# Generator Problem, Please Help!!



## WCFRFirefighter (Aug 3, 2019)

Hello all, im new here so take it easy on me lol

Anyways, I searched to forum and can't find anything to help with my problems.

I recently purchased a Troy Bilt XP 7000 watt running 10500 starting generator from a elderly man, who stated that it worked fine.

It starts up and runs flawless, however, i'm having problems with some outlets not working.

It has 4 common house hold 120 volt outlets on a "extend a panel" contraption. The top two outlets dont work but the bottom two do (pictures attached), or when i hook a volt meter up to it it reads lower than 118 volts (it doesnt power anything and the volts drop to) when i turn on like a drill or anything like that). The bottom two outlets work fine with 119-120 volts when checked (runs everything with no problems.

Also, the generator has a 120/240v 30 amp twist lock as well. When I checked it, both hot sides has 120 volts on my meter, then after about 10 minutes, the volts dropped on one side to basically nothing.

All the breakers are on the "on" selection, and none of the two fuses I found were blown.

Specs are as follows: 

Troy-Bilt XP 7000Watt/10500 Starting Gas Generator Model # 030477 

Please help me out on this issue.


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## chris6414 (Aug 21, 2019)

I would check the voltages prior to the outlets and breakers. Be careful as a short will be unfused. This will at least tell you if the generator head (1 of the phases) is bad or you have a bad outlet or breaker.


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## wingless (Oct 29, 2019)

The generator has two sets of output power windings, one for each set of 120VAC outputs.

The NEMA 5-20 receptacles are wired so that the top are powered by one winding, the bottom powered by the other. Same for that NEMA L14-30 240VAC receptacle.

WRT the problem, where one winding sort of provides power, then droops to zero, my first guess would be poor wiring electrical connections, maybe from a prior overload.

The generator has a diode pack, excitation winding and field winding. All of that is shared by both power windings, so if one is working then all that is good.

Each output power winding has a circuit breaker and the interconnect wiring. All of those could be tested with a multimeter.

Measure the resistance of that output power winding. It should be something low, like 10 Ohms.

Disconnect each wire on the problem side and do a close-up detailed visual inspection. Look for loose and for burnt connections.


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## tabora (Sep 6, 2018)

If the breaker for those two outlets (between them) checks out OK, it could be that the brush (Part # *312904GS) *for that winding needs to be replaced.


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