# Honda EU2000i no spark



## Efuddpucker

I have a EU2000i Honda Generator. I have no spark and have downloaded the service manual and followed the troubleshooting procedure and documented all test results. 3items failed which was the Ignition Pulse Generator showed correct ohms but no mV output (3-4 mV DC). The Exciter resistance was slightly above at .8 ohms (normal .2-.3 ohms). The ignition coil primary resistance 1.7 (normal .7-1.1 ohms). Any idea what needs replacement?


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## Melson

I'm not certain but model may have a low oil shutdown circuit. If so, I believe it disables the ignition by grounding the ignition primary.
Have you checked on that?


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## iowagold

Efuddpucker said:


> I have a EU2000i Honda Generator. I have no spark and have downloaded the service manual and followed the troubleshooting procedure and documented all test results. 3items failed which was the Ignition Pulse Generator showed correct ohms but no mV output (3-4 mV DC). The Exciter resistance was slightly above at .8 ohms (normal .2-.3 ohms). The ignition coil primary resistance 1.7 (normal .7-1.1 ohms). Any idea what needs replacement?


what is your vin number on the eu2000i?
they had an issue with spark caps on the later units (last production)
i have that recall sheet on the honda generator forum.
pm me for an invite.


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## Efuddpucker

Melson said:


> I'm not certain but model may have a low oil shutdown circuit. If so, I believe it disables the ignition by grounding the ignition primary.
> Have you checked on that?


Checked low oil switch and no continuity which means oil level adequate. Thanks


iowagold said:


> what is your vin number on the eu2000i?
> they had an issue with spark caps on the later units (last production)
> i have that recall sheet on the honda generator forum.
> pm me for an invite.


Serial number: EACT 1305587 (it was manufactured in a different country then most generators) Wondering if IPG may not have the right gap since the resistance is ok, but no millivolts detected. Hate to start taring too many things apart if I could get a better idea from my diagnosis. Followed the guild in the Honda service manual, not the owners manual. It said to contact Honda technical service for help with the review of my troubleshooting worksheet, but unsuccessful getting a hold of Honda.


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## Efuddpucker

Melson said:


> I'm not certain but model may have a low oil shutdown circuit. If so, I believe it disables the ignition by grounding the ignition primary.
> Have you checked on that?


Checked for low oil, but have no continuity so low oil and switch are ok.


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## iowagold

there were issues on the engine shut off switch sticking on some of these.
unplug the switch and see if you get spark.


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## iowagold

just walk down the check list in the service manual.


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## iowagold

you can have a bad stator or rotor on this..
super rare but i have seen them.
the rotor is the flywheel assy with the magnets.
make sure you count the magnets too!!
and the stator is the coil setup.
it can have bad solder on the stator as well.
or a flashed over coil that has been over heated.

pull the starter assy loose and spin the rotor with an drill and measure the voltage on all of the coils
yea you have to shuck it down to the engine..
take your time and bag and mark your parts.


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## iowagold

Efuddpucker said:


> I have a EU2000i Honda Generator. I have no spark and have downloaded the service manual and followed the troubleshooting procedure and documented all test results. 3items failed which was the Ignition Pulse Generator showed correct ohms but no mV output (3-4 mV DC). The Exciter resistance was slightly above at .8 ohms (normal .2-.3 ohms). The ignition coil primary resistance 1.7 (normal .7-1.1 ohms). Any idea what needs replacement?


are you using a good fluke meter??
check the zero on the test leads and you need a super good meter to check the low resistance...
super critical on the decimal ohms...

a .8 ohms makes me think a hot spot in the stator winding...
or a bad solder connection.

change your meter to a expensive meter or re calibrate the leads and re test..

i think you are looking at an new stator and a rotor...
good to replace them as a set...
that way they are both the latest up dated versions.


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## drmerdp

So you completed every test starting on page 21 in the shop manual? 

I also recommend a HIGH quality meter for testing. Mediocre diagnostic tools will often have you chasing your tail.


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## Efuddpucker

iowagold said:


> there were issues on the engine shut off switch sticking on some of these.
> unplug the switch and see if you get spark.





iowagold said:


> are you using a good fluke meter??
> check the zero on the test leads and you need a super good meter to check the low resistance...
> super critical on the decimal ohms...
> 
> a .8 ohms makes me think a hot spot in the stator winding...
> or a bad solder connection.
> 
> change your meter to a expensive meter or re calibrate the leads and re test..
> 
> i think you are looking at an new stator and a rotor...
> good to replace them as a set...
> that way they are both the latest up dated versions.


Thanks for your help. The meter is not quite a Fluke, but a true RMS Klein mm2000. Should be fairly good.
I did not want to tear everything apart on the generator if someone had a good idea, but my next step is going into the unit further. I followed the Honda service guide starting on page 21 and going through page 24 of the ignition system section. My voltage reading when pulling the starting cord for the Exciter voltage is about 3.6 volts and the range is suppose to be 4-5 volts The exciter ohm reading is .8 when it is suppose to be .2-.3 ohms. The ignition coil primary resistance is suppose to be .7-1.1 ohms and my reading was 1.7 ohms. They are a little off, but close. All the other steps on the trouble shooting worksheet passed. My main concern is that I get 0 millivolts on the ignition pulse generator main terminal. The resistance reading for the ipg is within range. Does it seem logical that the ipg is ok, but the gap between the ipg and the rotor is too great? The generator is about 3 to 4 years old and probably has less than 20 hours on it.


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## iowagold

yea that meter should be ok.
check the meter for zero when in ohms with both probes together. make sure it is zero ohms.
if it is not then follow the instructions for that meter to zero the scale.

I am suspecting the magnetism in the rotor... rare issue for the permanent magnets to be weak.
but to check them right the rotor needs to be removed from the generator crank shaft.

there is a bump on the outside of the flywheel for the IPG magnet air gap.

if the generator was case off you can remove the starter pull rope assy as well as the spark plug and use a socket adapter and proper socket in a cordless drill to spin the generator and measure all of the test points at a higher rpm...

and at that point of tear down you can see the air gap in the IPG and check it for gap.
hard to tell if the mounting tab broke off on the IPG unless you are able to see inside the generator pull rope cover.

check the meter zero first.. if it is not perfect zero re calibrate the meter then check the readings again.

from there tear down the generator with covers off for a visual inspection.


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## Efuddpucker

iowagold said:


> yea that meter should be ok.
> check the meter for zero when in ohms with both probes together. make sure it is zero ohms.
> if it is not then follow the instructions for that meter to zero the scale.
> 
> I am suspecting the magnetism in the rotor... rare issue for the permanent magnets to be weak.
> but to check them right the rotor needs to be removed from the generator crank shaft.
> 
> there is a bump on the outside of the flywheel for the IPG magnet air gap.
> 
> if the generator was case off you can remove the starter pull rope assy as well as the spark plug and use a socket adapter and proper socket in a cordless drill to spin the generator and measure all of the test points at a higher rpm...
> 
> and at that point of tear down you can see the air gap in the IPG and check it for gap.
> hard to tell if the mounting tab broke off on the IPG unless you are able to see inside the generator pull rope cover.
> 
> check the meter zero first.. if it is not perfect zero re calibrate the meter then check the readings again.
> 
> from there tear down the generator with covers off for a visual inspection.


Thanks. I will work on what you recommend. The meter does zero out. I will let you know what I find out of all this.


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## iowagold

darn i was wishing for a bad v/o meter..
yea time to shuck off the case and remove the pull start assy.
check things real close, and if it is your first time with a honda make sure you use the right size screwdrivers on the iso Phillips heads.. they are iso #3 and ISO #2 it is the japan size.
i always use new bits so they will not cam out..
and use never seize on those bolts when i go back together on the case.

you have one chance on the screw removal the first time... and yes it is normal for them to sound like you broke the tip!! 
lol!! they are just that tight!
story time:
I had an internet customer send me a honda 2000i 6 months back with rounded heads..
3000 hours on the generator. but it looked real good and clean on the case.
I had to drill the bolt heads.. and remove the studs left and they came right out.
but it went back together ok with new honda bolts.
the real repair was a pull rope issue so an easy repair.
the down fall of it is the shipping.. 65 bucks each way..
and drain all of the oil and gas out to total dry.


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## iowagold

oh yea let me know if you need links for the ISO philips drivers and bits.


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## Efuddpucker

iowagold said:


> oh yea let me know if you need links for the ISO philips drivers and bits.


Anyway to test the rotor to make sure it is bad?


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## iowagold

there is a test on the rotor ... but you need a magnet tester for Gauss. expensive lab gear.
lol yea I have one! lol it was $5k back in the day.
if you replace the stator i replace the rotor at the same time on the eu gens.
click here for the poust usa site there is a link for parts fish on the lower part of that page with a discount code
they are real good on the parts costs and the diagrams for the eu gen sets.


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## drmerdp

@Efuddpucker, is this the version of the manual you downloaded? https://halcyontimes.files.wordpress.com/2012/10/eu2000i-repair-manual.pdf

The ignition system diagnosis section starts on page 21, the worksheet for filling in your measurements is on page 24. 

Did you follow this flow chart start to finish? (including disconnecting the stop switch) If you post a pic of the filled in worksheet that might help organize your measurements and help shed some light on the issue.


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## Efuddpucker

iowagold said:


> there is a test on the rotor ... but you need a magnet tester for Gauss. expensive lab gear.
> lol yea I have one! lol it was $5k back in the day.
> if you replace the stator i replace the rotor at the same time on the eu gens.
> click here for the poust usa site there is a link for parts fish on the lower part of that page with a discount code
> they are real good on the parts costs and the diagrams for the eu gen sets.


I screwed up and am starting over again on my diagnostics. My meter was off and I put in new batteries and recalibrated it. I also borrowed a fluke meter just to make sure and compare. The Klein and the Fluke are between one and two tenths ohms off even after calibration. I think all by resistance readings (haven't checked it yet) will probably come in range. The voltage on the IPG will still be out of range and so will the stator (exciter) voltage. If this is the case, I am thinking the ICM would be the issue. You have been super and appreciate all your help.


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## Efuddpucker

drmerdp said:


> @Efuddpucker, is this the version of the manual you downloaded? https://halcyontimes.files.wordpress.com/2012/10/eu2000i-repair-manual.pdf
> 
> The ignition system diagnosis section starts on page 21, the worksheet for filling in your measurements is on page 24.
> 
> Did you follow this flow chart start to finish? (including disconnecting the stop switch) If you post a pic of the filled in worksheet that might help organize your measurements and help shed some light on the issue.


I followed the procedure in the service manual and filled out the worksheet. I also checked the IPG distance and it came in range at .024 in. There is also a check on page 53 and some additional checks for the stator further on back in the manual. If all my resistance checks are within range and not the voltage test, I am assuming it is the ICM. Had no spark problems on my Honda 300 Fourtrax and it turned out to be the ICM. Any thoughts?


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## iowagold

are you taking the spark module?


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## iowagold

doh! on the meter battery!!
lol!!
been there!
I have 9 flukes now in the shop.
I use the lithium battery's now as they last a long time!! and are worth the extra cost for when things go wrong and you are in a hurry!


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## iowagold

try this video
youtube no spark eu2000i step by step


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## Efuddpucker

Retested and all resistances are in limit. Voltages are still off. I am now thinking the spark unit part number 30400-z39-c91. The stator dropped to .3 ohms with the Fluke. Fluke read .4 ohms, but when I zero out the meter the Fluke read .1 ohm when leads are held together for full continuity. I have a Honda 300 Fourtrax and had no spark until I traded out the spark module. I never found a good way to test the module.


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## iowagold

yea darn sealed magic box stuff..
kinda like the inverter unit...
not serviceable. 
just replace.
I thought on the honda eu1000i I had a bad spark unit or inverter...
ended up the real issue was the rotor with missing magnets!!
cool find!!
I replaced the spark unit (130 bucks) before I did the tear down...
it was what the honda service manual said to do...
they still do not have in the manuals for the eu series to check and inspect the rotor magnets...

I had an eu3000i with a bad rotor 2 years back... I replaced it with new and it worked!
and sent the bad one in to honda!!
they sent a replacement for free.
they are pretty good about warranty issues.


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## Efuddpucker

iowagold said:


> yea darn sealed magic box stuff..
> kinda like the inverter unit...
> not serviceable.
> just replace.
> I thought on the honda eu1000i I had a bad spark unit or inverter...
> ended up the real issue was the rotor with missing magnets!!
> cool find!!
> I replaced the spark unit (130 bucks) before I did the tear down...
> it was what the honda service manual said to do...
> they still do not have in the manuals for the eu series to check and inspect the rotor magnets...
> 
> I had an eu3000i with a bad rotor 2 years back... I replaced it with new and it worked!
> and sent the bad one in to honda!!
> they sent a replacement for free.
> they are pretty good about warranty issues.


I had my unit tore down to be ready to pull the rotor, but put it back together after rechecking resistance. I found a new genuine Honda module with shipping and and tax for under $40. I am needing the my generator in two weeks so ordered the module since it is easy to change. Unfortunately by unit is no longer under warranty , even though it has under 20 hours of run time. I will let you know if the spark unit change works, if not I am back to taking it apart again.


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## Efuddpucker

iowagold said:


> try this video
> youtube no spark eu2000i step by step


Been there, done that.


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## iowagold

lol on the been there!
keep in touch on the new module.
wow who had them for that price?


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## Efuddpucker

iowagold said:


> lol on the been there!
> keep in touch on the new module.
> wow who had them for that price?


Walmart online. Several others had prices in that rage, but Walmart online was the fastest.


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## iowagold

wow they sure went down in price!!
parts fish has them for 36.56 with out any discounts.
Honda Power Equipment 30400-Z39-C91 - SPARK UNIT : PartsFish.com


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## drmerdp

For $40 its worth a shot with the ignition module. 

Seriously...under 20 hours? There must be something a foot here. Have you owned it since new? Was it stored somewhere where it got wet?


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## iowagold

yea it will be a good one for sure when he finds it!
i would have though maybe the oil sensor or the on off switch as bad or stuck off.
hey you did check that too E?


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## iowagold

you can unplug the off switch on the side door it is in the harness lower right
2 wire plug


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## iowagold

check that switch with an ohm meter turn the fuel selector


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## iowagold

the switches are like 5 bucks


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## Efuddpucker

drmerdp said:


> For $40 its worth a shot with the ignition module.
> 
> Seriously...under 20 hours? There must be something a foot here. Have you owned it since new? Was it stored somewhere where it got wet?


Bought it new and bought the duel generator package and keep it in my trailer so it is pretty dry. I use the other unit more since it starts easier. Trying to get unit in tip top shape. Most of the time I run the units above 7000' elevation and obviously in remote areas where there is no hook-ups. FYI I bought a Trojan battery for my trailer, a little pricey but will pay for itself. To charge the battery, I will run a smart charger directly off the generator and the charger will start will high amps and work its way down to a float mode. Great set up for remote areas areas of the mountains. No KOA!


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## iowagold

cool EF!
are you using the high alt jet at the above 7k?
so far they are still working on the efi for the 2200i and the 3000i series of gens.
it takes a battery.. but with the new tech out for smaller battery's there is room in a small gen case.

that is one of the best things about an eu7000is is the injection adjusting to any temperature and any altitude.
it is a real lamda style fuel injection.

but for what camping you do it just is way too large of gen set.

those trojan battery's are the best in class. heavy but real good.
yea as long as you use the smart charger on them like you are they are a 10 year battery.
just be sure to check the water every month and use distilled water only to refill the water.

we have a couple of trojan battery's that are at year 15 and still test good no kidding.
but they are on a large solar array inside a temp controlled shack.
we went the thermal sensor style charge controller.
and it has de sulfate cycle too.

just a note the Lead acid batteries do not like below 58 deg F.
or above 90 deg f
they just do not charge right in lower or higher temps outside.
we keep most of the battery shacks at 64 to 68 deg f.


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## Efuddpucker

I am changing out the jet now for the higher altitude. I am wondering if someone did it where I bought it since looking through the orifice, it looks like the same size. Did not see a stamp on the jet, but looking in the light, they look the same. Doesn't matter since I installed the new jet.
I can't control the environment as well as you do for your battery, but when I am up elk hunting I am at the mercy of what ever Mother Nature dishes out. If I get 7 to 10 years out of the battery, I would turn cartwheels. I bought a smart charger from West Marine that can go up to 40amps. It has a reconditioning cycle which I understand you should use once in a while, but I heard an excessive use of that cycle can ultimately lower your battery life. If I get my generator purring, life will be and I can head for the hills where the temperature is pretty much in the 70's. 
One other thing is calibrating a digital fluke meter. You hold the high/low button and then go to the ohms setting. I get it calibrated to about .1ohm when I short the leads for a continuity check. I then subtract the .1 ohm from my reading. Is there a better way to calibrate?


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## iowagold

what is the model of the fluke meter?


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## iowagold

oh what brand and model on the new charger too.


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## Efuddpucker

It is listed as West Marine and sold by them. You will have to go to their web site. I think they might be discontinuing the model I bought. They use to be about a $150.00 and are selling them for $99.00. They start out at a high amperage and automatically drop untill it is charged and goes into a float mode. I got the 40 amp model. Has an on screen graph. It will default out like most smart chargers if the battery is depleted. Is really a slick charger. Son has one that is four or five years old. Very portable.


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## Efuddpucker

iowagold said:


> what is the model of the fluke meter?


The Fluke is a 115 Lincoln Tech
chargerhttps://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--automatic-40a-portable-battery-charger-with-engine-start--14982060?recordNum=10:


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## iowagold

i found the calibration instructions for the 115 series fluke
click here for the fluke 115 calibration instructions
yea it is not the same as the older 8x series units.


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## iowagold

the charger looks like a good unit!


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## Efuddpucker

Finally got my spark module. I got busy doing other things, so it took a while to get back on working on my generator. The module was the culprit. It now runs as it is suppose to. I appreciate tapping all your knowledge and giving great advice. Have you ever ran iridium spark plugs before and what is your experience other than they are expensive? Again thank you and had a great time having a two way conversation.


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## iowagold

I use the iridium only when running on LP or natural gas.
the fine point works better on those two fuels.

if you are running regular gasoline.
just stick with the ngk standard plug.


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## Efuddpucker

I run regular gasoline without ethanol. I did clean out my carburetor when I put in the new high altitude jet. It was always hard starting since the day I bought it. It now starts on the first pull like I envisioned a Honda doing. Tried it several days now, and purrs like a kitten. Be safe!


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## iowagold

cool glad you are back up and running!
staibil is a good thing on gasoline for storage...
and seafoam is good to add at least 2 times a season during the gen runs.

if you have lp or natural gas available on your run sites they run well on the eu2000i gens.
just regap the spark plug for .020 and run the iridium if you make the conversion.
also 5-30 synthetic oil for lp and natural gas works best.

did you get a magnetic dipstick yet??
click here for the honda generator parts and accessories page


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## Efuddpucker

Did not know the magnetic dipstick was available. Good idea. I know a lot of people use Seafoam, but I have had good luck with Berryman B-12. I use it only every now and then and very sparingly. I also use it in my gasoline truck about every 6 tankfuls to keep the injectors clean. I will pick up a little better gas mileage on long trips. Also seems to make my truck a little more peppy. The spray is very good for lawnmowers or any gas engines that does not want to start. Using just a little in the tank not only helps engines start easier, they run smoother too.


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## Mobilesport

Yeh , but how do I go about figuring out if I have spark or not ??
The valve cover is aluminum and doesn't conduct electricity ?
I can't touch the spark plug to a aluminum valve cover .
Where do I touch the spark plug to ??
I'm trying to figure out if I'm getting spark .


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## tabora

Mobilesport said:


> The valve cover is aluminum and doesn't conduct electricity?


Actually, aluminum conducts electricity very well; that's why much of the wiring infrastructure is aluminum rather than copper, since it's cheaper. Any metal part of the engine that is not painted and is not isolated/insulated should suffice.


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## Efuddpucker

Almost all the wiring from you local electric company is aluminum. You can buy a spark indicator from Harbor freight or online for around $5.00 if you don't want to ground your spark plugs.


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## iowagold

Efuddpucker said:


> Did not know the magnetic dipstick was available. Good idea. I know a lot of people use Seafoam, but I have had good luck with Berryman B-12. I use it only every now and then and very sparingly. I also use it in my gasoline truck about every 6 tankfuls to keep the injectors clean. I will pick up a little better gas mileage on long trips. Also seems to make my truck a little more peppy. The spray is very good for lawnmowers or any gas engines that does not want to start. Using just a little in the tank not only helps engines start easier, they run smoother too.


yea the magnetic dip sticks work!
and if you clean the dip stick every time you check the oil
it helps make the oil last longer..
as well as keep the trash out of the open bearings on the crank...

berryman makes real good solvents!!
i like the carb cleaner dip they have for an after ultrasonic clean on these little carbs..
it helps to seal back up the aluminum for less corrosion.
click here for the ultrasonic page
that link has good info on the ultrasonic units.


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