# Briggs 5500W abruptly stopped, now won't start



## gossamer (Aug 9, 2020)

Hi,
I have experience disassembling small engines and rebuilding them, but I'm not an expert. I believe what I have is either a stuck valve or carb inlet needle, but wanted some more expert advice before I proceed.

The power went out at my in-laws house so I let them use our 5500w generator. The engine has maybe 50 hours on it, despite it being close to 12 years old. It's been running normally for at least the last two days.

It abruptly stopped in the middle of the night. The engine spins freely (normally) when pulling the start cord, but appears to not fire (it doesn't even try to start, like the gas is shut off). It was extremely low on oil. I've since changed the oil altogether and it still doesn't start.

I've checked the spark plug by removing it, connecting it to the spark plug lead, touching it to the engine and giving a slow pull. I can see spark at the spark plug and feel it in my fingers, lol.

I've disconnected the gas line directly at the carb and gas flows freely from there.

I've made sure the power switch is on. No power cords are connected and I've tried the circuit breaker both on and off.

I've checked the air filter and it's nearly perfectly clean.

Is the carburetor the first place to start? Should I remove the bowl and check the needle? Will this mean having to replace gaskets/seals? If the carb is less than $50, I'd probably just prefer to replace it altogether than wasting time trying to fix the old one.

What is the proper part number for a replacement carb, given the info below?

Generator:
Model: 030430
Rev: 01
Gen ser: 1017430735
Engine fam: 9BSXS.3422HT 278707
Engine Ser: 090812YD47493
Displ: 342cc
Stamped on muffler: 189008

Engine:
Model: 216312
Type: 01 10B1
Code: 090812YD


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## aandpdan (Oct 8, 2012)

Does the engine feel like it has any compression? Extremely low on oil isn't a good sign.

You have spark so probably not a "low oil" sensor issue.

Try a few drops of gas or starting fluid to see if it actually fires before replacing the carb.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

use a spark tester to make sure the spark is HOT!
click here for the test tools including spark testers
use gasoline or lp to test start if it is fuel issue.
start fluid in these warmer temps is kinda hard on things.
gasoline in a mist bottle works well. huff it in.
some use an trigger oil can to shoot in a squirt to see if it will pop.

drop the bowl and see if you have flow of gas.

i would suspect the low oil sensor is not total off..
or is stuck.
unplug the low oil sensor in the side of the crank case.
for test only.
see if the spark is nice bright blue.
if the oil looked like heck use some engine flush first.
see if that free up the oil sensor float.


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## whimsey29 (Jul 9, 2016)

I have the the same model, it's the Storm Responder. Mine was made in 2010 and it does not have the low oil sensor that shuts off the engine if the oil gets too low. Which is fine by me since I check the oil frequently and it rarely uses any. I use synthetic 5W-30, I'm in NJ a temperate climate. I just got done running it 3 days for 8 hours a day and it ran like a champ.


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## gossamer (Aug 9, 2020)

aandpdan said:


> Does the engine feel like it has any compression? Extremely low on oil isn't a good sign.
> 
> You have spark so probably not a "low oil" sensor issue.
> 
> Try a few drops of gas or starting fluid to see if it actually fires before replacing the carb.


Actually, no, it doesn't feel like it has any compression. I did spray some starting fluid (forgot to mention initially), and it still did not felt like it fired.


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## gossamer (Aug 9, 2020)

iowagold said:


> use a spark tester to make sure the spark is HOT!
> click here for the test tools including spark testers
> use gasoline or lp to test start if it is fuel issue.
> start fluid in these warmer temps is kinda hard on things.
> ...


That sounds like a very reasonable explanation. The oil was a little gummy, but I'm pretty sure I got it all. I even blew into the oil fill hole. I'll check in the morning about temporarily disconnecting the oil sensor (if I can find it).

The manual doesn't explicitly say whether it does have an oil sensor, but it does say one of the reasons it won't start is low oil.

If the oil was so low as to cause damage, it would have seized, right?

I'll then find a way to get some gas into the spark plug hole.


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

A good spark tester is a must have, but if you got zapped and was able to see a visible spark while grounding the plug then it’s likely fuel or compression.

A no start with starting fluid eliminates fuel. A compression test sounds necessary. You should see >80 psi pull starting and higher with electric start. If you don’t have a compression tester pulling the valve cover and checking valve movement is a simple inspection to check off the list.


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## gossamer (Aug 9, 2020)

drmerdp said:


> A good spark tester is a must have, but if you got zapped and was able to see a visible spark while grounding the plug then it’s likely fuel or compression.
> 
> A no start with starting fluid eliminates fuel. A compression test sounds necessary. You should see >80 psi pull starting and higher with electric start. If you don’t have a compression tester pulling the valve cover and checking valve movement is a simple inspection to check off the list.


I do feel resistance when I pull, so I believe that means there's compression. It almost feels like starting an engine when the spark plug isn't firing (even though it is) or the switch is powered off.

I've also now checked, and it doesn't appear that it has an oil sensor. Can someone confirm?

Now what?


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## ToolLover (Jan 13, 2020)

You might go back to Iowagold's post.
Even though you might think you have a spark you may be fooled.
The spark should be white hot, not just a little faint spark.


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## madman75 (Jul 17, 2018)

You said once that it didn't have compression and then you stated it does have compression. It would be useful if you could tell us if it does have compression.
I would check the valve clearance. I found the manual online and it shows how to check the valve clearance.


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## gossamer (Aug 9, 2020)

madman75 said:


> You said once that it didn't have compression and then you stated it does have compression. It would be useful if you could tell us if it does have compression.
> I would check the valve clearance. I found the manual online and it shows how to check the valve clearance.


Do you have a link to the manual? 

I only have the generator manual, and have googled the engine model number without helpful results.

Regarding compression, I think I initially thought there was some amount of compression, but now I don't believe that's the case. There does not seem to be much resistance at all when cranking the engine over.

Of course I'd like to avoid buying a $75 compression tester, as I'd never really have another use for it.


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

Doesnt cost anything to pull the valve cover and check for proper valve movement and lash. 

How did the spark plug look. Burning clean? Any carbon fouling?


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## gossamer (Aug 9, 2020)

drmerdp said:


> Doesnt cost anything to pull the valve cover and check for proper valve movement and lash.
> 
> How did the spark plug look. Burning clean? Any carbon fouling?


Is that just the "OHV" cover? Will I need to replace gaskets afterwards?

The spark plug looked normal, although I'm going to try a new one tomorrow, just in case.


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## exmar (Jun 29, 2015)

Fast compression check is to remove plug, put thumb over hole and pull starting cord. If your thumb is alternately pushed away and then sucked in that gives you a rough idea the valves and piston are working. I'd squirt some carb cleaner down the carb throat, if it fires investigate fuel system issue. If it doesn't, investigate ignition.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

gossamer said:


> Hi,
> I have experience disassembling small engines and rebuilding them, but I'm not an expert. I believe what I have is either a stuck valve or carb inlet needle, but wanted some more expert advice before I proceed.
> 
> The power went out at my in-laws house so I let them use our 5500w generator. The engine has maybe 50 hours on it, despite it being close to 12 years old. It's been running normally for at least the last two days.
> ...


owners manual owners manual link
clean the exhaust screen.
also take pix of the sides of the engine.


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## gossamer (Aug 9, 2020)

iowagold said:


> owners manual owners manual link
> clean the exhaust screen.
> also take pix of the sides of the engine.


I thought you were referring to something in the manual specifically about adjusting the valves. I see now that's not the case.

Placing my thumb over the spark plug hole and pulling the pull-cord, I feel no pressure. It doesn't feel like there's any compression at all.


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## exmar (Jun 29, 2015)

OK, now you have something to work with. If you're not comfortable pulling the head, checking for stuck valves, etc. take it to a shop. Depending on "ouch" factor, it may be cheaper to replace the entire unit rather than labor and a new engine. I've noticed that asking the shop "How much will it cost me to find out how much it'll cost me?" Will avoid a large tear down charge and then finding out a new engine is cheaper, although there'll be labor to install it. I think I said that right?


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## gossamer (Aug 9, 2020)

exmar said:


> OK, now you have something to work with. If you're not comfortable pulling the head, checking for stuck valves, etc. take it to a shop. Depending on "ouch" factor, it may be cheaper to replace the entire unit rather than labor and a new engine. I've noticed that asking the shop "How much will it cost me to find out how much it'll cost me?" Will avoid a large tear down charge and then finding out a new engine is cheaper, although there'll be labor to install it. I think I said that right?


Is it possible that it's just adjusting the valves?

I think I can handle adjusting the valves. Is it also safe to say it's not too far gone if it still spins when pulling? It's not completely seized.


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## exmar (Jun 29, 2015)

Pull the valve covers, observe if the valves operate, and go from there.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

and wiggle the rockers to see if they have a bit of play.
valve setting should be .007 intake .011 exhaust in inches for an ok number.


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## tabora (Sep 6, 2018)

Willing to bet you'll find something broken when you remove the valve cover. Often not a big deal, those pieces are easy to replace...


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## madman75 (Jul 17, 2018)

link to the manual








BRIGGS & STRATTON 030430 PORTABLE GENERATOR SERVICE AND REPAIR MANUAL


View and Download Briggs & Stratton 030430 service and repair manual online. 5500 Watt Portable Generator. 030430 portable generator pdf manual download.




www.manualslib.com


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## madman75 (Jul 17, 2018)

another link





Results







www.briggsandstratton.com


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## gossamer (Aug 9, 2020)

tabora said:


> Willing to bet you'll find something broken when you remove the valve cover. Often not a big deal, those pieces are easy to replace...


I always recall reading horror stories about the pistons seizing in the cylinder, but that's not typically the case? The crankcase wasn't completely without oil, so perhaps that's the savior I need.

@madman75, thank you for the manual!


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

Low oil in a splash lubricated engine typically results in an Under lubricated top end. I wouldn’t be surprised if a rocker broke and/or a pushrod popped off. Pull the Cover.


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## gossamer (Aug 9, 2020)

iowagold said:


> and wiggle the rockers to see if they have a bit of play.
> valve setting should be .007 intake .011 exhaust in inches for an ok number.


The one on the right (intake?) wiggles a little bit. The one on the left does not. I can push both up and down relatively easily. I haven't tried to find TDC yet or made any adjustments.

Nothing appears broken. There was also at least a bit of oil present.


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

Rotate the engine and check that both rockers are moving.

Find TDC and make sure they both wiggle. If at TDC one or more rockers have zero lash that will cause Compression to leak.

You really need to have a compression tester and spark tester for your tool box. This won’t be the last time you’ll utilize these tools.


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## gossamer (Aug 9, 2020)

drmerdp said:


> Rotate the engine and check that both rockers are moving.
> 
> Find TDC and make sure they both wiggle. If at TDC one or more rockers have zero lash that will cause Compression to leak.
> 
> You really need to have a compression tester and spark tester for your tool box. This won’t be the last time you’ll utilize these tools.


I think I have a bigger problem, although I'm not sure.

Both valves appear to move freely and normally when pulling the starter pull-cord.

However, when inserting a screwdriver in the spark plug hole to feel the piston move, it doesn't appear the piston is moving. Is it possible for the piston to not move while pulling the pull-cord?

Perhaps that means something attached to the crankshaft is broken? Connecting rod? Other ideas?

This explains my confusion before with whether or not there is compression. It's very easy to turn the engine over, but there's no cylinder movement so no compression.


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## madman75 (Jul 17, 2018)

The piston should move when the pull cord is pulled. It's a good possibility the connecting rod is broke.May or may not be worth rebuilding just depends what is damaged.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

gossamer said:


> I think I have a bigger problem, although I'm not sure.
> 
> Both valves appear to move freely and normally when pulling the starter pull-cord.
> 
> ...


for test tools see the page below
click here for the generator test tools page with links
also if you do not want to buy the compression tester
oreilly auto parts has them on the renta tool plan.
you pay the cash up front and get it all back when you return the tool.
pretty cool!
sure beats asking your dad to borrow tools!! GRIN!!

it sounds like you have something let go in the engine...
if the piston is not moving then think
connecting rod or rod cap not connecting.
how far below the top of the cyl is the piston stuck?
if it is at 1/2 an inch or so..
i would think rod cap...
yea an engine tear down is in the future on this project if the piston is not moving...
it might be cheaper to replace the engine....
or if it is a low cost gen set replace the generator.
most real honda engines run 800.00 and up.
click here for honda engines at northern tool
and measure the shaft with a good set of digital calipers.
this one would be my choice for replacing that engine if the shaft is right.
click here for a gx390 honda engine
they are way better on the gallons per hour of fuel.
they also make an fuel injected version now for 2020!


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

gossamer said:


> I think I have a bigger problem, although I'm not sure.
> 
> Both valves appear to move freely and normally when pulling the starter pull-cord.
> 
> ...


 Oh Boy. Its totally possible that the low oil condition you described in the beginning caused the connecting rod to snap at the main and separate. 

Any precarious bulges or holes in the crankcase lol.


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## gossamer (Aug 9, 2020)

drmerdp said:


> Oh Boy. Its totally possible that the low oil condition you described in the beginning caused the connecting rod to snap at the main and separate.
> 
> Any precarious bulges or holes in the crankcase lol.


Yeah, I didn't see any obvious holes in the crankcase.

I'll call the local shop in the morning for an estimate (I don't have time/expertise to rebuild it myself), but should I start looking at replacement engines? Maybe the rebuilt version of the equivalent engine? Maybe an upgrade, or is it limited by the generator portion anyway?

It's about $750 with tax from HD and elsewhere. Is it worth putting $350 - 400 into it for a rebuilt engine + install?

btw, thanks for not laughing at my misfortune/stupidity


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

> btw, thanks for not laughing at my misfortune/stupidity


No worries man, stuff happens. 

In your position I would not spend the money on replacing the engine. The cost of repair will be 1/2 to 2/3 the cost of replacing the unit. And to be honest its advantageous to get a quality new one considering alternators these days have much lower THD and better voltage regulation.


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## gossamer (Aug 9, 2020)

drmerdp said:


> No worries man, stuff happens.
> 
> In your position I would not spend the money on replacing the engine. The cost of repair will be 1/2 to 2/3 the cost of replacing the unit. And to be honest its advantageous to get a quality new one considering alternators these days have much lower THD and better voltage regulation.


Is there a market for selling broken generators to be used for parts or the generator portion?


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## gossamer (Aug 9, 2020)

drmerdp said:


> No worries man, stuff happens.
> 
> In your position I would not spend the money on replacing the engine. The cost of repair will be 1/2 to 2/3 the cost of replacing the unit. And to be honest its advantageous to get a quality new one considering alternators these days have much lower THD and better voltage regulation.


I've found a used engine for $250 with the same info that will fit this generator.

Is it worth it? What's involved in replacing it? Will I need new seals, etc? Would it be a mistake for an experienced technical person, yet hasn't done it in a while, to attempt this?


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

If you are feeling handy and want to give it a shot I see no reason why you couldnt. Its a tricky job to remove the alternator though. It comes apart in sections and it requires at minimum a basic 3 jaw puller and care. I say try your hand at tearing the alternator down first. If it goes well, then buy the replacement engine.

I think this video is of a briggs gen.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

gossamer said:


> Is there a market for selling broken generators to be used for parts or the generator portion?


ebay is a good place to sell used gen parts
always some one who needs a rare part.


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## gossamer (Aug 9, 2020)

drmerdp said:


> If you are feeling handy and want to give it a shot I see no reason why you couldnt. Its a tricky job to remove the alternator though. It comes apart in sections and it requires at minimum a basic 3 jaw puller and care. I say try your hand at tearing the alternator down first. If it goes well, then buy the replacement engine.
> 
> I think this video is of a briggs gen.


I've followed your video for removing the alternator, but it's the engine that's defective. Is the proper procedure to first remove the alternator, even though there's nothing wrong with it? Is that how you get to remove the engine?


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

gossamer said:


> I've followed your video for removing the alternator, but it's the engine that's defective. Is the proper procedure to first remove the alternator, even though there's nothing wrong with it? Is that how you get to remove the engine?


yea you have to divorce the engine from the alt unit.
then re assy in reverse.
make sure to bag the parts with pictures and labels


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## gossamer (Aug 9, 2020)

iowagold said:


> yea you have to divorce the engine from the alt unit.
> then re assy in reverse.
> make sure to bag the parts with pictures and labels


Okay, one step forward and what I fear is too many steps backwards to continue.

I managed to get the stator off, but had trouble with the rotor.

I used a 7/16" tap with fine threads (NF20) and apparently that wasn't enough to keep the bolt from stripping the threads. Now I also have a 3/8" rod in there that won't come out. I tapped the hole at least 3/4th of an inch, so I know there was enough threads.

I have no idea why the rod won't come out. What could it be stuck on? Hopefully not the threads on the other end? I can wiggle it slightly in the hole with a small screwdriver. Maybe I can drill a hole down the center of it to pull it out with a self-tapping screw? Although I suppose it would turn while trying to drill and/or put a screw in it. I also don't think I have a drill small enough that's also long enough to fit in the hole.

I think my next move is to tap a thread for a 1/2" bolt, and shave off enough of the front of the bolt to make up for the small difference between where the tap ends and the 3/8" rod begins. Does that make sense?


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

on the larger retap on the big end try it!
how big of dia was the rod?
if it was too small of dia it could to have pressed its self in to the threads on the other end..

make sure you center punch the rod before you drill to make sure you are dead center.
if you try to drill the rod use an air craft bit.
they do make special reverse drill bits..
mcmaster carr should have that or zorro tools.
those are nice for extraction or can make it easy to spin it out in reverse if it is caught on the threads.
when doing a pushing rod i always use grade 8 or tool steel so it will not mash in or swell up under pressure.
it is a long way back in one of those center shaft parts in the rotor to where it bolts to the engine shaft.


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