# WGen 7500 Generator Idling up and Down w/ no load - New Owner Needs Help



## tcd2004 (Dec 15, 2021)

Hi Everyone- First time posting here and I am hoping you all are able to provide some input on a problem I am having. I recently picked up a Westinghouse WGen 7500 from auction, with 2 hours on it, and I am having an issue with how it runs at idle. The first time I fired it up, it ran very smooth at an even RPM. I haven't made any adjustments, however now it is constantly idling up and down without ever leveling off. There is no load on the generator and I have ran it for 15 minutes + with no change. The gas tank was empty when I picked it up, however I am unsure if gas was sitting in it prior. I filled it with fresh gas, and also tried adding STA-BIL fast fix small engine treatment with no change. I have also tried manually adjusting the auto-choke, and that did seem to get the RPMs to steady a bit. The last thing I tried was adjusting the idle stop screw on the carburetor, if I turned the screw all the way in, the RPMs would mostly level off, but it still didn't seem to be running as it should and I am assuming this would not be the fix for it. 

I am including the video to help troubleshoot the problem. I don't have much experience in working on small engines, however am pretty handy if there are suggestions on a fix.

Video: WGen 7500 Idling Issue

Thank you in advance for the help!


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## Dutchy491 (Sep 18, 2019)

Try to return the idle screw back to its original setting. Then Run it with a good load on it, give it a good workout, and let us know how it goes after running a tank through it. Should change the oil afterwards too. However, the carburetor is probably gunked up and needs a cleaning if it doesn’t run better after the workout.


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## tcd2004 (Dec 15, 2021)

Dutchy491 said:


> Try to return the idle screw back to its original setting. Then Run it with a good load on it, give it a good workout, and let us know how it goes after running a tank through it. Should change the oil afterwards too. However, the carburetor is probably gunked up and needs a cleaning if it doesn’t run better after the workout.


Thank you for the input, I appreciate it. I acted a bit hastily in adjusting the idle screw and didn't keep track of how many turns until bottomed out. May be a silly question, but is there a standard amount of turns to back it out on these? 

I have a couple refrigerators I can hookup, and I'll see what else I can find to put load on it. My main refrigerator kept tripping the GFCI on the generator when I hooked it up the day I got it, but I just came across an article on Westinghouse's website yesterday that says I need to float the neutral if this is occurring, so I will need to do that prior as well.


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## 50ShadesOfDirt (Oct 23, 2021)

Because it was an auction item (who knows what its history is), I would assume the worst. It's been filled up with oil, gas, and probably tipped over to boot.

I would research and read up on what all can happen if genny was tipped over, and clear all those items (could mean pulling/cleaning the carb). Drain all oil and gas and start over on these, and check for signs of trouble (oil in air filter or other unlikely places). Replace spark plug, and check for other items per its maintenance schedule.

Find the specs, and ensure everything is back at specs, including the idle control, now that it has been adjusted. This is a good research exercise anyway, as you want all the pdf's for maintenance and such. Sometimes specs are found at a parts place, not necessarily from westinghouse, so look everywhere.

After all of the above, and if still grief from gasoline operations, perhaps running it on propane would be an alternative test (possibly rules out gasoline issues).

Hope this helps ...


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## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

The engine sounds good so no issues with spark, timing, or compression. You're now left with fuel delivery issues. This can extend to the governor linkage, which controls the throttle.

From what I can tell based on the model, it has no Eco mode and it does not idle. It should run continuously at 3600 RPM, nominal. In that regard, the idle screw doesn't serve a purpose other than to hold the pilot jet in place. However, if screwed in too much, it can interfere with the throttle. If it was screwed in at one point, you should unscrew it until it's no longer interfering with the throttle action from the governor. Again, this generator will NOT idle and there's no mechanism for it to idle.

Assuming for now that the governor linkage is still within factory spec, I'd take the carb off, unhook the governor rod and spring, open up the bowl and do an ocular inspection. If you see corrosion or any gunk in it, try to clean them off with carb cleaner. If you have the proper tools, you can also unscrew the main jet and the emulsifier tube for inspection and cleaning. While you're at it, remove the idle screw and using a flat screwdriver, carefully pry off the plastic cap that holds the pilot jet. Spray every orifice with carb cleaner and put everything back together then try again.


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## tcd2004 (Dec 15, 2021)

OrlyP said:


> The engine sounds good so no issues with spark, timing, or compression. You're now left with fuel delivery issues. This can extend to the governor linkage.
> 
> From what I can tell based on the model, it has no Eco mode and it should not idle. It should run continuously at 3600 RPM. In that regard, the idle screw doesn't serve a purpose (other than to hold the pilot jet in place).
> 
> Assuming for now that the governor linkage is still within factory spec, I'd take the carb off, open up the bowl and do an ocular inspection. If you see corrosion or any gunk in it, try to clean them off with carb cleaner. If you have the proper tools, you can also unscrew the main jet and the emulsifier tube for inspection and cleaning. While you're at it, remove the idle screw and using a flat screwdriver, carefully pry off the plastic cap that holds the pilot jet.


This was helpful information, thank you. No eco mode on this one, so that makes sense what you said about the idle screw. What is the linkage that is moving back and fourth seemingly in tandem with the changing of RPMs up and down? If I set the idle screw all the way in, it limits the amount that linkage can travel back, which tends to hold the generator at more of a steady RPM. I’m assuming this is not a fix, but asking more out of curiosity. I’m assuming that linkage should hold fairly steady once the RPMs level off. I should also mention if I manually turn on the choke partly, the RPMs seem to level off.


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## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

tcd2004 said:


> This was helpful information, thank you. No eco mode on this one, so that makes sense what you said about the idle screw. What is the linkage that is moving back and fourth seemingly in tandem with the changing of RPMs up and down? If I set the idle screw all the way in, it limits the amount that linkage can travel back, which tends to hold the generator at more of a steady RPM. I’m assuming this is not a fix, but asking more out of curiosity. I’m assuming that linkage should hold fairly steady once the RPMs level off.


That's the governor rod and spring. It serves to regulate the engine speed so it stays relatively the same (at around 3600 RPM) with or without a load.

What it's doing right now is surging. The engine seems to slow down, probably due to lack of fuel, so the governor pulls on the throttle quickly to keep it from stalling. But then, it overcorrects and releases the throttle to prevent it from over-revving.... and the cycle continues.

It doesn't look like there's anything out of place with the governor linkages. Frankly, it's impossible to know for sure from where I sit. For now, the low hanging fruit to me is that there's probably dirt or even water in the carb. I'd start there.

The fact that the engine RPM tends to even out when you apply a little choke suggests that it's not getting enough gas. So a plugged jet or jets may be the culprit.

There are plenty of YouTube videos on how to disassemble and clean a Honda carb (clone or otherwise). But to give you an idea....










To get to the Pilot Jet, remove the idle screw, pull out the cap straight up and then use a flat screwdriver to pry out the jet..... carefully. It's made of plastic but the actual jet orifice is made of brass.

To remove the bowl, remove the two Philips (or JIS) screws to remove the solenoid. You'll then see a nut where the solenoid used to sit, remove it. The bowl should fall right out and give you access to the main jet.


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## exmar (Jun 29, 2015)

Dutchy491 said:


> Try to return the idle screw back to its original setting. Then Run it with a good load on it, give it a good workout, and let us know how it goes after running a tank through it. Should change the oil afterwards too. However, the carburetor is probably gunked up and needs a cleaning if it doesn’t run better after the workout.


And add a generous shot of SeaFoam when you run a tank of gas which will help clean out fuel circuits. 

Sea Foam Motor Treatment | Oil & Fuel Additive | For Gas & Diesel


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## cosmic (Jul 1, 2021)

Put a small load on the machine.
I have a small fixed carb gen that doesn't run right at startup. Adding a few lights and a fan set it right. It's too rich without a load and I can't adjust the carb.
Then dig into the other fixes above.


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## tcd2004 (Dec 15, 2021)

Thank you everyone for the suggestions thus far. I am should be able to put some of these to the test this afternoon and will report back with how it's running.


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## tcd2004 (Dec 15, 2021)

I just ran it for over an hour with a refrigerator, fan, and battery charger plugged in to it. No change in the engine surging. I also added sea foam at the start of the run. 

I pulled the air cleaner after the run and it does appear that it is getting excess oil in there. My next step was going to be pulling the carb and trying my hand at cleaning it, but I wanted to see why there is oil entering the air cleaner. Is this part of the same problem or something else I should be concerned with? Thanks again!


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

is this a foam air filter?


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## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

tcd2004 said:


> I just ran it for over an hour with a refrigerator, fan, and battery charger plugged in to it. No change in the engine surging. I also added sea foam at the start of the run.
> 
> I pulled the air cleaner after the run and it does appear that it is getting excess oil in there. My next step was going to be pulling the carb and trying my hand at cleaning it, but I wanted to see why there is oil entering the air cleaner. Is this part of the same problem or something else I should be concerned with? Thanks again!


Did the surging stop with the air filter off?

The oil is probably from the foam filter leaching out. It’s meant to make the foam more tacky and make dust and particulates stick to it. Not best practice to use motor oil because as you’ve noticed, it gets messy. Best to use “foam filter oil” as they are purpose-built for the job.


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## cosmic (Jul 1, 2021)

Tap the carb float bowl lightly with a screwdriver handle a few times, might losen a stuck float. 
The oil in the filter and the surging sound like it was on its side for awhile, had that happen before.

If not, clean the carb.


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## tcd2004 (Dec 15, 2021)

Well here is the latest update and a list of what I’ve done.


took carb apart and cleaned. The carb honestly looked pretty spotless inside. I did notice that the two nuts holding the carb to the engine weren’t tightened as tight as they should have been.
drained the gas, even though it was fairly new
changed the oil

When I added new gas and fired it up, it was running at a steady RPM for a few minutes, and then it started to lightly surge again. This has happened on two different starts, with and without the air filter installed. The only load I had on it was a refrigerator. It does seem to be surging less, but still not a steady idle, however it seems to power everything fine. If I manually turn the choke on just a tad, it level out. I didn’t have the jet cleaning brushes in time, so I didn’t manually clean each jet, but I could see light through everything I held up and I did spray the parts that I could with Carb cleaner. 

Everything seems to be in order on this thing, is it possible it just hasn’t been broken in or put through it’s paces enough? I paid $360 for it, so I’m trying to do what I can to make sure it’s worth keeping and shouldn’t be returned to auction. The goal is to have a transfer switch installed so I can back feed my house, so I just want to make sure I’m in good shape with it. Thanks again for everyone’s input, it has been immensely helpful!


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## Dutchy491 (Sep 18, 2019)

Yep, still suspect some gunk in the carb. Levelling out using some choke is a key indicator. However it’s running better and with a good additive in the fuel it may resolve itself after a tank or two of hard work. Put a heater or two on it to get it close to max output. Just a fridge isn’t enough in my opinion. It’s capable of 7500 so 1500 or so isn’t much of a workout. Change the oil afterwards. Good news that it’s somewhat better….


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## McCorby (Apr 26, 2021)

tcd2004 said:


> When I added new gas and fired it up, it was running at a steady RPM for a few minutes, and then it started to lightly surge again. This has happened on two different starts, with and without the air filter installed.


Have tried running with the fuel cap off or loose? This behavior can happen if the fuel tank vent is plugged.


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## tcd2004 (Dec 15, 2021)

McCorby said:


> Have tried running with the fuel cap off or loose? This behavior can happen if the fuel tank vent is plugged.


Thanks for the suggestion. I did try this after your post and it did not have an effect on the engine surging.


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## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

It's definitely not getting enough fuel. Unless it came out the factory in that state (which could be the reason it was got rid of by the first owner) or the carb cleaner missed something.

If it's the former, the jetting(s) may be too small for this motor size.


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## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

@tcd2004 I am running my Champion 3000W genny on natural gas and I can make it run EXACTLY like your video shows by (mis)-adjusting the NG flow to starve the engine. So, I agree with the others diagnosing a fuel issue.
It is possible that the main jet may have been changed out by previous owner. It may need the correct main jet for your altitude installed if you can't find any other reason for the carb to act this way.


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## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

I just looked on Amazon and found what I think is the correct replacement carb for $19. Check to make sure it is a match for yours.








Amazon.com: 139 16100-ZE2-734 Carburetor for DEK 6500 6500EL 7550EL 6500 7550 Watts 401cc Powerlift GG5500 GG7000 GG7000C PowerTrain PTG4500XCS PT900G Honda EB3500X EM3500SX DeWALT DG4300 Generator : Patio, Lawn & Garden


Buy 139 16100-ZE2-734 Carburetor for DEK 6500 6500EL 7550EL 6500 7550 Watts 401cc Powerlift GG5500 GG7000 GG7000C PowerTrain PTG4500XCS PT900G Honda EB3500X EM3500SX DeWALT DG4300 Generator: Generators - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



www.amazon.com




While you are at it, you could install a tri-fuel carb for not much more.


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## tcd2004 (Dec 15, 2021)

GenKnot said:


> I just looked on Amazon and found what I think is the correct replacement carb for $19. Check to make sure it is a match for yours.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Oh wow, I didn't know they were that inexpensive. Everything looks like it would bolt right up, aside from the auto-choke. Is that something I would have to adapt to try and work if I were to replace the carb? Here are a couple pictures of the current setup.


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## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

If the auto-choke cannot transfer to the new carb, then you could go with a manual choke setup. The auto-choke is handy if doing remote starting, but other than that I don't think it buys you much.

If you decide to go with manual choke and not take the chance that you cannot transfer the auto-choke, then you might look at something like this WGen7500 Generator 7500 9000 Watts carburetor carb for Honda GX390 13HP Engine | eBay as it comes with the manual choke lever. Measure your existing carb mounting bolt spacing to verify this is correct carb. These engines are Honda knockoffs and most parts are readily available. A lot of people call them Chonda.

Maybe someone on the forum has successfully transferred the auto-choke and will respond here.


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## tcd2004 (Dec 15, 2021)

I ended finding the carburetor assembly direct through the Westinghouse parts website for $30, so I decided to spend a little more and order a direct replacement to be on the safe side. There is a good chance I could get the current one fully cleaned out, but it seems like a small investment to eliminate the variables start with a new one. I will report back once it's installed and fired up. Thanks!


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## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

tcd2004 said:


> I ended finding the carburetor assembly direct through the Westinghouse parts website for $30


Fantastic!


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## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

I know that the horse is out of the barn in that, you've already ordered a new carb, but I would've tried increasing the size of the main jet..... ever so slightly.... and see if that cures the problem without spending $30.


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

tcd2004 said:


> I ended finding the carburetor assembly direct through the Westinghouse parts website for $30, so I decided to spend a little more and order a direct replacement to be on the safe side. There is a good chance I could get the current one fully cleaned out, but it seems like a small investment to eliminate the variables start with a new one. I will report back once it's installed and fired up. Thanks!


The usual culprit for the running condition you are having is the pilot jet and it’s circuit. I skimmed through the posts so I’m not entirely Certain if you cleaned the plastic jet under the plastic idle screw. Also with the pilot jet installed you need to spray carb cleaner directly into the inlet passage at the face of the carb. You should see carb cleaner spray out a small passage at the throttle plate with a small piece of brass protruding. This is the pilot screw.


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## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

For future reference, if that's a Honda GX390 clone, its model number is 188F. That should help you find parts for it online.

Check the engine number stamped on the block.


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## tcd2004 (Dec 15, 2021)

Thank you for that. I’m am definitely still willing to get the current carb functioning properly, and just having a backup. If I were to try enlarging the main brass jet, how would you recommend doing so?

In regard to the pilot jet, I did take that out and cleaned it really well. For the carb cleaner, am I supposed to do this running or off? I did remove the air filter and sprayed carb cleaner into the carb inlet while it was running, in quick bursts. This is how the can instructions said to do it. It caused the engine to bog pretty hard, so I sprayed until just before it stalled out and then stopped. Should I be doing this a different way? Thanks for the info on the Honda part number, I thought I gathered it was a clone from this post, but I wasn’t sure what the actual model number was.


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## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

tcd2004 said:


> Thank you for that. I’m am definitely still willing to get the current carb functioning properly, and just having a backup. If I were to try enlarging the main brass jet, how would you recommend doing so?


Many mechanics use micro drill bits. https://www.amazon.com/Gyros-45-220...47902&sprefix=micro+drill+bits,aps,311&sr=8-5

Find the biggest-sized bit that would easily fit the main jet and use the next bigger bit to enlarge the orifice. Do not use an electric drill.... just use your hands to gently increase the jet size. Once the bit can go through, you've increased it to that size. Don't overdo it as this is irreversible. Though, you can always buy new jets as they're cheap.



> In regard to the pilot jet, I did take that out and cleaned it really well. For the carb cleaner, am I supposed to do this running or off?


When you removed the pilot jet, did you also spray carb cleaner into the empty hole under the idle screw? You should do this with the engine off.



> I did remove the air filter and sprayed carb cleaner into the carb inlet while it was running, in quick bursts. This is how the can instructions said to do it. It caused the engine to bog pretty hard, so I sprayed until just before it stalled out and then stopped. Should I be doing this a different way? Thanks for the info on the Honda part number, I thought I gathered it was a clone from this post, but I wasn’t sure what the actual model number was.


Spraying carb cleaner into the venturi does very little, to be honest. The carb cleaner just goes straight into the combustion chamber and burn off. It might clean the tip of the emulsion tube but that's about it. If the dirt is lodged in any of the orifices on the carb, the cleaner won't be able to reach them by doing that.


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## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

tcd2004 said:


> I’m am definitely still willing to get the current carb functioning properly, and just having a backup.


It's definitely not a bad idea to have a spare carb on hand. I have 2 spare gasoline carbs now that I have converted to natural gas...my original and a spare that I had ordered still in the box.


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## zz28zz (Nov 24, 2021)

The idle circuit passages are tiny on these small eng carbs and can be tough to get them clean. I usually alternate between B-12 (with the small red tube attached) and compressed air. If that doesn't do it, then start poking the passages with fine stiff wire. Got an old steel brush that I occasionally will pluck a single wire from (with vise grips) to poke into the tiny passages/holes. If that doesn't work then strip everything that's not metal off and soak over-night in Chem Dip. If that doesn't work, throw it in the toolbox (in case you need a part from it later) and get a new carb.

FYI, a small vacuum leak will cause the same symptoms as a plugged-up idle circuit (surging, runs smoother with some choke when warm, etc). A spray bottle with water shot at carb/intake gasket area will tell you if its leaking there. Carb cleaner works too but it's flammable so be careful doing that.

As a side note, do these various plastic carb bits hold up to B-12 or similar carb cleaners? Never dealt with those.


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## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

zz28zz said:


> As a side note, do these various plastic carb bits hold up to B-12 or similar carb cleaners? Never dealt with those.


I would say no, but then I don't try to clean a carb with plastic still on/in it. My motorcycle got really screwed up by the dealership. It took them weeks to find out what was wrong. It turned out to be a small plastic part inside each of the 4 carbs that got dissolved when they cleaned them.


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## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

If you can't remove the plastic parts, you can mask them off or just don't spray directly on them. If this is still not possible, you can substitute carb cleaner with engine degreaser spray that's safe on plastic and rubber parts.

I used non-chlorinated brake cleaner to clean my spare carb before storage because that's what I had at the time.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

yup
carbs are cheap these days...
unless it is a rare carb hard to find or super pricey.

just buy and replace a rough running engines carb first...
10-30 bucks well spent!
yea i keep one per gen i own as spares on hand at a min....
you always find a bad carb in the middle of the night or when you cannot get them fast.

spare parts are part of a good gen plan.


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

tcd2004 said:


> Thank you for that. I’m am definitely still willing to get the current carb functioning properly, and just having a backup. If I were to try enlarging the main brass jet, how would you recommend doing so?
> 
> In regard to the pilot jet, I did take that out and cleaned it really well. For the carb cleaner, am I supposed to do this running or off? I did remove the air filter and sprayed carb cleaner into the carb inlet while it was running, in quick bursts. This is how the can instructions said to do it. It caused the engine to bog pretty hard, so I sprayed until just before it stalled out and then stopped. Should I be doing this a different way? Thanks for the info on the Honda part number, I thought I gathered it was a clone from this post, but I wasn’t sure what the actual model number was.


Sounds like you have not cleaned the entire passage. Using the red straw attachment on the carb cleaner spray through the inlet so it passes through the circuit and out the outlet.


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## tcd2004 (Dec 15, 2021)

drmerdp said:


> Sounds like you have not cleaned the entire passage. Using the red straw attachment on the carb cleaner spray through the inlet so it passes through the circuit and out the outlet.


I did not do that, but I will now! Thank you greatly for the pictures, as I was unaware where the inlet and outlet were located. I'd never taken a carb apart prior to my initial post, so these replies have taught me a lot. Thanks again everyone.


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## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

@tcd2004 Maybe this will help out...
Complete [Photo & Video] Guide to Generator Carb Cleaning – Home Battery Bank


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## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)




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## tcd2004 (Dec 15, 2021)

Well, here are the results after a second, much more thorough carb clean. I used carb cleaner, as well as small brushes I purchased from Amazon that are meant for cleaning air brush tools. It’s a marked improvement from the first video, but it does seem to have just a tiny bit of surge at some times. No where near the consistent level it used to be. As always, open to any feedback or suggestions! Updated Generator Video


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## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

Does it smooth out under light load like maybe a 100 watt light bulb? If so, then that's probably normal for that genset.


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## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

tcd2004 said:


> Well, here are the results after a second, much more thorough carb clean. I used carb cleaner, as well as small brushes I purchased from Amazon that are meant for cleaning air brush tools. It’s a marked improvement from the first video, but it does seem to have just a tiny bit of surge at some times. No where near the consistent level it used to be. As always, open to any feedback or suggestions! Updated Generator Video


That's a remarkable improvement. You're on to something. I suggest that you clean it one more time and see if you can totally eliminate the hunting/surging.

An ultrasonic bath would be ideal but, try your luck again with the bristles before spraying each and every hole with carb cleaner. This time, when you spray into an orifice, observe where it's going and verify that all holes out that way are clear... particularly the transition circuit holes besides the throttle butterfly.


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## ajnuzzi (12 mo ago)

I had a similar issue, I pulled the carb off and accidentally put the wrong gasket on. It covered up a little hole and caused it to do the exact same thing. Probably not your issue but if you have no other things to check it would be worth a shot


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## tcd2004 (Dec 15, 2021)

Thanks for the tip, I will check that out as well.
I have been meaning to provide an update. I installed a brand new carb, directly from Westinghouse, and am still experiencing some of the surging. With that being said, I recently had an interlock kit installed so I can back feed my entire panel, and the generator powered my entire house flawlessly. Every single breaker was on and the generator didn’t skip a beat for roughly the half hour I had it running. Similar to the original carb, if I adjust the choke manually a touch, it smooths out. With this new information, any ideas on what could be causing the surge at idle? I’m using brand new gas, and I also took the fuel petcock off to clean it. I feel better knowing it will power my home no problem, but still open to trying to fully smooth out this idle. Thanks!


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

If a brand new replacement carb resulted in the same condition and choke smooths the engine… it’s under jetted unless there is a vacuum leak somewhere. Increasing the main jet size might be worth the experiment. Though you’d also end up with higher fuel consumption it’s worth having a properly running engine that will maintain ~60hz (3600rpm) without wavering.


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## tcd2004 (Dec 15, 2021)

drmerdp said:


> If a brand new replacement carb resulted in the same condition and choke smooths the engine… it’s under jetted unless there is a vacuum leak somewhere. Increasing the main jet size might be worth the experiment. Though you’d also end up with higher fuel consumption it’s worth having a properly running engine that will maintain ~60hz (3600rpm) without wavering.


I will definitely be looking into it further. I believe the display on the front will display the hz, so it’s helpful knowing what it should be at.

Are you able to assist with telling me what the larger diameter hose is for in this picture? It just seems to be loosely inserted into each of the holes it’s placed in. One end goes into the air box, I’m not sure what the other part is called that the other end is in. Where would I go about looking for vacuum leaks?


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## GenKnot (Dec 20, 2021)

That hose is the crankcase vent for emissions. Much like the PCV system in a car.


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