# New guy with a generator score



## D-50Dave (Sep 6, 2020)

I've scored what I hope is a good deal on a standby generator, but I need to tap the collective wisdom to make it work. I picked up this Generac with a transfer switch for $600.








The tag reads: Model # 93A 03766S Date 11/19/93 Type: SG011-A161.2V18PDYAY Fuel System # 76004
It has 267 hours on the clock. The story is that it came from a firehouse and it aged out and was replaced. I was told it was set up for natural gas and I've had that hooked up from the house. I replaced the 11 year old battery (yikes!) and fired it up, but ... no love. I checked for spark at the plugs, and that's good. I was able to read this off of the first valve in line from the house.








G-LP Valve Model SNC-1014-31B 12VDC .9amps 5psi Eaton.
My guess is the the "G-LP" means liquid propane. If so, what do I need to make this run on NG? The next things up the line are these.








Maxitrol Model# IMP 53








I thank you in advance for your help and input. Dave


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## D-50Dave (Sep 6, 2020)

A friend suggested that I might need to bleed the air out of the line, which I did. No difference. I'm guessing that the first valve is a safety shut off. It has 2 wires, one going to ground. I tested the "incoming" wire for voltage while cranking and got nothing. There's alot of new wiring, which makes me think that I'm going to need a professional to fix this. I'm in over my head. Thanks anyhow. Dave


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

reach out to Generac .
they should have the parts list for both the lp and natural gas versions.
natural gas has larger jets for the fuel.

also check on the pipe size to the house...
you will need a larger meter setup in most locations.
check the specs for how many btu this will run.
most of the time these are thirsty units...

the regulator diaphrams might be bad with age... the sitting is the worst on the rubber.


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## ToolLover (Jan 13, 2020)

In my opinion you have a good generator provided you follow thru and get it running.
That wire to a solenoid is where I would start.
That earlier model may no longer have Generac's help.
First I would look for the remote manual switch.
Select manual.
Then try again to start it, If no luck maybe we can talk you thru your problem.
First you need to see if Generac supports it after all these years.
Enter you model # here and get any info Generac will give you.








Powering your home, your business, your world.


website




www.generac.com




Sorry, but you need the serial number, Generac does not show anything under the model #.
See if you can find it, possibly on the tag.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

what is your city and state dave?


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## D-50Dave (Sep 6, 2020)

Branford, CT


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## ToolLover (Jan 13, 2020)

For the past several months this type of generator has been sold by an auction company online, Meadowbrook power Inc. Springfield Ill. 62703. Telephone number is shown.
Click the link.....


Pardon Our Interruption


The generators they have been selling are take outs from cell towers.
There are two problems with buying a 20+ year old take out.
First, they were maintained by men that are much older now and have possibly retired, but you can bet that this company has men that can repair your generator or offer advice about how to fix it. Who knows, they may have a schematic.
Second, Generac seems to drop support after 20 years.
I did find a schematic for a similar generator made in 2001.
Simply copy and paste the model number into Generac's search line shown in my earlier post.
The schematic covered two pages that included the transfer switch that was enclosed inside the generator.
I copied the schematic and then just last week I trashed it thinking I would not buy one.
I decided to see what I could find that may be of help to you, so here goes.
Once you get the web site up, look for any 15 KW Generac that was made after 2000.
I found two: 2001, serial number 3530802, model 0009951.
2001, serial number 3519022. model 0009951
The serial numbers need to be in the later 3500000 numbers.
Maybe the schematic of these units will be similar to the one you have.
Once you get the schematic maybe we can help you


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## ToolLover (Jan 13, 2020)

OK, so I got some time to try one of the model numbers and it worked.





Generac Power Systems - Find My Manual, Parts List, and Product Support


Enter your model or serial number to find Generac specifications, manuals, parts lists, FAQs, how-to videos, and more for your product.




www.generac.com




Once there, click the engine schematic.
Wait for it to load.
Then save it to your downloads. I did find several prints pertaining to the system for downloading.
I bet that Generac did use the same engine schematic for most of those units. One can only guess.
To start with, you need a good battery fully charged,
Water level up to the marked line, and oil up to the proper level.
Once you are sure if these items, then go for fuel flow.
You should feel the fuel solenoid click.
Then back to the fuel flow. Improper gas regulators will give you untold problems, so you need to be sure your regulators are allowing gas to flow.
There needs to be two regulators on both the propane and NG lines.
Once to that point then we need to get into the schematic.

Added note: I did find a listing for a model 0009950 which was a 1998 unit. I compared the download pdf numbers and they match the 2001 year 0009951 listing.


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## D-50Dave (Sep 6, 2020)

Thank you so much! That unit looks just like what I have. My fluids are all up to par. New battery cranking strong. I do not hear/feel a click the solenoid. (I'm guessing we're talking about the silver unit with 2 wires in the second picture)


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## ToolLover (Jan 13, 2020)

I took time to trace the Fuel Solenoid wire 14 on schematic 0A7271 or 0A7272.
First I would be sure that the wire from the relay board going to the gas valve is not broken.
The #14 goes from the solenoid to the Relay Board where it is color coded RY1.
(lower right side of the schematic.)
Wire 14 then leaves the Relay board and goes to the HM (hour meter).
(Mid ways in the schematic)
Wire 14 T's off the HM and snakes it's way to TB-1 shown on the schematic.
Once on TB-1 the screws are shown jumped T6 + T7.
Two bleed off capacitors are tied there and again wire 14 goes to pin 7 on the PCB board.
Provided that all connections are tight at all terminations, then you might have a big problem.
You need to get the PCB board ID number and get in touch with Generac for a replacement.
Generac may not cooperate with you as you are not one of their dealers.
But before you get into replacing the PCB lets look further.
The following is what I would do if it were mine, but be very CAUTIOUS!
You can devise a way to see if you can manually jump the gas valve with 12 volts and make it energize. Your problem could be that you just have a bad gas valve, and that can be replaced very easily.
You should however remove wire 14 before jumping the solenoid so as to not back feed the PCB board.
Finding a schematic of the PCB board will not likely be had.
If it were mine I would take the board out and put it on the bench and devise a way to fix it.
Don't leave us hanging. Let us know what you find. It could help others.
By the way, be sure that you have the pressure regulators in line and working.


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## ToolLover (Jan 13, 2020)

Well, D-50Dell must have given up.
I searched for any forum that had any info on Generac generators.
I found one and the problems are immense with parts and schematics.
One guy said Generac did return his call about a part.
They told him he would have to contact a dealer for the part.
He made several calls to dealers and all refused to sell him the parts he needed.
You know, that leaves a bad taste in any buyers mouth.
At my age, the Generac will probably out last me, but I for one will not buy Generac in the future.
I wish I had a buyer, As I would sell and get out now.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

same here 
I have no time for companies that will not sell parts if you have the cash!
all that secret hand shake stuff has got to go!!
lol!!
I will stick with my hondas!
I have yet to have honda refuse to sell me parts!!
or take my money!!
lol!


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## D-50Dave (Sep 6, 2020)

No, ToolLover, I haven't given up. 😉 I have an electrician who will do diagnostics as well as hookup to the house. He had me start at the meter and I need to double it's flow rate before I have enough fuel available to satisfy all my gas needs. I'm working with my utility to make that happen. It may be a slow process, but I will keep this post updated as things move along. Thanks for your help and encouragement. Dave


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

take your time and plan well is the best advice from me!


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## D-50Dave (Sep 6, 2020)

So, I'm back with more questions. We've determined that the solenoid is not working. Generac part # 043768A. Made of Unobtainium, NLA. He gave me another part # to look for, Y74521. Comes up as a general purpose solenoid. Would that work as a replacement? Better suggestions for a replacement? Thanks in advance for your input, Dave.


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## Old man here (Nov 5, 2020)

D-50Dave said:


> So, I'm back with more questions. We've determined that the solenoid is not working. Generac part # 043768A. Made of Unobtainium, NLA. He gave me another part # to look for, Y74521. Comes up as a general purpose solenoid. Would that work as a replacement? Better suggestions for a replacement? Thanks in advance for your input, Dave.


Try here, these guys are the Generac guru's:






Generac Generator Troubleshooting, Help, and Repair Forum | Gentek Power - Index page







gentekpower.com


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## ToolLover (Jan 13, 2020)

Dave, I called the gas company and told them what I had increased my service demands to and asked for a delivery check on the meter. The service guy immediately swapped out the meter and installed a larger unit. They want to sell all of the gas they can.


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## Ground Fault (Jun 9, 2020)

Why cant somebody just come up with a nuclear backup generator...that would solve the gas/NG/LPG/E85 problem once and for all. Or at least for 50 years...


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## tabora (Sep 6, 2018)

Ground Fault said:


> Why cant somebody just come up with a nuclear backup generator...


Because the permitting process is h3ll... Can't even buy a retired sub or carrier with the power plant intact.


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## D-50Dave (Sep 6, 2020)

ToolLover said:


> Dave, I called the gas company and told them what I had increased my service demands to and asked for a delivery check on the meter. The service guy immediately swapped out the meter and installed a larger unit. They want to sell all of the gas they can.


Over the winter, had the gas co. upgrade my meter from 250 to 500 cfm. Generator max demand somewhere around 280, I was told. So that's taken care of.


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## D-50Dave (Sep 6, 2020)

Old man here said:


> Try here, these guys are the Generac guru's:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanx! I'll go check them out.


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## Ground Fault (Jun 9, 2020)

> Can't even buy a retired sub or carrier with the power plant intact.


Well that's a deal breaker for me...


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## D-50Dave (Sep 6, 2020)

I've gotten it up and running, but no joy on generating any. How do I check the windings? Here's what I'm see at the brushes.








Thanx, Dave


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

did you clean up the slip rings and the brushes?


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## ToolLover (Jan 13, 2020)

OK, So you need more Generac experienced help. Go here and ask: Ziller Forum (zillerstore.com) 
These guys are old time Generac repairmen. They will help you.


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## D-50Dave (Sep 6, 2020)

iowagold said:


> did you clean up the slip rings and the brushes?


Are the slip rings the parts where the brushes rest on? How does one clean them up? Thanx, Dave


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

green scotch brite
and make long strips works the best .
remove the brushes so you can wrap the scotch brite around the rotor.
and only while rotating the rotor like you would in a lathe.
do not scrub them with out constant rotation or you will make flat spots.


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## D-50Dave (Sep 6, 2020)

iowagold said:


> green scotch brite
> and make long strips works the best .
> remove the brushes so you can wrap the scotch brite around the rotor.
> and only while rotating the rotor like you would in a lathe.
> do not scrub them with out constant rotation or you will make flat spots.


When you say "rotating the rotor", do I run the engine?
Thanx, Dave


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

most remove the spark plug first and use the starter.
or remove the recoil and use a drill with a socket off the flywheel nut.

run the engine is a good way to get hurt.


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## D-50Dave (Sep 6, 2020)

iowagold said:


> most remove the spark plug first and use the starter.
> or remove the recoil and use a drill with a socket off the flywheel nut.
> 
> run the engine is a good way to get hurt.


I'm not looking for yet another way to get hurt. I'll remove the plugs and run the starter. Thanx!


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

at least you can control the spin on off with the electric.
we use the drill method if the gen system is total apart with all covers off for rebuild.


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## D-50Dave (Sep 6, 2020)

I cleaned the slip rings with green scotch brite, holding it against the rings while I turned the engine over with the starter. With my multimeter in the 200 range, the reading is 10.0.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

D-50Dave said:


> I cleaned the slip rings with green scotch brite, holding it against the rings while I turned the engine over with the starter. With my multimeter in the 200 range, the reading is 10.0.


just check the ohms when not spinning.


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## D-50Dave (Sep 6, 2020)

The cleaning was spinning, the reading was not spinning.


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## D-50Dave (Sep 6, 2020)

I gotten back to working on this generator. I want to remove the gen from the engine. I've disconnected, unbolted everything I can see to split them apart. I can't get it to budge. I think the threaded hole inside the slip rings is the end of the crankshaft. Correct?









How do I apply force effectively to split the 2? Thanx, Dave


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## ToolLover (Jan 13, 2020)

INCORRECT!!!!
Remove the field before trying to remove the armature.
I am sure that the threaded hole is the hole to push the armature off the engine crank shaft. You need the field removed first!!!!!
Remove the brush holders to begin with.
Once you have the field removed you will get the idea.
Do not try to beat the armature off with a hammer!!!!
The armature is installed firmly on a tapered shaft.
As to the threaded hole: It appears to be a 5/8 fine thread. Hard to tell.
From the picture.
It may be a 3/4 fine.
If you do not have the threaded rod of the correct length, then one way to push the armature off the crank shaft is to make a grease fitting that is adapted to fit that threaded hole and then pump it full of grease until the armature releases.
The armature will not separate easily.
I am curious as to why you want to separate the gen from the motor.
You are going to have a difficult time getting a new armature onto the engine shaft permenately.


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## D-50Dave (Sep 6, 2020)

ToolLover, thanks for the reply. If by "field" you mean the outside shell (I've seen it refered to as the stator), that's what I want to remove. The inner part (rotator) has tested as good. I think the outside part is where my problem lies. I thought if I could get it off, I could bring it to an electric motor repair guy to have him look at it. I can't get the stator to budge. I thought maybe both parts came off as a unit, but by your reply, I gather they remove seperately, which is good for me. I don't want to remove the inside part from the driveshaft. Thanx, Dave


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## ToolLover (Jan 13, 2020)

If you could find a gear puller with a large enough shaft that will work or even place a washer to cover the threaded hole in the shaft.
It would take a bit of tinkering to attach the puller
I bet the guy you have contacted has a puller.
Now on the other hand, if you are sure the stator is bad, you might give it a few taps with a fiber mallet.


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## D-50Dave (Sep 6, 2020)

I have a large 3-jaw puller. I'll see if I can use that to put pressure on it and then give it a few raps with a fiber hammer I have. Thanx, Dave


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## D-50Dave (Sep 6, 2020)

Success!










Thank you for your guidence. On to the next step. Dave


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