# What Oil For Generator?



## Tboney (Sep 9, 2020)

I've got a little 4500 dual fuel Champion that I haven't quite got the 5 hour break-in done yet. When I do I was planning on using full synthetic oil. Champion recommends 10-30 but I realize that's a one size fits all recommendation. I am in the deep south and mainly have the little generator for power outages during spring storms and summer hurricane season so most of it's use will be during very hot conditions. I've had little need for it during the winter months but if I did we seldom get below freezing. Should I stick with 10-30 oil or bump up the viscosity a bit to allow for the hot conditions? Thanks.


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

10w-30 is fine. It’s good for a broad range of temperatures while still meeting viscosity requirements for your summer and winter temps. Run conventional or blend oil for one more oil change before switching to full synthetic.


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## LaSwamp (Mar 16, 2021)

My go-to for oil for the generators has been Chevron Delo 5w40. I've also used Delvac-1 and Shell Rotella T6. I like a heavier oil because conditions here are brutal for small engines. The Delo was what I had in the Wen when I ran it for about 70 hours straight. No problems at all. You're probably going to be fine with a good 10w30.


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## exmar (Jun 29, 2015)

Agree with good 10W-30. In high heat conditions remember that's an air cooled unit, both engine and generator head are sensitive. Make sure it's in the open where it can move air, don't stick in a corner, etc.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

we run oil magnets in all of the engines now. magnetic dipstick as well as magnetic drain plug if they have a drain plug.
we like to get the first oil out after the engine is full warm maybe 5 min to 30 min depending on temps where it is ran. 

it has to do with the assy lube paste used when they assy the engines.
and if you have a spin filter it can cork up a filter in a couple of min.

break in,
it will depend on the temps where it is ran and type of oil.
pre break in of 0 hours to 100 hours

for dyno oil and run the zddp additive to help on the upper valve etc.
run a good quality oil is the best thing... honda likes honda oil or castrol.
we use castrol 10-30 here in iowa with exception of a couple of months in winter we switch to 5-30 when it is sub zero.
over 130 deg f run 30 wt and best to get a fan on the gen set to help cool the windings.
40 deg f to 120 deg f run the 10 - 30
for cold weather -20 to 30 deg f run the 5-30

syn oil is its own thing for sure.
it will stand for more abuse.
it all depends on the oil mfg.
we like royal purple or castrol full synthetic.
and 5-30 rocks for iowa temps. with the exception of 100 deg f days and nights.
then we switch to 10-30 or rare strait syn 30w.
but we still use the zddp additive. it does not take much in a quart engine.

lots of other good brands out there!
ams oil, schaffer, lucas, mobile 1, cam 2, and the list goes on and on from there..
use what works for you and change it on the service marks or when the oil looks beat up or dark.
look at the bike mfg. and what they like for the single cyl engines...
and the race application for bikes (hard service)

oil brand is kinda like asking for a persons favorite food..
it will all depend on the area of the world they are from....
and what they have used for years.

make oil changes part of your good storm plan.
100 to 200 hours depending if you have an oil filter.


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## sportplumber (Nov 16, 2019)

iowagold said:


> we run oil magnets in all of the engines now. magnetic dipstick as well as magnetic drain plug if they have a drain plug.
> we like to get the first oil out after the engine is full warm maybe 5 min to 30 min depending on temps where it is ran.
> 
> it has to do with the assy lube paste used when they assy the engines.
> ...


Hey Paul, you provide a tremendous amount of great info here. Thank You. But I have always been puzzled about what it is you do? You say "We" a lot and seem to have a great deal of experience with generators, but can you provide context? Is it actual experience or conjecture? Sorry if I missed it some where else. Again great thanks.

Thanks,


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## pipe (Jun 27, 2021)

It looks like he is digging up truffels ... err... chanterelles


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

sportplumber said:


> Hey Paul, you provide a tremendous amount of great info here. Thank You. But I have always been puzzled about what it is you do? You say "We" a lot and seem to have a great deal of experience with generators, but can you provide context? Is it actual experience or conjecture? Sorry if I missed it some where else. Again great thanks.
> 
> Thanks,


service group.
lots of units in the fleets.
and I use them my self.
as well as design of power systems.
and contract services for fleets.


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## JVazquez53 (Jul 8, 2021)

Tboney said:


> I've got a little 4500 dual fuel Champion that I haven't quite got the 5 hour break-in done yet. When I do I was planning on using full synthetic oil. Champion recommends 10-30 but I realize that's a one size fits all recommendation. I am in the deep south and mainly have the little generator for power outages during spring storms and summer hurricane season so most of it's use will be during very hot conditions. I've had little need for it during the winter months but if I did we seldom get below freezing. Should I stick with 10-30 oil or bump up the viscosity a bit to allow for the hot conditions? Thanks.


I have used 10W30 Mobil One synthetic for over 21 years, as a matter of fact the motor on my 1999 Yamaha YG4600 still runs fine as pump since the generator part died in 2017. The day I took it to the Yamaha dealer they told me that the electrical part died but the engine was like new, no wear. That generator ran 4 months straight only stopping for fuel and oil changes. So, if you want that generator to last, use synthetic oil, and replace the dipstick with a magnetic one.


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## Tboney (Sep 9, 2020)

JVazquez53 said:


> I have used 10W30 Mobil One synthetic for over 21 years, as a matter of fact the motor on my 1999 Yamaha YG4600 still runs fine as pump since the generator part died in 2017. The day I took it to the Yamaha dealer they told me that the electrical part died but the engine was like new, no wear. That generator ran 4 months straight only stopping for fuel and oil changes. So, if you want that generator to last, use synthetic oil, and replace the dipstick with a magnetic one.


Anybody know where I can get a magnetic dipstick for a Champion 200991?


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## JVazquez53 (Jul 8, 2021)

Tboney said:


> Anybody know where I can get a magnetic dipstick for a Champion 200991?


Try Amazon. Most of these generators use the same dipstick/drain plug.


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## Dutchy491 (Sep 18, 2019)

Or contact Goldplug. Made in America, not off-shore junk. Gold Plug LLC - Magnetic Drain Plugs Dutchy


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

Dutchy491 said:


> Or contact Goldplug. Made in America, not off-shore junk. Gold Plug LLC - Magnetic Drain Plugs Dutchy


The Amazon and eBay stuff looks the same as goldplugs products, but looks are deceiving. I may give them a shot on my EUs, Im a fan of “made in America” products.


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## JVazquez53 (Jul 8, 2021)

drmerdp said:


> The Amazon and eBay stuff looks the same as goldplugs products, but looks are deceiving. I may give them a shot on my EUs, Im a fan of “made in America” products.


I have Amazon plugs on all my three generators, two of them Hondas EU7000is and one Firman 9000 watts. So far they are working fine.


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## tempestv8 (Sep 26, 2021)

I read somewhere that changing the viscosity of the oil to a higher viscosity than what the manufacturer has recommended, for the purposes of better oil shear protection when operating in high temperatures, may actually not be a wise move.

This is because the higher viscosity oil is harder to push around, and may result in the engine needing to burn more fuel to maintain the same RPMs required for the power generation. Burning more fuel not only increases fuel consumption but more critically generate more heat, which is not ideal for air cooled engines, especially when working in a hot environment.

I'd rather just put in good quality oil into the generator at the recommended viscosity, and change it out often. Also, I don't see the need for fully synthetic oils as these are generally formulated for automotive applications, but I'd just stick with small engine oils.


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## JVazquez53 (Jul 8, 2021)

I would not know, I have used the recommended oil well over 20 years and so far I have not have an engine failure. Same oil, 10W30 Mobil One.


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## speedy2019 (Jan 29, 2019)

I use Mannol Defender 10W40 semi synthetic



tempestv8 said:


> I read somewhere that changing the viscosity of the oil to a higher viscosity than what the manufacturer has recommended, for the purposes of better oil shear protection when operating in high temperatures, may actually not be a wise move.
> 
> This is because the higher viscosity oil is harder to push around, and may result in the engine needing to burn more fuel to maintain the same RPMs required for the power generation. Burning more fuel not only increases fuel consumption but more critically generate more heat, which is not ideal for air cooled engines, especially when working in a hot environment.
> 
> I'd rather just put in good quality oil into the generator at the recommended viscosity, and change it out often. Also, I don't see the need for fully synthetic oils as these are generally formulated for auto


But the whole idea of oil is that it sticks to the important parts. So to get oil to stick you need it just thick enough so it sticks, but not too thick to make the engine work harder than it should. And remember the hotter the engine gets, the thinner the oil becomes.


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## Dutchy491 (Sep 18, 2019)

I like the Synthetic Small Engine oils made by Amsoil. Its an oil dedicated to small engines (gas/diesel), which usually run hot, at high rpm, with sketchy maintenance and sometimes counted on to preserve life and limb. I know that everyone has a favourite oil... but how many companies make an oil specific for this purpose? Not many, but in a pinch one could use a motorcycle oil which is tougher that automotive oil. Mostly due to the higher concentrations of ZDDP. Check out the link and notice that the 10W30 can handle heat slightly better that the 10W40. Perfect for the Honda engines as they like 10W30. My two cents, Dutchy https://www.amsoil.com/c/4-stroke-power-equipment/12/?zo=331384


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## Robh (Aug 19, 2019)

I second the recommendation for Amsoil. It's all I use.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

hard to beat a good formula for small engines.
we add our own zddp and run the castrol.

and use the royal purple in the industrial applications.


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

iowagold said:


> hard to beat a good formula for small engines.
> we add our own zddp and run the castrol.
> 
> and use the royal purple in the industrial applications.


When I use automotive oil I also like to add a spike of zddp. A little goes a long way.


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## Dutchy491 (Sep 18, 2019)

True about using just a little. If you overdo it you risk accelerated wear due to galling. I’d rather have professionals/experts figure out the right concentration. Dutchy


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## LaSwamp (Mar 16, 2021)

iowagold said:


> hard to beat a good formula for small engines.
> we add our own zddp and run the castrol.
> 
> and use the royal purple in the industrial applications.


Is Royal Purple still good? I heard the company was sold a few years ago and they changed the formula. I used some of their gear oil in a Mazda manual transmission some years ago and it seemed to work fine. I've since switched to Red Line for gear oil.


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## Dutchy491 (Sep 18, 2019)

Royal Purple was bought by Calumet about 10 years ago. Oil formulas usually change over the years regardless of brand. Is it to improve fuel economy, to increase profits, to suit certain applications or meet new standards….??? Dutchy


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## Bluwolf (Nov 8, 2020)

LaSwamp said:


> Is Royal Purple still good? I heard the company was sold a few years ago and they changed the formula. I used some of their gear oil in a Mazda manual transmission some years ago and it seemed to work fine. I've since switched to Red Line for gear oil.


The only lubricants we would run in our racecars was Red Line. Someone tried to get us to switch to another name brand. We tried it in the rear end for one session. The temperature went up over 50 degrees. Needless to say that was the end of that test.


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

Redline is good stuff. I use mainly amsoil in our cars. Brad penn on the old stuff.


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