# Confused about power to BUS



## StormReady (Aug 21, 2021)

I’m totally confused about an item. I have a Honda EU7000is and it’s connected to my panel box with an interlock switch and have only been using receptacle #4 (4 prong outlet). I know I can switch generator to 120/240 volts or just 120 volts. My question is this: When using receptacle #4 with generator switched to 120/240, it provides 22.9 amps for each hot terminal for a total of 45.8 amps. Am I correct in assuming that each terminal, 4A & 4B provides power to a different bus in panel with each bus receiving a max of 22.9 amps? If my thinking is correct, then I’m confused because if generator is switched to 120 volts, it produces 30 amps but only to one terminal, terminal 4A and nothing to terminal 4B. Is the power going to both bus lines or just to one? Does this make sense???


----------



## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

You're referring to Page 37-38 of the manual?



> When using receptacle #4 with generator switched to 120/240, it provides 22.9 amps for each hot terminal for a total of 45.8 amps.


22.9A total only, not 45.8A. Remember that when the switch is set to 120/240V, the two inverter "windings" are wired in series.



> if generator is switched to 120 volts, it produces 30 amps but only to one terminal, terminal 4A and nothing to terminal 4B. Is the power going to both bus lines or just to one?


When the selector is set to 120V only, the inverter "windings" are connected in parallel so it can deliver 2 x 22.9A = 45.8A. However, receptacle #4 is only rated for 30A. Assuming you were able to max that out of 4A, the remaining 15.8A is available between receptacles 1, 2, and 3.

As per the manual, 4B is disconnected.


----------



## StormReady (Aug 21, 2021)

OrlyP said:


> You're referring to Page 37-38 of the manual?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Still confused. Page 64 at bottom of page in Owner's Manual (current model) states that when 120V/240V selected, receptacles 1, 3 & 4B provides 22.9A, and receptacles 2 and 4A produces 22.9. Maybe I'm reading more into it but I read when only using receptacle 4, one producing circuit produces 22.9 amps to 4A and 22.9 amps to 4B. I do see that when switched to 120V, only the 4A receptacle is active and produces 30A as you mentioned.


----------



## StormReady (Aug 21, 2021)

Ok, I looked at the manual again and on the same page it does distinguish between Power Producing Circuit 1 and Power Producing Circuit 2 - with each one, 4A & 4B producing 22.9A each. I was really driving to ask a related but different question but thought I would get this one answered first. What do you think?


----------



## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

pm if you need links for fixing this issue.
we have a 50 amp outlet mod we do on all of our eu7000is gens for a solution.


----------



## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

EDIT: The manual is correct. 










I have looked at the schematic and below, I have marked which receptacle is which and by all accounts, when the switch is set to 120V only, 4B (Blue wire from 4B to the switch) is diconnected and becomes floating.


----------



## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

yup
that is why we use an 50 amp outlet.


----------



## StormReady (Aug 21, 2021)

OrlyP said:


> EDIT: The manual is correct.
> 
> View attachment 11276
> 
> ...


Wow, I sure missed that one. I truly appreciate your explanation and I should probably move on. But when focusing on the chart for 120V/240V and only this for the following, I understand the balancing issue but still puzzled about what I'm reading in the first chart shown above. My interpretation, and obviously I'm wrong based upon what you're saying, is that each power producing circuit produces no more than a total of 22.9A across certain receptacles with certain receptacles maxing out at 20A. And what I get out of that is the meaning of 4A-4B, being that each terminal (4A & 4B) provides 22.9A max since each terminal is on a separate power producing circuit. And if I understand what you're saying, then 4A receives a max of 11.45A and 4B receives a max of 11.45A totaling 22.9A for receptacle #4, while receptacles 2 & 3 can provide up to 20A each. This would mean that when using receptacle #4, one can only receive a max of 2748 watts while receptacle #2 (a 120 volt receptacle) can receive up to 20A or 2400 watts, but with all receptacles combined, no more that 22.9A. This just doesn't make sense to me as I have a 7K generator with 5K running that only produces 2748 watts with receptacle #4, the receptacle that most people use to run their home via their panel.


----------



## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

StormReady said:


> This just doesn't make sense to me as I have a 7K generator with 5K running that only produces 2748 watts with receptacle #4


22.9A for each 120V winding.
In series and producing 240v, then 22.9A X 240V = 5496 W


----------



## StormReady (Aug 21, 2021)

I believe that's the way I see it, 22.9A per winding at 120V. If using only receptacle #4 (4 prong), and switched to 240V, the power producing circuits are separate and wouldn't each winding be producing up to 22.9A on terminal 4A and 22.9A on terminal 4B with max on receptacle #4 of 30A?


----------



## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

StormReady said:


> Wow, I sure missed that one. I truly appreciate your explanation and I should probably move on. But when focusing on the chart for 120V/240V and only this for the following, I understand the balancing issue but still puzzled about what I'm reading in the first chart shown above. My interpretation, and obviously I'm wrong based upon what you're saying, is that each power producing circuit produces no more than a total of 22.9A across certain receptacles with certain receptacles maxing out at 20A. And what I get out of that is the meaning of 4A-4B, being that each terminal (4A & 4B) provides 22.9A max since each terminal is on a separate power producing circuit. And if I understand what you're saying, then 4A receives a max of 11.45A and 4B receives a max of 11.45A totaling 22.9A for receptacle #4, while receptacles 2 & 3 can provide up to 20A each. This would mean that when using receptacle #4, one can only receive a max of 2748 watts while receptacle #2 (a 120 volt receptacle) can receive up to 20A or 2400 watts, but with all receptacles combined, no more that 22.9A. This just doesn't make sense to me as I have a 7K generator with 5K running that only produces 2748 watts with receptacle #4, the receptacle that most people use to run their home via their panel.


There are two things to balance here.... balancing the load across L1 and L2 if in 120/240V mode, as well as balancing the load across the different receptacles.

But first, some basic concepts....

When the stator windings are connected in series, the voltages of each leg is added but the current stays the same. When the stator windings are in parallel, the voltage stays the same but the current capability of each leg are added/combined.

In series configuration (LEFT diagram), if you're going to use 120V appliances, you'll need to spread them along L1 and L2... see noted A and B below... as each leg can only handle half of the generator capacity. However, 240V appliances (note C) will pull the same amount of current from both legs (balanced). Both stators can only do 22.9A so there's a need to balance your 120V appliances between both legs.

In parallel configuration (RIGHT diagram), the two legs are folded together so the current capability is now L1 + L2 = 22.9A + 22.9A = 45.8A (note D).










It doesn't stop there. It's not enough to balance them between L1 and L2, however. Since not all receptacles are designed to handle the max current of 22.8 or 44.8A, you'll need to spread your load appropriately along the different receptacles while considering which leg they are getting their power from. This is where iowagold's proposal comes in.... to replace the #4 receptacle from a 30A to a 50A.... then, you'll be able to overcome the limit of the factory receptacles and just focus on balancing your 120V loads across L1 and L2.

I hope I haven't made it any more confusing.


----------



## StormReady (Aug 21, 2021)

Ok, I believe I've got it now. With switch set to 12V/240V, with the power producing circuits being, hypothetically, perfectly balanced when running, and with #4 receptacle maxing out at 30A, the max wattage I would be able to obtain on receptacle #4 would be 15A on each hot wire, 4A and 4B totaling 3600 watts. Is this correct?


----------



## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

StormReady said:


> Ok, I believe I've got it now. With switch set to 12V/240V, with the power producing circuits being, hypothetically, perfectly balanced when running, and with #4 receptacle maxing out at 30A, the max wattage I would be able to obtain on receptacle #4 would be 15A on each hot wire, 4A and 4B totaling 3600 watts. Is this correct?


You can potentially get as much as 22.9A from 4A and 4B.... individually, or at the same time.


----------



## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

StormReady said:


> Is this correct?


No. It is 22.9A X 240V = 5496 W


----------



## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

StormReady said:


> with #4 receptacle maxing out at 30A, the max wattage I would be able to obtain on receptacle #4 would be 15A on each hot wire


Maybe you are misunderstanding the breaker. The breaker is a double-pole device with 30A max on each leg (not 15A).


----------



## StormReady (Aug 21, 2021)

Yes, potentially, 22.9A from each circuit, 22.9A x 240V = 5496 running watts, I get that one. When only using receptacle #4, I'm limited to a total of 30A by receptacle and by circuit breaker in panel. If so, and switch is set to 120V240V, is the 30A receptacle wattage equivalent to 30A x 240V (7200 W) or 30A x 120V (3600 W)?


----------



## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

StormReady said:


> is the 30A receptacle wattage equivalent to 30A x 240V (7200 W) or 30A x 120V (3600 W)?


It would be 30A x 240V (7200 W)


----------



## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

To trip a double-pole breaker, one of the legs has to exceed the breaker rating. In this case (30A breaker) you can have up to 30A on each of the two legs. Of course, that is the surge rating of the gen and not the continuous rating. The continuous rating is 22.9A per leg for the 240V receptacle.


----------



## StormReady (Aug 21, 2021)

Yes, I'm finding I'm in the dark about so much and thank you all for your help. I thought the breaker was a total of 30A but it's 30A per leg. Therefore, the receptacle and breaker can take up to 7200 watts not withstanding the generator. So getting back to my original question about receptacle #4 when switched to 120V/240V - the generator will produce up to 22.9A x 240 or 5496 watts on that one receptacle? Right?


----------



## StormReady (Aug 21, 2021)

Ok, I believe I really have it based on what you explained and something I just read. I was just reading a flyer that was given me separate from the manual. Based upon what you explained with everything, Terminal 4A goes to one leg in the panel box and 4B goes into another leg, each being powered by a separate power producing circuit. As I read the flyer given me written by Honda, it states "When the voltage selector switch is in the 120V only position, receptacle 4 should not be used, as only leg 4A will be powered." That is all new to me as I wouldn't think it would matter if using receptacle 4 switched to 120V knowing only one leg would be powered if that's the only leg you're using in the household.


----------



## StormReady (Aug 21, 2021)

When I purchased the generator, I also purchased a short cord that fits into the #4 receptacle to be used when switch is in the 12V position. The other end that plugs into the power inlet box has a jumper to connect both hot terminals. Now I understand why, that is, it will power both legs of the panel box with the switch in the 120V position. Never used the cable but I see now how it can be useful if not using 240V items and not having to balance the generator.


----------



## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

StormReady said:


> The other end that plugs into the power inlet box has a jumper to connect both hot terminals. Now I understand why, that is, it will power both legs of the panel box with the switch in the 120V position.


Yup, that is what that cord is for. You just have to turn off all your 240V breakers and then you will have the full 120V capacity (5496 W) of the gen available at the panel for 120V loads.

Edit: Oops, I think that's not true. You would only have half of that available at #4 receptacle. You would have to use the L5-30R receptacle to get 5496W. Maybe need to see a photo of this cord. It should look like this...


----------



## Browse Deweb (Jan 16, 2021)

If you're using the 4 prong receptacle from the generator and feeding it into your panel, leave the generator switch in the 240V position. This will power both legs of your panel and will allow you to use the circuits fed by any double pole breakers. You will get a maximum of 7000 VA out of the generator, 29.1A feeding each leg. Continuous power will be 5500 VA or 22.9A on each leg. If you're using a lot of power from 120V devices (for example a microwave, window air conditioner, blow dryer, shop vac, portable heater, etc.), just make sure those circuits are balanced on different legs of the panel based on how you may be using any of those devices simultaneously.

Looking at a typical load center, each leg typically alternates when looking at circuit breakers on either side of the panel. Left side top breaker may be leg 1, and the breaker immediately beneath it is leg 2, etc. This is why 240V double pole breakers take up adjacent 2 slots on a single side.

Any 240V devices will work properly if their power draw is under what the generator can handle, assuming not much other stuff in the house is taking a lot of power. I turn off my main 4-ton HVAC unit when I'm on generator power since it draws much more power than the EU7000IS can handle. The Honda easily handles everything else...including a 240V 15k BTU mini split and a 240V pool pump, along with all the stuff on 120V circuits.


----------



## StormReady (Aug 21, 2021)

I stand corrected - my wire is identical to your photo. Haven't used it yet but when and if a storm hits, I bought a 120V portable A/C unit for the bedroom and that may be a good time to do like you said, turn off the 240V breakers and connect this wire for 120V usage and not worry about balancing. Thanks for all your help as I feel enlightened with knowing more about breakers, panel legs and generator. Iowagold provided some good info too awhile back with wiring but I had already removed my 10 ga. wiring of about 20' in conduit to 8 ga. Maybe if I move, will consider a 50A setup. Thanks again.


----------



## StormReady (Aug 21, 2021)

GenKnot said:


> Yup, that is what that cord is for. You just have to turn off all your 240V breakers and then you will have the full 120V capacity (5496 W) of the gen available at the panel for 120V loads.
> 
> Edit: Oops, I think that's not true. You would only have half of that available at #4 receptacle. You would have to use the L5-30R receptacle to get 5496W. Maybe need to see a photo of this cord. It should look like this...
> View attachment 11286


GenKnot, I think I missed something here. If I do what is said above, the gen outlet #1 only outputs 30A at 120V. Even though the cable above is jumped to power both hot terminals into the inlet box, aren't we still limited in output power of gen by 30A? So how did you acquire the available wattage number?


----------



## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

Sorry. You are right, my bad. I am not only confusing you, but I am confusing myself.

Okay, let's start with what the manual says...








So, 45.8A is available when in the 120V only mode, but that is spread across the outlets. I think where I went off track is the mention of changing out the receptacle to 50A per Iowagold's mod suggestion. I have not seen that mod, but I would assume that the mod would be a 50A receptacle and a 50A breaker. The idea would be to bring all the available 45.8A to one receptacle and get the full 5496W from that.


----------



## StormReady (Aug 21, 2021)

GenKnot said:


> Sorry. You are right, my bad. I am not only confusing you, but I am confusing myself.
> 
> Okay, let's start with what the manual says...
> View attachment 11288
> ...


Thanks. Too much already has gone over my head so I figured I missed something. So the max watts available would be 3600. from receptacle #1.


----------



## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

StormReady said:


> So the max watts available would be 3600. from receptacle #1


Yes. That is the maximum allowable for a L5-30R receptacle.
To get 50A (actually 45.8A) @ 120V the receptacle would need to be changed (and the breaker too). Otherwise you are stuck with using the L14-30R receptacle and then you are limited to 30A (actually 22.9A) per leg.


----------



## StormReady (Aug 21, 2021)

Ok, no problem understanding if switched to 120V but have two other questions. When switched to 120V/240V, total current is 22.9A at 240V for a total of 5496 watts available. 1.) When balancing the load, is there a wattage deviation or percentage allowance that generator can be out-of-balance, for example by 10% or no more than 400 watts of power usage? I wouldn't think that the gen needs to be perfectly balanced. I ask as I do have a meter that shows wattage being used from each circuit. 2.) Getting back to the 5496 watts and this is probably considered an ignorant question but here goes. Technically, I could simply use all 120V devices (no 240V appliances) up to 5496 watts as long as the circuits are balanced, right? If so, then I would obtain about 52% more available power being switched to 120V/240V than if I used receptacle #1 at 30A @ 120V. I wonder now whether using that cord previously mentioned is worthwhile since available wattage from receptacle #1 is only 3600 watts, unless of course, I would otheerwise expect an out-of-balanace gen from expected power usage.


----------



## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

StormReady said:


> I could simply use all 120V devices (no 240V appliances) up to 5496 watts as long as the circuits are balanced, right?


Yes



StormReady said:


> I would obtain about 52% more available power being switched to 120V/240V than if I used receptacle #1 at 30A @ 120V.


Actually, it would be 100% more available power if balanced.

Since this is an inverter generator, the electronics dictate things a little differently than a conventional genset. It seems that you are limited to 22.9A maximum per leg in the 120/240 mode. So, there appears to be no deviation to go beyond 22.9A per leg (excluding surge). However, it doesn't say that you can't have an imbalanced load. It says that the two circuits act "like two separate generators". I would guess that you could have 22.9A on one leg and 0A on the other and the gen would be just fine. Of course, it is important to balance the loads in the 120/240 mode between the two legs if you are trying to get the most power out of it.

That said, to achieve the maximum power from the unit and not worry about balance, it seems to me that the 120 only mode is better if the breaker and receptacle were changed out per iowagold's mod. You would connect both 120V legs (L1 & L2) in your panel together and then wire between them and neutral to power all 120V loads (all 240 breakers off). This would require skills (not to mention interlocks) that may make some people shy away from doing.

Someone with more experience than me with an eu7000is may have a different idea about this.


----------



## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

What did I miss? Dang time zones! lol

Anyway, I hope the OP got his answers. It can be confusing at first because in 120/240V mode, you're balancing between the inverter legs as well as the receptacles. While in 120V mode, you're just balancing between receptacles.

But at any point in time and in any mode, you can only get 5,496W max out of the generator. It's just a question of how you get them out.


----------



## StormReady (Aug 21, 2021)

I won't be using multiple receptacles at the same time, just one, and either #1 or #4 so that simplifies things somewhat. During a power outage, I plan on using a portable A/C (120V) and not much else during the night. The specs on the A/C unit is 10A at 115V. That said, I'm thinking maybe I should switch the gen to 120V during the night, assuming the A/C's surge power is not an issue. I'm trying to avoid a load balancing issue if gen is switched to 120V/240V since not much of anything else will be running. My well is another story as that definitely takes 240V and I need to turn all other breakers off when starting the well due to its surge. But the well will be off most of the time.


----------



## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

Oh, you have a 240V load. In that case, you pretty much have to use #4 and load balance as best you can.


----------



## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

StormReady said:


> I won't be using multiple receptacles at the same time, just one, and either #1 or #4 so that simplifies things somewhat. During a power outage, I plan on using a portable A/C (120V) and not much else during the night. The specs on the A/C unit is 10A at 115V. That said, I'm thinking maybe I should switch the gen to 120V during the night, assuming the A/C's surge power is not an issue. I'm trying to avoid a load balancing issue if gen is switched to 120V/240V since not much of anything else will be running. My well is another story as that definitely takes 240V and I need to turn all other breakers off when starting the well due to its surge. But the well will be off most of the time.


Sure, set it to 120V so you get up to 30A (from a budget of 45.8A) off receptacle #4. But if you change it to a 50A receptacle as iowagold mentioned, you can utilize the full 45.8A out of #4.

You will then have to manually schedule the changeover to 240V, as you've said, to run the well pump. What's the surge and running amps on the pump?


----------



## StormReady (Aug 21, 2021)

OrlyP said:


> Sure, set it to 120V so you get up to 30A (from a budget of 45.8A) off receptacle #4. But if you change it to a 50A receptacle as iowagold mentioned, you can utilize the full 45.8A out of #4.
> 
> You will then have to manually schedule the changeover to 240V, as you've said, to run the well pump. What's the surge and running amps on the pump?


Was limited to specs received from pump manufacturer but told that I have a 1 HP pump with about 8,300 surge (seems quite high). The tech explained that due to the configuration and shape of the well pump, there is an inordinate amount of surge. I did try running the pump with all other breakers off and it started just fine. There was a very high blip in the wattage meters for a split second. Because of the high surge, I decided if I need to use the pump for an extended period like showering, I would start my lawn sprinkler system to keep pump running continuously.


----------



## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

Maybe if you can install an appropriate soft start on the pump, you'll be able to run everything in 120/240V mode.


----------



## StormReady (Aug 21, 2021)

OrlyP said:


> Maybe if you can install an appropriate soft start on the pump, you'll be able to run everything in 120/240V mode.


The soft start sounds like a good idea but I wouldn't know where to start except to contact well company. There is a control box for the well to assist in starting so maybe it already has one. I can call the well company and find out.
But it appears my best solution is to use the 120V/240V mode to obtain max power from the gen without getting involved with doing mods i.e. 50A outlet. So my confusion or lack of knowledge at this point is load balancing. Since I would only be using one receptacle, #4, there is no need to balance across the receptacles but circuits. My only question then is how precise must load balancing be without doing harm to the gen. I would think that Honda would provide an idea percentage wise or wattage, like be within 15% of each circuit or 400 watts as I don't believe one can have the load perfectly balanced. I've read a couple of years ago that if the load is too unbalanced, the gen would start shaking. Others have said they never experienced indications of an imbalanced load. So I don't know what to think.


----------



## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

When talking about 120/240V mode, there's no such thing as a percentage difference... at least none that I'm aware of. The idea is to NOT overload either of the legs. That's it.

L1 could be at 75% while L2 is at 15% and it should be fine like that. Problem arises when you connect another load on L1, OR start a 240V appliance which could take L1 from 75% to overload.

It's just best practice to spread your load over both 120V legs. That will give you the best headroom for transient surges.


----------



## StormReady (Aug 21, 2021)

OrlyP said:


> When talking about 120/240V mode, there's no such thing as a percentage difference... at least none that I'm aware of. The idea is to NOT overload either of the legs. That's it.
> 
> L1 could be at 75% while L2 is at 15% and it should be fine like that. Problem arises when you connect another load on L1, OR start a 240V appliance which could take L1 from 75% to overload.
> 
> It's just best practice to spread your load over both 120V legs. That will give you the best headroom for transient surges.


I never knew what you explained. Therefore, I'll probably just use the 240V setting and only be concerned when turning on the pump. Question: Regarding 240V devices - if only using 240V equipment/devices and not 120V, the gen would always be balanced since the power output is equally distributed equallly from each circuit to each leg; is this correct?


----------



## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

StormReady said:


> the gen would always be balanced since the power output is equally distributed equallly from each circuit to each leg; is this correct?


Yes

Look at the drawing in post #30. The 240V loads automatically balance (that is, draw current) from both 120V legs equally. The limitation is that you cannot draw more than 22.9A from either leg.


----------



## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

StormReady said:


> I never knew what you explained. Therefore, I'll probably just use the 240V setting and only be concerned when turning on the pump. Question: Regarding 240V devices - if only using 240V equipment/devices and not 120V, the gen would always be balanced since the power output is equally distributed equallly from each circuit to each leg; is this correct?


That is correct.


----------



## StormReady (Aug 21, 2021)

Yes, I did see that but I thought that the 240V loads are balanced and available at the gen without power usage, in other words, available for usage. With power usage, I assumed that load balancing would be necessary. As I looked at my wattage meter when gen is operating without using any power, the wattage usage is at zero and gen is perfectly balanced. But when I start using power items in house, the wattage is different for each circuit meaning they are out-of-balance. But how much out-of-balance that Honda deems unacceptable seems to be the question.


----------



## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

StormReady said:


> But how much out-of-balance that Honda deems unacceptable seems to be the question.


"Unacceptable" would be loading more than 22.9A on either of the two legs. Anything under that is acceptable.

So, if you had a 240V device that uses 10A, then that would leave a maximum of 12.9A available for 120V loads to use on each leg.


----------



## StormReady (Aug 21, 2021)

GenKnot said:


> "Unacceptable" would be loading more than 22.9A on either of the two legs. Anything under that is acceptable.
> 
> So, if you had a 240V device that uses 10A, then that would leave a maximum of 12.9A available for 120V loads to use on each leg.


But wouldn't a 240V device use an equal amount from each leg? In other words, if using a 10A device, it would use 5A from each leg?


----------



## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

StormReady said:


> But wouldn't a 240V device use an equal amount from each leg? In other words, if using a 10A device, it would use 5A from each leg?


That's not how current works.

If it's a 10A 240V appliance, it will draw 10A from both legs.


----------



## StormReady (Aug 21, 2021)

That makes sense, thanks.


----------



## StormReady (Aug 21, 2021)

So then the gen will always be perfectly balanced if you're just using 240V?


----------



## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

StormReady said:


> So then the gen will always be perfectly balanced if you're just using 240V?


Yes, you need not worry about balance with 240V loads...just don't exceed the gen capacity.

You can have a mix of 240V & 120V loads. All 240V loads draw current across 4A *AND* 4B and are automatically in balance. But 120V loads will draw current from the leg (4A *OR* 4B) that they are connected on.


----------



## StormReady (Aug 21, 2021)

Other than the portable A/C unit, there isn't much 120V devices I use so I believe I'll try keeping the switch on the 120V/240V and monitor the wattage gauges. Thanks for everything.


----------



## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

StormReady said:


> The soft start sounds like a good idea but I wouldn't know where to start except to contact well company. There is a control box for the well to assist in starting so maybe it already has one. I can call the well company and find out.
> But it appears my best solution is to use the 120V/240V mode to obtain max power from the gen without getting involved with doing mods i.e. 50A outlet. So my confusion or lack of knowledge at this point is load balancing. Since I would only be using one receptacle, #4, there is no need to balance across the receptacles but circuits. My only question then is how precise must load balancing be without doing harm to the gen. I would think that Honda would provide an idea percentage wise or wattage, like be within 15% of each circuit or 400 watts as I don't believe one can have the load perfectly balanced. I've read a couple of years ago that if the load is too unbalanced, the gen would start shaking. Others have said they never experienced indications of an imbalanced load. So I don't know what to think.


the closer the better on the L1 and L2 current draw...


----------



## StormReady (Aug 21, 2021)

Hello Iowagold,
I did increase the wire size from 10ga to 8ga since the power inlet box is about 20' from the panel, plus I have to use an extension cord from gen to power inlet box. Tried going to your site but could not get in with my password and could not reset.


----------



## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

storm check your pm


----------



## StormReady (Aug 21, 2021)

Don't see the PM link on this site.


----------



## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

StormReady said:


> Don't see the PM link on this site.


Click Account Details (your avatar at the upper right hand corner) then select Conversations.


----------

