# Briggs and Stratton standby generator issue



## jimbo1972

Hello! I am new to the forum and looking for a little help.
In my travels, I acquired a used propane/NG powered B&S 7kW Model 40301 Generator. 
Its set up for propane right now. Fires up and runs like a champ. Good voltage and frequency unloaded and not plugged into anything.
W/ the breaker off but the unit running, I plug the generator into the generator house receptacle (house is set up w/ male 4-prong plug to my fuse panel w/ inter-lock switch installed). As soon as i plug it in (not sending power to the house), the generator trips due to "low frequency)"
Even with the gird power off to the house and the gen plugged into the house but not sending voltage, it still faults due to low freq. 
When I got it, it wouldn't stay running. I traced it back to the control board and replaced that. 
Any ideas? voltage regulator? 
I love troubleshooting and fixing stuff but this has me and my buddies stumped. I am use to big generators (I work on wind turbines). 
Thanks for the help!! 
-Jimbo


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## exmar

Wiring fault in cable or at connector(s)? With the unit running, can you plug something in to one of the 120V receptacles and it works OK? Do you have any additional grounds installed or does the genset pick up ground through the receptacle and back to your service entrance ground as is proper and legal? Some control boards can be sensitive about whether or not the "frame ground" at the genset is connected when there's a service entrance ground present also. Get the B&S manual which should specify whether the frame ground should be connected or disconnected when back feeding a load center.


Good luck,


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## jimbo1972

exmar said:


> Wiring fault in cable or at connector(s)? With the unit running, can you plug something in to one of the 120V receptacles and it works OK? Do you have any additional grounds installed or does the genset pick up ground through the receptacle and back to your service entrance ground as is proper and legal? Some control boards can be sensitive about whether or not the "frame ground" at the genset is connected when there's a service entrance ground present also. Get the B&S manual which should specify whether the frame ground should be connected or disconnected when back feeding a load center.
> 
> 
> Good luck,


Thanks for the reply. This generator does not have outlets. It?s hardwired. I have run my shop vac and an electric space heater off of each leg without any issues. 
This generator also has the neutral and ground seperated so it is code compliant with only one point of ground/neutral in the main panel. 
Any other ideas? All wiring and cables were confirmed in the correct locations and are in good working order. 
-Jimbo


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## KRE

Has it ever worked properly on the house?
If not, lets start from scratch, with out anything plugged in it's OK?
You are able to run a 120Vac load from either leg?
Can you run a 240Vac load from the gen w/o issue?
When you first plug into the house does the engine sound different for just a 1/2 second or longer?


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## jimbo1972

KRE said:


> Has it ever worked properly on the house?
> If not, lets start from scratch, with out anything plugged in it's OK?
> You are able to run a 120Vac load from either leg?
> Can you run a 240Vac load from the gen w/o issue?
> When you first plug into the house does the engine sound different for just a 1/2 second or longer?


I have never hadn?t it working at my house. It?s new to me. 
With it unplugged from the house, it will run all day. 
Yes I can run things on each 120v leg. I have not run anything on 240v yet. 
When I plug it into the house, no rpm change. Just faults after 3-5 seconds in low frequency. 
-Jimbo


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## jimbo1972

I forgot to add, I did replace the control board. When I got it, the previous owner replaced the voltage regulator and swapped two of the wires (one hot and one neutral). I think this did something to the control board because it wouldn?t stay running longer than a minute or two and would not show any fault codes. 
I?m wondering if that VR was damaged from the wires being swapped. There are only three controllers. One main control board, a charging card for the battery and the VR. 
Jimbo


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## KRE

Run something on it that requires 240. if it runs OK your house wiring is wrong an the genset is seeing that an shutting down, as it should. I'm guessing from afar you have a phase or neutral wire in the wrong place.


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## exmar

jimbo1972 said:


> I have never hadn?t it working at my house. It?s new to me.
> With it unplugged from the house, it will run all day.
> Yes I can run things on each 120v leg. I have not run anything on 240v yet.
> When I plug it into the house, no rpm change. Just faults after 3-5 seconds in low frequency.
> -Jimbo



--Reaching here--- Have you been able to measure proper voltages, 120V phase to neutral and 240V phase to phase? Misusing the term phase here, but you should know what I mean. If those are OK, put a 240V load on it and see if it works. If those readings and test are acceptable, the genset is working, look closer at the cabling and connectors. Is the cable manufactured or "built" by somenoe? Sounding more and more like a transposed wire as KRE mentioned. As mentioned previously, control boards can trip out displaying various (unrelated) faults due to neutral issues, e.g. overloaded, etc. Have you verified the connections from the genset connection "box" into your load center? Has your house ever been successfully powered from a genset through the existing wiring?


"4-prong plug to my fuse panel w/ inter-lock switch installed). As soon as i plug it in (not sending power to the house), the generator trips due to "low frequency)" What does not sending power to the house mean? Genset breaker open? 2pole breaker in load center open? If either is open and all you did was connect the cable, the control board is suddenly sensing something as a fault and all you did was connect an open circuit. However the open circuit does supply the needed ground and neutral IF properly connected. 


From this distance, sounding more and more like the genset works fine until you connect your service entrance neutral and ground. Wiring issue or there's a jumper that Briggs wants connected or unconnected to enable the control board to function properly.


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## jimbo1972

exmar said:


> --Reaching here--- Have you been able to measure proper voltages, 120V phase to neutral and 240V phase to phase? Misusing the term phase here, but you should know what I mean. If those are OK, put a 240V load on it and see if it works. If those readings and test are acceptable, the genset is working, look closer at the cabling and connectors. Is the cable manufactured or "built" by somenoe? Sounding more and more like a transposed wire as KRE mentioned. As mentioned previously, control boards can trip out displaying various (unrelated) faults due to neutral issues, e.g. overloaded, etc. Have you verified the connections from the genset connection "box" into your load center? Has your house ever been successfully powered from a genset through the existing wiring?
> 
> 
> "4-prong plug to my fuse panel w/ inter-lock switch installed). As soon as i plug it in (not sending power to the house), the generator trips due to "low frequency)" What does not sending power to the house mean? Genset breaker open? 2pole breaker in load center open? If either is open and all you did was connect the cable, the control board is suddenly sensing something as a fault and all you did was connect an open circuit. However the open circuit does supply the needed ground and neutral IF properly connected.
> 
> 
> From this distance, sounding more and more like the genset works fine until you connect your service entrance neutral and ground. Wiring issue or there's a jumper that Briggs wants connected or unconnected to enable the control board to function properly.


 
Yes I measure proper voltage of 120v phase to neutral and 240v phase to phase. I will have to try a 240v load (all I have is my 3 wire dryer in the house). 
When I plug the generator into the house plug, (with the house on grid power or with the house off grid), generator back feed breaker in the panel open and the 2 pole breaker on the generator open, the gen still faults on low frequency. 
I will ring out all the cables and make sure they are landed on the correct terminals. 
I can fix a 690v wind generator 300' up tower but cant fix a darn B&S Generator! 
Thanks again for the help
-Jimbo


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## jimbo1972

Ok. After work before it got dark, I checked all cabling, connection and terminations. Everything is correct. 
I fired up the gen, checked voltage and frequency. 
Perfect voltage and HZ. 
Checked voltage between neutral and ground which should be nothing.....87V. 
Remove th ground on the gen and plug to the house, it stays running. 
What do you think?
-Jimbo


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## KRE

jimbo1972 said:


> Ok. After work before it got dark, I checked all cabling, connection and terminations. Everything is correct.
> I fired up the gen, checked voltage and frequency.
> Perfect voltage and HZ.
> Checked voltage between neutral and ground which should be nothing.....87V.
> Remove th ground on the gen and plug to the house, it stays running.
> What do you think?
> -Jimbo


I think the stator is ctr tapped somewhere. In reality, depending the MFG of the A/C alternator on small units you can have stray voltage. Take a 5 amp fuse an install it between the neutral an ground, if the unit shuts down or blows the fuse, I'd suspect the main Stator is tapped wrong somewhere. Sounds like the neutral is receiving ctr tapped phase voltage to me. Read the voltage between both Phases to neutral, then do the same with the ground an report back. You will see some difference which is normal, but a big difference is say something is wire wrong.


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## jimbo1972

KRE said:


> I think the stator is ctr tapped somewhere. In reality, depending the MFG of the A/C alternator on small units you can have stray voltage. Take a 5 amp fuse an install it between the neutral an ground, if the unit shuts down or blows the fuse, I'd suspect the main Stator is tapped wrong somewhere. Sounds like the neutral is receiving ctr tapped phase voltage to me. Read the voltage between both Phases to neutral, then do the same with the ground an report back. You will see some difference which is normal, but a big difference is say something is wire wrong.


Here you go...
I couldn't fid a small fuse holder so I didn't get to try to put a fuse between N-G
Phase A-Neutral: 118v
Phase B-Neutral: 118v

Phase A-Ground: 124v
Phase B-Ground: 150v

Ground-Neutral: 82V


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## exmar

Time to get the Briggs manual and delve into the function(s) and wiring of the control and vr boards. Something is definitely off. Alternaely, if you've had enough fun, take to Briggs, it runs and generates power so the cost can't be too painful. IF you have a dealer nearby you trust. As I've indicated previously, have seen control boards that acted very strange depending on where and how grounded and also some have jumpers that have to be positioned properly. Removing the ground now allows the unit to be connected and not trip off would seem to support this. Here's a link to the Briggs Manual






https://shop.briggsandstratton.com/...ubleshooting-guide-see-description-for-models


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## KRE

jimbo1972 said:


> Here you go...
> I couldn't fid a small fuse holder so I didn't get to try to put a fuse between N-G
> Phase A-Neutral: 118v
> Phase B-Neutral: 118v
> 
> Phase A-Ground: 124v
> Phase B-Ground: 150v
> 
> Ground-Neutral: 82V


Before you do anything else, tie the neutral an grounds together using one strand of a 14 gauge stranded wire only an retest the voltage. If it shuts down as before (which I doubt) you have a issue with the B phase, if it runs normal an the voltage is balanced, hook it to the house an try it. If all is well just run it.


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## KRE

jimbo1972 said:


> Ok. After work before it got dark, I checked all cabling, connection and terminations. Everything is correct.
> I fired up the gen, checked voltage and frequency.
> Perfect voltage and HZ.
> Checked voltage between neutral and ground which should be nothing.....87V.
> Remove th ground on the gen and plug to the house, it stays running.
> What do you think?
> -Jimbo


Just reread this, are you saying you have a ground wire from the house to the generator?


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## Predator

I still think you should connect it to a 240v appliance and ensure it works properly on that first as KRE and exmar mentioned.
Rule out a genset issue. Could be a load induced fault.

There can often be a voltage on the neutral compared to ground. How much depends on the load and distance to ground.
Although 87v does sound high to me....but....

A digital VOM can read phantom voltages. A cheaper, less sensitive analog VOM might actually be a valuable tool in your case.


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## jimbo1972

KRE said:


> jimbo1972 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ok. After work before it got dark, I checked all cabling, connection and terminations. Everything is correct.
> I fired up the gen, checked voltage and frequency.
> Perfect voltage and HZ.
> Checked voltage between neutral and ground which should be nothing.....87V.
> Remove th ground on the gen and plug to the house, it stays running.
> What do you think?
> -Jimbo
> 
> 
> 
> Just reread this, are you saying you have a ground wire from the house to the generator?
Click to expand...

Yes sir. From my home fuse panel: two hots, neutral and ground all the way to the outlet outside the house where I plug the gen in. 
Gen has a four wire plug to plug into the house. 
Gen is set up with separated neutral/ground. 
-Jimbo


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## KRE

jimbo1972 said:


> Yes sir. From my home fuse panel: two hots, neutral and ground all the way to the outlet outside the house where I plug the gen in.
> Gen has a four wire plug to plug into the house.
> Gen is set up with separated neutral/ground.
> -Jimbo


The ground from the home is the problem, it's creating a ground loop, because it has voltage on it which it should not have. I tend to believe you have grounding issue in the home as any ground should never have voltage on it. A neutral may or may not have voltage depending the set up or the % of imbalance. Look in your panel an see if the bond screw between the ground an neutral is missing, if it is that is you issue. 
I doubt you have a genset issue at all.


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## jimbo1972

KRE said:


> The ground from the home is the problem, it's creating a ground loop, because it has voltage on it which it should not have. I tend to believe you have grounding issue in the home as any ground should never have voltage on it. A neutral may or may not have voltage depending the set up or the % of imbalance. Look in your panel an see if the bond screw between the ground an neutral is missing, if it is that is you issue.
> I doubt you have a genset issue at all.


In my panel, the grounds/neutrals are all tied together on the same bus bar (older house built before separate grounds/neutrals). 
There is less than 1v between the ground and neutral on the house.
-Jimbo


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## KRE

jimbo1972 said:


> In my panel, the grounds/neutrals are all tied together on the same bus bar (older house built before separate grounds/neutrals).
> There is less than 1v between the ground and neutral on the house.
> -Jimbo


Remove the ground from the house to the genset, bond the genset neutral to the genset ground/frame an only use the three wires to connect to the home, an you should be good.


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## jimbo1972

KRE said:


> Remove the ground from the house to the genset, bond the genset neutral to the genset ground/frame an only use the three wires to connect to the home, an you should be good.



I will give that a try. Does that still meet code? I am assuming yes as I would still have one point of ground/neutral, it is just being moved to the gen.
Thanks for all your input, I really appreciate it.
-Jimbo


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## KRE

jimbo1972 said:


> I will give that a try. Does that still meet code?


 Yes as in reality that is how homes are wired from the power company. You only have three wires from the power company (unless you have 3 phase) an your ground rod picks up the 4th wire. The ground rod is only there to keep the potential voltage between your home electrical devices an earth at the same levels. It gets much deeper than that from a engineering stand point, but that's the short version. On 240Vac devices a ground is only there for fault protection, same on 3 phase systems the ground is only for fault protection as well. You only need a neutral on those if you are ctr tapping a set of coils or a transformer like in 277/480, 120/240 or 120/208 systems.


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## jimbo1972

KRE said:


> jimbo1972 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I will give that a try. Does that still meet code?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes as in reality that is how homes are wired from the power company. You only have three wires from the power company (unless you have 3 phase) an your ground rod picks up the 4th wire. The ground rod is only there to keep the potential voltage between your home electrical devices an earth at the same levels. It gets much deeper than that from a engineering stand point, but that's the short version. On 240Vac devices a ground is only there for fault protection, same on 3 phase systems the ground is only for fault protection as well. You only need a neutral on those if you are ctr tapping a set of coils or a transformer like in 277/480, 120/240 or 120/208 systems.
Click to expand...

I gave it a try. Connected the gen ground to the gen neutral. 
I fired the gen up and it faulted right away. 
I disconnected the gen ground and the gen fired right up without any issues. I measured voltage again. 
Phase A-Neutral: 118v
Phase B-Neutral: 118v
Phase A to Chassis: 152v
Phase B to Chassis: 152v


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## KRE

jimbo1972 said:


> I gave it a try. Connected the gen ground to the gen neutral.
> I fired the gen up and it faulted right away.
> I disconnected the gen ground and the gen fired right up without any issues. I measured voltage again.
> Phase A-Neutral: 118v
> Phase B-Neutral: 118v
> Phase A to Chassis: 152v
> Phase B to Chassis: 152v


Those numbers are about correct for a properly wire an running machine.
Trace the ground wire an tell be where it's hooked up at, because in reality it should be hooked only to the frame. If that is the case trace the neutral, it should be coming out of the main stator with the phase wiring.


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## jimbo1972

Those numbers are about correct for a properly wire an running machine.
Trace the ground wire an tell be where it's hooked up at, because in reality it should be hooked only to the frame. If that is the case trace the neutral, it should be coming out of the main stator with the phase wiring.[/QUOTE]

First off, thanks for all the help. I really appreciate it. I?m learning a lot and am enjoying this challenge. 
The gen neutral is coming from the stator plug and have been confirmed to be in the correct locations. 
There are multiple grounds between the engine, frame, generator and they all connect to a ground lug where the control boards also ground to. 
The only time I have issues is when I try to connect the ground wire from
The cable that connects the generator to the house.


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## KRE

jimbo1972 said:


> First off, thanks for all the help. I really appreciate it. I?m learning a lot and am enjoying this challenge.
> The gen neutral is coming from the stator plug and have been confirmed to be in the correct locations.
> There are multiple grounds between the engine, frame, generator and they all connect to a ground lug where the control boards also ground to.
> The only time I have issues is when I try to connect the ground wire from
> The cable that connects the generator to the house.


No problem on the help.
At this point in time I'd need to see a print of the factory wiring, but the numbers you posted say the genset is correct. I'm wondering if the last owner either added some wires or moved some, as this is not adding up to me. Is this machine a cap excited unit, an does it have brushes or is it brush-less?


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## jimbo1972

KRE said:


> jimbo1972 said:
> 
> 
> 
> First off, thanks for all the help. I really appreciate it. I?m learning a lot and am enjoying this challenge.
> The gen neutral is coming from the stator plug and have been confirmed to be in the correct locations.
> There are multiple grounds between the engine, frame, generator and they all connect to a ground lug where the control boards also ground to.
> The only time I have issues is when I try to connect the ground wire from
> The cable that connects the generator to the house.
> 
> 
> 
> No problem on the help.
> At this point in time I'd need to see a print of the factory wiring, but the numbers you posted say the genset is correct. I'm wondering if the last owner either added some wires or moved some, as this is not adding up to me. Is this machine a cap excited unit, an does it have brushes or is it brush-less?
Click to expand...

Here is a link with the factory wiring diagram. I have traced all wires and everything is correct. The only wires that are not hooked up are the wires that read house hold voltage for the auto transfer/auto start (111 and 112). 


https://www.electricgeneratorsdirect.com/manuals/briggs7kw_man.pdf


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## KRE

jimbo1972 said:


> Here is a link with the factory wiring diagram. I have traced all wires and everything is correct. The only wires that are not hooked up are the wires that read house hold voltage for the auto transfer/auto start (111 and 112).
> 
> 
> https://www.electricgeneratorsdirect.com/manuals/briggs7kw_man.pdf


The way I read that print, if you hook the neutral to the genset ground it should fault out as you putting stray A/C into the DC side of many inputs. (That print an unit looks like generac to me? ) also if you place the switch in auto w/o 240Vac applied to 111 & 112 it should start an run is this correct? The other thing is w/o the 240Vac applied you have no battery charger, so you will need to install one to keep the battery charged.


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## jimbo1972

KRE said:


> jimbo1972 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a link with the factory wiring diagram. I have traced all wires and everything is correct. The only wires that are not hooked up are the wires that read house hold voltage for the auto transfer/auto start (111 and 112).
> 
> 
> https://www.electricgeneratorsdirect.com/manuals/briggs7kw_man.pdf
> 
> 
> 
> The way I read that print, if you hook the neutral to the genset ground it should fault out as you putting stray A/C into the DC side of many inputs. (That print an unit looks like generac to me? ) also if you place the switch in auto w/o 240Vac applied to 111 & 112 it should start an run is this correct? The other thing is w/o the 240Vac applied you have no battery charger, so you will need to install one to keep the battery charged.
Click to expand...

You are correct. B&S and Generac have this same model of generator. 
Yes, I?m auto with nothing connected to the 111 and 112 it fires up and the batter charging does not work with that connection missing. 
The gen did fault when I connected N to G. 
Any idea why the Gen dislikes the house ground?! 
Jimbo


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## KRE

jimbo1972 said:


> You are correct. B&S and Generac have this same model of generator.
> Yes, I?m auto with nothing connected to the 111 and 112 it fires up and the batter charging does not work with that connection missing.
> The gen did fault when I connected N to G.
> Any idea why the Gen dislikes the house ground?!
> Jimbo


Because it's bonded which is the same as hooking the gen neutral to the gen frame at the gen. Just delete the ground in the wiring to the house an you are good, but install a quality battery charger asap. I would install A 10 amp Deltron Battery Tender if it were I as they are a automatic float, as well as equalize charger, which will add years to the battery life.


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## jimbo1972

KRE said:


> jimbo1972 said:
> 
> 
> 
> You are correct. B&S and Generac have this same model of generator.
> Yes, I?m auto with nothing connected to the 111 and 112 it fires up and the batter charging does not work with that connection missing.
> The gen did fault when I connected N to G.
> Any idea why the Gen dislikes the house ground?!
> Jimbo
> 
> 
> 
> Because it's bonded which is the same as hooking the gen neutral to the gen frame at the gen. Just delete the ground in the wiring to the house an you are good, but install a quality battery charger asap. I would install A 10 amp Deltron Battery Tender if it were I as they are a automatic float, as well as equalize charger, which will add years to the battery life.
Click to expand...

Sounds good. I have a good float charger to take care of the battery. Should I ground the gen via a grounding rod? I?m trying to stay safe and within code (for the most part....)


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## KRE

jimbo1972 said:


> Sounds good. I have a good float charger to take care of the battery. Should I ground the gen via a grounding rod? I?m trying to stay safe and within code (for the most part....)


No, do not drive a rod at the genset, that can also cause a ground loop, issue. You generator is grounded via the neutral internally. You can isolate the neutral wire an then with you meter read the resistance between the neutral an machine ground.


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## Predator

So did nixing the Ground do the trick ?


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## jimbo1972

Predator said:


> So did nixing the Ground do the trick ?


I haven't had time to play with it so I will let you know! Hopefully I will find some time to get it up and running.
-Jimbo


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## jimbo1972

Well.....finally had a few minutes to play with the generator. 
Now, it won?t stay running for more than 5-10seconds. 
Voltages are still perfect. Ground had been removed. 
From what I have read in the service manual, I measured my frequency and I am getting 120hz. It appears that is what?s shutting the gen down. 
Engine speed hasn?t changed and voltages are perfect. 
Any ideas?? 
-Jimbo


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## KRE

Is it hooked to the house when you see the 120 hz? What kind of Hertz meter are you using an where are you reading from?


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## jimbo1972

KRE said:


> Is it hooked to the house when you see the 120 hz? What kind of Hertz meter are you using an where are you reading from?


I have a good quality multimeter. I checked grid frequency and it?s dead on 60hz. 
No, the gen is not hooked to the house. Unplugged from my house and just fired up. I?m taking the reading at the control board to ground (where the manual says to check it). It?s a black wire coming g out out of the gen up to the board. 
-Jimbo


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## KRE

If you have a zero cross over hertz meter a genarac will read that way depending where you check hertz at. Read between the two hot phase an your readings should be correct, if not, you have an issue within the excitation system which is not uncommon for that makers machines, (all of them)


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## jimbo1972

KRE said:


> If you have a zero cross over hertz meter a genarac will read that way depending where you check hertz at. Read between the two hot phase an your readings should be correct, if not, you have an issue within the excitation system which is not uncommon for that makers machines, (all of them)


Last time I checked, I had about 60hz across the two hots. The control board isn?t not liking the 120hz and shutting me down on over freq. how do your fix the excitation on these machines (it?s a Briggs but Same set up as a generac).


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## KRE

First, Did you check the hertz between the two hot Phases ?


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## jimbo1972

KRE said:


> First, Did you check the hertz between the two hot Phases ?


I will first thing tomorrow and let you know! 
Thanks for help


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## jimbo1972

KRE said:


> First, Did you check the hertz between the two hot Phases ?


Ok, here is what I found...
-Pin 8 on the control board to ground, I?m showing about 120Hz
-Pin 8 on the board to neutral, I get 120v. 
-Pin 8 is what monitors frequency. 
-Frequency between the two hots was a little jumpy but shower about 62Hz. 
-Voltage was 120v each leg.


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## KRE

What is the wire number on that pin? The link you added, is the correct print for that unit? Asking because pin 8 is showing different systems on the two different pages.


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## jimbo1972

KRE said:


> What is the wire number on that pin? The link you added, is the correct print for that unit? Asking because pin 8 is showing different systems on the two different pages.


Wire number 66A. I have the troubleshooting/repair manual. To test frequency, it says to measure it from pin 8 (66a) to ground.


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## KRE

66a in the upper print shows battery charging
66a in the lower shows ties to CB one 

follow the wire (66a) an tell me were in fact it really goes.


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## jimbo1972

KRE said:


> 66a in the upper print shows battery charging
> 66a in the lower shows ties to CB one
> 
> follow the wire (66a) an tell me were in fact it really goes.



66a goes from the control board all the way down to the pin 6 on the plug that connects to the generator.


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## KRE

Before you said it was shutting down on low hertz, now it's shutting down on over speed is that correct? 

If you seen about 60 +/- hertz between the two hot phases your hertz is correct an you other reading are just typical generac electrical issues. 

At this point in time w/o being there, I suggest you ohm an meg the generator, complete. Trace every wire per the print an double check for any lose or corroded wiring connections. If it all checks out you either have a defective control board, or voltage reg. A O/scope will rule out the VR if you have one or can get on to use.

One last thing have you check for a A/C ripple from your battery charger? If not, just unplug it an retest the unit an see what happens.


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## jimbo1972

KRE said:


> Before you said it was shutting down on low hertz, now it's shutting down on over speed is that correct?
> 
> If you seen about 60 +/- hertz between the two hot phases your hertz is correct an you other reading are just typical generac electrical issues.
> 
> At this point in time w/o being there, I suggest you ohm an meg the generator, complete. Trace every wire per the print an double check for any lose or corroded wiring connections. If it all checks out you either have a defective control board, or voltage reg. A O/scope will rule out the VR if you have one or can get on to use.
> 
> One last thing have you check for a A/C ripple from your battery charger? If not, just unplug it an retest the unit an see what happens.


Thanks for the info. I am actually not getting any fault codes. Reading the troubleshooting manual, it says that high freq can fault the unit without a code. 
I have traced all the wires and connections. Everything checks correct. 
The control board is new along with the VR. The issue happens with the old board and old VR also. 
No battery charger is connected at that time.


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## KRE

Have you tried unplugging the LOP switch ?


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## jimbo1972

KRE said:


> Have you tried unplugging the LOP switch ?


What is the LOP switch? I have not tried unplugging anything except for the 66a wire. When I unplug that, it shuts down the same as it would
With it plugged in.


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## jimbo1972

Never mind! I just realized you meant Low oil switch. I have not bypassed it. I will give that a try


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## jimbo1972

KRE said:


> Have you tried unplugging the LOP switch ?


This generator is trying to kill me.....
-Checked the LOP, no change. 
-jumped the fuel solenoid to keep the engine running, went to test voltages and frequency.....nothing. 
Have barely any voltage on the hots and no frequency! 
Where did it go??!!?
-When its jumpered to run, it faults on “failed to start” as it’s not seeing a freqency on the control card


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## KRE

jimbo1972 said:


> This generator is trying to kill me.....
> -Checked the LOP, no change.
> -jumped the fuel solenoid to keep the engine running, went to test voltages and frequency.....nothing.
> Have barely any voltage on the hots and no frequency!
> Where did it go??!!?
> -When its jumpered to run, it faults on “failed to start” as it’s not seeing a freqency on the control card


In my 50+ years of doing this Hertz will always read w/o any voltage at all?


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## jimbo1972

In my 50+ years of doing this Hertz will always read w/o any voltage at all?[/QUOTE]

I have about 50v between the two hots now. 1.0 hz between the hots. 
I still have 120+/- hz at the control board to ground


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## KRE

At this point I don't know what the issue is, unless the stator is shorted, did you ever meg an ohm it?


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## jimbo1972

KRE said:


> At this point I don't know what the issue is, unless the stator is shorted, did you ever meg an ohm it?


I have not megged or ohmed it


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## ToolLover

maybe a bad circuit breaker?


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## WV Hillbilly

KRE said:


> Remove the ground from the house to the genset, bond the genset neutral to the genset ground/frame an only use the three wires to connect to the home, an you should be good.


No. Do not remove the ground from anywhere! The ground is needed from the panel all the way to gen. Hansen the 4 wire cord, cord cap, and inlet. Your problem is that the gen is reading a ground fault! Problem is in the panel. All neutrals and grounds needs to be separated! The gen produces it's own neutral. Separate all grounds and neutrals in panel. Problem solved!


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## ToolLover

First I need to touch on the post by WV Hillbilly:
Jimbo posted that he had an older breaker panel that does not have the ground and neutral seperated.
Most of the time the utility is brought in by Service Entrance Cable and the neurtal is actually touching the chassis of the breaker box.
That in itself makes it impossible to septerate the ground from the neutral.
Now,
1st, I am curious Jimbo, where you got the replacement controler for the Briggs. Sears parts?
2nd, inside the generator cabinet what did you find?
Auto Manual Switch?
30 amp circuit breaker?
Small 35 vac transformer?
Circuit board with 18 pin plug?
Start relay?
Trouble LED?
Small fuse holder for glass fuse?
Common Ground lug?
Did you find a Auto Voltage Regulator? (AVR) I doubt it! It is too old maybe, but I am guessing.
Now another question, did you get a transfer switch with the Briggs?
The transfer switch removes the 240 vac to tell the circuit board when the generator needs to start after loss of utility.
If you found the above items inside the generator box, you need to look further into the forum posts.
There is a full explanation for a 19310 Briggs Stratton generator there and also schematic info and yours sounds similar.
This voltage problem requires that you first run the generator without being connected to your home and read the voltages in that mode.
Then again, you could have a later model Briggs and you need to google for a schematic.


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