# Best propane conversion kit



## Wilber256 (Sep 20, 2017)

Hello everyone,

Thanks for having me in your group I am glad to be here. 
I have a few questions please. First l have a 2013 Troy Bilt 8250/6000, model 030475 with B&S 1650 engine series, model 21T202, type 0121G1. I have more gen set data if needed. I had a 320 gal propane tank installed to heat my home and would like to add the gen with a tri fuel conversion kit while I pipe in my house, it's between the house and the tank, about 25 ft from the tank. The house is another 125-130ft from the gen set. With all this said my propane supplier wants to use high pressure all the way to the house, so that will either require he set a high to low pressure regulator at the gen or I need to purchase a high pressure kit.

I will tee off at the gen then onward to the house where he will install a low pressure reg there then everything downstream from there will be low pressure (heat, water heater etc). If I choose a low pressure kit at the gen then that will mean two reugulators at the gen set, his high to low pressure one and the reg included in the kit. That also means I will be purchasing 3 regulators, or 4 if including the kit one. One at the tank, one at the gen set and one at the house. I just can't see the reason for two regulators at the gen set. I will use 3/4 " pipe all the way. I wanted to use 1" to the gen set then reduce to 3/4 for the rest of the way. But he insisted that 3/4 pipe with high pressure would handle it with no problem.

I don't trust this guy, he does not believe a gasoline gen can be converted to propane so I am sort of on my own on this.
Now to the questions if anyone is still awake.

1. I plan to use the high pressure kit unless someone convinces me otherwise, So
What is the best propane conversion kit to convert/adapt from gasoline to propane? High and low pressure and why.
2. Being propane runs hotter than gasoline, would it be a good idea to have a fan running on the gen while in use or is it a waste 
of time, money and energy the fan will consume?
3. The gen set house is made of 100% non burning materials it will be semi open on all 4 sides just enough walls to keep it out of 
the weather. I plan to use a gen-turi for exhaust and will penetrate the metal roof and stand it above the roof about 6 ft with a elbow pointed away from the house. Will this make it safe enough to install regulator(s) under the same roof as the gen? 
4. Can I combine the two 120 volt twenty amp receptacles and the one 240 volt 20 amp recpt and the one 240 volt 30 amp recpt into a two wire 240 volt and neutral and feed a 240 volt 60 amp panel( two 120v legs, one neutral led) and use the 60 amp panel as a transfer panel between utility and generator? This will eliminate all the wires from the gen set to the panel at the house.
Thats probably enough questions for this post. Any and all comments, suggestions, recommendations etc is greatly appreciated.
Thanks


----------



## KRE (Nov 29, 2011)

Best way is POL tee at the tank. Tank to home run does require a first stage at the tank an a second stage at the home unless you want to install all new an a much larger service line do to line distance. At the POL tee one outlet will be for the home an the other will be for a two stage reg (tank pressure to 7-12" water column) then run that service line to gen. Make sure to do a proper install with shutoff valves installed. As well as correct line recommended for your soil. Make sure to perp the engine per mfgs specs for propane if any. Some engines (not all) require a timing change depending your local BTU content. Most mfgs supply this info in the owners manual if a change is required. (Most all Natural gas units require this change)
These guys do a good job,
https://www.propanecarbs.com/briggs_stratton.html

No fan is required unless you enclose the unit. 

Do not combine the gen-set electrical outlets, lug into the main stator wires with a protection device/s an run the 4 wire feeds to your panel.

Hope this helps,
Kenneth


----------



## Wilber256 (Sep 20, 2017)

Thanks KRE, So what you are saying is to do a tee at the tank, one line to gen one line to house. Low pressure to gen, high pressure to house, is that right?
I don't intend to enclose the gen building, just enough to prevent water from blowing in on the gen. 
So my thoughts on running a 1-1/4 pipe with 2 #3 hot legs and 1 #3 neutral to my 6 circuit 60 amp panel is not so good. I really have no use for the 240 volt circuits I just want to keep 2 refrigerators, tv a few lights etc maybe a 120 v space heater in the bathroom. That's about it.
Yes cutoff valves will be where they should be, all I am doing is digging the trench, lay the pipe and propane service man does the other.


----------



## Wilber256 (Sep 20, 2017)

I do have the #3 THHN wire and pvc conduit on hand.


----------



## KRE (Nov 29, 2011)

Wilber256 said:


> Thanks KRE, So what you are saying is to do a tee at the tank, one line to gen one line to house. Low pressure to gen, high pressure to house, is that right?
> I don't intend to enclose the gen building, just enough to prevent water from blowing in on the gen.
> So my thoughts on running a 1-1/4 pipe with 2 #3 hot legs and 1 #3 neutral to my 6 circuit 60 amp panel is not so good. I really have no use for the 240 volt circuits I just want to keep 2 refrigerators, tv a few lights etc maybe a 120 v space heater in the bathroom. That's about it.
> Yes cutoff valves will be where they should be, all I am doing is digging the trench, lay the pipe and propane service man does the other.


Yes or you could tee off just after the first stage reg you now have at the tank an install a second stage at the gen, either way will work. An depending the LP kit you buy one may save more money over the other.

# 3 is over kill for your application, but if you already have it that's good, just make sure you have a overload protection device at the generator, an you should be good.

If only running three wires ( 2 hots an a neutral) make sure the neutral is bonded to the frame ground, most small units are but make sure it's that way on yours. Also make sure you do not over load either 120Vac leg, balance them out with.


----------



## Wilber256 (Sep 20, 2017)

KRE, 
According to the manual the neutral is bonded to the frame. But this all may be in vain anyway.

Fuel must meet these requirements:
• Clean, fresh, unleaded gasoline.
• A minimum of 87 octane/87 AKI (91 RON). For high
altitude use, see High Altitude.
• Gasoline with up to 10% ethanol (gasohol) is acceptable.
NOTICE Use of unapproved fuels could damage generator
and voids warranty.

Sounds if they are not recommending LP/propane/natural gas I wonder why? I am going to try it anyway, I guess if these could not handle propane etc. it would be posted all over the Internet. I have not see anything along the sorts but I have not actually researched it.

If I go the route you last spoke of that will still require two regulators for the gen, right? The only way I can see to avoid the two is to run high pressure to the gen and use a high pressure kit. Right?
Thanks for all your help. I noticed you are in NE Alabama, I am in NE Mississippi (Tupelo area) I used to live in Muscle Shoals until getting out of HS in 1972


----------



## KRE (Nov 29, 2011)

Wilber256 said:


> KRE,
> According to the manual the neutral is bonded to the frame. But this all may be in vain anyway.
> 
> Fuel must meet these requirements:
> ...


The kit you buy will say which pressure is required, ie
First stage reg = tank pressure input to 10 psi output
Second stage = 10 psi input to 7-12" water column output
2 stage = tank pressure input to 7-12" water column output.
Distance between tank an device dictates which system is cheaper do to piping requirements/distance 
The engine HP will drop 10-12% when running on LP vs gasoline, an on Natural gas it will drop 14-18% vs gasoline
Most of the time on LP you will not have to change the engine timing, but that is not the case if you switch to NG vs gasoline on the bulk of high-speed/2 pole units (3600rpm) 

My primary automatic gen-set is a 25KW (LP) that is powered by a 2.3liter ford that turns at 1800rpm. It's primary fuel is Natural gas, with two 250 gallon LP tanks as backup. ( I require a on site fuel supply). With a flip of a switch it changes to LP encase the natural fails for any reason. A timing change is not required on mine as the piston speed is not fast enough to make a big difference under full load between the two fuels, where 2-4 KW more at the flywheel is required.

Any resip (piston engine) will run just fine on propane (LP) but will not give you the same HP as gasoline. MFG's are in a KW/wattage vs dollars race, an do a poor job at educating their customer base. This is a rope start gen-set industry issue, always has been, but remember in confusion there is opportunity, an opportunity = dollars spend do to lack of education.


----------



## Wilber256 (Sep 20, 2017)

Thanks KRE,

I want to be able to continue to use gasoline in the rare case it is needed. From what I gather at the site you suggested the only way to do that is to get a high pressure tri fuel kit (please check behind me if you would and have time please) in fact being that you have forgotten more than I know on the subject I would appreciate it if you would tell me the best kit to purchase to allow me to run gasoline and propane.

The chances of me every having natural to deal with are 0-1% we are in the country and don't have natural anywhere in site. So you can scratch off natural in the formula. I was just trying to save the purchase of the additional regulator. I will purchase whatever you recommend if the propane guy agrees. After you make the decision I will have the propane company service guy back out and get his input. If he sees no problem then I will purchase what ever you recommend. I appreciate you doing this for me, otherwise we have the blind leading the blind.
Thanks 
Glenn Stanford


----------



## KRE (Nov 29, 2011)

If I were doing it, I would pull the gasoline carburetor off, store it, an install the proper LP mixer an be done with it. I do not like compromise parts as you never get full value/performance from same, no matter the application/task . On small gen-sets this is well worth the money in my book, when you get to 50 KW an up, not so much. 
The advantage of a LP/propane engine vs gasoline is maintenance costs drop like a rock, an life cycle increases substantially. That said fuel costs increase slightly unless your a farmer, then that cost drops like a rock as well.


----------

