# EU2200 service manual?



## Ground Fault (Jun 9, 2020)

I searched for a link to the EU2200 service manual but came up empty-handed. Is there a link to it? I put five hours on mine using propane. I changed the oil every hour as it is only .46 quarts. There was some substantial klag on the magnetic dipstick the first and second hours. After draining I put the quart take-out type container on a 3-ich round magnet overnight after each drain to draw the iron to the bottom. I was surprised how much settled there, including some rather large shiny pieces. Someone panning for gold would have continued panning with that yield. Oddly, only large pieces in the second hour though.
My first generator experience with propane. I am blessed: mine started the first time on the second pull, first pull since then. Only need to pull it about a foot and a half and it starts. _It is so nice _knowing it is sitting out there and I don't have to drain the gas out of it and drain the carb, and not having trepidation of it not starting in the future. I have been draining gas and worrying since 1985 on my other ones. Old dog learns new trick.

I lucked out in finding a real suitable way to vary rpms constantly, automatically and unsupervised those first five hours. No load the first hour. Then continuing, I had one of these 500W mini space heaters we use to supplement in the kitchen on cold mornings. Amazon.com: Mini Space Heater with Adjustable Timer Digital Display, Plug in Heater Electric Heater for Home and Office Ceramic Small Heater with Thermostat, 500W: Home & Kitchen I put it on a short extension cord to keep a small load on it constantly. Then I put this heater on a low setting that cycled the heating element on and off about every minute or so and that caused a steady rise and fall of rpms for optimal break-in. Amazon.com: ISILER Space Heater, 1500W Portable Indoor Heater, Ceramic Space Heater Adjustable Thermostat Tip-Over Overheat Protection, Hot Cool Fan Electric Heater for Home Office Garage with ETL Certified: Home & Kitchen. Just got lucky this time. Even a blind hog...


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## McCorby (Apr 26, 2021)

Just for future reference, the first hour at no load is not the best approach. You want to vary the load right from the start. The reason being is that you want to “seat” the compression ring as soon as possible and avoid glazing the cylinder to ensure the rings seal properly. This is accomplished by combustion pressure that is generated under load. At no load, adequate pressure on the rings is not achieved to accomplish this. A good break-in procedure thermal cycles the engine components. This is also very important! That is why you constantly vary the engine speed and load.

I posted this generic break-in procedure not too long ago:

0 - .5 hours: Do not use eco mode. Randomly vary the load between no-load and 25% of rated continuous load.
.5 - 1 hour: Randomly turn eco mode on and off to vary engine speed. Randomly vary the load between no-load and 50% of rated continuous load. Only run at 50% load for no more than 30 seconds at a time.
1 - 1.5 hours: Randomly turn eco mode on and off. Randomly vary the load between no-load and 75% of rated continuous load. Only run at 75% load for no more than 30 - 60 seconds at a time.
1.5 - 2 hours: (or up to 6 hours of if it makes you feel more comfortable!) Randomly turn eco mode on and off to vary engine speed. Randomly vary the load between no-load and rated continuous load. Only run at rated continuous load for no more than 30 - 60 seconds at a time.
After breaking in.......run it like you stole it! 😜

Hope this helps!


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## Ground Fault (Jun 9, 2020)

Thanks! From where is this break-in procedure sourced?


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## McCorby (Apr 26, 2021)

Ground Fault said:


> Thanks! From where is this break-in procedure sourced?


It’s nothing proprietary. I just typed it up from my 30 years of experience in small engine development and testing. It’s similar to a break-in cycle that would be performed on an engine dynamometer. That’s the beauty of a generator…..it has its own built in Dyno!


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## Ground Fault (Jun 9, 2020)

Yep, I BELIEVE in extended, detailed break-in procedure like yours. 

Still need a shop manual for the EU2200.


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

Personally I feel varying load is less critical. Non synthetic oil, and at least 1/2 or more of the generators rated load for 7 hours is the sweet spot. Break in simplified.
Just my approach.


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## Dutchy491 (Sep 18, 2019)

I used a 1500 watt heater that cycled on and off every 5 minutes or so for the first couple of hours. Switched them to synthetic oil after the Honda Oil quart was changed. I’ve done this on both of my generators. They work good, run great and don’t use Oil, even though one is over 20 years old. Dutchy


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## Ground Fault (Jun 9, 2020)

I used Quaker State dino 10W30, will continue to run it until about ten hours. Then make the switch to syn. I have extensive experience in breaking things in the wrong way. I use to run Redline's synthetic 2-stroke Karting oil in my shifterkart's CR125. Problem was, it was so good that you almost could not get the ring to seat running it, and the only break-in I attempted using it took _forever_. I only did it once. For break-in after than I went back to plain old bean oil. With the castor it took three 20 minute break-in heat cycles (20 minute cycles AFTER water temp reached 120-degrees) on the stand constantly varying the rpms. My neighbors HATED it, even though I got as far up in my garage as the oil fumes would allow me. It's not like they make a suitable muffler FOR A 13000 RPM FULL-ON 2-stroke ROADRACE MOTO MOTOR! Then one quick trip up and down the street in it and that was the final straw: Usually security showed up, but the cops came once. Because of the high level of tune we only could chance putting an hour and a half practice and race time on a piston ring before we had to change it and break it in again. Three hours on the needle bearing and wrist pin, three on the piston. It still sits out there in the shop, with a stuck piston that I welded to the cylinder because of a rushed break-in my last trip to the 2.56 mile road course at the old NASCAR track in College Station. (Exact same track as Michigan). There are three stuck piston/cylinders out there. I only own three, or I would have stuck more...


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## Ground Fault (Jun 9, 2020)

No service manual?


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## Dutchy491 (Sep 18, 2019)

Ground Fault said:


> I used Quaker State dino 10W30, will continue to run it until about ten hours. Then make the switch to syn. I use to run Redline's synthetic 2-stroke Karting oil in my shifterkart's CR125. Problem was, it was so good that you almost could not get the ring to seat running it, and the only break-in I attempted using it took _forever_. I only did it once. For break-in after than I went back to plain old bean oil. With the castor it took three 20 minute break-in heat cycles (20 minute cycles AFTER water temp reached 120-degrees) on the stand constantly varying the rpms. My neighbors HATED it, even though I got as far up in my garage as the oil fumes would allow me. It's not like they make a suitable muffler FOR A 13000 RPM FULL-ON 2-stroke ROADRACE MOTO MOTOR! Then one quick trip up and down the street in it and that was the final straw: Usually security showed up, but the cops came once. It still sits out there in the shop, with a stuck piston that I welded to the cylinder because of a rushed break-in my last trip to the 2.56 mile road course at the old NASCAR track in College Station. (Exact same track as Michigan).
> View attachment 9710
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> View attachment 9711
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Very cool brother. Bet it was a scary ride! Dutchy


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## Ground Fault (Jun 9, 2020)

Yes, scary, but fun! The moments that you sit on the grid with 20-30 other staging karts, waiting for the flag to fall in a standing-start Formula 1-style start have been, _by a wide margin_, the most _alive_ seconds of my life. You are IN THE MOMENT. You are about to be in a rolling fight with 20-30 other drivers who are in better shape than you are and who are driving to prove that they are the next Michael Shumacher. And you know you ain't. Even still, your fangs are fully grown by turn three. Funnest organized road rage I ever participated in! The highest-tuned karts, when geared (sprockets) down to run only 100, and piloted by the lightest kart jockeys are capable of 0-100-0 in nine seconds. More physically demanding than any college swim team interval-training I ever swam. G-forces in some turns so high you can't draw a breath. This is the best illustration of what it is like:

*Pause this vid at 2:08:* 



 This is a full race Porsche 911 GT3 Cup car. About as bad a Porsche as the public can buy.


*Pause this vid at 8:32*: (this sactioning body does not do standing starts. These 50-60hp European 125cc karts are faster than our 40-52hp moto-motor North American karts. But not by much.) 




*Resume the Porsche vid, then quickly resume the kart vid above.* LET BOTH VIDS RUN AT THE SAME TIME AND COMPARE THE TWO. Watch the kart overtake and quickly walk away from the Porsche. This is the same Porsche GT3 that is raced at the 24 Hours of Daytona and the 24 Hours of Lemans. And a 125cc shifterkart dominates it. The Porsche only dominates in straight line speed on the straights. Everywhere else the kart dominates the Porsche. MUCH HIGHER cornering speeds in the kart than in the Porsche. (More fun to drive too!)

Sidenote: The 250cc karts run over 140mph on this track, and turn laps eleven seconds quicker than this kart.


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## FlyFisher (Jun 30, 2018)

Ground Fault said:


> No service manual?


All the manuals I can find are listed here:





Log In







hondagenerator.groups.io





There is no shop/service manual listed for the EU2200i. I would be curious on getting one myself as I have one too.

There is a service manual (shop manual) for the EU2000i (older precursor to the EU2200i) listed in another group:





Log In







hondagenerator.groups.io


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## Ground Fault (Jun 9, 2020)

I saw the EU2000 manual in another recent thread and I snagged it. The EU2200 service manual is the last piece in completing my EU2200 kit. Eventually one will surface. i will be patient.


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