# EU7000 running problem, mystery



## orionpaxx

so, cant figure this one out. my eu7000 has been running great until last week.
it's start to stumble a little and this will continue fir a few minutes until it stalls.
this unit is used daily and has thousands of hours on it. i replaced the fuel strainer/filter, plug, air filter and oil. adjusted valves which were very tight when i checked. still happening, both the fuel pump and injector were replaced about 2 years ago. it's also on it's 3rd GCU and like i said, it's got about 3 thousand hours. i have a new fuel injector on order. looking for some other thoughts on the stalling. it sounds to me like it's not getting enough fuel but, i don't know why. i also blew though the fuel line and its clear.
after stalling, it will usually start up again fine. though one time it took about 20 minutes before wanting to start.


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## tabora

orionpaxx said:


> so, cant figure this one out. my eu7000 has been running great until last week.
> ...it sounds to me like it's not getting enough fuel but, i don't know why.


1. Check to be certain that the fuel tank is venting properly.
2. Pull the O2 sensor in the exhaust (#11 - 35655-Z1C-C01 SENSOR, OXYGEN) and check it for carbon buildup. If it's gunked up, clean it and reinstall. If you have not been running the EU7000is with ECO mode turned off for 10 minutes after startup, start doing so. It takes a while to get the exhaust up to temperature.


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## orionpaxx

Thanks! I just pulled o2 and cleaned. Looked ok. The funny thing is, I’ve run this generator on eco most of the time for the last 5 years. This problem started about a week ago and about 3 weeks ago I switched eco mode off and it’s been that way since. Almost seems like it can keep up fine when eco is on but starts to act like fuel issues with eco off....


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## orionpaxx

so it just ran great for an hour on eco, as soon as i put a 2000watt load on it it stumbled for about 15 seconds and died.


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## drmerdp

Have you checked for fault codes? I can’t recall off the top of my head on how, but I have a shop manual at home.Symptomatic diagnosis can be a real crap shoot. 

Stupid question Have you check for proper fuel tank venting? I know it’s a high pressure fuel system and not gravity fed but it’s worth a shot.

Also have you checked the Spark arrester in the muffler?


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## iowagold

easy to check the fuel cap!!
just leave it loose!!
then see if it is ok then!!
also check the tank for water in the tank!!
we have had a bunch of issues with water in the fuel as of late..
are you running stabile in the fuel??
it helps with the water issues!
also run a batch of seafoam brand to help with the injection..

acts like you have a plugged screen on the fuel!!
do you have an injector tester??
they make flusher tester units where you can look at the spray..
nice to see if you have junk in the nozzle!!
let me know if you need links for those items!! 

drain the fuel tank in a clean bucket and check for water!!
and order a spare fuel cap!!
those carbon tall caps are all junk.. I replace them with the shorter caps like on the 6500!!
the gasoline seals the vent on the tall caps!!
no tsb yet on this from honda but it is on the service manual check sheet for fuel issues!!


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## drmerdp

Checking for codes.

1. Key on.
2. Press and hold the function button for 3 seconds.
3. Cycle through the code list by pressing the function button.


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## orionpaxx

thanks! so, no error code, no spark arrestor, I do not have an injector tester, but I did pull it and let it shoot into a cup, visually the spray was strong and fairly wide. I have a aftermarket gas cap. I tried running with the cap loose and had the same issue. I think I'll drain the tank and refill in case there's water. 
any thoughts on pulling the vent hose off the canister?


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## orionpaxx

just drained the tank, there was water in it. put in a few oz of stabil and fresh gas. still happening. will run fine with no load on eco, but as soon as I switch it non-eco it dies... out of ideas.


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## orionpaxx

well, on a scary note. I just realized that the hour meter says 0 for hours run... I'm feeling like that's a sure sign of GCU failure


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## drmerdp

Jees. Well it’s not a dead giveaway but likely, GCU. 

I would have thought a bad gcu would cause a no start. 

Arguably, Shutting off without displaying an error code could be indicative of a gcu failure as well.


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## iowagold

did you blow out the fuel lines as well??
could be left over water in the lines.

humm on the zero hours!!
good job on the water!!

so when it throttles up it dies???
or when it throttles down??

you might think throttle body assy
https://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/p/honda_power_equipment/16400-z1c-c01/body-assy-throttle-blh0a-a

with a few hours on it... it could be bad...

the zero hours is a puzzle!!

is the oil to the top of the thread on the oil fill??
low oil will cut out spark..

put a spark indicator inline with the spark plug.
so when it quits watch to see if you are loosing spark..

then the other thing is a bit tricky
test light on the injector wire feed to see if when it quits see if you are loosing injector pulse..

if both stay on during the shut down I would suspect the fuel pump is locking or loosing power
and yes a test light to the fuel pump power during the shut down would show poser loss to the fuel pump.

the fuel pump is a g rotor style...
the water in the tank could to have caused the pump to start to fail..
they get loud if they are worn...

just a few things to look at!!
lol if you were close I would say drop over with the gen!!
it will be a good one when you find it!!


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## orionpaxx

so, I did blow out the lines, all clear, it dies on throttle up. runs fine on ECO. the idea of the water causing pump failure is intriguing because the first time this happened 2 weeks ago was with a complete run out of fuel. so it defiantly would have sucked up a good amount of the water on it's last gasps. since that run out, it won't run again. so, it all started with an initial fuel run out. the pump appears to run fine, if I pull it slightly while the generator is running, I can see the steady stream coming from the pressure release and I get good pressure at the injector. does the pump change speed with the load? I would think the pressure is the same regardless of load and the only change is the injector speed, maybe not? I put the new injector in today and zero change, I guess next part to swap would be the pump? when it dies it certainly seems like it's cutting off the spark because it does really stumble when it shuts down it seems like the computer is detecting an issue and cutting spark, but no codes.
I've stopped the trouble shooting today because its too nasty out and I had to pick up 2 Predator generators to pick up the slack until I can get this on back on its feet.
I also pulled the throttle body off and cleaned that all up today as well. your troubleshooting is great!


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## drmerdp

You my friend officially need a shop manual. As far as fuel pump inspections go there are 2 tests. Volume and pressure. 

Volume is easy, 
-Disconnect the fuel line from the injector an place the hose into a graduated cylinder to accurately measure the amount of fuel.
-Turn key to on and press the start button. GCU activates the pump for 5 seconds then shuts off. 
-Minimum amount of fuel in that time Should be no less then 55cc (1.9oz)

If it’s less then that suspect the sock(fuel filter attached to the pump) or the pump itself. 

Pressure requires special tools. I’m not sure if the quick connect on the injector is a standardized automotive 5/16 or 3/8 connector but if it is, you can finagle a pressure gauge in line. Spec is 43psi.

The honda spec’d tool is part number #074APJ-Z37A100 which appears to have been superseded by #074APJ-Z37A101 

https://www.partspak.com/productcar...ge-Fuel-Pressure-07APJZ37A101-4550p734382.htm


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## orionpaxx

so, the volume test is perfect, I get about 2.5 oz. what i'm wondering is if that pressure is supposed to change with load. I would think not right?


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## drmerdp

orionpaxx said:


> so, the volume test is perfect, I get about 2.5 oz. what i'm wondering is if that pressure is supposed to change with load. I would think not right?


Fuel pressure is static. Spec is 43psi. 

Since your volume number came back good, I’ll go out on a limb and say your pressure is probably fine too. 

Do you have a multimeter to check resistance and continuity? Moving down the line you can check the fuel pump, injector, and throttle control motor electrically.


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## orionpaxx

fuel pump within spec 3 ohm 0-20ohm
injector is 12ohm 11-13 is spec
throttle is within spec at 70 and 70 spec is 65-75...


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## drmerdp

orionpaxx said:


> fuel pump within spec 3 ohm 0-20ohm
> injector is 12ohm 11-13 is spec
> throttle is within spec at 70 and 70 spec is 65-75...


Okay... well, how about going back to the basics before looking at the GCU. Have you installed and ran the machine with a spark tester? A bad ignition coil will produce a weak spark with low voltage. It would blow out under load and could potentially be weaker as rpms increase. 

In theory, there’s a possibility that eco on sitting at 2400rpms might be the running threshold for this condition. When you turn eco off or add a load the engine could stall. 

Ignition coil Primary side spec is 1.8 - 2.2ohm 
Secondary side spec is 5.6 - 6.9ohm

A visual of the spark with a tester can be highly effective.


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## iowagold

so have you tried the test lights yet??
or did I miss that??
test light on the injector while running to make sure the call for spray is there when it quits..
and the same for a spark tester use the inline to see if the spark is not there when it quits...

hey that is a thought!!
have you replaced the spark cap yet??
there was an tsb on the 2000i and 2200i units for bad casting on the plastic..

and a new coil assy at that may hours might be a good idea..
also check the pickup coils for the spark to make sure they are in spec...

is the speed servo motor working??
and if you change the speed or throttle angle by hand does it work??

I wish it was here!!
LOL!!
this is going to be a good one for sure when you find the smoking gun!!

do you have an extra automotive injection fuel pump around??
easy to get an inline pump and test this...
I use one of these in the shop for injection
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/atx-e8312

or you can use an fuel injection test kit
these are on the rental tool at oreilly!!
I just had them order a new one for me!! lol
after renting it every 2 weeks!!
nice for lift pump testing on diesels too!! lots of fittings and even inline too!!
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...67091/4700287?q=fuel+injection+test+kit&pos=9

and the spark test is here
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/s---g-tool-4916/tools---equipment-16488/diagnostic-16546/test---tune-17944/4887d9c7148f/s-g-tool-spark-checker/23970/4711904?q=fuel+injection+test+kit&pos=5

I still suspect the fuel pump... or servo..
or a harness issue...

rare for the computers to be bad!!
and yes there are 2 on these units!!
inverter, and the scm or spark control module that is part of the display in the front panel..
big unit!! lots of parts!! some of it is sealed like the inverter..

I have both the service manuals here.


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## iowagold

here are a few good injection test tools
pressure gauge
https://amzn.to/38eCI1i

injection pulse tool
https://amzn.to/2SrobJ6
now I have used the injection pulse tool for automotive on throttle body
as a limp home tool!!
pretty cool indeed!!
not for the at home guy...
but in a pro shop it is nice to be able to pull a car in the shop under its own power if the computer has died!

and this can prove a point on yours will it run..
and it is used for cleaning the injectors with solvent so you can activate the injector while the solvent is injected.
cool tool indeed!

I still think manual the throttle and see if it will speed up.
and put gauges on the fuel while running

meter on the fuel pump power
high voltage test light inline on spark

hey have you by passed the low oil sensor yet?
and what is your oil level?
it should the to the top of the bottom thread on the oil fill.
or just barely running out the fill lip.

low oil and run speed will trigger a shutdown for low oil.
you should get the red light during the event..
but if it is boarder line to low it will auto reset when the speed is low or engine off.

caution make sure your oil level is full before doing this below test!
there is a yellow wire on the side of the case with a bullet plug just unplug it for test only.






yea the video is a chonda. champion.
but they are the same deal on all small honda and chonda engines.
these level sensors are notorious for sticking and failing.
heck the champion gen video is on a brand new unit!! lol
that should tell you something about the reliability on these sensors.
some level sensors get gunked over time. and a good crank case clean helps to flush out the junk.
then make sure you use Castrol 10-30 oil (honda preferred oil) or any good synthetic 10-30 oil


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## orionpaxx

so, oil level is good, changed again last night to make sure it was clean and fresh. when it decides to shut down, the spark stops and the output light goes out as soon as it starts to shut down, once it decides to shut down it dies exactly as it would on a manual shut down. it seems like it sees a problem and cuts spark, no low oil light or any other problem indication. it never saves itself when it starts to go out. though it will stumble a bit before it goes out. the spark cap looks good and the coil tested fine in ohms. this unit is on its 3rd computer already, every time that went it caused a no start issue. the servo moves fine by hand and the throttle does go up to 3300rpm with eco off, sometimes it ramps up and immediately shuts down and sometimes it will hold 3300rpm for 10-30 secs with a few hiccups then die flat out. but eco will hold steady for an hour. I wish I could afford to try another GCU, the pricing on that fluctuates, was $270 last time I ordered one, now it's $370. I feel like there's some untraceable harness issue somewhere that is destroying computers on this particular unit. it's such a headache. gonna keep testing today.


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## Melson

It seems to me like a fuel related issue.
I'm not experienced with the new F. I. Honda. But from reading the posts, the way it sputters before stopping, I keep thinking 'fuel'.


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## orionpaxx

same, seems like either the pump or injector stop receiving power. I've got to rig up a test light and see.


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## iowagold

*he just stated that the spark stops...*



Melson said:


> It seems to me like a fuel related issue.
> I'm not experienced with the new F. I. Honda. But from reading the posts, the way it sputters before stopping, I keep thinking 'fuel'.


he just stated that the spark stops...
only a couple of things will do that..
the big one is the low oil sender..
easy to eliminate it!! unplug it! single yellow wire on the side of the block.

from there it is extensive testing or just part change out...
as it has not quit totally yet..
lol it is easy to find if it totally would not start, some thing would be shorted or open.

we will get more info more when he gets to check the yellow wire.


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## iowagold

*yea gen control unit 383.00 as of this am 02/08/2020*



orionpaxx said:


> so,I wish I could afford to try another GCU, the pricing on that fluctuates, was $270 last time I ordered one, now it's $370. I feel like there's some untraceable harness issue somewhere that is destroying computers on this particular unit. it's such a headache. gonna keep testing today.


yea gen control unit 383.00 as of this am 02/08/2020
https://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/p/honda_power_equipment/34110-z37-a32/control-unit-generator


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## Melson

@iowagold, I did read the OP's comment about spark. There are reasons I said "fuel", the #1 is because we're not there - we can't touchy-feely, can't discern subtle nuances, can't know for certain how testing was done. 
I guess, over several decades that I provided tech support I learned lessons about what people report, what your gut tells you and what you eventually find.
Hope that makes sense.


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## orionpaxx

I'd love it if it were fuel. still hopeful. it defiantly began with fuel... like I said, the problem began with a run out of fuel. since then it hasn't recovered. I've replaced the filter, drained and replaced fuel, found water in it. added stabilizer, ran on eco for 30 min. checked fuel pressure going to injector checked pressure and spray out of injector both were visually good and volume matched spec. replaced the injector for good measure. so, I can't see where else there could be a fuel issue. also, cleaned O2 sensor, checked low oil sensor by grounding wire to frame, that caused shut down as it should and triggered warning light. wire brushed all grounds, cleaned throttle body and checked stepper motor, removed gcu and inspected added dielectric grease to all connections and refit. inspected cap and coil per spec, tested good. 

symptoms.
generator shuts down upon load being added after a few moments
generator run OK at idle on ECO.
shut down is complete and clean when it happens, output light goes out before engine dies, no stumble.


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## tabora

Is it possible that there's an issue with the canister 17300-Z11-R30? On a car, if the charcoal canister goes bad, there would be an array of problems like power reduction, fuel odor, pinging, lower fuel economy, and flooding.


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## iowagold

tabora said:


> Is it possible that there's an issue with the canister 17300-Z11-R30? On a car, if the charcoal canister goes bad, there would be an array of problems like power reduction, fuel odor, pinging, lower fuel economy, and flooding.


loosen the fuel cap eliminated that one.
this is old school lambda fuel system on these units.
basic injection 
fuel air spark

the trick on these 7000is systems is to see what make the auto shut down trigger.

most of the time it is connectors not seated.
or corroded if it was exposed to moisture or salt water.

fuel cap is a notorious issue on these units.

he has had water in the fuel.
so rusted fuel pump rotor and high current as well as plugged fuel screen at the injector
and with the 3k hours maybe even air bleeds corked. depending on the area it was ran in.
or how clean the operation site was.

if it was here in the shop
I have test ports for the fi
and plug in lights for the test points made for the harness.

most of these basic things can be done and tested in the field
it just takes time to catch it is the act when it is not just dead.

the no code thing is a big one..
lol
the computer sets a code for if a mouse farts in figi!! lol
not sure why it is not setting any shut down codes..
unless it is a bad key switch or harness break...
add in there only when changing the eco mode..
yea this is going to be a good one!!

I wish it was here in the shop!!
hands on 1/2 an hour and I could pin it out.
takes longer to get the covers off and tank loose up on the 7000is jig.


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## orionpaxx

so, I noticed that the spark in the tester was intermittently brighter, flashing every sec or so. so, I tested the coil again and got 2.3ohm on the primary and .0ohm on the secondary.
manual spec is 1.8-2.2 on primary and about 5 on secondary.
may not be a smoking gun but, I've got a coil on order.


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## drmerdp

orionpaxx said:


> so, I noticed that the spark in the tester was intermittently brighter, flashing every sec or so. so, I tested the coil again and got 2.3ohm on the primary and .0ohm on the secondary.
> manual spec is 1.8-2.2 on primary and about 5 on secondary.
> may not be a smoking gun but, I've got a coil on order.




Fingers crossed.


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## orionpaxx

SOLVED!!! ignition coil! I just pulled a working coil from one of my champions put it in the Honda and viola! it ran perfect one eco and off and held the 1500 watt heat gun on/off on/off.... it was purring, hasn't sounded that nice in awhile. I obviously pulled it back out while I wait the Honda one... so, there ya have it! thanks guys, I hope I can offer as much troubleshooting help as you did sometime.


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## drmerdp

drmerdp said:


> Okay... well, how about going back to the basics before looking at the GCU. Have you installed and ran the machine with a spark tester? A bad ignition coil will produce a weak spark with low voltage. It would blow out under load and could potentially be weaker as rpms increase.
> 
> In theory, there’s a possibility that eco on sitting at 2400rpms might be the running threshold for this condition. When you turn eco off or add a load the engine could stall.
> 
> Ignition coil Primary side spec is 1.8 - 2.2ohm
> Secondary side spec is 5.6 - 6.9ohm
> 
> A visual of the spark with a tester can be highly effective.


Nailed it... woot


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## iowagold

*always use a spark tester!!*



orionpaxx said:


> SOLVED!!! ignition coil! I just pulled a working coil from one of my champions put it in the Honda and viola! it ran perfect one eco and off and held the 1500 watt heat gun on/off on/off.... it was purring, hasn't sounded that nice in awhile. I obviously pulled it back out while I wait the Honda one... so, there ya have it! thanks guys, I hope I can offer as much troubleshooting help as you did sometime.


always use a spark tester!!
lol
I live by them as a first things first!
yup a coil flashed over is a good one for sure.
they also had issues with the spark plug caps on the eu2000i units I have those s/n affected on the honda forum.
the spark plug caps can carbon track just like in automotive.

on all of our gen sets make sure you use good brake cleaner to keep the spark wires clean as well as the caps.:tango_face_grin:

a clean gen is a happy gen.

also make sure you drain and clean the fuel tanks every 5 to 10 years on a gen that is used all of the time (rv folks and off grid) fuel filters etc.

stabile for ethanol in the fuel, and seafoam every 6 months.

oh yea if you can avoid ethanol fuel do it! bp gold in most areas has the non ethanol gasoline.

water in the fuel has been a big thing as of late..
has stations running lower on the tanks the water settles lower and gets churned up during the fill or while pumping from the pressure bypass return to the tank.

we have also seen this on diesel fuel.
and the bio diesel bug slime is still a big thing here in the Midwest. hard to get that out of the fuel system..
and it is trashing the injection pumps and injectors.

good job on the spark issue!
"KISS
keep it simple sam!"
good words to live by for sure.


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## Melson

Sweet. Thanks for the fix details. Now it all makes sense.


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## email4eric

I read this through just for the fun and learning of it (I have a EU6500 converted to NG/Propane). I'd like to say that everyone who contributed is a stellar forum member. How wonderfully helpful and enthusiastic you all are!


Good for you and the OP! Nicely done.


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## Soya

Can anyone recommend a good spark tester?


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## iowagold

*spark tester and more*



Soya said:


> Can anyone recommend a good spark tester?


spark tester and more see this page for a listing of engine testing tools for generator repair and more
ENGINE_TEST_EQUIPMENT
there are also good meters and clamp meters for testing gen sets.


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## orionpaxx

confirmed, new coil installed today, all reassembled and purrs! I couldn't be happier, was almost ready to give up.
now, hearing it run perfect I can say that the coil must have been failing for sometime now. I would certainly recommend replacing it as part of a maintenance plan every few years.


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## iowagold

orionpaxx said:


> confirmed, new coil installed today, all reassembled and purrs! I couldn't be happier, was almost ready to give up.
> now, hearing it run perfect I can say that the coil must have been failing for sometime now. I would certainly recommend replacing it as part of a maintenance plan every few years.


ha the coil must to have cooked out?
yea I would keep one coil with cap on hand as well as pull rope, spark plug, air filters.
I also keep recoil assy's on hand at least one for each gen.
I have a good link for parts at
HONDA_GENERATOR
there is a parts coupon there you can use at check out for % off.
they are in the Omaha area for fast shipping every where in the lower 48 usa.

glad to hear you are up ok!!
yea I have a good story on a eu1000i unit!!
almost as good as this one!!
super hard to find issue on a no run.
if the gang wants to hear the story I can start a new post.


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## drmerdp

iowagold said:


> ha the coil must to have cooked out?
> yea I would keep one coil with cap on hand as well as pull rope, spark plug, air filters.
> I also keep recoil assy's on hand at least one for each gen.
> I have a good link for parts at
> HONDA_GENERATOR
> there is a parts coupon there you can use at check out for % off.
> they are in the Omaha area for fast shipping every where in the lower 48 usa.
> 
> glad to hear you are up ok!!
> yea I have a good story on a eu1000i unit!!
> almost as good as this one!!
> super hard to find issue on a no run.
> if the gang wants to hear the story I can start a new post.


Always up for a good story, I have an eu1000 also.


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## JRHill

G'Morning flolks! This is the first post on this forum. There's a wealth of info in this thread and I need it.

My EU7000is is a touch over two years old and has a bit over 1500 hrs on it. Late this summer I went over it and changed the air and fuel filters, cleaned the tank, adjusted the valves, cleaned the spark arrestor, etc. This unit is critical for us as we are 100% solar but lose sunlight for about 2.5 months in the winter and need this genset to keep the batteries charged.

Recently I started getting the E-0A error (O2 sensor) which could be caused from a myriad of things. I checked it over and nothing obvious so, what the heck, I changed the spark plug which was the original. It looked great. That seem to have solved it for two weeks until this morning. I have an autostart triggered by the inverter but the genset never made it through the 4 minute warm up and shut down with the E-0A again. I'm temped to remove the spark plug and put it back in to buy me another two weeks (wink, just kidding). Seriously, I need to find the real source before winter really sets in the the season.

I'll start with the fuel cap ajar. Then pull the O2 sensor and check that harness. The unit is pretty tight and I've never seen evidence of rodents getting into the Honda - darn critters have cost me a lot of money on other equipment over the years. I don't think its fuel delivery as when this first happened an attempt to manually restart after the shut down caused a backfire in the exhaust from fuel fumes built up. Then check the low oil sensor. I don't have any way to test the coil other than a visual of the spark plug arc. Then I'll go from there.

Thanks again for all the good info.
JRH


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## tabora

JRHill said:


> Then pull the O2 sensor and check that harness.


Pull the O2 sensor and clean it. If the EU7000is doesn't run long enough to generate full operating heat, it'll get clogged up over time.


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## JRHill

tabora said:


> Pull the O2 sensor and clean it. If the EU7000is doesn't run long enough to generate full operating heat, it'll get clogged up over time.











Well this should answer the question. It was under the cover when I went to check the Oil level switch. Cleaned and reassembled. The genset is purring away right now. Stinkers.


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## drmerdp

lol. Did it chew any wires?


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## iowagold

good one!
loose rat in the gen set!!
yea check the air temp and air pressure sensor as well
it is tied in to the lambda fuel system.
they can give a cross flag on the codes.


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## JRHill

iowagold said:


> good one!
> loose rat in the gen set!!
> yea check the air temp and air pressure sensor as well
> it is tied in to the lambda fuel system.
> they can give a cross flag on the codes.


Thanks folks. I didn't see any evidence of bites on the Oil Pressure lead but I did reseat the barrel connector. In the time since I fully broke the unit in (2nd oil change), I have left the econ mode on year around. But I set the solar inverter for four minutes for warm up in the winter and two minutes in warmer weather. This year as the winter weather rolls in the unit will shut down has the solar inverter connects. The inverter loads softly but even so the generator immediately shuts down. So there is still something going on.... This AM it loaded normally with the ECO off but the engine isn't running its normal smoothness with no load.

Yup. It's time to start checking sensors.


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## tabora

JRHill said:


> four minutes for warm up in the winter and two minutes in warmer weather


That doesn't seem like a long enough warm-up for an EFI system. Per page 29 of your manual:

_STARTING THE ENGINE: Make sure the Eco-Throttle switch is in the OFF position, or more time will be required for warm-up. If you wish to use the Eco-Throttle system, turn the Eco-Throttle switch to the ON position after the engine has warmed up for 2 or 3 minutes._​
I bet you'd need at least a 5 minute warmup in summer and maybe 10 minutes in winter for the exhaust system to come up to EFI sensing temp. It's probably running on default map prior to that.
_In an electronic fuel injection system for an internal combustion engine an oxygen sensor tests the exhaust gas for oxygen content and provides a feedback signal for fuel/air mixture control. During cold start and engine warm-up the oxygen sensor is inoperative and mixture is controlled as a function of engine temperature. During this phase the mixture may be excessively lean causing rough engine running. _​​Definitely check your O2 sensor for fouling...


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## JRHill

tabora said:


> That doesn't seem like a long enough warm-up for an EFI system. Per page 29 of your manual: ...
> Definitely check your O2 sensor for fouling...


Found it. It's the oil sensor. Most often the genset auto starts so I'm not in front of it. Today I was running manually from the panel and there it was: oil error. No error mode logged - just the light momentarily and a display error as it shut down. Checked the oil and it was fine. Disconnected the sensor and it ran wonderfully. Ran smooth, ECO or not. In 1500 hrs it has not used any oil so I'm not too worried. Next oil change in 50 hrs I'll pull it and test. Dang, its just a grounding switch. $5k gamble but I have bought a powerball ticket with worse odds.

BTW, this is critical timing. I'm changing over from Trojans to SimpliPhis and have to charge them off line to full SOC. I can't have the genset choking out mid charge. I think I have it solved.


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## tabora

JRHill said:


> It's the oil sensor.


Yeah, you were supposed to check that way back at thread post #20... Figured you'd already done that. When you add onto an existing thread we all figure you've exhausted the prior troubleshooting steps.


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## papabearpitones

iowagold said:


> here are a few good injection test tools
> pressure gauge
> https://amzn.to/38eCI1i
> 
> injection pulse tool
> https://amzn.to/2SrobJ6
> now I have used the injection pulse tool for automotive on throttle body
> as a limp home tool!!
> pretty cool indeed!!
> not for the at home guy...
> but in a pro shop it is nice to be able to pull a car in the shop under its own power if the computer has died!
> 
> and this can prove a point on yours will it run..
> and it is used for cleaning the injectors with solvent so you can activate the injector while the solvent is injected.
> cool tool indeed!
> 
> I still think manual the throttle and see if it will speed up.
> and put gauges on the fuel while running
> 
> meter on the fuel pump power
> high voltage test light inline on spark
> 
> hey have you by passed the low oil sensor yet?
> and what is your oil level?
> it should the to the top of the bottom thread on the oil fill.
> or just barely running out the fill lip.
> 
> low oil and run speed will trigger a shutdown for low oil.
> you should get the red light during the event..
> but if it is boarder line to low it will auto reset when the speed is low or engine off.
> 
> caution make sure your oil level is full before doing this below test!
> there is a yellow wire on the side of the case with a bullet plug just unplug it for test only.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> yea the video is a chonda. champion.
> but they are the same deal on all small honda and chonda engines.
> these level sensors are notorious for sticking and failing.
> heck the champion gen video is on a brand new unit!! lol
> that should tell you something about the reliability on these sensors.
> some level sensors get gunked over time. and a good crank case clean helps to flush out the junk.
> then make sure you use Castrol 10-30 oil (honda preferred oil) or any good synthetic 10-30 oil





iowagold said:


> did you blow out the fuel lines as well??
> could be left over water in the lines.
> 
> humm on the zero hours!!
> good job on the water!!
> 
> so when it throttles up it dies???
> or when it throttles down??
> 
> you might think throttle body assy
> Honda Power Equipment 16400-Z1C-C01 - BODY ASSY., THROTTLE (BLH0A A) : PartsFish.com
> 
> with a few hours on it... it could be bad...
> 
> the zero hours is a puzzle!!
> 
> is the oil to the top of the thread on the oil fill??
> low oil will cut out spark..
> 
> put a spark indicator inline with the spark plug.
> so when it quits watch to see if you are loosing spark..
> 
> then the other thing is a bit tricky
> test light on the injector wire feed to see if when it quits see if you are loosing injector pulse..
> 
> if both stay on during the shut down I would suspect the fuel pump is locking or loosing power
> and yes a test light to the fuel pump power during the shut down would show poser loss to the fuel pump.
> 
> the fuel pump is a g rotor style...
> the water in the tank could to have caused the pump to start to fail..
> they get loud if they are worn...
> 
> just a few things to look at!!
> lol if you were close I would say drop over with the gen!!
> it will be a good one when you find it!!


I have an EU7000is with similar issue. Start , surge then shut down, then it threw an E-0A code. tested the injector, pump and the throttle assembly motor. All tested good. Turned out to be a sticky throttle valve. A little wd-40 to loosen it up. Works like new again.


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## tincup

This may seem simple and, you may have already checked but I have found that if the spark arrestor is not cleaned, religiously, it will cause your symptoms. The engine sputters then dies. I have two 3000is gennys and have removed the arrestor simply because it is a major pain the a$$ to get at it. The 7000is is easy, two screws and out it comes.

Hope this helps.


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## iowagold

tincup said:


> This may seem simple and, you may have already checked but I have found that if the spark arrestor is not cleaned, religiously, it will cause your symptoms. The engine sputters then dies. I have two 3000is gennys and have removed the arrestor simply because it is a major pain the a$$ to get at it. The 7000is is easy, two screws and out it comes.
> 
> Hope this helps.


if you are not camping sure!
just remember to place the gen set where sparks from the exhaust is not an issue.


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## marchicarlos

drmerdp said:


> You my friend officially need a shop manual. As far as fuel pump inspections go there are 2 tests. Volume and pressure.
> 
> Volume is easy,
> -Disconnect the fuel line from the injector an place the hose into a graduated cylinder to accurately measure the amount of fuel.
> -Turn key to on and press the start button. GCU activates the pump for 5 seconds then shuts off.
> -Minimum amount of fuel in that time Should be no less then 55cc (1.9oz)
> 
> If it’s less then that suspect the sock(fuel filter attached to the pump) or the pump itself.
> 
> Pressure requires special tools. I’m not sure if the quick connect on the injector is a standardized automotive 5/16 or 3/8 connector but if it is, you can finagle a pressure gauge in line. Spec is 43psi.
> 
> The honda spec’d tool is part number #074APJ-Z37A100 which appears to have been superseded by #074APJ-Z37A101
> 
> Honda 07APJ-Z37A101 Gauge, Fuel Pressure; 07APJZ37A101


Hi! Do you know where I can purchase the EU7000is service manual? Thanks


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## pipe

marchicarlos said:


> .. purchase the EU7000is service manual?


Download here


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## tongkaixiong

tabora said:


> 1. Check to be certain that the fuel tank is venting properly. 2. Pull the O2 sensor in the exhaust (#11 - 35655-Z1C-C01 SENSOR, OXYGEN) and check it for carbon buildup. If it's gunked up, clean it and reinstall. If you have not been running the EU7000is with ECO mode turned off for 10 minutes after startup, start doing so. It takes a while to get the exhaust up to temperature.


 Where is O2 sensor?


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## tongkaixiong

tabora said:


> 1. Check to be certain that the fuel tank is venting properly.
> 2. Pull the O2 sensor in the exhaust (#11 - 35655-Z1C-C01 SENSOR, OXYGEN) and check it for carbon buildup. If it's gunked up, clean it and reinstall. If you have not been running the EU7000is with ECO mode turned off for 10 minutes after startup, start doing so. It takes a while to get the exhaust up to temperature.


Where is O2 sensor?


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## pipe

tongkaixiong said:


> Where is O2 sensor?


See page 224


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