# 240v operation



## blackburb (Jul 12, 2016)

We're just finishing a new off-grid cabin. We need 240v to run the well pump. I originally thought I could simply run 240 to the main panel and split two 120v legs just like at home. However, it seems after looking at the schematics on generators, that their 240v output is designed only to run 240v equipment and NOT to be used for two (typically unbalanced) legs of 120. Is this correct?


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## motormonkey (Jul 10, 2016)

I find that hard to believe. What kind of output plugs does this generator have?


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## exmar (Jun 29, 2015)

Semantics. You'll see "common" household voltage referred to as 110,117,120v. etc. Same thing on 220-240V. E.G. 110+110=220, OR 120+120=240. Same thing. Wire as you intend, it should be fine.


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## blackburb (Jul 12, 2016)

Well here's what happened and it's not semantics. Hooked up my Champion 3500 non-inverter in 240 volt mode. Running the microwave or coffee maker on the kitchen circuit (one leg) I noticed the blower on the wood stove on the living room circuit (other leg) increased speed substantially. A load on one leg caused a big INCREASE in voltage on the other leg. Looking at the schematic, it seems the way they generate 240 is to connect two 120 generators together. This is why I'm guessing it was only designed to run 240 equipment where each leg will have a balanced load.


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## motormonkey (Jul 10, 2016)

The only "non-inverter Champion 3500" I can find on the web is a 120 volt only... It only has 120 volt receptacles. I find no mention of a "240 volt mode". How are you getting 240 volts out of it?


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## blackburb (Jul 12, 2016)

Because they used to make one

And look at that, they still do... I guess you didn't look hard enough.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...t-3500w-4000w-portable-generator?cm_vc=-10005


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## motormonkey (Jul 10, 2016)

I asked what kind of connectors your generator had for a reason. You never did say what kind of connectors. That would have simplified things. That L14-30R receptacle has four conductors, the two legs of the 240, a ground, and a neutral.

It appears that you've already connected the two 240 volt legs into your breaker box. Now connect the neutral line to the neutral bus of your breaker box, and your problems will be solved.

I'll give you a hint. Neutral is the conductor opposite the L shaped conductor on the L14-30R receptacle. (The L shaped conductor is the ground. I have to hope you did connect a ground.) Neutral is usually a white wire.

I guess you didn't look hard enough at the specifications for that L14-30R connector.


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## blackburb (Jul 12, 2016)

I'm a retired electrician. I know how to wire and it is correct.


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## motormonkey (Jul 10, 2016)

blackburb said:


> ... However, it seems after looking at the schematics on generators, that their 240v output is designed only to run 240v equipment and NOT to be used for two (typically unbalanced) legs of 120. Is this correct?


The specifications for that generator clearly state that it is capable of 120/240 volt operation. An L14-30R connector and a label confirming this are clearly visible in the pictures. That's the only connector on that generator capable of providing 120/240 volt operation, and I have to assume that's the one you're using.

Being a retired electrician, you should know that an that L14-30 connector has a neutral conductor, and is therefore by definition designed and intended to be used in 120/240 volt operation. 

Being a retired electrician, you should immediately recognize the classic symptoms of a missing neutral in such a 120/240 volt circuit.

Being a retired electrician, you should know how to make simple continuity checks to troubleshoot the problem.

Hint. The neutral is open or missing somewhere between the windings of the generator and the load box.

I'm done with this thread.


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## blackburb (Jul 12, 2016)

No, it's not. The generator is the issue, not the wiring.

A*ss*ho*le


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## grouchy-hermit (Nov 28, 2014)

Seems like a good time to invoke an old parental warning: Don't make me come in there!


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