Since a Predator 3500 has no fuel pump (it’s gravity feed only), an extended run tank will need to be positioned directly above, or above and beside, the Predator’s own gas tank, so that gasoline can flow from the extended run tank, down to a special, leak-proof, aftermarket replacement gas cap on the Predator’s own tank. The replacement cap will have a fuel nipple installed in it, and will have a fuel-proof cap gasket so that the replacement cap can be tightly screwed onto the Predator’s tank, completely sealing the Predator’s own tank and allowing Extended Run tank gasoline to safely flow down into the Predator’s own tank without any leaks.
> 
> I used a 6.3-gallon, West Marine, ‘low permeability’ marine gas tank as my extended run tank. I ran a gas line from that tank, through a squeeze bulb, then through a quick-disconnect gasoline fitting, into the above-described replacement cap on my Predator tank. If desired, you could also rig a fuel filter in that line, if you are worried about fuel contamination getting into your generator’s carburetor.
> 
> Once this is accomplished, whenever you are using the Extended run tank, you MUST somehow clamp off, or plug, the Predator’s own fuel tank cap vent hose to prevent Extended Run gasoline from being diverted via the Predator’s vent hose into the canister and air cleaner housing, causing a potential disaster. In my case (see photo), I just added a fuel shutoff lever instead of removing the canister.
> 
> 
> Finally, you must provide a ventilated gas cap on your Extended Run tank, so that your extended run fuel system doesn’t develop a vacuum that stops gas from siphoning and starves and stalls the generator As mentioned above, the West Marine tank I used, is the latest EPA-approved kind that has no vent. But West Marine also sells replacement caps that ARE vented, and fit perfectly on their ‘low permeability’ tank.
> 
> A third ‘rough-running’ scenario has also been reported, that does not involve the charcoal canister system. Several posters report that the generator housing is too air-tight, causing it to starve for air and therefore ‘run rich’ and ‘run hot’. The generally agreed-upon cure, is to open either the oil filler door, or the battery compartment door, when using the generator, to provide extra air into the carburetor intake. Several posters advise replacing the oil filler door with an aftermarket (or self-fashioned) door that has vent holes drilled into it.
> 
> FINAL NOTE: If you have purchased a Predator 3500 from Harbor Freight and also bought the extended warranty, you can return your generator for exchange if an unexpected defect occurs, but since modifying the Predator voids the warranty, keep all the charcoal canister parts, and DO NOT drill any holes in the Predator’s gas cap or the oil filler door…keep everything untouched, so that you can restore everything back to stock before returning the generator for warranty exchange.



Helped enormously 
Thanks


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## tabora

Finally had an opportunity to install the "permanent" 7-gallon tank to replace the boat tank feeding our Onan MicroLite 2800. Ended up mounting the battery on the generator cover itself. Used synthetic wine bottle corks as standoffs to get the tank positioned properly.


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## sonicbob

Well Tambora that new red tank looks pretty sharp. Very resourceful using wine corks. Do you have any idea how long the run time is for your genset?


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## tabora

sonicbob said:


> Do you have any idea how long the run time is for your genset?


It's between .21 & .25 gallon per hour, so would be close to 30 hours on a full tank. We only run it occasionally during the day when power tools or fans are needed, and then in the evening from dinner to bedtime for lights, microwave and battery charging. Probably an average of 4-6 hours a day, two days a week during the summer/fall, using 1-1.5 gallons?


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## Robh

I read this whole thread and wondered why nobody mentioned a propane conversion? It seems that would be an easier way to get extended run-time, yes?


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## tabora

Robh said:


> I read this whole thread and wondered why nobody mentioned a propane conversion? It seems that would be an easier way to get extended run-time, yes?


I did a propane conversion on my big PowerMate generator, but you have to be careful; propane has been known to burn valves and hole pistons on some engines in extended operation. Propane also reduces the output of the genset, and these are mostly smallish units being discussed. For example, my Onan 2800W gas genset becomes a 2500W unit on propane.


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## Robh

I've heard about that, but not seen any first hand reports. It does make me wonder how there are factory dual-fuel generators out there without issues.


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## tabora

Robh said:


> I've heard about that, but not seen any first hand reports. It does make me wonder how there are factory dual-fuel generators out there without issues.


Hardened valve seats, etc. Onan and Duromax, for example, seem to have the engineering down to allow either fuel type in their engines. Several Honda generator users have posted bad propane use outcomes on this forum when aftermarket propane conversions were done. I would look for manufacturers that have both fuel types factory supported.


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## SuperiorLoopEngineering

Gotcha said:


> We've recently purchased a new Predator 3500 Watt Inverter/Generator and I'm looking for a way to extend the run time of the fuel tank for longer camping trips. I've found the IPI Industries Breeze Extended Run Generator System — BERG System: Single Feed, Model# HND1.2-000iS, however I cannot find any lists that say if it will or will not work. Either way, if anyone has any idea of direction for what I could use, I would be most thankful.


https://superiorloopengineeringllc.com makes an extended run tank that uses a fuel pump so no need to elevate tank. Only takes about 20 mins to install as well.


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## DeanHensler

I have a brand new Predator 3500 inverter generator. Only 2 hours on it. I just filled it all the way up with gas and its been sitting in the back of my truck all day in 95 degree heat. I noticed gas all over the bed of my truck so I took the side cover off and witnessed it spewing gas out of the Open Canister Male Nipple as shown in the picture on an earlier post.

Does this mean I've got too much fuel in it or is there a greater problem? I can't believe it's just dumping fuel out while not running.


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## iowagold

tabora said:


> It is quite quiet, about 72dB(A) @ 10ft at full load (uncovered), but it's not as quiet as your Predator. It would be much quieter mounted in an RV compartment.


hey look in to the generator stack for the exhaust
that helps on the onan exhaust noise
click here for the generator stack page
or if you are a handy guy you could make a stack out of sc40 or 80 dwv pipe
and vent the exhaust up.
that helps with the loud exhaust note.


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## LeeRoy

dangerousbob said:


> An inproperly rigged Extended Run setup can be problematical. Here's my take; correct me if I have anything wrong. Hope this helps:
> 
> 
> There is a troublesome Harbor Freight Predator 3500 problem (reported by some, but not all owners) where the generator may tend to run too rich, which can lead to engine stuttering, fouled plugs, poor fuel economy, clogged spark arrestors, and sometimes, raw gas leaking out of the generator.
> 
> This problem appears to involve, in one way or another, the charcoal canister that is supplied on many Predator 3500s to make the generator compliant with California emissions standards, but may also be present on generators sold outside of California (for example, I can confirm that generators sold in Florida Harbor Freight stores have charcoal canisters.)
> 
> Some users are finding that unregulated gasoline fumes, or in some cases, even raw gasoline) from the gas tank vent can flow into the canister, then onward into the air cleaner housing, and ultimately into the carburetor, causing an over-rich mixture, rough running, etc.
> 
> There are at least two scenarios where this may happen:
> 1) The generator’s fuel tank might have a defective tank vent nipple that allows raw gas to leak into the canister’s fuel tank vent line, flood the canister, and then leak into the air cleaner via the canister fume recirculation hose, causing the engine to run rich and potentially flooding the interior of the generator with raw gasoline. The exact nature of this supposed tank vent nipple defect may be as follows: the tank is fitted with a metal fuel cap vent pipe that runs inside the tank, bottom to top, that allows gas vapors to be pulled from the top of the tank, into the carbon canister, into the air cleaner, and into the carburetor. Since the vent pipe is soldered onto a fitting at the bottom of the tank, a bad solder joint can allow liquid fuel to flow into the vent line, flooding the canister with gas and in turn flooding the carburetor.
> 2) An improperly rigged Extended Run fuel tank can flood the canister with gas, if the owner fails to plug off the stock generator fuel tank’s vent hose, because as gas flows down from the extended run tank and fills the stock tank, the stock tank will ‘overflow’ into the stock generator fuel tank vent pipe, flooding the charcoal canister with raw gasoline and in turn, flooding into the air cleaner housing and leaking out of the generator.
> 
> Both of the above scenarios can be alleviated if you clamp off, or plug, the generator fuel tank cap vent hose that runs from the Predator’s tank to the charcoal canister. Once that’s done, if you wish, you can even remove the entire charcoal canister assembly.
> 
> *To properly rig an extended run tank:*
> Since a Predator 3500 has no fuel pump (it’s gravity feed only), an extended run tank will need to be positioned directly above, or above and beside, the Predator’s own gas tank, so that gasoline can flow from the extended run tank, down to a special, leak-proof, aftermarket replacement gas cap on the Predator’s own tank. The replacement cap will have a fuel nipple installed in it, and will have a fuel-proof cap gasket so that the replacement cap can be tightly screwed onto the Predator’s tank, completely sealing the Predator’s own tank and allowing Extended Run tank gasoline to safely flow down into the Predator’s own tank without any leaks.
> 
> I used a 6.3-gallon, West Marine, ‘low permeability’ marine gas tank as my extended run tank. I ran a gas line from that tank, through a squeeze bulb, then through a quick-disconnect gasoline fitting, into the above-described replacement cap on my Predator tank. If desired, you could also rig a fuel filter in that line, if you are worried about fuel contamination getting into your generator’s carburetor.
> 
> Once this is accomplished, whenever you are using the Extended run tank, you MUST somehow clamp off, or plug, the Predator’s own fuel tank cap vent hose to prevent Extended Run gasoline from being diverted via the Predator’s vent hose into the canister and air cleaner housing, causing a potential disaster. In my case (see photo), I just added a fuel shutoff lever instead of removing the canister.
> 
> 
> Finally, you must provide a ventilated gas cap on your Extended Run tank, so that your extended run fuel system doesn’t develop a vacuum that stops gas from siphoning and starves and stalls the generator As mentioned above, the West Marine tank I used, is the latest EPA-approved kind that has no vent. But West Marine also sells replacement caps that ARE vented, and fit perfectly on their ‘low permeability’ tank.
> 
> A third ‘rough-running’ scenario has also been reported, that does not involve the charcoal canister system. Several posters report that the generator housing is too air-tight, causing it to starve for air and therefore ‘run rich’ and ‘run hot’. The generally agreed-upon cure, is to open either the oil filler door, or the battery compartment door, when using the generator, to provide extra air into the carburetor intake. Several posters advise replacing the oil filler door with an aftermarket (or self-fashioned) door that has vent holes drilled into it.
> 
> FINAL NOTE: If you have purchased a Predator 3500 from Harbor Freight and also bought the extended warranty, you can return your generator for exchange if an unexpected defect occurs, but since modifying the Predator voids the warranty, keep all the charcoal canister parts, and DO NOT drill any holes in the Predator’s gas cap or the oil filler door…keep everything untouched, so that you can restore everything back to stock before returning the generator for warranty exchange.


dangerousbob

I have read your post and am having an issue I cannot seem to figure out. I have the predator 3500. I bought the extended run cap by itself and used a setup I already had in the garage. Pictures included.

So when running, and for no apparent reason, the 3500 will simply shut off. Open the onboard tank and it’s full and fuel will be running out of the cap that’s connected to auxiliary tank that is mounted above the 3500. So I know it isn’t simply running out of gas. I do have shut off installed for running with the auxiliary tank. The auxiliary tank is also vented.

I can instantly restart the 3500 and it will run for a few more hours and I never see or believe I cause an overload or surge that could cause this. Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!


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## Old man here

LeeRoy said:


> dangerousbob
> 
> I have read your post and am having an issue I cannot seem to figure out. I have the predator 3500. I bought the extended run cap by itself and used a setup I already had in the garage. Pictures included.
> 
> So when running, and for no apparent reason, the 3500 will simply shut off. Open the onboard tank and it’s full and fuel will be running out of the cap that’s connected to auxiliary tank that is mounted above the 3500. So I know it isn’t simply running out of gas. I do have shut off installed for running with the auxiliary tank. The auxiliary tank is also vented.
> 
> I can instantly restart the 3500 and it will run for a few more hours and I never see or believe I cause an overload or surge that could cause this. Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
> View attachment 8998
> View attachment 8999
> View attachment 8998
> View attachment 8999
> View attachment 9000
> View attachment 8998
> View attachment 8999
> View attachment 9000


Your fuel line is possibly kinked just above the shut off valve in your first photo.


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## iowagold

good eye omh!
i would pull a vac on the fuel tank with the after market cap plugged to make sure there is not a tank seal or vent issue on the oem tank.
the berg system will only work if the oem tank does not have a vent and is full of gasoline every time you start up.
all of the lines need to be leak proof.
we use marine fuel line.
let me know if you need links!


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