# Will all these components work together (portable generator for partial home backup)?



## ChrisK (Sep 9, 2020)

Hello,
I just moved to an area that can have power outages due to bad weather in the summertime. The Houston area of Texas.
After finding out that a "whole home standby unit" is out of my price range, I decided that I would still want some sort of emergancy backup.
After researching for a few weeks, I beleive that I have found something, that I can afford within my budget of $1500.
I will not be hooking this to my house, via transfer switch, after getting an estimate from my contractor and his ME. That, sadly. is also out of my price range.

So, going the extension cord route, I am hoping that this scenario will work, and that I am doing it correctly, and that all of these parts are compatible with eachother.
I will be placing my generator on my back lawn, 20 feet from my Master bedroom window. This bedroom is the only room in the house that I will be supplying power to, aside from my refrigerator in my kitchen, which is about 40 feet from that same master bedroom window. I will not be grounding the generator, as I have read that the generator only needs to be grounded if I am connecting it to my home, rather than using extension cables. I will be using a Big cable that goes from the 30 amp port of the generator, and has 3 regular L15 outlet style plugins for my house (L5-30P to three 5-15R). It is rated for 3750 watts.
I will then plug in my Window AC Unit to one of them (the same AC that is in that same window, 8000 BTU, 900 running / 1250 Surge Watts). The Second plugin, I will run a 50 foot 12 Gauge extension cable to my Kitchen refridgerator. I could not spec the wattage, even with help from the manufacturer, because of of its age (it is a 2006 model). It does say that it is rated for 115 volts and 4.5 amps. It does not indicate the the surge wattage. I went with a very liberal estimate on the starting watts, and think that a safe bet would be 550 Running and 2200 Surge).
The final 5-15r would plug into a power strip that would power my laptop (150 Watt) charge my cell phone (6.5 watts), Run my TV (40" flat screen Manufacture told me that it is 90 watts), My modem and router in case internet stays up, it does sometimes (210 watts) and a lamp (LED Bulb, less than 14 watts).
If all of that will work together, I would be just fine. I also can replace the Window A/C with a small space heater if the power goes out in the winter, I havent purchased one yet, but if I did, I would buy one that was less than 1500 watts.
The generator is a 3500 running / 4000 surge CHampion Gasoline Generator Invertor. I plan to use Synthetic oil in it. I also will be purchasing the "tent" to run the generator under. IF a hurricane knocks my power out, I will not be using the generator during the storm, but rather after the storm has passed, while waiting for power to be restored. The tent is just a precaution, in case it sprinkles or starts to rain heavily enough that I can get out in time to turn off the generator in a large downpour.
Here is my parts list, thanks for reading all of this, and I appreciate amy info that y'all can give me on if I am missing something.
AC https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PD ... 0DER&psc=1
Extension Cord https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000 ... 0DER&psc=1
Running Tent https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TY ... Y5TN&psc=1
Generator https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M3 ... 0DER&psc=1
Wheel Kit https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001Q ... 0DER&psc=1
Generator Cable https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008D ... 0DER&psc=1
Gas Canhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GBBG5LZ/re ... 0DER&psc=1
Synthetic Oil https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000A ... 0DER&psc=1


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## Tboney (Sep 9, 2020)

Instead of going the transfer switch route, which can be very expensive, consider feeding generator power into your inside sub-panel and using an interlock device that will prevent the generator and power company feed being used at the same time. These are legal everywhere I am aware of but you might check with an electrician about the codes in your area. I'm just down the gulf in Mobile, AL. It does depend on the configuration of your inside panel. If you can provide a picture of the panel I can tell you if yours can be done. There are a lot of posts on various forums that give you help on getting this done. I did mine myself, including making the interlock device, which is only a small piece of sheetmetal that can cost $50-$100. My house is 2400 square feet and most major appliances are gas. I can run practically all of my 120 volt circuits (Refrigerator, freezer, lights, ceiling fans, garage door opener, satellite receiver, three televisions plus an 8,000 btu window ac that I use for these occasions) with a Champion 3400 watt inverter generator. I have not tried the washer or microwave. I may have to shut off the ac while they are in use. You didn't say if you have any electrical experience - it would be very helpful if you do. If you have to hire an electrician it will still be much cheaper than wiring a transfer switch and NO worrysome extension cords. Please let me know if I can help in any way.


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## ChrisK (Sep 9, 2020)

Wow, thank you! Yes I will send a picture shortly.


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## ChrisK (Sep 9, 2020)




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## ChrisK (Sep 9, 2020)

I do not have any electrical experience at all. However, if you can point me in the right direction, I can find someone local who can quote me the job rather than what I had originally asked for, which was going to cost me $850 to have my contractor do via his master electrician.


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## Tboney (Sep 9, 2020)

Definitely a candidate for an interlock kit. You'll need to move two breakers down to have any empty space up top for the generator feed breaker. I had to do the same thing. I didn't see a name. 
Who makes this breaker?


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## Tboney (Sep 9, 2020)

Tboney said:


> Definitely a candidate for an interlock kit. You'll need to move two breakers down to have any empty space up top for the generator feed breaker. I had to do the same thing. I didn't see a name.
> Who makes this breaker?


Sorry, I meant who makes this panel?


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

Tboney said:


> Definitely a candidate for an interlock kit. You'll need to move two breakers down to have any empty space up top for the generator feed breaker. I had to do the same thing. I didn't see a name.
> Who makes this breaker?


square d logo on the breakers

post a pix of the panel door
that will give us the panel model number so we can look up the part number for the inter lock


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## Tboney (Sep 9, 2020)

As Iowagold said, you'll need the panel manufacturer and part number to order the right interlock. I'm sure your electrician will know which one to get. Here's a picture of mine that I made myself and you can see how it works. My panel is a siemens but the concept is the same. As you can see it's impossible to have the generator breaker and the main breaker on at the same time. Simple, but effective and (most of all) safe.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

and also add a whole house surge unit.
click here for the generator connection page
they sure saved my bacon on the Iowa storm back in 08/10/2020!


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## ChrisK (Sep 9, 2020)

Is this the info that you are asking for?


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## ChrisK (Sep 9, 2020)

Ok I can see what that is now.
How do I go about hooking the generator to the panel though? What parts will I need?
If I get the part list together, I can send those parts to an electrician and ask for an estimate to install them.
Thanks again! My generator (the one I am buying is this one)


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M3R711N/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_4?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

click here for the square d interlock page
the first one listed on that page should fit your box


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## Tboney (Sep 9, 2020)

I've got to go to work but I'll try to put a parts list together tomorrow. The closer you can put your generator receptacle to your power panel the cheaper it will be. Ideal situation would be the panel is on an exterior wall and electrician can go straight out to the receptacle. Mine wasn't. If the electrician has to run the generator feed from the panel to a remote location it will cost much more. My panel is in the utility room and I put my receptacle there behind a door, requiring only a 36" run from the receptacle to the panel. Of course you've got to have a cord from the receptacle to the generator long enough to get out where you will be running the generator. This may not work for you. Picture is attached.


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## ChrisK (Sep 9, 2020)

Thanks in advance. And mine is in my garage, I can out one right outside, on the other side of it.


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## Tboney (Sep 9, 2020)

Sounds like you have the perfect situation. If the electrician runs it through the wall and mounts the receptacle on the outside, how far away will the generator be located?


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## ChrisK (Sep 9, 2020)

Well, now I am stuck. Going the extension cord route, I was able to put the generator 20 feet from my house, and I know that's the recommended distance. Putting it on the side of the house where it would go to attach to the outside receptical, I would be only 14 feet from the house. So, I might need a different solution, as that isn't far enough to be safe, from the horror stories that I have read. I will post some pics tomorrow.


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## Tboney (Sep 9, 2020)

ChrisK said:


> Well, now I am stuck. Going the extension cord route, I was able to put the generator 20 feet from my house, and I know that's the recommended distance. Putting it on the side of the house where it would go to attach to the outside receptical, I would be only 14 feet from the house. So, I might need a different solution, as that isn't far enough to be safe, from the horror stories that I have read. I will post some pics tomorrow.


You can get a 25’ cord for about $50 if you need to get farther away. I locate mine about 10’ from my house with no windows or doors close by. My son has a big 20k standby permanently located about 5’ from his house with the exhaust pointed away from the house. I just don’t see why a portable needs to be 20’ away. I’d suggest that you do whatever you need to to keep your family safe. Carbon monoxide is a dangerous killer.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

make sure you have co detectors in every room as well as the basement.

they make generator stack units now that get the exhaust up...

the longer away from the gen the larger the cords need to be..
just saying plan this well...


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## tabora (Sep 6, 2018)

ChrisK said:


> My generator (the one I am buying is this one)
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M3R711N/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_4?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1


That generator is only a 120V generator. Not what you'll want to connect to your 240V main panel. It would be good for a small 120V RV or for standalone use with the triple outlet cord you mentioned.


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## ChrisK (Sep 9, 2020)

tabora said:


> That generator is only a 120V generator. Not what you'll want to connect to your 240V main panel. It would be good for a small 120V RV or for standalone use with the triple outlet cord you mentioned.


Its beginning to look like that is the route I will have to take. But if I can figure a way to get a generator further from my house, I may purchase a different one. Still looking at all my options. Thanks! Hadn't even taken that into consideration.


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## Tboney (Sep 9, 2020)

Are qa


tabora said:


> That generator is only a 120V generator. Not what you'll want to connect to your 240V main panel. It would be good for a small 120V RV or for standalone use with the triple outlet cord you mentioned.


Not true. I've powered my 240 volt panel for years using this adapter.






Amazon.com: Parkworld 885446 NEMA TT-30P to L14-30R Adapter Cord, RV 30A TT-30 Male Plug with Handle to Generator 30A 4-Prong L14-30 Female Receptacle: Home Audio & Theater


Amazon.com: Parkworld 885446 NEMA TT-30P to L14-30R Adapter Cord, RV 30A TT-30 Male Plug with Handle to Generator 30A 4-Prong L14-30 Female Receptacle: Home Audio & Theater



www.amazon.com





It connects to the RV plug on one end and to the L14-30 connector on the other end. The hots are bridged in the adapter, providing 120 volts to each side of the panel buss. It is UL approved and safe. It DOES NOT provide 240 volts, only 120. It works flawlessly, but the 240 volt breakers need to be turned off in the panel.


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## tabora (Sep 6, 2018)

Tboney said:


> It works flawlessly, but the 240 volt breakers need to be turned off in the panel.


Again, NOT what a first-time generator user wants to be messing with. It's too easy to forget something (or have another unknowing person try to use it) and damage 240V items.


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## Tboney (Sep 9, 2020)

tabora said:


> Again, NOT what a first-time generator user wants to be messing with. It's too easy to forget something (or have another unknowing person try to use it) and damage 240V items.


You have a good point. As an old retired electrician I tend to take too much for granted sometimes. I only have one 240v breaker in my panel (Dryer) and I usually put a piece of blue painters tape over it to let others know not to turn it on. He has several 240v breakers in his so his chances of turning one on by mistake is much greater.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

Tboney said:


> You have a good point. As an old retired electrician I tend to take too much for granted sometimes. I only have one 240v breaker in my panel (Dryer) and I usually put a piece of blue painters tape over it to let others know not to turn it on. He has several 240v breakers in his so his chances of turning one on by mistake is much greater.


better yet do the lock out tag out for the 240 vac breakers when on 120 volt gen set.
or switch over to a gas dryer.


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## Tboney (Sep 9, 2020)

iowagold said:


> better yet do the lock out tag out for the 240 vac breakers when on 120 volt gen set.
> or switch over to a gas dryer.


Much better (for me) to go the lockout route and provide dear wife a clothesline. Thanks.


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## Tboney (Sep 9, 2020)

Since Dear Wife never flipped a breaker in her life the blue tape works for me.


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## ChrisK (Sep 9, 2020)

I have found an electrician that might be in my price range. I have also found a 100" 10AWG cord that can let me safely run my generator 20 feet from the house. I am also looking at different generators, maybe find one with an l15-30 rather than the 120 Volt 3 prong that you guys were discussing. I am asking the seller of the interlock kit that iowagold recommended me, as mine has 1" spacing, but that one calls for 3/4" spacing. I will keep y'all updated!


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## ChrisK (Sep 9, 2020)

I am trying to get my parts list together for my upcoming meeting with this electrician.
I know that I will need an interlock, but I also realize that I will need a breaker for the generator. The generator I am leaning towards now is this:





Amazon.com : Champion 6250-Watt DH Series Open Frame Inverter with Quiet Technology : Garden & Outdoor


Amazon.com : Champion 6250-Watt DH Series Open Frame Inverter with Quiet Technology : Garden & Outdoor



www.amazon.com




What size breaker will I need? From what I am reading, it would seem that my generator would be 30 amps from that l15-30 connection. So do I need a single pole or a 2 pole breaker?
Thanks!

Edit: This looks to be the correct one, but again, I am totally new at all this:








Circuit Breaker 2P 30 Amp 120/240VAC/48VDC - Miniature Circuit Breakers - Amazon.com


Circuit Breaker 2P 30 Amp 120/240VAC/48VDC - Miniature Circuit Breakers - Amazon.com



www.amazon.com


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## Tboney (Sep 9, 2020)

I've not been in a square D panel in 20 years (I've only worked on Siemens, GE, Murray) so I'm not at all familiar with their breakers but I don't think that's the one you need. You definitely need a 30 amp 2 pole breaker. Your electrician can tell you which one to get or he may have one on his truck if he works on Square D stuff. The only interlock kit I see made for the Square D panel with a 1" spacing is a Square D Kit K-5110 and it's $145 on the sites I found it. No way in the world I would pay that for a 99 cent piece of sheet metal. That's the reason I made mine but I understand if you can't do that. If you have a friend with some basic metalworking tools there are some youtube videos on making them. It took me about 30 minutes. I would also be a little leery of a 100 foot generator cord. If you could find a way to use a 50 foot one it would save you some money and help keep current loss to a minimum.


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## ChrisK (Sep 9, 2020)

Yes, I do not like the 100' cable idea at all, but my power box is in my attached garage, and if I mount the receptacle on the other side of that, I have a narrow side yard, 10 feet away from my fence, with no way get the generator further than 10 feet from my attached garage. So, I have to run that cable 45 feet to the back of my house, where I then need another 20 feet to keep the generator in the backyard, 30 feet from the house. So what I really need is an 85-foot cord, but I do not see one anywhere. The only other option is to use the first scenario from my original post, with the generator in the same spot in the back yard, but just running the 10 AWG breakout cord into my house through the same window as the A/C is in. I am still on the fence about what is the better option.
The first option was about $1500 total, the second option is $2500 (if the labor is about $300, and my guess is that it will be), with the only downside being that 100' 10AWG cable running down the outside of my house. And, almost doubling my cost. 
Also, doing it the second way I will also have to figure out how to ground it, whereas using the extension cord route, no ground is needed. 
As I am typing this, I am starting to lean towards the first option. Simple, functional, less expensive, no need to hire anyone.

I suppose a third option would be to install a receptacle outside the window, that would take in the 10AWG generator cable, and then have a dedicated outlet in that one room that needs the power. It would need 3 sockets. 1 for window a/c, 1 for a refrigerator (need a 50' 12AWG cord for that, to reach the kitchen), and one for a power strip to run my TV, Internet modem, laptop charger, and lamp.
As I am mulling my options, does anyone here ever heard of such an outlet set up? TT30p on one side and 3 or 4regular 110 on the other?


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## Tboney (Sep 9, 2020)

Kris, you said you just moved to the area. I would suggest that you talk to some folks that have lived there for a few years and ask about past history power outages. If it’s like where I live and the norm is an extended outage (more than 24 hours) every 2-5 years I would go the cheapest and easiest route. If you can expect an extended outage every year then spend a little more and be prepared for it. I’ve got friends in Houston that have very seldom lost power but I know some on the south side have been out for weeks. Every city and every neighborhood is different it seems. The newer neighborhoods with underground service have fewer outages than the ones with power lines running overhead for instance. Good luck in which option you choose. I do think the Champion generator you picked is an excellent choice.


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## ChrisK (Sep 9, 2020)

Hey guys, so I am just doing the extension cord thing (for now). I wound up getting a larger generator, and tested everything yesterday and it was perfect. I bought the champion 6250/5000 watt generator. Here is a video that I sent to my Family members that asked how it was going. I spent $1700 for everything, I said $2200 in the video, but was mistaken. That's all I am spending for now. Saving up for the electrician for next year to hook it to my house, use the interlock and get a grounding rod. It's a long 10 minute video, made for friends and family so it might have extra info that isn't needed for this forum, sorry about that! Anyways here it is:


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## tabora (Sep 6, 2018)

ChrisK said:


> use the interlock and get a grounding rod.


If you float the neutral and connect it to the house, it will use the house's ground point at the neutral bond.


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## Tboney (Sep 9, 2020)

Exactly. No ground rod needed.


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

Good stuff. 

Definitely do an inlet and interlock when you can.


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