# Unable to start Husqvarna 350BT leafblower



## scottycam (Nov 16, 2011)

I have a Husqvarna 350BT leaf blower. 

It was running fine last season and then towards the end of the season, it started to have a hard time staying on. When I give it gas, it would lose power and then eventually die, never to be started again. 

FastForward to this season and it won't kick over. I have checked everyting but perhaps I'm doing something wrong. Has anyone expeirenced this before and if so, what can be done. 

Below is a list of things that I have done/checked. 


*New Spark Plug
*New fuel filter
*Semi clean air filter, not dirty enough to prevent starting (even tried it without the filter)
*Cleaned carburetor and diaphragms. (there was rust where the needle/levers were, but I was able to clean all of that up fairly nicely with some TLC) didn't work after this even though I was confident it would. 
*Purchased a diaphragm/repair kit and replaced the lever, needle, spring, all diaphragms.. basically replace everything that was supposed to be replaced except for the needle seat. 
*Checked spark arrestor plate (clean)
*Fuel line is clear and not blocked
*Air Purge line is clear and not blocked
*When primed, gas does goes through the carb, there's gas in the clear primer bubble
*There's spark (unscrewed spark plug, connected it to wire, pulled cord and saw a very faint spark) so that rules out electrical. 
*Gas/Oil mixture is fine (although, possibly old gas as I don't remember when the last time it was that it was changed. 
*Coil pulls ok, it just won't kick over. 


**Hm... Could Old gas prevent this from starting? If so, is there anything I can add to the gas or do I need to get new gas? 
Do those gas additives really work?

I'm open to any and all ideas to get this fixed.


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## scottycam (Nov 16, 2011)

Also, what's the general rule regarding the height of the Level/Float assembly?


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## cedgo (Sep 29, 2011)

Doubt this is it, but check the spark arrest on the exhaust.


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## rhenning (Jul 23, 2011)

I would use new gas or at least mix the old with more than 50% new gas. I not sure what you are talking about as a diaphragm carburetor doesn't have a float. Often with those little carbs it is just cheaper to buy a new carb as any clogging in the fuel passages will be about impossible to get out. Roger


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## Apple211 (Jan 29, 2015)

Interesting read. Thanks for the share.


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## jow (Aug 16, 2012)

Fire/Fuel/Compression are the basics to fire and run. Have you verified you have all 3? 
1. Are you seeing a good blue spark when checking fire? With plug removed, grounded to metal on the Eng when you pull as starting.
2. Have you primed with a “Little” premixed fuel in the carb or plug’s hole?
3. Have you checked the compression for at least 100 psi or you c/n hold the compression in with your thumb or finger?
4. If it fires from a prime but w/n continue, your carb adj screws or int carb fuel screen might be restricted.


Good Luck!


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## jow (Aug 16, 2012)

How long was it stored and was that with treated fuel as Stabil that add longer life to corn fuel? If it is firing with good compression, add fresh treaded fuel with about an oz of carb cleaner. Try to prime it to get it to run with the fresh treated fuel w/o flooding it. The little carbs will usually clean up w/o any needed parts using compressed carb cleaned and fine wire to verify “ALL Ports” are open and adjusted if you have some carb experience.

If you have or need local help, you might try a local yardman if he has time.


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## GUYWITHTHEGOLDENGUN (Jun 22, 2015)

Have you tryed pouring a little gas inside the cylender and then try firing it up? U may have carbin build up on the exaust port


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## GUYWITHTHEGOLDENGUN (Jun 22, 2015)

Better just replace the carb


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