# Predator 9500 w/ Micro-Air soft start on 5-Ton A/C help needed



## WinHilo (7 mo ago)

I just pulled the trigger on all the parts needed to set up my residence to run on generator power just in case we get rolling blackouts this summer. I'm in Phoenix and currently, it is 111 degrees out. We lost our A/C a few years ago (on a Friday night, Memorial Day weekend, when all the supply stores were closed for three days) due to a bad capacitor, and I don't want to be without A/C again.

I'm looking at the Harbor Freight Predator 9500 and converting it to run on natural gas via the Nash Fuel conversion kit. My primary needs are to run my Night & Day 5 ton A/C, the refrigerator in the kitchen, modem/router, a computer and a few lights.

I'm a little confused on how to hook up the Micro-Air to my A/C. There is a PC board inside and I am unable to see if there is a "comfort alert" control system. The directions state that if I do, then there will be a small blue box marked "Emerson" on it, AND two wires on the herm capacitor terminal. I don't have the "Emerson" box, but I do have two blue wires on the herm group. One goes to the compressor, the other goes to the PC board.

Another issue that I learned from lurking in these forums, is something about TXV. Not sure what that is, but it seems like the Micro-Air won't make that much of a difference if I have that.

Any help would be much appreciated.


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## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

WinHilo said:


> I'm looking at the Harbor Freight Predator 9500 and converting it to run on natural gas via the Nash Fuel conversion kit. My primary needs are to run my Night & Day 5 ton A/C, the refrigerator in the kitchen, modem/router, a computer and a few lights.


You will need a pair of Predator 9500s to run all of that. And on NG, two may not make it.

One gen will output 7600 watts max on gasoline. On NG, the max may be up to 10-20% less. And, you wouldn't want to run them at max output anyway.

Just your 5-ton A/C condenser by itself is about 7600 watts, plus you will need to run the blower in the evaporator.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

you might want a back up portable unit.
menards has an inverter unit for 650.00 and 579.00 after the 11% rebate,

*https://www.menards.com/main/heatin...103338431.htm?tid=2885109886784105509&ipos=12*


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## LaSwamp (Mar 16, 2021)

Yeah, you're going to need a lot more muscle than that. You're going to get a lot more bang for the buck if you use window units rather than trying to cool the entire house on a portable inverter.


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## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

iowagold said:


> menards has an inverter unit for 650.00 and 579.00 after the 11% rebate,


Yes, the Midea units are nice. I have an 8,000 Midea U-Shaped inverter window unit as a backup to my central air.

Those double-hose portables are great if you need to move it around. They also make 8,000 and 12,000 BTU portables.








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## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

To answer the OP's question, the wiring should be very similar to this:


http://www.micro-air.com/support-documents/misc/current/comfort_maker_easystart_wiring_diagram.pdf


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## Browse Deweb (Jan 16, 2021)

I agree with the others here. You want to parallel two Predators for a 5 ton AC. I have a 4 ton with a soft start and TXV and my inrush is still 53A. I decided to go with a portable inverter AC for outages, plus my mini-split inverter in the basement. My EU7000is runs on natural gas and you do lose some power from that conversion.


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## WinHilo (7 mo ago)

GenKnot said:


> You will need a pair of Predator 9500s to run all of that. And on NG, two may not make it.
> 
> One gen will output 7600 watts max on gasoline. On NG, the max may be up to 10-20% less. And, you wouldn't want to run them at max output anyway.
> 
> Just your 5-ton A/C condenser by itself is about 7600 watts, plus you will need to run the blower in the evaporator.


GenKnot - Thank you for your reply. I had a feeling that I was over the wattage for my A/C on only just one Predator 9500, but not knowing for sure if the soft starter would make a difference, and get me back in the game. It sounds like a few of you that have experience with this are pointing me in two directions: spend less and get a smaller, portable generator and a portable A/C for just the bedroom. I like that idea, since it would be better on my wallet AND I would have somthing that I could put out in the garage when I want to work out there, but I am still scratching my head on how to run the kitchen refrigerator without the hassle of pulling it out, unplugging it from the wall and plugging it back into an extension cord (it is a built in, counter depth unit).

The second direction would be to spend another $3k for a second Predator 9500 and all the parts needed for the parallel kit, natural gas conversion, etc. That would be just under $6k total. I might as well get a Generac 15k unit for less $$ and it comes in its own enclosure.

If any thing, at least the Micro-Air soft starter will (should) save my compressor in the long run, and possibly reduce my electric bill.

Thank you for the wiring diagram. Do you know what the "VS" is on the main logic board where the blue wire is connected that you have an "X" on? Is that a built in "comfort alert" of some type?


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## WinHilo (7 mo ago)

Browse Deweb said:


> I agree with the others here. You want to parallel two Predators for a 5 ton AC. I have a 4 ton with a soft start and TXV and my inrush is still 53A. I decided to go with a portable inverter AC for outages, plus my mini-split inverter in the basement. My EU7000is runs on natural gas and you do lose some power from that conversion.
> View attachment 12053


Browse DeWeb: What was your LRA before the soft start?


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## Browse Deweb (Jan 16, 2021)

WinHilo said:


> Browse DeWeb: What was your LRA before the soft start?


I was measuring about 110 LRA prior to the soft start.


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## Browse Deweb (Jan 16, 2021)

WinHilo said:


> GenKnot - Thank you for your reply. I had a feeling that I was over the wattage for my A/C on only just one Predator 9500, but not knowing for sure if the soft starter would make a difference, and get me back in the game. It sounds like a few of you that have experience with this are pointing me in two directions: spend less and get a smaller, portable generator and a portable A/C for just the bedroom. I like that idea, since it would be better on my wallet AND I would have somthing that I could put out in the garage when I want to work out there, but I am still scratching my head on how to run the kitchen refrigerator without the hassle of pulling it out, unplugging it from the wall and plugging it back into an extension cord (it is a built in, counter depth unit).
> 
> The second direction would be to spend another $3k for a second Predator 9500 and all the parts needed for the parallel kit, natural gas conversion, etc. That would be just under $6k total. I might as well get a Generac 15k unit for less $$ and it comes in its own enclosure.
> 
> ...


The predator will run most of your house except for the 5 ton HVAC. Just turn that breaker off...no need to run wires if you can connect the generator to your load center using a standard interlock kit, breaker and power inlet box.


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## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

WinHilo said:


> I am still scratching my head on how to run the kitchen refrigerator without the hassle of pulling it out, unplugging it from the wall and plugging it back into an extension cord (it is a built in, counter depth unit).


I have the same issue since I run exclusively off of extension cords to my gen. I am not connected to my electrical panel. We are gas-electric, so we only have a few loads that are necessary during an outage (fridge, freezer, furnace, window A/C, a few lights, etc.). We have a 5KW WEN GN625i.

I am going to put our fridge on a short extension cord behind the unit so that I can grab it, unplug the fridge, and then connect to an extension cord from the gen. Otherwise I would have to raise the leveling legs and then pull the fridge out to get to the wall plug every time...a real pain.



WinHilo said:


> Do you know what the "VS" is on the main logic board


That probably stands for Voltage Start or Voltage Sense...I'm not sure.

Regarding the Comfort Alert, this is a description of the black device shown in the video below. I do not see one in your photos.
"Comfort Alert provides around-the-clock monitoring for common electrical problems, compressor defects and broad system faults. If a glitch is detected, an LED indicator flashes the proper alert codes to help you quickly pinpoint the problem."


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

yea small room aircon units work well for when on gen set.
i think the port role around would be handy and then have several exhaust ports built in to each room you plan to use them in.
i think i will use dwv thru wall connections with louver's and screens for each room i plan to use it in.

make sure to test the run current.

i think i will go the 14k btu inverter...
i still need to look at the power requirement...

also take a look at the mini split units with multi zone!

and yes they have mini splits that are 120 vac perfect for basement or small rooms.


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## macdenewf (Sep 3, 2021)

Pulsar sells a 12kw dual fuel that’s an easy conversion to nat gas. Non inverter though. I’ve helped about 8’or 9 friends install them in Houston and while they all had good success with a central AC I don’t think we tried them on anything more than a 4 ton. I can tell you that I have a 13kw North Star that can take both my 3 and 4 ton ACs….not exactly at the same time but if I start my large one 1st it handles starting up the 3 ton easily while the 4 ton is running. I suspect it would take the 5 ton The difference in just a couple thousand watts makes a big difference from my north star vs the pulsar. If you’re not totally convinced you need an inverter have a look at the Westinghouse 15 k. Wgen12000df. It’s 15k starting,12k running. It’s dual fuel to start so the Nash conversion to nat gas is also easy. I suspect that would handle your 5 ton pretty easy and they quite that it’s less than 5% THD so shouldn’t pose a problem with running any sensitive electronics. Yes it will be de rated on nat gas but based on my personal
Experience with a 13kw I think it’s a safe bet. No doubt it would be louder than an inverter but for 2800 would be a single solution unit vs 2 inverters in parallel. Cheers. Mac.


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## Medu (18 d ago)

WinHilo: Short version: Call Micro-Air and explain your problem, you most likely will be able to run your 5 ton A/C with just one 9500 inverter predator (but you will need the micro-air 368). I HAVE RUN MY 5 TON AC WITH THE AFOREMENTIONED STEUP WITH NO ISSUES.

Long Version: I have a Predator 9500 and I have run my 5 ton A/C (with Micro-Air soft start, the big one 368); the Predator I already had it, but the micro-air, I emailed micro-air customer service before buying it and the cust. serv. department -very fast response, by the way- told me that I could run my 5 ton A/C with the 368 micro-air and with just one Predator inverter 9500; I am not very technical but the guy said the micro-air device not just learns you’re A/C the first 5 times you star it but it also kind of "knows" when you are in generator mode and makes it easier for the A/C to start because the available amperage is limited... the micro-air somehow makes the compresor start ramp with less slope when feed by a generator... ONLY DIFFERENCE: I installed the micro-air myself but I have no “comfort PCB” as in your picture.

Before the micro-air my A/C was pulling about 130 amps on start, once the micro-air was installed it started with about 50 to 56 amps from the grid but the customer service told me: “TRY IT WITH THE PREDATOR 9500 INVERTER GENERATOR, IT WILL STILL START… YOU WILL SEE” and, guess what: I DID!!! Running on gasoline it started the 5 ton AC without issues.

I converted my predator to LP gas, so, when running with propane, it was not able to start the A/C (I suppose because the output power is less), so I called micro-air again and they told me “with propane it might not start the first time and the generator breaker most likely will trip, but after resetting the generator breaker, try it again and now it should start”… AND IT DID!!!

The customer service guy said something that the micro-air device somehow “knows” or “learns” the limiting current (it is about 37 amps for the 9500 inverter predator running on propane) and adapts itself to it, I guess that is why the second time it started with no problems…

DISCLAIMER: Except for only about 400 watts of vampire loads, I had no other loads connected to the generator during all my A/C trials; my wiring set up is via an interlocked inlet switch to the electrical panel.



I am no expert, but I am telling the truth.


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