# EU7000is fuel consumption



## JRHill (Nov 19, 2020)

I've got 1800 hrs on the genset at this point. I use it as our backup in an off grid Outback Power setup to charge our batteries in low light so it primarily only runs in the winter. I may also run in high load situations which is about never. It is tied to the the OB stuff with an Automatic Generator Start (AGS). I KNOW from past generators this is the most efficient generator I've ever had but I never put the brain cells into just how much more efficient it is in use.

Within the last year I changed over to lithium storage batteries. From lead batteries the charging is completely different, i.e., no Absorb cycles anymore running hours with relatively little load. In other words, once the generator fires and goes through a low idle warm up for three minutes it connects and runs at full charging output (2.4kW or 20aac) to the batteries, plus the AC house load at the time connected (.2 to .4kW) plus whatever overhead. Then it is done. So when connected its output is relatively consistent.

This last week I logged 9.5 hours of connected time at ~ 2.4-2.6 kW in 5 start/stop cycles. It used slightly less than 5g. BTW, I use non-ethanol premium with a glug of Marvel MO and another of SeaFoam regularly, but I don't think that matters much for consumption.

JIC anyone is curious.


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## pipe (Jun 27, 2021)

Have you done all these at regular intervals? If not, you can do even better as to fuel consumption.



> * Every 6 months or 100 hours*: Change the oil, check the spark plug, and clean the spark arrester. Every year or 300 hours: Replace the air filter and spark plug.


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## JRHill (Nov 19, 2020)

Pipe, yes, I have. Mostly oil changes (Mobile1 10-30) religiously, 200hrs. Every once in a while I get a pop and a shut down. That is ALWAYs the Spark Arrestor. No, I don't do the spark arrestor at 100 hr intervals. I should probably do it more often than every year, ya think?. Actually I'm still running the same air filters - I alternate them after blowing out. The foam element is cleaned, etc.

But the spark arrestor is critical. Not the outer screen but the inner cone. I'd upload pictures but its such a PITB on this forum with a snails connection. This assumes all the minor stuff like clean fuel and filters are normal practice.

That chart you posted from the manual... I've done about half of it at well more than 2x the intervals specified. That chart would sure help to keep the shops busy assuming they can do the most basic of service competently an in less than two months.

Do you do your own service or do you really haul your genset to the shop that often? Or do you not really use it?


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

JRHill said:


> Pipe, yes, I have. Mostly oil changes (Mobile1 10-30) religiously, 200hrs. Every once in a while I get a pop and a shut down. That is ALWAYs the Spark Arrestor. No, I don't do the spark arrestor at 100 hr intervals. I should probably do it more often than every year, ya think?. Actually I'm still running the same air filters - I alternate them after blowing out. The foam element is cleaned, etc.
> 
> But the spark arrestor is critical. Not the outer screen but the inner cone. I'd upload pictures but its such a PITB on this forum with a snails connection. This assumes all the minor stuff like clean fuel and filters are normal practice.
> 
> ...


An often overlooked maintenance item is the fuel pump filter sock. Potential no start issue for high hour machines.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

are you washing the air filter with dawn?
and yes on the spark arrest er every oil change clean it.

or if you are doing a stack style exhaust just remove the spark arrest er screen.

we use the vortex baffle in the stack exhaust to help as an after burn and the quiet.
pm if you need links.


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## JRHill (Nov 19, 2020)

iowagold said:


> "we use the vortex baffle in the stack exhaust to help as an after burn and the quiet."
> pm if you need links.


I'd be interested in looking into this exhaust mod. All I've ever seen are the adaptors with the flex pipe. TIA!


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## LaSwamp (Mar 16, 2021)

Unless you're operating in extremely dry climates, I don't think the spark arrestor is necessary. In my area, it's so wet and damp here that I can simply remove the ones in all of my small engines without issues. How restrictive are they, if anyone knows? They look pretty restrictive, even when clean. The engines seem to run well without them, at least in my experience.


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## Mobilesport (Jan 14, 2020)

I have 3 Honda eu2000i and none of mine came with spark arrestors unless they became old and brittle and the exhaust blew them out.


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## LaSwamp (Mar 16, 2021)

Mobilesport said:


> I have 3 Honda eu2000i and none of mine came with spark arrestors unless they became old and brittle and the exhaust blew them out.


I think that model does come with a spark arrestor. It's mentioned in the owner's manual. As I noted above, one of the first things I do when prepping a new small engine is remove it.


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## JRHill (Nov 19, 2020)

LaSwamp said:


> Unless you're operating in extremely dry climates, I don't think the spark arrestor is necessary. In my area, it's so wet and damp here that I can simply remove the ones in all of my small engines without issues. How restrictive are they, if anyone knows? They look pretty restrictive, even when clean. The engines seem to run well without them, at least in my experience.


I almost agree with that and of course it depends where you live and the risk you're taking. One thing is for sure: the fines and fees associated with getting a fire crew to put out an 'oops will really wreck your day.


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## Mobilesport (Jan 14, 2020)

LaSwamp said:


> I think that model does come with a spark arrestor. It's mentioned in the owner's manual. As I noted above, one of the first things I do when prepping a new small engine is remove it.


The reason I know mine doesn't have spark arrestors is the maintenance book told me to clean them , I went to clean them but nothing there.
The way the book talked they where supposed to come with them.
I bought 2 of the generators from Northern tool.
I bought the 3rd one from the Sportsmans warehouse.
In Iowa.


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## pipe (Jun 27, 2021)

JRHill said:


> That chart you posted from the manual... I've done about half of it at well more than 2x the intervals specified. That chart would sure help to keep the shops busy assuming they can do the most basic of service competently an in less than two months.


Here is the full Honda Eu7000is Service Manual



https://www.precisionusa.com/pdf/Honda_Equip/Honda%20EU7000iS%20Generator%20Shop%20Manual%20(Ser%20No%20EEJD-1000001-9999999).pdf



I do all maintenance, including valve adjustments.


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

Mobilesport said:


> The reason I know mine doesn't have spark arrestors is the maintenance book told me to clean them , I went to clean them but nothing there.
> The way the book talked they where supposed to come with them.
> I bought 2 of the generators from Northern tool.
> I bought the 3rd one from the Sportsmans warehouse.
> In Iowa.


Are you looking in the right spot? The spark arrestor is between the manifold and muffler. You need to remove the muffler to access it.


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## LaSwamp (Mar 16, 2021)

drmerdp said:


> Are you looking in the right spot? The spark arrestor is between the manifold and muffler. You need to remove the muffler to access it.


I have a Honda engine and could not find the spark arrestor. It is the 160 motor. Is that where it's located on that engine as well?


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## JRHill (Nov 19, 2020)

pipe said:


> Have you done all these at regular intervals? If not, you can do even better as to fuel consumption.


Mr Pipe, I'm really glad that I posted my results and some of the feedback here is excellent. Yours included. Yes, I think I can get even better consumption numbers.

1) When I measured the fuel draw in the OP, 9.5hrs on 5g, the next day the unit errored out and shut down on its scheduled run. I knew what it was instantly because of the backfire. It was the spark arrestor. Sure enough the inner cone was mostly plugged visually by fluffy black build-up. Hmm, too rich. Why? So I inspected the air cleaner and as usual it was good and just required a little blow out. The foam almost the same. I changed the oil and did the normal inspections/checks while there with the tools.

2) I have no recollection of having read a caution of filling the fuel tank. I've always filled it to the metal (the red ring just floats around uselessly). I have filled the tank during a run but not often. I understand now these are no-no's and not just because of a spill.

3) I've never washed the foam at dawn. (teasing) I really wish there was a K&N for the 7000. I know many don't like them but I've had good success.

4) Spares. Air filter since there is no reusable. Fuel sock but they can be cleaned if not damaged. Spark plug but I'm still on the original. I'm still debating a fuel pump.

5) Add-ons. Magnetic drain plug. Magnetic dipstick.

6) MY best practices. Conversion to synthetic on the 3rd oil change and go to 200 hour intervals after 500. Non-ethanol fuel and I wish Regular was available. An occasional glug of MMO and SeaFom. A simple housing to keep the weather off of it. The dreaded valve adjustment but is actually not bad at all. Annual mouse inspections under the covers and yes they can and do get in there. Dielectric on connections and plug-ins.

On oil changes the oil still comes out barely tinted. Drain oil is used in the winter to thin out bar lube. Over all, its a wonderful unit and looks to be added to my personal list of 'Most Reliable' equipment along with a Kubota and the LandCruiser. )Hmm, there's a correlation there?)


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## Mobilesport (Jan 14, 2020)

drmerdp said:


> Are you looking in the right spot? The spark arrestor is between the manifold and muffler. You need to remove the muffler to access it.


I watched a video showing where it is so yes I checked in the right spot and I also checked the other pipes .
The video showed it was supposed to be right where you said it's supposed to be.
Maybe it rotted away and got blown out of all three generators.
Idk


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

Mobilesport said:


> I watched a video showing where it is so yes I checked in the right spot and I also checked the other pipes .
> The video showed it was supposed to be right where you said it's supposed to be.
> Maybe it rotted away and got blown out of all three generators.
> Idk


unless the dealer removed the spark arrestor.
some dealers shops do just that as they can make a mess out of an engine unless they are cleaned.
and yes you need them if you are in a state park or federal blm land.
and in some places they do check to make sure you have them on the gen!


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## JVazquez53 (Jul 8, 2021)

JRHill said:


> I've got 1800 hrs on the genset at this point. I use it as our backup in an off grid Outback Power setup to charge our batteries in low light so it primarily only runs in the winter. I may also run in high load situations which is about never. It is tied to the the OB stuff with an Automatic Generator Start (AGS). I KNOW from past generators this is the most efficient generator I've ever had but I never put the brain cells into just how much more efficient it is in use.
> 
> Within the last year I changed over to lithium storage batteries. From lead batteries the charging is completely different, i.e., no Absorb cycles anymore running hours with relatively little load. In other words, once the generator fires and goes through a low idle warm up for three minutes it connects and runs at full charging output (2.4kW or 20aac) to the batteries, plus the AC house load at the time connected (.2 to .4kW) plus whatever overhead. Then it is done. So when connected its output is relatively consistent.
> 
> ...


I run 18-20 hours on 5 gallons. I only use Mobil One 10W30. As for the Seafoam and the Mystery Oil, I've bee told by many professional mechanics that is simple "snake Oil". Won't harm but at the same time does pretty much nothing. The only thing I add is fuel stabilizer just in case I forget to do the monthly startup. I use my 3 generators quite often, I live in an island that electrical power really sucks. After hurricanes Irma and Maria our electrical infrastructure suffered severe damage and 4 years later, they are still struggling to fix it. I have generator for over 20 years and by using only Mobil One, they run perfect. The oldest one died recently (Yamaha 4600 watt) and what died was the electrical part, the engine is becoming a G0-kart. If you get 16-20 hours on your Honda, you should be doing fine.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

we use the seafoam in the fuel.


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## JVazquez53 (Jul 8, 2021)

iowagold said:


> we use the seafoam in the fuel.


What exactly does?


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## LaSwamp (Mar 16, 2021)

JVazquez53 said:


> What exactly does?


Seafoam is a fuel stabilizer and helps maintain carbs.


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## JVazquez53 (Jul 8, 2021)

Same as Stabil? I know that Stabil works, I have used it on all my generators and one of those is over 20 years old. I used Seafoam once on one of my cars and noticed no change/improvements


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## LaSwamp (Mar 16, 2021)

JVazquez53 said:


> Same as Stabil? I know that Stabil works, I have used it on all my generators and one of those is over 20 years old. I used Seafoam once on one of my cars and noticed no change/improvements


Stabil is the standard when it comes to fuel stabilizer. I've used Seafoam as an alternative and it's worked well. On especially gummed up carbs, I've soaked the parts in Seafoam to break down the varnish on them.


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## JVazquez53 (Jul 8, 2021)

LaSwamp said:


> Stabil is the standard when it comes to fuel stabilizer. I've used Seafoam as an alternative and it's worked well. On especially gummed up carbs, I've soaked the parts in Seafoam to break down the varnish on them.


So far, I've have luck, no gummed up carburetors. Two of my generators are Fuel injected and the one with carburetor, has stabilizer plus all three get run monthly.


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## JRHill (Nov 19, 2020)

Since I've gone strictly with Non-ethanol gas I've added no stabilizer to anything. The only equipment that isn't run regularly right now is the mill, the welder and the log splitter which is awaiting a new fuel tank. The mill should probably get some - thx for the reminder. I keep in on the shelf.

As far as additives I really like SeaFoam as is economical and has really made a verifiable difference with something that is acting up and fuel related. The only thing that works better (for me) is the VP tune up stuff. But its really expensive but to be effective it has to be run pure which means draining the tank and refilling with just that. And its REALLY volatile which means I don't want to leave it full strength in the system. There are a few motor heads on this forum and I think there would be a consensus that if one were to run some REAL fuel through the system on occasion it would clean some things up (and clog some fuel filters). So without easy access to some good fuel that is the closest I can get.

As for Marvel MO, I use it for everything from penetrant to machine tool cutting oil to perfume. It just works. And maybe it doesn't do anything with a few glugs in 5 gallons. But it makes me feel better.

As for professional mechanics, well, I won't go there. Everyone has their opinions and for different reasons. But if you haven't wrenched and diagnosed and tuned all you have is someone else's opinions. If their opinions work for you then you should stay the course.

Now, diesel stuff is another subject and a different thread.


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## JRHill (Nov 19, 2020)

JVazquez53 said:


> I run 18-20 hours on 5 gallons.


Yeah, I could say that too. But from the OP the test was measured: three minutes of warm up no load, 1.5hr at 2.4kw (not from the genset but an accurate device) then 1 minute no load cool down. Multiple days. That is as close to measuring fuel per kWh as I can get. Then I confessed that my exhaust system was not at prime and that had to make a difference. There were no ups and downs in load. Oh, one thing I never mentioned is that I have the Eco switch taped to ON. It is always in ECO despite the manual. To me, the whole thing about ECO is to properly warm the unit up. So three minutes is great in our climate. But if it gets to teens F, I go to five minutes.


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## JRHill (Nov 19, 2020)

Hey folks, I've healed my evil ways and am not filling the tank full anymore. But as I mentioned the red ring is loose in the strainer. There's no telling its original position. It's not worth buying a new one....

Next time one of you have the cap off could you note how far down from the top of the strainer it was originally fastened?


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

JRHill said:


> Since I've gone strictly with Non-ethanol gas I've added no stabilizer to anything. The only equipment that isn't run regularly right now is the mill, the welder and the log splitter which is awaiting a new fuel tank. The mill should probably get some - thx for the reminder. I keep in on the shelf.
> 
> As far as additives I really like SeaFoam as is economical and has really made a verifiable difference with something that is acting up and fuel related. The only thing that works better (for me) is the VP tune up stuff. But its really expensive but to be effective it has to be run pure which means draining the tank and refilling with just that. And its REALLY volatile which means I don't want to leave it full strength in the system. There are a few motor heads on this forum and I think there would be a consensus that if one were to run some REAL fuel through the system on occasion it would clean some things up (and clog some fuel filters). So without easy access to some good fuel that is the closest I can get.
> 
> ...


Ethanol free is a bit of luxury but such a great insurance policy. VP 93 fuel is fantastic. It remains viable for years on end with ZERO issue. I’ve only ever used MMO to lubricate a piston and rings before assembling into cylinders. Can’t say much about it but I’m not about to call it simply snake oil. I’m more likely to reach for seafoam



JRHill said:


> Yeah, I could say that too. But from the OP the test was measured: three minutes of warm up no load, 1.5hr at 2.4kw (not from the genset but an accurate device) then 1 minute no load cool down. Multiple days. That is as close to measuring fuel per kWh as I can get. Then I confessed that my exhaust system was not at prime and that had to make a difference. There were no ups and downs in load. Oh, one thing I never mentioned is that I have the Eco switch taped to ON. It is always in ECO despite the manual. To me, the whole thing about ECO is to properly warm the unit up. So three minutes is great in our climate. But if it gets to teens F, I go to five minutes.


I wish the eco mode circuit was tied to the GCU instead of independently connected to the inverter. That way when cold started the generator can keep high rpms to bring the o2 sensor up to temp fast, go into closed loop, then idle down.




JRHill said:


> Hey folks, I've healed my evil ways and am not filling the tank full anymore. But as I mentioned the red ring is loose in the strainer. There's no telling its original position. It's not worth buying a new one....
> 
> Next time one of you have the cap off could you note how far down from the top of the strainer it was originally fastened?


I’ll be fiddling around the house tomorrow, I can measure that for ya.


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## JRHill (Nov 19, 2020)

drmerdp said:


> VP 93 fuel is fantastic. It remains viable for years on end with ZERO issue.
> 
> I’ll be fiddling around the house tomorrow, I can measure that for ya.


TY on the ring position.

As for the good fuel, if could be any of the brand names. My experience is like yours in that it can last years for a small engine. And boy doesn't it smell good. There are just no racers around here :-(


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

JRHill said:


> TY on the ring position.
> 
> As for the good fuel, if could be any of the brand names. My experience is like yours in that it can last years for a small engine. And boy doesn't it smell good. There are just no racers around here :-(


hey jr index finger 2nd knuckle to tip of finger
or about 1.5 inches from the top lip of the tank.

we try for 2 inches below the top lip.


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