# Honda EU7000is Rust Issue



## StormReady (Aug 21, 2021)

As a matter of background, I had my previous EU7000 for about 3 1/2 years and decided to sell it to upgrade to the current version with Bluetooth, etc. My previous unit was in pristine shape and no rust whatsoever and always kept in garage. I've had my current unit for just over 7 months. My neighbor also has the newer version, same unit but purchased about 1 year ago. When my neighbor asked for help with her unit, I also helped fill the gas tank. When removing the gas cap, there was a lot of rust on the fuel tank's rim where the cap connects. I thought that was very unusual for a relatively new unit and one kept in her garage. Also disappointed as I recommended the Honda unit to her. Then due to the recent storm, I too added a few ounces of fuel to the top-off level recommended in manual and noted the beginning of pitting (the beginning of rust) in the identical location of my neighbor's unit - the pitting/rust is under where the gas cap gasket seats to the fuel tank. Cap appears to seat firmly and snug in place so I don't think it's a bad gasket. My unit is also stored in the garage and partially air conditioned from house. I am totally perplexed as my previous unit didn't have any rust at all, was stored in identical location and have always used the suggested E0 fuel. Are there others that have the new version Honda EU7000is for over 7 months that have the same rust problem beginning? I'll get a photo of my neighbor's unit that will show terrible rust while mine appears to just be starting. I did coat the area with motor oil to hopefully slow down the rust.


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## Airstreamer67 (Oct 3, 2020)

I'd spray it with WD40 when refueling. The metal mixture seems to need it to keep surface rust away.


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## StormReady (Aug 21, 2021)

I wonder whether the deterioration of the metal is indicative of a lesser quality metal used in the newer versions as my previous unit was like new after 3 1/2 years without needing to add a protective coating like oil or WD40. Would you know whether the rusting area of the inlet consists of the same metal as the fuel tank or whether the inlet is attached somehow to the tank. I'll get a photo of my neighbor's unit to post as it does look terrible and it appears that rust particles have fallen into the inlet screen.


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## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

I don't have a Honda but it's a common occurrence among metal tanks. This has also started happening to mine after about a year. What I did was put a dab of silicone grease around the lip... the same silicone grease I use on my flashlight O-rings. I'm hoping it would both protect the metal from exposure as well as preserve the rubber gasket and keep it malleable for a long time. It also works as a lubricant as it prevents the gasket from sticking and so it makes turning the cap on or off easier.

I don't store gas in the tank and it's completely dry but I anticipate that the silicone grease would immediately start to dissolve when I pour gas in, just due to the gasoline fumes alone. But I can always re-apply more silicone later.

I didn't use motor oil as some of the additives may have a detrimental effect on the gasket, long term. Silicone is safer on rubber.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

watch the silicone as the honda eu7000is gen has a cat.
they now make drying socks for fuel cans.
wix makes them
pm if you need links.
darn fuel has water in it these days...
even at e-0...
i just checked clients Seperator filters for water on the e-0 tank...
one was full of water the other was 1/2 full.

i think it has to do with the moisture in the air getting sucked in with heating and cooling.

nitrogen gas blanket for the tanks?? just a thought...


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## Dutchy491 (Sep 18, 2019)

When fuel gets used it gets replaced by the outside air, so if it’s humid out that dampness ends up inside the fuel tank. Over time the moisture collects as actual water and contaminates the fuel. So you can buy clean dry fuel….but that doesn’t eliminate water contamination. Too bad fuel tanks don’t have bladders like water pressure tanks do. Drying socks mentioned above are a great idea. I think that the occasional ethanol fuel run through the system completely will reduce moisture in the fuel system…


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## Browse Deweb (Jan 16, 2021)

I have the older version and have no issues with rust. I did switch from gasoline to natural gas, so I don't keep any fuel in the tank.


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## StormReady (Aug 21, 2021)

Guess the general consensus is that moisture/water is causing the rust issue and not inferior metal. This brings me to another question: Generally speaking, is it best to keep tank completely full and use sock or keep completely empty and fill only when needed. Someone mentioned Marine Fog that I think is used to prevent rust in the tank. Is this product available on Amazon or is it a specialty product as I've never heard of it before? And is the Marine Fog used only under critical circumstances like marine use? Thanks for all the feedback.


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## Dutchy491 (Sep 18, 2019)

Any small engine shop will have engine fogging spray. It’s a good idea, but is really meant for engine internals. Although spraying some in/around the fuel filler is a good idea. This spray is safe for emissions systems, if that’s of any concern…


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## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

StormReady said:


> Someone mentioned Marine Fog that I think is used to prevent rust in the tank. Is this product available on Amazon or is it a specialty product as I've never heard of it before?





https://www.amazon.com/s?k=marine+fogging+oil&crid=25YQ7COJFV3JT&sprefix=Marine+Fog%2Caps%2C81&ref=nb_sb_ss_deep-retrain-50-ops-acceptance_1_10



I use 2-cycle marine oil from Walmart to coat things that might rust and also use it in the carb, engine, and tank during storage. Even on the muffler (it burns off when used). It is inexpensive and blue in color so that makes it easy to distinguish from engine oil leaks.

As for the rusting that is occurring, I would mask it off and spray with something like Rust-Oleum to stop it. The oil coating won't last.


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## Dutchy491 (Sep 18, 2019)

Very difficult to ascertain if any product sold is authentic or off-shore junk when buying off Amazon. Bogus NGK plugs come to mind 😵‍💫 I prefer to Support local businesses whenever possible…and enjoy the personal service.


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## speedy2019 (Jan 29, 2019)

OrlyP said:


> I don't have a Honda but it's a common occurrence among metal tanks. This has also started happening to mine after about a year. What I did was put a dab of silicone grease around the lip... the same silicone grease I use on my flashlight O-rings. I'm hoping it would both protect the metal from exposure as well as preserve the rubber gasket and keep it malleable for a long time. It also works as a lubricant as it prevents the gasket from sticking and so it makes turning the cap on or off easier.


I designed and 3d printed a fuel cap opener for my gen as the cap is too wide and thin to get a proper grip so makes it very hard to turn, but now theres no effort at all to turn the cap..... I have it stuck on permanently.


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## StormReady (Aug 21, 2021)

I was thinking more of something to only fog the fuel tank to prevent rust if I store empty so maybe this is not an answer. So is it generally best to keep tank full or empty on a Honda EU7000is that uses fuel injection rather than a carb? And I only use E0 fuel with Sta-Bil.


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## Dutchy491 (Sep 18, 2019)

You’re going to run it every month or so right? Say yes!! So store it full with no E gas and stabilizer. Run the unit with a medium load, like a 1500 watt heater, for 30 minutes or so each time you exercise it. Top the tank off with the above gas as required. ps…for none efi generators be sure to drain the carburetor with the drain screw after each exercise. Turning the fuel off and starving the engine doesn’t get the last 2 tablespoons.


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

Neither of my EU7000s are rusting in that spot. (Bluetooth and earlier version) I’ve had the BT version a year now. Both sit in my gen shed.


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## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

It might be possible that you live in a place where there's high relative humidity. I live in a tropical climate and it's just a rust party all year round.

It gets worse if you live near the coastline or any body of water (especially salt water).


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## speedy2019 (Jan 29, 2019)

Dutchy491 said:


> You’re going to run it every month or so right? Say yes!! So store it full with no E gas and stabilizer. Run the unit with a medium load, like a 1500 watt heater, for 30 minutes or so each time you exercise it. Top the tank off with the above gas as required. ps…for none efi generators be sure to drain the carburetor with the drain screw after each exercise. Turning the fuel off and starving the engine doesn’t get the last 2 tablespoons.


I run my 2600watt gen monthly with a 400watt load for 20mins or so, and I just switch off the engine without running it dry, with E10 fuel + stablizer, and no probs so far in 3.5years. Only just changed from E5 to E10 fuel though, But the gen seem to be running better on the E10 as it starts up faster for some reason.

But in countries where you have real high temps and humidity fuel left in the carb will go bad quickly?


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

StormReady said:


> Guess the general consensus is that moisture/water is causing the rust issue and not inferior metal. This brings me to another question: Generally speaking, is it best to keep tank completely full and use sock or keep completely empty and fill only when needed. Someone mentioned Marine Fog that I think is used to prevent rust in the tank. Is this product available on Amazon or is it a specialty product as I've never heard of it before? And is the Marine Fog used only under critical circumstances like marine use? Thanks for all the feedback.


yup marine fog an empty tank for sure!
and if you run fuel make sure the tank is full for less breathing of the tank.


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## StormReady (Aug 21, 2021)

Where is marine fog sold? Is keeping tank empty and using marine fog better than keeping a full tank and using Stabil Marine? I do live in Florida so there is humidity but my previous unit owned for 3 1/2 years never showed any signs of rust. Always kept in garage partially air conditioned with a full tank, E0 fuel and Sta-Bil.


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## sledman8002002 (Jan 28, 2021)

StormReady said:


> Where is marine fog sold?


Any decent marina will have it readily available on the shelf.


StormReady said:


> keeping a full tank


Thats what I do. My gen tanks are always full (no-ethanol) and ready to go treated with either Seafoam or StarTron, never an issue.
Bad enough when the power goes out after dark, I dont enjoy the frustration of stumbling around to do a fill in the dark.


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## Colt Carson (6 mo ago)

On my Honda EU3000 I keep the fuel tank completely full with StaBil treated non-ethanol gasoline, and change it out every year. I also add a bit of Techron to the gas, to help keep the carburetor clean. I smear a drop of light oil around the rim where the tank cap attaches, mainly because it makes the cap easy to turn and (I presume) saves wear on the gasket. I don’t have any rust there after 10 years, but I thought it was made from stainless steel. I run this gen for 10 minutes every month. I don’t run it longer, so I don’t build so much heat into the gasoline in the tank. When shutting down, I close the fuel valve and let it run only until it starts to surge. This gen is stored in a non-air conditioned garage. The humidity outside is usually high, especially in the summer. So far this system has worked for me.


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## StormReady (Aug 21, 2021)

Seems like all the additives are designed for ethanol fuel, something I don't use. So what's the advantage of using an additive for ethanol fuel when I only use E0 fuel?


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## StormReady (Aug 21, 2021)

StormReady said:


> Seems like all the additives are designed for ethanol fuel, something I don't use. So what's the advantage of using an additive for ethanol fuel when I only use E0 fuel?


Forgot to mention that I do use Sta-Bil, the regular one. Thinking of bumping it up to the Sta-Bil 360 or Marine 360 as it supposedly prevents rust while the regular does not.
Colt Carson made a good point about a thought that the tank was made of stainless steel. Maybe that's the change. Still trying of getting a photo of neighbor's filler neck to show her rust, just unbelievable.


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## pipe (Jun 27, 2021)

None of our eu7000isnan units has the rust issue and all are stored outside in high humidity, outdoor/covered storage with a gencover or sheet. They all have Wawa E0 fuel and Yamaha ACC-FSTAB-PL-32 added to fuel.


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## Colt Carson (6 mo ago)

StormReady said:


> Forgot to mention that I do use Sta-Bil, the regular one. Thinking of bumping it up to the Sta-Bil 360 or Marine 360 as it supposedly prevents rust while the regular does not.
> Colt Carson made a good point about a thought that the tank was made of stainless steel. Maybe that's the change. Still trying of getting a photo of neighbor's filler neck to show her rust, just unbelievable.


The regular red colored Sta-Bil for storage claims on the bottle to prevent corrosion. I would think the other Sta-Bil products you mentioned just have additional corrosion inhibitors. Even using non-ethanol gasoline, I think the Sta-Bil product still provides benefits.


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## pipe (Jun 27, 2021)

Sta-Bil did not do too well with Taryl's tests

All Sta-Bil tests


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

I only use e0, but I add yamalube fuel stabilizer / conditioner. Same as PIPE. I run a heavy concentration of 1oz per gallon, works great.


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## StormReady (Aug 21, 2021)

I thought the Sta-Bil 360 did well on Taryl's test. Didn't think he tested the YamaLube. Have to look into that one.


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## pipe (Jun 27, 2021)

StormReady said:


> I thought the Sta-Bil 360 did well on Taryl's test.


Look at his one year tear-down videos. Sta-Bil did not perform well. Not to be confused by the "what happened in 5 months", ie. "nothing"


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

pipe said:


> Sta-Bil did not do too well with Taryl's tests
> 
> All Sta-Bil tests


not a fan of taradactal.
entertainment only...


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## Colt Carson (6 mo ago)

iowagold said:


> not a fan of taradactal.
> entertainment only...


Yea, I felt like I was watching the old Jerry Lewis movie, The Nutty Professor. I kept waiting for the switch to his sophisticated self, and it never happened.


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## StormReady (Aug 21, 2021)

Pipe, I viewed the 5 month review of the additives but didn't see the one year. Would you please send a link for the one year review?


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## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

I still stand by the fact that for fuel to last long, it has to be E0. If you start with an E10 fuel stock, it's just going to be an uphill battle from there. Adding fuel stabilizer to E10 will only yield marginal, if any results at all. You'll just end up throwing money at a problem that's hardly fixable.

Say what you want about Taryl's videos... it is an acquired taste, IMO. But if you look past all the comic and cheesy performance, the takeaway from the fuel additive video series is pretty conclusive; E10 gas on its own lasts as long as those E10 that has additives. Clearly, the alcohol content is the culprit and at least in the tests, the additives didn't stop gelling and corrosion from happening.


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## ebj (Apr 5, 2021)

I am going back to the original question concerning the rust on the newest purchased Honda. It shouldn’t happen or be a problem with a high end generator like his new Honda or his neighbors Honda. If his older Honda didn’t have the rust problem after 3 1/2 years of use, the new one shouldn’t rust either. It looks like Honda has made some manufacturing decisions that have affected their overall quality. My older Honda generators show no rust in the fuel cap area, and I live where everything rusts from the high humidity.


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## Colt Carson (6 mo ago)

Since it’s under warranty, maybe a call to Honda would be a good path to take. If the metal in question is stainless steel, you would think it would take salt water or something corrosive to rust it. I realize stainless steel is rust resistant and not rust proof.


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## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

I don't think Honda makes everything that goes into their products. Raw materials are sourced everywhere so sure, quality may differ here and there. How the tank or generator was stored is also a factor. A lot of stocks sat for a long while during the Covid shutdown, maybe in less than ideal environment. 

If warranty is an option, go for it. At any rate, it's just surface rust and can easily be mitigated with reasonable maintenance and care.


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## tabora (Sep 6, 2018)

Colt Carson said:


> I realize stainless steel is rust resistant and not rust proof.


It depends on the grade... I only purchase 316 stainless for in-water use... It's all about the molybdenum!

When it comes to 304 stainless steel vs. 316 stainless steel, while both are good for corrosion resistance, strength, welding, and heat resistance, 316 stainless steel gets the slight edge in all these categories due to variation in alloying elements.


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## tabora (Sep 6, 2018)

StormReady said:


> I'll get a photo of my neighbor's unit that will show terrible rust while mine appears to just be starting. I did coat the area with motor oil to hopefully slow down the rust.


I'd like to see those photos of your neighbor's rust situation. It looks like yours could be addressed with some rust treatment product on a rag?


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## Colt Carson (6 mo ago)

tabora said:


> It depends on the grade... I only purchase 316 stainless for in-water use... It's all about the molybdenum!
> 
> When it comes to 304 stainless steel vs. 316 stainless steel, while both are good for corrosion resistance, strength, welding, and heat resistance, 316 stainless steel gets the slight edge in all these categories due to variation in alloying elements.


After I posted that, I remembered that I have marine grade stainless steel hardware on my gate outside and it looks like new.


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## tabora (Sep 6, 2018)

Colt Carson said:


> After I posted that, I remembered that I have marine grade stainless steel hardware on my gate outside and it looks like new.


Even in fresh water, galvanized hardware rusts out in years, and 304 stainless starts to show its age within a decade or so. The 316 stainless chains and hardware that I installed around the turn of the century still look like new.


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## speedy2019 (Jan 29, 2019)

I've been using E5/E10 fuel for the last 3-4years with this stuff in the fuel and I see some gunk sitting at the bottom of the tank. But haven't had no problems with starting or running the generator so far and I dont run the engine dry either.








Briggs & Stratton Fuel Fit Additive/Stabiliser. 992381 : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive


Briggs & Stratton Fuel Fit Additive/Stabiliser. 992381 : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive



www.amazon.co.uk


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## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

speedy2019 said:


> I've been using E5/E10 fuel for the last 3-4years with this stuff in the fuel and I see some gunk sitting at the bottom of the tank. But haven't had no problems with starting or running the generator so far and I dont run the engine dry either.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


IMO, they only work best on E0. They seem to extend the life of the gasoline's ability to ignite, but does little to nothing in the way of protecting the fuel system from corrosion due to the ethanol content.

As to the Honda tank, I doubt it's made of stainless steel. Stick a magnet on it and find out. More often than not, the magnet won't stick if it's SS. Sometimes, it does so but with a weak bond which is only due to the iron that may have been forged into the sheet material. But if it's a steel tank, the magnet will stick on it at full strength.


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## pipe (Jun 27, 2021)

StormReady said:


> .. but didn't see the one year...


There are a number of them, using YT search box, easy to find and concatenate the phrase .... taryl fixes all

The key finding was that ethanol free fuel works, all by itself. Here is the bowl drop of sta-bil with corrosion/gel


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## speedy2019 (Jan 29, 2019)

OrlyP said:


> IMO, they only work best on E0. They seem to extend the life of the gasoline's ability to ignite, but does little to nothing in the way of protecting the fuel system from corrosion due to the ethanol content.
> 
> As to the Honda tank, I doubt it's made of stainless steel. Stick a magnet on it and find out. More often than not, the magnet won't stick if it's SS. Sometimes, it does so but with a weak bond which is only due to the iron that may have been forged into the sheet material. But if it's a steel tank, the magnet will stick on it at full strength.


Well so far, no rust or very little anyway and its outside 24/7 with just a thin weatherproof cover over it to stop the wet,, I'll do the magnet test next time I remove the cover..


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## StormReady (Aug 21, 2021)

Here is the picture of my neighbor's fuel neck. Her receipt shows purchased June 7, 2021 (16 months) Picture of mine is the very first post and at about 7 1/2 months old. Both use E0 fuel and kept in garage, mine partially air conditioned and her garage has a dehumidifier.


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## Colt Carson (6 mo ago)

Wow, those pics look rough. Mine looks brand new after 10 years, and I keep gas in mine year round. A magnet does stick to my EU3000's tank.


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## StormReady (Aug 21, 2021)

I did contact Honda Monday via email and have a case number. And I did contact the dealer. The dealer said to wait till Honda responds but he also mentioned that he thought it was due to high humidity. My other unit was in the identical location 3 1/2 years in the garage and didn't have an issue; it looked pristine. I believe it's with the metal. The difference in serial numbers with mine and my neighbor's unit is about 2600 (last 4 digits) units. So I would assume at least all those units and most likely more would have the same tanks and same issue.


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## pipe (Jun 27, 2021)

Eu7000isnan assembled in India January 2021 and shipped via Seattle to the Keys 2 months later. Exposed to multiple storm / rain outages and stored outside.


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## StormReady (Aug 21, 2021)

No indications of pitting or rust anywhere when purchased. Was in perfect shape when received and all issues came afterwards; bought mine February 2022. Is there a manufacturing date anywhere?


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## Colt Carson (6 mo ago)

Hondas are built in India now?
I live in the Deep South on the coast, very humid during the summer with winds from the south. I keep my Honda in my garage, which is not climate controlled. I don’t know where it was built (hopefully Japan), but I’ve had it ten years. The little bit of brownish residue under the cap gasket isn’t rust, it’s some gasoline gummy residue.


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## pipe (Jun 27, 2021)

Source


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## Colt Carson (6 mo ago)

pipe said:


> View attachment 12851
> 
> 
> Source


Mine says made in Japan on the generator. I wonder where Yamaha is making theirs.


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## StormReady (Aug 21, 2021)

Colt, your inlet area looks real good. Haven't heard from Honda yet but if my unit deteriorates more, I'll be really concerned. If no recall, maybe sell it. Looking at the diagram of the unit, the fuel tank doesn't seem be a big deal to replace so that may be a consideration. But I thought that of other items on my car and ran into problems.

Pipe provided a great link to Taryl's test on additives and now I wonder whether any of them are of any benefit. Got to locate the one year test but from what he's done for several months with ethanol fuel, not an issue.


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## Colt Carson (6 mo ago)

StormReady said:


> Colt, your inlet area looks real good. Haven't heard from Honda yet but if my unit deteriorates more, I'll be really concerned. If no recall, maybe sell it. Looking at the diagram of the unit, the fuel tank doesn't seem be a big deal to replace so that may be a consideration. But I thought that of other items on my car and ran into problems.
> 
> Pipe provided a great link to Taryl's test on additives and now I wonder whether any of them are of any benefit. Got to locate the one year test but from what he's done for several months with ethanol fuel, not an issue.


I have used Sta-Bil from the beginning, if that matters. I did use ethanol fuel for the first couple years, then switched to non-ethanol gas only.


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## toy4two (7 mo ago)

StormReady said:


> As a matter of background, I had my previous EU7000 for about 3 1/2 years and decided to sell it to upgrade to the current version with Bluetooth, etc. My previous unit was in pristine shape and no rust whatsoever and always kept in garage. I've had my current unit for just over 7 months. My neighbor also has the newer version, same unit but purchased about 1 year ago. When my neighbor asked for help with her unit, I also helped fill the gas tank. When removing the gas cap, there was a lot of rust on the fuel tank's rim where the cap connects. I thought that was very unusual for a relatively new unit and one kept in her garage. Also disappointed as I recommended the Honda unit to her. Then due to the recent storm, I too added a few ounces of fuel to the top-off level recommended in manual and noted the beginning of pitting (the beginning of rust) in the identical location of my neighbor's unit - the pitting/rust is under where the gas cap gasket seats to the fuel tank. Cap appears to seat firmly and snug in place so I don't think it's a bad gasket. My unit is also stored in the garage and partially air conditioned from house. I am totally perplexed as my previous unit didn't have any rust at all, was stored in identical location and have always used the suggested E0 fuel. Are there others that have the new version Honda EU7000is for over 7 months that have the same rust problem beginning? I'll get a photo of my neighbor's unit that will show terrible rust while mine appears to just be starting. I did coat the area with motor oil to hopefully slow down the rust.


 buy the VP Racing Mechanic in a Bottle at Home Depot and store it with that. It has oil and stabilizer in it. Will also dissolve any ethanol gummies while its sitting as a bonus! It runs fine in four stroke and very little smoke when the oil burns off on your first tankful in the new season


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## toy4two (7 mo ago)

iowagold said:


> watch the silicone as the honda eu7000is gen has a cat.
> they now make drying socks for fuel cans.
> wix makes them
> pm if you need links.
> ...


only buy 4 stoke gas at Home Depot or lowes or Walmart In power tool section not gas station ethanol blends


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## Dutchy491 (Sep 18, 2019)

Dear toy4two, That’s totally cost prohibitive and impossible during a prolonged power outage, and certainly not necessary. Like many have advised before, find a non-ethanol fuel source in your area and use that in your small engines. Ethanol gas isn’t a big concern while actually running a small engine, but it’s what happens when ethanol fuel SITS in the carburetor for weeks upon weeks. So if using ethanol gas be careful what you do to store the equipment after the task is completed. Drain the ethanol gas from the tank, if not used in it’s entirety, and also drain the carburetor. Store the tank empty or re-fill with NON -ethanol gas and add a name brand stabilizer…😉


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## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

E10 gas isn't absolutely useless. If you use the engine on a daily basis and you go through a tank of gas in about a week or two, there ought to be no issues having ethanol in the fuel. 

It's when the equipment gets to sit dormant for anything longer than a couple of months is when the ethanol begins to really show its nasty side.


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## Dutchy491 (Sep 18, 2019)

Yep I agree with that. I edited my post above to say “Ethanol gas” isn’t a big concern….


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## speedy2019 (Jan 29, 2019)

Like I said Ive been using E5/E10 fuel for 3+yrs, always keep fuel in the tank and never empty the carb.. And I've had no trouble, I just make sure I run the generator monthly


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## Colt Carson (6 mo ago)

You just have to ask yourself if the cost savings of ethanol gas is worth the risk of having a problem when you need it. Seems like it doesn’t take much for a carburetor to fail you. Also consider this… non-ethanol gas has more BTU energy than ethanol gas. So technically your generator engine (running non-ethanol gas) would produce maximum power with better fuel economy.


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## Dutchy491 (Sep 18, 2019)

True enough. My Harley gets a few more miles per gallon when running non-E gas…👍


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

it takes 2x the fuel when on full moonshine.

if the purity was at 100% on the ethanol it would be good for fuel...
the ppm sulfuric acid left over from the mash in prosses is the issue..
nasty stuff.
hard to distill it all out in one shot of distillation.


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## StormReady (Aug 21, 2021)

ebj said:


> I am going back to the original question concerning the rust on the newest purchased Honda. It shouldn’t happen or be a problem with a high end generator like his new Honda or his neighbors Honda. If his older Honda didn’t have the rust problem after 3 1/2 years of use, the new one shouldn’t rust either. It looks like Honda has made some manufacturing decisions that have affected their overall quality. My older Honda generators show no rust in the fuel cap area, and I live where everything rusts from the high humidity.


EBJ, I agree with you and staying on subject. All storage factors of the previous generator used for 3 1/2 years and the new gen for 7 months were the same; location, E0 fuel, etc. So I can't logically determine the source of the issue except the metal used in the unit vs the older unit. I continue to believe the metal, especially after viewing my neighbor's new unit of 16 months (picture below). I wonder what the cost would be to replace tank if the problem gets to the point of my neighbor's rusty fuel neck that I believe is gross for a Honda, no less the EU7000is.


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## StormReady (Aug 21, 2021)

pipe said:


> There are a number of them, using YT search box, easy to find and concatenate the phrase .... taryl fixes all
> 
> The key finding was that ethanol free fuel works, all by itself. Here is the bowl drop of sta-bil with corrosion/gel


I did see Taryl's 13 month test and I believe it says it all; none of those additives (snake oil) worked better than just E10 regular gas. And I just purchased 4 large bottles of Sta-Bil that I'll use up instead of throwing away and never use any more additives in the future. I think Pipe mentioned YamaLube and that may be something to look at - getting confused with all the posts and nobody else having the rust issue.


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## pipe (Jun 27, 2021)

Taryl tested "everything", including "Mechanic in a Bottle", all produced varying levels of corrosion after months of storage and E87 vs E93 showed "regular E87" worked just fine. The key to E0 (VP Racing Fuel) was that although there was significant evaporation, the bowl and the main jet, emulsion tube had no corrosion, no impurities, remained clean.

Reason I use "Yamaha ACC-FSTAB-PL-32 Fuel Stabilizer & Conditioner" --- which BTW, is not quite same as "Yamalube Fuel Conditioner" --- is the direct exposure of marine engines to ocean water plus I buy it in bulk so not very expensive. 

E0 fuel is used in our generators, chippers, lawn mowers, chain saws, concrete cutters, trimmers and also in 2 cycle engines which have a 40:1 or 50:1 fuelil mix. Have had several warehoused Echo and Stihl arborist saws which started up fine after 2 years -- also stored in high humidity.

For Yamaha ACC-FSTAB-PL-32 -- 1 ounce treats 3 gallons for short storage or using right away, otherwise use 1 ounce per gal if storing fuel for 6-8 weeks or greater. So ratio of mix is either 1:3 or 1:1


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## ebj (Apr 5, 2021)

Honda's part site shows a new tank at $65 if you decide to replace it. PartsPak lists it for $42. Not too bad for a new fuel tank, but I think you are approaching it the best way for now using Honda's warranty. It should not be rusting.





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## StormReady (Aug 21, 2021)

pipe said:


> Taryl tested "everything", including "Mechanic in a Bottle", all produced varying levels of corrosion after months of storage and E87 vs E93 showed "regular E87" worked just fine. The key to E0 (VP Racing Fuel) was that although there was significant evaporation, the bowl and the main jet, emulsion tube had no corrosion, no impurities, remained clean.
> 
> Reason I use "Yamaha ACC-FSTAB-PL-32 Fuel Stabilizer & Conditioner" --- which BTW, is not quite same as "Yamalube Fuel Conditioner" --- is the direct exposure of marine engines to ocean water plus I buy it in bulk so not very expensive.
> 
> ...


Was somewhat disappointed that the additives Taryl tested proved useless but good I don't need to purchase more of that snake oil.  Did Taryl test the Yamaha product mentioned above as I didn't see it? Because of Taryl's tests and all of them worthless, is there a test done somewhere that shows the effectiveness of the Yamaha item? And thanks for all that info, very informing and not wasting money on worthless products. I thought that Taryl's testing was quite thorough and not biased.


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## StormReady (Aug 21, 2021)

ebj said:


> Honda's part site shows a new tank at $65 if you decide to replace it. PartsPak lists it for $42. Not too bad for a new fuel tank, but I think you are approaching it the best way for now using Honda's warranty. It should not be rusting.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


The problem is that Honda is already referring me to the dealer. And the dealer doesn't seem inclined to believe something other than humidity is the problem; they just don't get it. My neighbor has to bring her unit in for repair as the first time we started it, the oil light was blinking to check oil, even though the oil level is fine. So the dealer will be able to see the rust first hand other than pictures. Based on the cost of the tank, I would prefer just replacing the tank if the rust problem gets worse - will be taking a wait and see approach before contacting Honda again.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

null


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## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

StormReady said:


> Was somewhat disappointed that the additives Taryl tested proved useless but good I don't need to purchase more of that snake oil.  Did Taryl test the Yamaha product mentioned above as I didn't see it? Because of Taryl's tests and all of them worthless, is there a test done somewhere that shows the effectiveness of the Yamaha item? And thanks for all that info, very informing and not wasting money on worthless products. I thought that Taryl's testing was quite thorough and not biased.


My takeaway there is that using fuel stabilizers with E10 is practically ineffective at controlling water intrusion, phase separation and the subsequent gelling and corrosion on fuel systems. Once you've poured in E10 gas, you'll need to either use it all up or drain it out before storage.

But adding stabilizers to E0 fuel, there's probably still something in like, Stabil to slow down the gas from going stale and really see it lasting the promised "up to 2 years". With E0, you're only worrying about preserving the gasoline and its combustibility. On its own, gasoline has built-in corrosion inhibitors so that should keep everything it coats from rusting.


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## Colt Carson (6 mo ago)

I don’t want to sound like a know-it-all, I’ve got plenty to learn. But concerning these fuel stabilizers and ethanol gas… I worked in a refinery tank field for 29 years. We blended gasoline pretty much 24/7 at over 400,000 gallons per hour. We had a 400 gallon plastic tote with an injection pump that dispensed a small amount of chemical into the running gasoline blend. I’m not very knowledgeable of the chemical, as a contractor was hired to manage the chemicals. We just had to make sure the injection pump was running when the gas blend was running. I know it was an antioxidant/corrosion inhibitor fuel preservative. But remember, the refinery was adding an appropriate amount of chemical for the intended life of the fuel. From our tanks, to the barge/ship or tank truck, to the gas station, to your car and burned. They don’t really intend for people to store this stuff for a year or more. From when it’s blended to when you purchase it might be a couple weeks or a couple months. So I believe the additional fuel preservative added when storing gasoline long term is good insurance. Can I prove it is working? No. But I’ve had no problems while using it either. Now, concerning ethanol… keep that stuff away from your small engines.


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## speedy2019 (Jan 29, 2019)

Ive done the magnet test and it sticks to the tank, but I cannot see any rust on or in the tank after 3yrs of using E5/E10 fuel.. Heres some pics of the rim of the filler hole and the rim is not perfect but not in bad condition considering its outside 24/7. Also here's are pics of the fuel cap opener I made... Im quite impressed with my gen as its a fraction of the price of a honda and its holding up well so far,. Famous last words.. LOL


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## Colt Carson (6 mo ago)

I did some research concerning the magnet test with the gas tank…
Austenitic stainless steels are the more common types of stainless (200 and 300 series). These grades have higher chromium and nickel content. The higher nickel content makes austenitic grades non-magnetic.
Ferritic stainless steels (400 series) have reduced corrosion resistance due to lower nickel and chromium content. This makes ferritic stainless steel magnetic. It is less expensive than austenitic, and typically used for automotive and truck exhaust systems, catalytic converters, kitchen equipment, and roofing just to name a few.


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## StormReady (Aug 21, 2021)

iowagold said:


> watch the silicone as the honda eu7000is gen has a cat.
> they now make drying socks for fuel cans.
> wix makes them
> pm if you need links.
> ...


Iowa Gold, I don't understand. What is wrong with silicone grease under fuel cap?


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## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

StormReady said:


> What is wrong with silicone grease under fuel cap?


It can get into the fuel. Some newer gens (like the EU7000is) have catalytic converters to help lower harmful emissions. Silicone and cat converters don't play well together. Silicone can make its way to the cat by other means too, such as some gasket sealants.

7. Being damaged by silicone contamination from chemical additives or sealants leaked into the exhaust




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## StormReady (Aug 21, 2021)

GenKnot said:


> It can get into the fuel. Some newer gens (like the EU7000is) have catalytic converters to help lower harmful emissions. Silicone and cat converters don't play well together. Silicone can make its way to the cat by other means too, such as some gasket sealants.
> 
> 7. Being damaged by silicone contamination from chemical additives or sealants leaked into the exhaust
> 
> ...


Then what can I use to coat the metal and gasket without doing harm? I coated the metal with motor oil but thinking I should you auto grease on the metal but afraid it will affect the gasket. What do you think?


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## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

The motor oil should work fine. I use motor oil on a lot of things to help prevent/reduce rusting. I put used motor oil on some of my tools and garden equipment. I wouldn't recommend used oil for your fuel cap though.


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## StormReady (Aug 21, 2021)

GenKnot said:


> The motor oil should work fine. I use motor oil on a lot of things to help prevent/reduce rusting. I put used motor oil on some of my tools and garden equipment. I wouldn't recommend used oil for your fuel cap though.


Well I just use new oil if that makes any difference. Any suggestion for the cap gasket?


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## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

StormReady said:


> suggestion for the cap gasket?


Motor oil should work okay.


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