# Lifan ESi7000



## hfamracing (Oct 11, 2021)

Just wanted to get some more opinions about my generator issue. I have the fuel injected ESi7000. It is not getting fuel for some reason. When I turn the key to the on position to start it i get roughly 9.5v at the plug. When I turn over the motor to start it, it will pulse one time, shooting a little fuel and then will not do anything upon continuing to turn over the motor. I know that the injector is good. I know the generator will run, I have sprayed a little carb cleaner in the injector port and it will stay running. When its turning over I am getting 8.5 to 8.7v roughly at the plug. I want to say it might be the pick up on the crank, but it will stay running with cleaner. I'm leaning towards ECU but I am not sure if there is a way I can test it or not. Possibly test light to injector to see if it pulses, or where the signal comes in? Any input would be appriciated. I have looked into getting new ECU but of course they are on back order and no expected date to be in stock.

Thank you all!


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

try a new larger battery first and check the big battery connections.
efi takes a lot of power to make it fire right. most are at 10 amps plus the computer draw for 15 to 20 amps of draw.
the little batteries have a hard time keeping up for sure.
also check the battery charger ckt to make sure it is supplying enough to charge the battery when running.

ok efi is pwm so it is not hard voltage. they ramp up and down the voltage and the current.
so you can have a bad injector that is high ohms or even that is shorted inside from over heating.
then there can be the issue of a bad solder joint inside the injection driver pack (computer)
pm if you need help on efi testing equipment.
there are special test devices used for checking as well as for tricking the injectors to operate for cleaning them.

see if there are any mfg part numbers on the injector.
some are using universal injectors.
some are just made just for the injection system for that gen set.

you could have a bad temp sensor or a bad o2 sensor causing the exact issue you have.
does lifan have a tech tool for the dealers to see the efi computer?
there is a push for open source can buss for all efi systems.
then you could use a lap top or blue tooth connection to see the exact state on all sensors.
nice to see that as a tech for sure.


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

Cant hurt to try a jump pack on the battery as a first step. A noid light on the injector connector is a good second. Does the ECU/GCU have the ability to provide fault codes?


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

or use a volt meter on the battery connections.
most of those do not have a readout on the computer as they stand.
but they have a factory or service center test point.

oh yea if you can find the service manual for the gen set they should have
testing for the sensors.
as well as the ohms for the injector.


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## hfamracing (Oct 11, 2021)

I'll try a different battery to see. I have a small car battery I can use to power it to test it out. I can't check out battery charging side until I can get it running. I have a brand new injector I tried and it did not fire either. It did the same thing, just pulsed once then stopped.
If it was a temp/O2 I don't think it would run at all, even spraying a fuel source into the throat of the carb. I have also disconnected the low oil switch just to see but nothing happened, still no run condition. 
I'm not sure if they have a scanner. I will have to see but I highly doubt it.
I'm going to check on a service manual too.

I'll keep you updated.

Thank you!


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## Dutchy491 (Sep 18, 2019)

We haven’t been provided with how many hours that there are on the unit. If it has hundreds of hours yep it could be a mechanical issue. But…if age but low hours?….. battery issue. Start with the simple stuff first. Make it a habit to keep the new battery on a tender when not in use.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

hfamracing said:


> I'll try a different battery to see. I have a small car battery I can use to power it to test it out. I can't check out battery charging side until I can get it running. I have a brand new injector I tried and it did not fire either. It did the same thing, just pulsed once then stopped.
> If it was a temp/O2 I don't think it would run at all, even spraying a fuel source into the throat of the carb. I have also disconnected the low oil switch just to see but nothing happened, still no run condition.
> I'm not sure if they have a scanner. I will have to see but I highly doubt it.
> I'm going to check on a service manual too.
> ...


it all depends on the auto shut down sequence in the computer.
part of the design.
some have a health check after 2-3 min of run.
some do the oil level sense right a way, and oil quality as delay.
same on power quality check, they wait for warm up on the gen set first.
then the health check.

and yes on the noid light inline with the injector
they will give you an idea if the injector has a pulse voltage.
and you need an inline current meter to watch at the same time.
most of these are 5-10 amps of current to fire the injector.

also run an inline high pressure fuel gauge on the injector fuel feed to verify that the FI fuel pump is on all of the time when they key is forward.
you need a min pressure of 45 to 90 psi for the injection to work right.

you could have a bad fuel pump! or fuel pump wiring!
and yes you can by pass the fuel pump wiring to direct to battery for test. just watch the polarity.


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

http://www.lifanpowerusa.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/ESI-7000iER-NEW-MANUAL.pdf


The manual has a decent wiring diagram. 

Do you have spark? The ignition coil appears to be 12v with computer controlled ground through a crank position sensor.


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## hfamracing (Oct 11, 2021)

The unit only has 6 hours on it.
I’m planning on testing the battery and other things later today.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

drmerdp said:


> http://www.lifanpowerusa.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/ESI-7000iER-NEW-MANUAL.pdf
> 
> 
> The manual has a decent wiring diagram.
> ...


he has spark


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

drmerdp said:


> http://www.lifanpowerusa.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/ESI-7000iER-NEW-MANUAL.pdf
> 
> 
> The manual has a decent wiring diagram.
> ...


hey dr did you find a service manual for this lifan?


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

iowagold said:


> hey dr did you find a service manual for this lifan?


No service manual just the owners manual.



iowagold said:


> he has spark


Don’t see that in any of the posts.… 

Will it run on starting fluid?


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## hfamracing (Oct 11, 2021)

It will run on brake clean/starter fluid


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## hfamracing (Oct 11, 2021)

Update, swapped battery and still same results. It pulses once then stops.


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## hfamracing (Oct 11, 2021)

Its not getting a signal to the injector. I put a jumper wire from the ground to the ground of the injector and it fired over. I held it on for a sec then took it off and back on and I could keep it running, roughly but it was running. SO, its down to the ECU or the trigger, which Im going to guess it is. How would I test for the crank trigger? Just ohm it?


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## hfamracing (Oct 11, 2021)

Checked ohms at the crank signal. It’s showing 122 ohm resistance. So I’m assuming it’s good because if it was bad it would be 0ohms, also did continuity test between the terminals and no continuity.


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

No continuity and some resistance is a good start. Next is to check for ac volts while cranking. If you get voltage it’s likely OK. A shop manual would be a game changer right about now...

It’s odd that the ecu would pulse voltage instead of ground to fire the injector. ECU could be the issue. I’m sure most parts for this thing will be hard to find. 

Your luckiest bet right now is a bad connection at one of the connectors. I like to call it exercising the connections. Remove and reinstall a couple times a given connector and see if anything changes.

At 6 hours it’d be surprising but going deeper... Look for any sign of corrosion on the connector or component terminals. Take a good look at the backside of the connectors as well. Any exposed copper between the insulation and terminal.


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## hfamracing (Oct 11, 2021)

Got to speak with Paul from the forums. He is also helping me go in the right direction. I need to get another meter though. I have a cheap one and it won't read down to what I need it to. I would suggest to others to spend a few extra dollars to get a good one once then you won't have to buy another one. All the plugs look and feel ok. I have taken them all apart and reconnected them a few times but to no avail. IF it was the ECU, its on backorder so you all know how that goes. Thank you again Paul for the conversation and all the helpful information. I hope to put this to bed soon.


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

And what direction might that be? A Honda…😉


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## hfamracing (Oct 11, 2021)

Lol, if I could afford a new one or a used one I’d buy one.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

they are an investment.
and they hold value as well.


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## Joewolford (Nov 5, 2021)

OK so I have an energy storm esi 7000 also .... I had a dead battery so I hooked it up to some milk or cables to jump started and it wouldn't fire guessing because it was sitting too long.. But my problem now is that my LCD display is not lighting up at all or showing me anything is thing. Fuel pump doesn't sound like it turns on when I turn the key on?? Any ideas on what could be causing this?


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## Joewolford (Nov 5, 2021)

Joewolford said:


> OK so I have an energy storm esi 7000 also .... I had a dead battery so I hooked it up to some milk or cables to jump started and it wouldn't fire guessing because it was sitting too long.. But my problem now is that my LCD display is not lighting up at all or showing me anything is thing. Fuel pump doesn't sound like it turns on when I turn the key on?? Any ideas on what could be causing this?


Oops jumper cables


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

try a new battery or remove the battery and charge it.

most of these little gens will not act right till you get a good battery on the system.
jump pack will not work right or jumper cables.

make sure on the polarity as that can trash the modules.


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## Joewolford (Nov 5, 2021)

I just put a new battery in it hours ago and it's been charging but . Upon turning on the key it cranks and still no power to the display. No spark don't hear a fuel pump . . So far I have Disassemble all of the exterior panels And I have found 3 plugs that are not plugged into anything .... I'm guessing they are unused is. One of them comes out of the ECU and just dangles


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

check all of the fuses


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## Joewolford (Nov 5, 2021)

There is one fuse on the positive lead from the battery that is good another fuse directly underneath the motor That is also still good 30 amp.. I can't find any anywhere else....


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

check the voltages with a good volt meter
trace down the voltage feeds
you could have bad fuse holders.


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## Dutchy491 (Sep 18, 2019)

Joewolford said:


> OK so I have an energy storm esi 7000 also .... I had a dead battery so I hooked it up to some milk or cables to jump started and it wouldn't fire guessing because it was sitting too long.. But my problem now is that my LCD display is not lighting up at all or showing me anything is thing. Fuel pump doesn't sound like it turns on when I turn the key on?? Any ideas on what could be causing this?


Did it run okay the last time you had it running? And how long ago was that? Also what fuel type? Dutchy


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## PJF5959 (11 mo ago)

hfamracing said:


> Just wanted to get some more opinions about my generator issue. I have the fuel injected ESi7000. It is not getting fuel for some reason. When I turn the key to the on position to start it i get roughly 9.5v at the plug. When I turn over the motor to start it, it will pulse one time, shooting a little fuel and then will not do anything upon continuing to turn over the motor. I know that the injector is good. I know the generator will run, I have sprayed a little carb cleaner in the injector port and it will stay running. When its turning over I am getting 8.5 to 8.7v roughly at the plug. I want to say it might be the pick up on the crank, but it will stay running with cleaner. I'm leaning towards ECU but I am not sure if there is a way I can test it or not. Possibly test light to injector to see if it pulses, or where the signal comes in? Any input would be appriciated. I have looked into getting new ECU but of course they are on back order and no expected date to be in stock.
> 
> Thank you all!


I've got an ESI7000 that's doing the exact same thing, one pulse to the injector then nothing. It's intermittent - it may start in an hour and run fine for awhile. The battery is hot. I was wondering if you had any luck tracking down the problem with yours. I haven't had the time to check the temp and O2 sensors yet. Thanks...


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## Dutchy491 (Sep 18, 2019)

Give us some background info on your unit. How many hours on it, maintenance done, gasoline type used, how long since it has run and battery voltage on a dormant battery…


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## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

Seems to point to a bad battery and/or charging system. I'd start there. The EFI and ECU needs a stable power source (12V nominal) to work properly.

With the battery connected and the generator in the OFF position, measure the battery voltage after sitting unused for several hours, ideally, 24 hours. Then if you can start the generator, do so then check the voltage across the battery terminals again.


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## Cardcleaner (4 mo ago)

Joewolford said:


> OK so I have an energy storm esi 7000 also .... I had a dead battery so I hooked it up to some milk or cables to jump started and it wouldn't fire guessing because it was sitting too long.. But my problem now is that my LCD display is not lighting up at all or showing me anything is thing. Fuel pump doesn't sound like it turns on when I turn the key on?? Any ideas on what could be causing this?


I have the same model that had the exact same problem. No power to the display and no power to the fuel pump when switching the key on. It turned out to be the voltage regulator. The Red w/black wire sends 12 volts into the regulator and comes out at the pink wires when the key is switched on. When mine wasn’t working one of the pink wires was not getting 12 volts.
I was unable to get a replacement part so I simply put a jumper to pull 12 volts from the other pink wire.


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