# ETQ Model TG32P12 4000 watt Generator



## Sparky2021 (Dec 3, 2020)

Hi Guys and Gals. I have the above Generator (see Photo) and I was going to use it to power all my outside christmas lights and yard blow-up decorations. It had been running just fine prior to this. I changed the oil, put it in place, hooked up all the lights and decorations and started it. It ran just fine for about 20 minutes then the rpm went high. I shut it down. I waited about an hour and tried to start it again. You can pull on the starter rope and it will start to turn over then you hit a spot where it is very difficult to finish turning the engine over. It will not start. 

Do any of you have any idea what has happened? I haven't started disassembly yet as I wanted to share what has happened with all of you and maybe get some insight as to how to go about fixing the problem.

Thanks in advance and Merry Christmas and a Happy and Safe New Year to everyone.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

well the owners manual first
click here for the owners manual link
pretty basic chonda engine.
check first thing first.
make sure it has gas,
make sure it has oil,
remove the spark plug check it and snap a pix and leave it removed.
pull the rope and see if the engine is free.
if it is replace the plug.

the off to check spark with an inline spark tester

if you have spark then you are on to compression test.
oreilly rent a tool has those for free. (deposit required)
it should be at least 90 psi min.

form there look at fuel delivery
drop the carb fuel bowl turn on the gas shut off valve and see if gasoline is free dribble flowing.
if it is turn back off the fuel valve.
and check for trash in the bottom of the bowl.

also pull the valve cover and verify the valve action and check valve lash
let me know if you need a valve set spec
it should be in the owners manual.


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## Sparky2021 (Dec 3, 2020)

iowagold said:


> well the owners manual first
> click here for the owners manual link
> pretty basic chonda engine.
> check first thing first.
> ...


Iowagold---Thanks for the info and suggestions. I know the generator has gas and oil. I will run through all the other checks and get back with a updated post. As I said, when you pull the starter rope and come to the compression stroke, normally, you can pull through it without a lot of resistance. Since the high rpms the compression stroke is very hard to pull through, you have to really pull hard to get the crank to turn through it.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

check the valve lash


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## Sparky2021 (Dec 3, 2020)

I would love to check the valve lash if I could find what they are supposed to be! The manual that came with the generator does not say. I don't find anything on the engine that tells me what they are supposed to be. I have searched the internet and still no information. 
Maybe someone on this forum can tell me. Here is the info on the engine that I have:

7HP 207cc, 12.63 Cu. In.
The generator is a ETQ model TG32P12CA.

Any help is appreciated.


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## Coco (Dec 21, 2018)

Sparky2021 said:


> I would love to check the valve lash if I could find what they are supposed to be! The manual that came with the generator does not say. I don't find anything on the engine that tells me what they are supposed to be. I have searched the internet and still no information.
> Maybe someone on this forum can tell me. Here is the info on the engine that I have:
> 
> 7HP 207cc, 12.63 Cu. In.
> ...


The valves are under this cover Rocker Cover 73240624 look on youtube for videos


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## Sparky2021 (Dec 3, 2020)

Coco said:


> The valves are under this cover Rocker Cover 73240624 look on youtube for videos





Coco said:


> The valves are under this cover Rocker Cover 73240624 look on youtube for videos


Yes, I know where the valves are. In fact, I have the cover off now. I just need to know what the lash should be for each valve. I want to be sure I have the correct numbers so I don't make then too loose or too tight.


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## Jump (Nov 19, 2020)

You may want to research a similar engine for specifications. I imagine most 7 hp 207cc engines have similar settings; valve clearance , etc. You will be in the ball park which should be good enough.

Jump


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

lash will be in sae thousandths
*intake .006
exhaust .008*


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## Sparky2021 (Dec 3, 2020)

iowagold said:


> lash will be in sae thousandths
> *intake .006
> exhaust .008*


Thanks for the information. I will be doing the adjustment today or tomorrow.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

check and see if it is tight (lower lash number) first!


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## Sparky2021 (Dec 3, 2020)

OK, adjusted the valves and it is now running, HOWEVER, with the choke all the way open the engine runs at a very high RPMs. Much higher than normal idle. I took the carb off and checked it out and saw nothing wrong. It almost points to a stuck governor. Before I put the carb back on is there anything else I should check or do?


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

you are saying with the choke off it is high rpm?
do you have a hz meter setting on your vom? (volt ohm meter)
look at the hz.
that is the most important thing...
also look at voltage.

if you have a tach look at the rpm.

did you get the rods and springs back in the right holes on the carb?
and is any linkage rubbing?


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## Sparky2021 (Dec 3, 2020)

iowagold said:


> you are saying with the choke off it is high rpm?
> do you have a hz meter setting on your vom? (volt ohm meter)
> look at the hz.
> that is the most important thing...
> ...


I have pulled the carb, cleaned it and made sure everything is good with it. Today I am going to take the gas tank off and see if some part of the governor is hanging on something. That is about all that could be causing the high rpms. I think that will be the final fix. Will let you know.


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## Sparky2021 (Dec 3, 2020)

Sparky2021 said:


> I have pulled the carb, cleaned it and made sure everything is good with it. Today I am going to take the gas tank off and see if some part of the governor is hanging on something. That is about all that could be causing the high rpms. I think that will be the final fix. Will let you know.


OK, I put it all back together this morning and started it up. Runs as expected with the choke full on. When I turn choke off the RPM's go way high, a lot higher than the new generator of the same size I just bought. Now, here is the sequence of events:
1. I changed the oil. 
2. Pulled the generator to the spot I wanted it placed to power all our outside Christmas lights and yard decorations.
3. Started it up and it ran fine. I wasn't ready to hook it up yet so I shut it down.
4. Ran all the extension cords etc. from lights and decorations and laid them down beside the generator. 
5. Started the generator and for a few seconds it ran normally.
6. Then, all of a sudden, the rpms went high. I immediately shut it down. Later I tried to restart and that is when I noticed that the pull rope would come out so far and then it took a lot of extra pull to get the engine to turn over. It never would start running. 
7. Set valve lash to specs and engine was much easier to turn over. 
8. Removed air filter, gas tank, and carb.
9. Cleaned carb, put carb, air filter and gas tank back on.
10. Started engine with full choke. Fired right up and ran as it should with choke on. Turned choke off and RPM's immediately went high again. I shut it down and that is where is is now.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

is the carb on back wards?
the idle screw should be close to the engine.


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## Sparky2021 (Dec 3, 2020)

iowagold said:


> is the carb on back wards?
> the idle screw should be close to the engine.


I'm afraid not. It will only go on one way, otherwise the governor linkage will not connect to it. There is a governor adjustment screw located just above the carb which will adjust the second intake plate in the carb throat.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

how old is this generator?
and what is the warranty on it?
just asking.

and do you have a small engine tach?


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## Sparky2021 (Dec 3, 2020)

iowagold said:


> how old is this generator?
> and what is the warranty on it?
> just asking.
> 
> and do you have a small engine tach?


The generator is 7 years old, but it does not have a lot of hours on it. I installed a hour meter when I got it and there is less than 100 hours on it. Warranty expired. No, I don't have a small engine tach. I'm thinking of getting one. 
I checked the governor and nothing is binding anywhere. It is one of those types that are controlled internally in the engine, not by the flywheel wind. I think my best option may be to get a new engine as the generator works just fine and doesn't have that many hours on it. Like I said, I didn't change anything other than the oil before this issue started.


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## Sparky2021 (Dec 3, 2020)

Sparky2021 said:


> The generator is 7 years old, but it does not have a lot of hours on it. I installed a hour meter when I got it and there is less than 100 hours on it. Warranty expired. No, I don't have a small engine tach. I'm thinking of getting one.
> I checked the governor and nothing is binding anywhere. It is one of those types that are controlled internally in the engine, not by the flywheel wind. I think my best option may be to get a new engine as the generator works just fine and doesn't have that many hours on it. Like I said, I didn't change anything other than the oil before this issue started.


I just ordered a small engine tach and a new multimeter with a hrtz reading. Both will be here monday, so by mid week I will check those items per the manual.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

yea the hz is the most important to look at
full load min 59 hz and no load 61 hz max

then from there look at the rpm.

if the hz and rpm is both high it is a gov / load speed issue.

lol if it was here it is easy for a tech to look at these things and adjust them.


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## Sparky2021 (Dec 3, 2020)

iowagold said:


> yea the hz is the most important to look at
> full load min 59 hz and no load 61 hz max
> 
> then from there look at the rpm.
> ...


I just discovered that if I start the generator and look at the throttle control linkage the throttle is in the wide open or full speed position. I can control the speed by moving the linkage back and forth but if I let go of it, it will go to full throttle. As this linkage is connected to the shaft that goes down into the engine, does this mean there is something wrong internally and if so, can it be fixed? I have never torn one of these engines apart but am willing to do so if I can fix the problem, or would I be better off buying a new engine?


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

sure they can be repaired.
if you were close to me we could do it together!

so what is the engine speed?


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## Sparky2021 (Dec 3, 2020)

iowagold said:


> sure they can be repaired.
> if you were close to me we could do it together!
> 
> so what is the engine speed?


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## Sparky2021 (Dec 3, 2020)

Can't say now. Tach and htz meter arriving tomorrow but may not be here until late, so it may be Turesday before I can check them. As soon as I can I will send you a message with the values.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

ok cool!


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## Sparky2021 (Dec 3, 2020)

iowagold said:


> ok cool!


Paul----I got the two items needed to check the hz and the rpm's today. Unfortunately, it is raining cats and dogs and I won't be able to check anything until tomorrow sometime. I will let you know the results as soon as I make the checks. I expect the rpm's to be way high as the throttle on the carb is wide open but I can move it with my finger and the speed drops. Don't know about the hz.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

lol
we are expecting S N O W in the next 12 hours...
30 mph winds and 5-7 inches...
and maybe ice?
yea we have bee going like mad to be ready here for this!
getting closer!

yea the hz is the most important thing.


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## Sparky2021 (Dec 3, 2020)

iowagold said:


> lol
> we are expecting S N O W in the next 12 hours...
> 30 mph winds and 5-7 inches...
> and maybe ice?
> ...


Paul, I am almost ready to run the two tests, the hz and the rpm. I have read where the generator should have a full load on it when the tests are run. True or false? If true I have 8 yard blow up decorations and 6 strings of LED lights the new generator is powering. I can run a short extension cord and hook all up to the sick generator.


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## Sparky2021 (Dec 3, 2020)

Sparky2021 said:


> Paul, I am almost ready to run the two tests, the hz and the rpm. I have read where the generator should have a full load on it when the tests are run. True or false? If true I have 8 yard blow up decorations and 6 strings of LED lights the new generator is powering. I can run a short extension cord and hook all up to the sick generator.


Paul, here is the readings with no load: RPM=5870. HZ=300 to 400. I could be wrong, but I think the entire problem has to do with the governor, and I think the problem is inside the crankcase. I think something broke or fell apart which allows the governor arm and springs to keep the throttle plate in the carb full open. What say ye?


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

well it could be split plastic parts
drain out the oil to a clean container.
use an inspection camera in the oil fill and see if there is plastic or metal trash in the bottom of the crank case.

from there engine split the case tear down is needed to inspect the gov.

*click here for a maybe replacement engine*
*$415.00 you could have a new honda engine.*


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## Sparky2021 (Dec 3, 2020)

Paul, I just found something on the internet about adjusting the governor on a small engine. This may be my entire problem. Here is the content: "to adjust the governor, you would loosen the screw on the bottom of the governor arm and push the governor arm so the throttle is wide open. Then you would turn the bottom "clip" (which is connected to the governor shaft) counter clockwise. This will set the governor shaft on top of the Governor spool". 

Compare this information to the photos I sent The question is, how far do you turn the shaft counter clockwise before locking the governor arm on the shaft?

I will get my inspection camera either tomorrow or sunday and take a look inside the crankcase.


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## Sparky2021 (Dec 3, 2020)

OK guys, I am just a dumb ole country boy from Alabama. I just looked inside the crankcase with my inspection camera and I see no junk, bits or pieces. So it appears the governor is still in one piece. Now, in the above post I entered a statement in quotes that I found on the internet concerning adjusting the governor on a small engine. I have attached a photo of the outside portion of the governor on the generator in question. I have also put an arrow pointing to the "clip" I assume they are talking about. In the photo the shaft of the governor is shown in the position that causes the engine to run at full throttle and the clip and shaft is rotated full right. It will only turn counter clockwise if I remove or lossen the governor arm. Can I assume that if I losseen or remove the governor arm, turn the governor shaft counter clockwise as far as it will go and then tighten the arm on the shaft, that the engine should run at normal rpm's?


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## tabora (Sep 6, 2018)

Here's Taryl's video on the small engine governor - start at about 3:00...


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## Sparky2021 (Dec 3, 2020)

I actually watched that very video about 2 hours ago and did what he showed. I must have gone the wrong way because when I started the generator it still runs wide open. Tomorrow I will try going the other way. If that does not work then I will pull the engine, open the case and see what is going on. If I find nothing I will look for a replacement engine.


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## Sparky2021 (Dec 3, 2020)

Good news guys, I think, I just opened the crankcase and the plastic gear on the governor is in about a million pieces. So, all I have to do no is find a replacement, order it and install when it arrives. If any of you know of a good place to get one let me know. The engine is a 7hp engine. 
Thanks for everyone's help and advice.
Sparky.


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## Sparky2021 (Dec 3, 2020)

I found a replacement kit on Amazon for $9. It will be here saturday, then the rebuild starts.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

GRIN!
surprised those parts did not show up on the inspection...
yea... 
good find on the broke!
in the future..
make sure the engine is not dropped off a truck...
some times they get broke or cracked in original shipping!!

I had one in 2020 that the unit had dropped off a tail gate..
I could hear the crew talk on it in my head..
"you got it??? yea I got it... opps... that was my toe!!"
lol!

I saw them drop gen boxes off a fork at menards..
the plastic wrap gave way as the kid was going way too fast around a corner with the fork truck inside!!

something about circus and monkeys came to mind!
GRIN!!
for those living in a bubble..
and need a good chuckel.
"not my circus,,,, not my monkeys!"
they even have the shirts and coffee mugs on ebay and amazon for those!

I used to give those away to other contractors...
it always got a big laugh!

any way glad you found parts bad!


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## Sparky2021 (Dec 3, 2020)

Paul, this generator was not damaged by a fall. I have had it for a few years and when I put it in place to power our christmas outdoor decorations I started it up and it ran find. I shut it down and a day later when I had all the decorations ready to plug in I started it up and it went full throttle and that's how this all got started plus, cost me for a new generator to power the stuff over the holidays. 
Thanks a ton for your insight and help. Want to rent a inspection camera or generator?


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## Sparky2021 (Dec 3, 2020)

Here is a photo of what was left of the governor inside the crankcase. There were some smaller bits but I didn't bother picking them up. I flushed the crankcase yesterday and it should be dry today. I will be getting a can of brakecleen and gasket seal today. Tomorrow the new governor will arrive but mail comes late sometimes, so it may be sunday before I get the engine and generator back together and running.


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## Sparky2021 (Dec 3, 2020)

I hate to keep bothering you guys and I hope this will be the last information I need. 
I need the torque specs for my 7hp generator engine. Specifically, the crankcase bolts and bolt that secures the generator coil to the engine shaft. I have looked and can't find the specs anywhere. All I know is the engine is a 7hp engine and had the logo of ETQ on the starter housing. It stands for Eastern Tool Equipment.


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## Sparky2021 (Dec 3, 2020)

Well, I said I was hoping I wouldn't have to come back here again but I don't want to mess something up, so I am asking the experts: I got the new governor kit and along with the governor wheel, washer and plastic shaft cover was a new shaft with retaining ring installed on it. I can only assume that I am supposed to remove the old shaft and replace with the new one, however, I can't get the old shaft to come out. I have not broke out the TNT or plastic explosive YET but I did grab it with channel locks and it would not budge. I assume again, that it is pressure set into the crankcase. Once I get this little issue corrected I think things will be smooth sailing to get the generator up and running again.


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## tabora (Sep 6, 2018)

Sparky2021 said:


> I need the torque specs for my 7hp generator engine.


Since it's apparently a Chonda, here are the Honda GX torque specs...


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## Sparky2021 (Dec 3, 2020)

Guys, we have lift-off! I finished reassembly of the generator this morning, hooked up all the wires I disconnected, put oil in the crankcase, turned the fuel **** on, moved choke to fully closed, turned the run switch on and pulled the starter rope about 4 times. It fired up and when the choke was moved to off it settled down and ran like it was new!!!!l
Thanks to everyone for your suggestions and help. I could not have done it without you.


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