# Kubota GL 11000 diesel genset - loss of power - replace stator/rotor



## crashland (May 16, 2017)

I'm new to the forum but hoping someone can help steer me to a solution:

I used this 10Kw diesel gen for whole house "off-grid" backup. Motor did and still does run flawlessly however one day to the next, the pilot light did not come on and the generator produces no power. I have had it looked at by an electrician and he said the head tested "open" and that the stator likely has a short in it. It has no signs or smell of anything burned on the rotor/stator. I then took it to Kubota tractor dealership and they weren't much help but did rule out that it's the AVR. They also said it looks like it is the stator. They quoted me the new part is approx. $4,200 plus labor to install (probably be $5,500 or so at then end of the day) . Ridiculous to do that since I'd be close to the cost of a brand new generator at that point and certainly more than a used one would cost... SO

I'm wondering if I could find someone who might know where I could find a used "generator head" that I could have installed. Or any other ideas short of just scrapping the whole thing. It's a beautiful generator and engine runs perfectly. There has to be a solution or place I can find a used or reman'd or perhaps salvage stator/rotor... any help or ideas? I'm sort of stumped at this point. Thanks in advance.

Dave


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## Osviur (Sep 7, 2015)

Hi Dave,

I agree with you in the idea that this is a beautiful gen set and it has no sense to replace the whole "generator head". 
A generator set consist in two big parts: The engine and the generator (head). If the engine fails, you don't replace it, you repair it. The same is with the generator.
A generator head has three big parts: Stator, rotor and the excitation components

The stator, as its name says, is the component that does not move or turns. It has two components: The Iron core, who conducts the magnetic flux in a low resistance magnetic circuit or path and the windings (copper or aluminium wire), where the alternating magnetic flux inducts a voltage proportional to the number of the wire turns and the strength of the magnetic field generated by the rotor.

The rotor is the element that generates a magnetic field in a rotating iron core magnetized by a pair or pairs of wire coils. These coils are fed electrically thru a pair of rings and carbon brushes (brushed) or by inducting magnetically an alternating voltage in the rotor and then rectifying it to feed the coils (brushless).

The excitation circuit receives part of the voltage induced in the stator and "administrates" a current more or less intense, controlling the intensity of the magnetic field in the rotor and this controlling the voltage inducted in the stator. This function is controlled by the AVR (automatic voltage regulator) or by a less sophisticated circuit

Due to the load variations from zero to full, the current circulating in the stator varies too, producing a loss in the output voltage, this loss is detected by a sensor circuit in the AVR, which compares a fraction of the output voltage with a fixed voltage (reference voltage) developed inside the AVR and gives an "error signal" that is amplified and sent to the rotor to correct the error. This AVR action is done continuously to maintain a stable output voltage.

In this point I want to mark a difference: Voltage is a potencial or electrical difference BETWEEN TWO POINTS.
Current is the electrons flow, pushed by a voltage, thru a closed path. Voltage may be present without current, current needs a voltage to circulate.

With this knowledge, I can explain certain tests that can be done by yourself, taking all the safety actions to prevent accidents.

FIRST: Check all the possible connectors, in the breakers, in the AVR, the outlets, brushes etc etc and after reseting them, try starting the engine. If it still fails proceed with the following steps.

With the engine off check for continuity each of the two ac outlets with the circuit breakers closed (On), both must be near zero ohms. A very high resistance in any of the outlets indicates an open circuit; it may be a failing connector contact, a failing circuit breaker or (rare) an open coil in the stator. This last condition will avoid the voltage presence in ONE of the outlets (if it is a 120-240 genset).

A short circuit in the stator generates an internal very high current that will overload the engine in such a way that it will stop or will run at low RPMs in an abnormal way with smoke in the generator head.

A loss in the excitation will prevent the creation of the rotating magnetic field and without a magnetic field in the stator, there are not a voltage inducted in the stator coils.

To start generating, it is necessary an initial magnetic field. The rotor iron core maintains a residual magnetism, enough to induct a very little voltage in the stator windings, this voltage is sent to the AVR, then to the brushes and to the rotor coils, increasing the magnetic field up to reach the desired output voltage.

If this genset is a brushed type, the brushes are the weak point, they have a limited life and if one of them fails, there will not be voltage in the outlets. The brushes are located in the opposite side of the engine. Always there are covers to reach such brushes. Check for continuity between both brushes with wires from the AVR disconnected. A high resistance means bad brushes or an open condition in the rotor.

A probable failure cause is a fail in the AVR. This is the last point to revise and the only way to test by yourself is replacing it. 

Sorry for the long explanation but if not for you,it may be useful for other readers.

Hope to be helpful.


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## Osviur (Sep 7, 2015)

Dave,

In this link:
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/805080/Kubota-Gl6000-Std.html?page=60#manual

You will find the GL11000 genset circuit diagram. Near the diode block, there is a 8 amp fuse, if it blows out, there will not be any voltage in the outlets. Check it. Also you have the entire user's manual.

Regards


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## RonJ (Aug 5, 2015)

Osviur, thanks for that input - it does help me, and probably others. Ron


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## Jflmedic (Jun 14, 2017)

I have the same issue, I was wondering is it possible to purshase a power head and connect it to the engine. I've found 10kw powerheads that 1800 RPM for 600 dollars


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## tmack83 (Jul 10, 2017)

Dave,

I am having the same issue with my GL11000. were you able to resolve your issue? I am trying to figure out if the stator can be rewound by an electric motor repair shop


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## Mauizook (Dec 12, 2017)

I, too, have the same issue with my GL-11000. No voltage to the voltmeter on the unit, and only a few volts to the wires coming from the windings under the end cover. I know it's not an avr problem. Nothing looks burnt and no bad odors coming from the generator. I had 2 Gl-7000's and both fried out too. Too expensive to purchase a repair part and seems to make sense to just buy a new one everytime.


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## FoxyRoxys (Dec 31, 2017)

Has anyone made any progress? I have a gl7000 that just quit producing power 2 days ago.....I can't find a service manual for it to save my life so I can't even check the brushes!


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