# Buying first generator and need advice....



## Patrick61 (Aug 27, 2021)

After another major storm, I've decided it's time to buy that generator but as you already know, it's never just that simple. After doing just a little bit of research it seems like I have more questions now than before I started. 
An inverter generator seems to be the obvious choice since our demands are not great, they are more fuel efficient, quieter and provide "clean" power for our sensitive electronics.
The one thing I am certain of is that I do NOT want extension cords running all over the house. So, it'll be either GenerLink, manual transfer switch or Interlok device - all of which are approved by our power company. Can an inverter generator be connected to the house service panel or must it be used with direct plug in and/or extension cords only?
If it can NOT be connected directly to the house and I have to get a traditional generator instead, what are my options to protect our electronics?
Thanks for any advice you can provide.


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## AndrewL (Jul 24, 2017)

the connection options for an inverter is no different from a rotary. The Generlink is by far the most user friendly.


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## AndrewL (Jul 24, 2017)

Caveat on my above post - you need to check if a Generlink is compatible with a 120VAC input if you are looking at the smaller inverters which are 120VAC.


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## Browse Deweb (Jan 16, 2021)

If you're getting a generator to connect to your main panel, get a larger 240V inverter like the Honda EU7000is or similar genset. I can't recommend any other brands since I don't own any other brands.


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## Patrick61 (Aug 27, 2021)

Thanks for the info. Yes, now I see that I was only looking at inverters that would satisfy our needs at 2000-3000 watts and they are all 120v, at 5000+ watts you get 120v/240v. Now I'm rethinking this and need an experienced opinion - am I better off with the larger generator at 5-6k watts and running at 40-50% load rather than the smaller one that would need to run at 75-80% load most of the time? Also, the larger one gives me the option for more power if needed - I think I just answered my own question but please chime in either way.
As for the Generlink option, I'm actually leaning towards the Interlok device. Having done many home improvement projects over the years, I'm no stranger to basic electrical work. Installing an outdoor receptacle, dedicated breaker and Interlok device are well within my skill set. Not to mention that Generlink would cost over $1000 as opposed to the Interlok option that would be around $150 and provides the same functionality with only one additional step - flipping 2 breakers. To save over $800 I could put up with that minor inconvenience.


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## Dutchy491 (Sep 18, 2019)

And my simple response is buy once cry once. It’s your first generator so buy a suitable Honda. Ouch yes, but if you ever need to upgrade the resale value will pleasantly surprise you, not even considering the reliability!! Take good care of it and keep a maintenance log, Dutchy


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## Patrick61 (Aug 27, 2021)

I'm sure the Honda's are wonderful machines and if I lived "off the grid" it would probably become my best friend but my situation doesn't call for such exorbitance. I know myself and I wouldn't be able to sleep knowing I spent so much on something that I hope to never use. We live in the Northeast, and while it's true that we get threatened with severe storms throughout the year, and we do have outages 2 or 3 times a year, it's generally for hours and never days. I've found that meticulous care and maintenance will extend the life of any machine and/or tool, I don't see why a generator should be any different. Besides, we already own a "Honda", a Honda CR-V - it's parked in our garage and we love it!


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

the thing to think on the system is the BIG generlink setup would have you limited at 40 amps on you inlet max...
and is cool for renters as there is no other stuff to deal with on wiring on the building....

now if you own the place...
i think you are better off doing an interlock with a 50 amp inlet.
and update the house electrical system when you get a chance to modern code.
also it is nice to have a whole house surge protection as well.

pm if you need links.


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## Patrick61 (Aug 27, 2021)

We own, so the Interlok will probably be the way. Are you suggesting the 50 amp just for possible future upgrade or as a recommendation for a 6000 watt generator? All the inverters I have looked at in that range are 30 amp, am I missing something?


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

it is a bit over kill but it is nice as you do not have to deal with over heating with the temps we have been getting like the last few weeks.


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## Patrick61 (Aug 27, 2021)

Never thought of it from that perspective. I'll definitely give it consideration.Thanks.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

think of it as heat run away...
it is a real thing for sure...


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## agksimon (Jan 25, 2021)

I have a Champion 100520 inverter generator (7000 running watts). I have a 240 plug in the garage to feed the breaker panel in the basement. Storms knock out our power a couple of times and year and this generator runs the whole house except the A/C, in which case we use fans.


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## AndrewL (Jul 24, 2017)

To answer one of your questions in post #5 - you are better off getting a machine sized to run at 50% capacity of your average demand. Less stress on engine and generator head translates into longer life.


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## pipe (Jun 27, 2021)

Patrick61 said:


> ....options to protect our electronics?


In addition to our EU7000ISNAN, we have five of these in different parts on house. They isolate anything that is sensitive (music instruments, router, mesh extender, modem, flat screen, monitor and more..) and we swap out new batteries every 24 months - a preventative maintenance process similar to maintaining your car fluids at annual intervals instead of actual mileage. As an added bonus, they also provide a nice overview of prevailing voltage levels when on/off utility power. When running on the Honda we have a steady 121 volts on every outlet in entire house and 242 volts on multiple heatpump circuits.









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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

+1 on interlock and 6 gauge wire for the inlet wiring. Running the wire is the hardest part might as well go one and done with the benefit of extremely low voltage drop.

You can take two routes. 50 amp breaker in the panel, 50amp inlet box, and an adapter to go to 30 amp cord to be used with the generator. Or 30 amp breaker and inlet box which can always be upgraded later if you go big with a future generator.


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## Patrick61 (Aug 27, 2021)

We're short timers in our current home, probably another 4-7 years. With that in mind, I'm leaning towards the 30 amp setup - I don't envision stepping up in generator size, at least not in this house. As for the generator itself, I'm seriously considering a WEN GN625i. Everything I've read about it, and the company behind it, are very good and the price is excellent. Does anyone here have any firsthand experience/knowledge about this particular generator or any WEN generator?
Also, not to get too far ahead of myself but....location, location, location. How much of a difference would a 40 foot power cord from the generator to the inlet box make as opposed to a 20 foot cord? I've got an 8' x 10' shed about 30 feet from the house that would be perfect for shelter and some added sound proofing - of course I would leave the double doors open for air circulation when it's running.


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

Patrick61 said:


> We're short timers in our current home, probably another 4-7 years. With that in mind, I'm leaning towards the 30 amp setup - I don't envision stepping up in generator size, at least not in this house. As for the generator itself, I'm seriously considering a WEN GN625i. Everything I've read about it, and the company behind it, are very good and the price is excellent. Does anyone here have any firsthand experience/knowledge about this particular generator or any WEN generator?
> Also, not to get to far ahead of myself but....location, location, location. How much of a difference would a 40 foot power cord from the generator to the inlet box make as opposed to a 20 foot cord? I've got an 8' x 10' shed about 30 feet from the house that would be perfect for shelter and some added sound proofing - of course I would leave the double doors open for air circulation when it's running.


A 30amp inlet system will be fine For you. a 40 foot cord will add a bit of voltage drop but nothing too significant. That generator is only rated for 20amps. Priority is to be able to keep the generator sheltered, so definitely get a 50ft cord.

You may want to consider the champion power equipment variant. That have a better reputation for customer service. But cost a bit more. 








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## Bulldogger (Feb 19, 2021)

Patrick61 said:


> So, it'll be either GenerLink, manual transfer switch or Interlok device -


 My electric company does not allow Generlink. Generlink also sells a manual transfer switch they call EZ connect that comes with either a 40 amp or 50 amp plug or none. You can use the EZ connect I believe if the Generlink isn't allowed by your utility company. EZ-Connect, SolarLink | Global Power Products (generlink.com)


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## JohnWhicker (Feb 21, 2021)

Bulldogger said:


> My electric company does not allow Generlink. Generlink also sells a manual transfer switch they call EZ connect that comes with either a 40 amp or 50 amp plug or none. You can use the EZ connect I believe if the Generlink isn't allowed by your utility company. EZ-Connect, SolarLink | Global Power Products (generlink.com)


I wonder how much is the EZ-Connect? Their info email is not working so I couln;t get a price


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## Bulldogger (Feb 19, 2021)

JohnWhicker said:


> I wonder how much is the EZ-Connect? Their info email is not working so I couln;t get a price


 Home Depot has it. They range in price from $455 to about $650. The price depends upon if it has a main breaker and any inlets, 40 or 50 amp. The most expensive one has a 50 amp inlet built in on side and a main breaker. I think that you have to have the main breaker for it to be service entrance rated.


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## Tboney (Sep 9, 2020)

Patrick61 said:


> I'm sure the Honda's are wonderful machines and if I lived "off the grid" it would probably become my best friend but my situation doesn't call for such exorbitance. I know myself and I wouldn't be able to sleep knowing I spent so much on something that I hope to never use. We live in the Northeast, and while it's true that we get threatened with severe storms throughout the year, and we do have outages 2 or 3 times a year, it's generally for hours and never days. I've found that meticulous care and maintenance will extend the life of any machine and/or tool, I don't see why a generator should be any different. Besides, we already own a "Honda", a Honda CR-V - it's parked in our garage and we love it!


I agree 100% about the exorbitance of Honda generators. You can buy 3 or 4 comparable generators with more features for the price of one of these. I'm sure they're great but I'll never know unless I start to have power outages every week or two instead of every year or two.
Also, not all power companies will allow a generlink. Mine (Alabama Power) definitely does not allow generlinks. I installed my generator hookup to my inside power panel with an interlock as you proposed. It works flawlessly and it's safe and legal. I have a gas water heater and a gas stove so my 240 volt needs are few. It would be nice to run my central ac but a window unit will have to suffice while my power is out. I've got one on standby.


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## pipe (Jun 27, 2021)

EZ-Connect Transfer Switch with 200 Amp Main Disconnect EZC-M-200 - The Home Depot


The EZ-Connect transfer switch model EZC-M-200 is a manual transfer switch that gives the home owner the ability to run anything in their panel up to the capacity of their generator. There is no rewiring



www.homedepot.com


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## Ground Fault (Jun 9, 2020)

Voices told me to buy the Honda. Paul is their leader...


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## Bulldogger (Feb 19, 2021)

iowagold said:


> the thing to think on the system is the BIG generlink setup would have you limited at 40 amps on you inlet max...
> and is cool for renters as there is no other stuff to deal with on wiring on the building....
> 
> now if you own the place...
> ...


 Iowagold, do you know what "service rated" means? I see the switch from Generlink is fuseable, 200 amp breaker. However, I am considering this switch DT224URK-NPS | Eaton general duty double-throw safety switch | Eaton which says, "suitable for service entrance' or something like that. It's not fuseable. Apparently there is a kit to bond the neutral and ground to make it "service entrance rated'?


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

Bulldogger said:


> Iowagold, do you know what "service rated" means? I see the switch from Generlink is fuseable, 200 amp breaker. However, I am considering this switch DT224URK-NPS | Eaton general duty double-throw safety switch | Eaton which says, "suitable for service entrance' or something like that. It's not fuseable. Apparently there is a kit to bond the neutral and ground to make it "service entrance rated'?


????


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## pipe (Jun 27, 2021)

__





service entrance rated - Google Search






www.google.com


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

3 different things we are looking at here
EZ-Connect 
generlink
and interlock

*breaker panel manual interlock* is the old school way of dealing with a gen inlet if done right as safe.
and you select the inlet breaker size to match your system.

*generlink *is at the meter socket and inline with the meter with no extra protection.
relay / contactor A/B inlet style switch that could get lightning damaged contacts..
and some areas of the country utilities do not allow these.
and yes they have a version with *built in surge protection*!
but they are before any breakers or fuses protection in a home system.

*easy connect *is kinda a new fusion of 3 way knife out select power system and looks to have protection.
and looks to be custom order as well so you could get it to fit your power plan as required.


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