# No fuel at carb on Honda GX390 Northstar 8k generator...solenoid?



## bayrat (Dec 23, 2021)

Hello gents..first post. As title states, genny shut down and although plenty of fuel I found none in the carb bowl. I am going to trace the fuel line to see if any blockages but thinking the solenoid may be the culprit. It seems this part is unavailable but saw an ad somewhere for $450...thats not going to happen.
Wondering if there is away to test it, and ,if its bad can I just replace with a manual shutoff? This is mounted on the fuel line and not under the carb. Any advice or other ideas gratefully accepted.


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## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

What sort of troubleshooting have you done? Do you get any voltage from the solenoid terminals with the ignition switch on? Have you tried injecting DC voltage to the solenoid with the engine off and the terminals disconnected?


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

make sure the battery is full charge.
and load test the battery.
also take a look at this video of a different model





check to see if you are getting voltage to the valve first
and you can also use an ohm meter to check the coil 
*BIG note: disconnect one wire then test the coil.*

if you are
the check the fuel flow.
the valve could be stuck or full of tank trash.
carb cleaner works on that.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

also take a look at this video on checking the valve


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## exmar (Jun 29, 2015)

Replacing with a manual shut off might be problematic if you forget to shut it off. 12VDC fuel solenoids are readily available (last one I bought for a diesel tractor was around $50) and probably the best way to go since it's on the fuel line. Pay attention to current or wattage as some of them can run hot which might be an issue with pulling down the battery.


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## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

Does this solenoid replace the petcock on the generator?


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

I’d test for power and ground at the solenoid. Followed by jumping 12v to the solenoid to test it’s operation.

What model north star is it?


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## bayrat (Dec 23, 2021)

Thanks for all of the replies ..they are








truly appreciated . They give me a bunch of great ideas about testing. I didnt get to do any troubleshooting yet and genny is at my daughters house now.( I gave it to them and set them up with a input box and interlock kit.) When the gen wouldn't start I pulled the carb drain and it was empty. My plan is to get all new fuel lines ( current ones are 12 yrs old) and I can check for blockages as i replace them but wanted to have some ideas of what else to do if it wasn't fuel lines. 
Another issue is that on the current schematics I saw the 'fuel valve 'on there looks nothing like the one on the engine. Mine is a tri fuel so Im wondering if thats the reason why. I have to locate the original manual that came with the 2007 and see if theres any more detail. Thanks again for the help and I will let you all know how it goes when I get over there, hopefully this coming week. 
ps...does not replace petcock. There is a manual on / off valve that you have to turn on by the carb to let gas flow. There is also a fuel selector for 'gasoline/nat gas/ propane so i imagine that could also be an area to check out.
It is Northstar 8000 with honda GX 390 engine (13 hp)


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## OrlyP (Oct 19, 2021)

It's possible to bypass the solenoid and use a petcock in a pinch. I imagine that the solenoid just made turning on/off gasoline supply a bit more automated when switching over to LP/NG.

But if it's not caused by blockage along the fuel lines or the strainer(?) inside the gas tank, the solenoid might just be stuck closed, especially if it's been in storage for a while. The valve or plunger might just be binding.


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## bayrat (Dec 23, 2021)

OrlyP said:


> It's possible to bypass the solenoid and use a petcock in a pinch. I imagine that the solenoid just made turning on/off gasoline supply a bit more automated when switching over to LP/NG.
> 
> But if it's not caused by blockage along the fuel lines or the strainer(?) inside the gas tank, the solenoid might just be stuck closed, especially if it's been in storage for a while. The valve or plunger might just be binding.


Agree with the reason for more complicated solenoid being the TRI fuel, otherwise it would probably just have a simple one mounted under the carb. It ran on nat gas most of its life and probably only 10-20 hours on gasoline...but I just remembered something. While storing it i kept the batt charged but when I prepared to take it to my daughters I noticed the key was in the 'on' position. I cant remember the last time I used the genny (years for sure). Wondering if that constant power either burned out the solenoid or stretched / tore the diaphragm. Checked online for rebuild kit..$109..but didnt see a diaphragm in the kit.


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## madman75 (Jul 17, 2018)

You can go to the ASCO web site and pretty much put in all the parameters and come up with a replacement.
Here's one that is close to what you have
Catalog No. JST8262H002 12/DC

JST8262H002 12/DC 14 Business Days  95  1/8  0.35  10.6  130.00
Without knowing the CV of your valve, I went with the largest CV available with the closest wattage.
Here's another that may work and is easier to find.
*8262H002 12/DC ASCO 2/2 Series 8262 General Service Solenoid Valve
ASCO 2/2 Series 8262 Direct Acting General Service Solenoid Valve, 2-way, normally closed, Brass body, 1/8 FPT x 1/8in orifice, 0.35 Cv, Buna-N, 120/100/90 psid [email protected] F air/water/lt oil, 10.6W, coil class H, UL Shutoff. Use Rebuild Kit 323587-ASCO *








ASCO 8262H002-12/DC Brass Body Direct Acting General Service Solenoid Valve, 1/8" Pipe Size, 2-Way Normally Closed, Nitrile Butylene Sealing, 1/8" Orifice, 0.35 Cv Flow, 12V/DC: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific


ASCO 8262H002-12/DC Brass Body Direct Acting General Service Solenoid Valve, 1/8" Pipe Size, 2-Way Normally Closed, Nitrile Butylene Sealing, 1/8" Orifice, 0.35 Cv Flow, 12V/DC: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific



www.amazon.com


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## bayrat (Dec 23, 2021)

madman75 said:


> You can go to the ASCO web site and pretty much put in all the parameters and come up with a replacement.
> Here's one that is close to what you have
> Catalog No. JST8262H002 12/DC
> 
> ...


Thank you. If you look at the picture on my original post, the closeup actually shows the rebuild kit # on the solenoid housing, which is pretty helpful. I did go into ASCO and punch in the number and the kit is still available..only thing is I didn't see a replacement diaphragm in the kit. Hoping to get over and dig into this thing next week so I can get some answers as to what I may need .


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## madman75 (Jul 17, 2018)

Your solenoid doesn't have a diaphragm. The piece in the rebuild kit with the spring is the plunger that goes up and down. On the bottom of it is the rubber seat that seals against the nozzle in the valve body. You need to check continuity on the coil. Unless the rubber is really swelled up and is keeping the flow shut off, I usually find that the solenoids leak thru and don't shut off completely. Very rarely do the coils go bad but I have seen a few in my lifetime. I have replaced thousands of solenoid bodies but only a handful of coils.I would definitely check for voltage and continuity on the coils.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

i guess i would just use a gx390 carb with the gasoline shut down sol on the bowl..
unless the carb has some sort of trick setup for the tri fuel...

but there is also a tri fuel carb for the gx 390 with the sol on the bowl.
most of those are 25-50 bucks usd.
pm if you need links for those.


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## bayrat (Dec 23, 2021)

Madman..Thanks..Great info ! When I get over there and pull it off I may get back to you for your thoughts on what I find. Unfortunately it looks like covid may have a say on when I can get over there . Meanwhile I'll pick up new hoses etc and was thinking of picking up a cheap manual shutoff valve so I don't have to drain the tank while im working on it and possibly use it if I cant solve the problem.

Iowa Gold-
so your saying swap out the existing carb for one with solenoid on the bowl? I think I have to follow the wiring back from the solenoid first to see if it links up to that tri fuel switch in any way as that would complicate things. Also most carb mounted solenoids seem to have small wire attachments...not sure how I would adapt the existing wires to one of them. So much I don't know and not having the machine here is killing me.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

if you go the new gx carb
just set it up as 12 volts when on gasoline. the fuel sol is closed when no power so it works as a fuel stop when the switch is off or selected for LP or NG.
easy project
skill level about a 2 out of 10.
if you have basic electrical skills and can crimp wires it is super easy.
pm if you need direct help.


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## bayrat (Dec 23, 2021)

iowagold said:


> if you go the new gx carb
> just set it up as 12 volts when on gasoline. the fuel sol is closed when no power so it works as a fuel stop when the switch is off or selected for LP or NG.
> easy project
> skill level about a 2 out of 10.
> ...


Thanks Paul. Understood re the selector switch. When I was running it on gasoline and wanted to switch to NG, it said to turn selector 'off' and when engine started to sputter from lack of gas, turn to NG...worked lie a charm.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

ahh yea they wanted you to burn all the fuel in the bowl first.
the sol in the bottom of the carb you do not have to do that as it shuts off the gasoline right now to the emulsion tube.


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## bayrat (Dec 23, 2021)

Just wanted to reply back with the outcome for all of the forum numbers who helped me out with great ideas. I finally got over to my daughters house to troubleshoot the generator. Turns out that I was not getting power to the solenoid. Traced the wires back to the switch NG/OFF/ GASOLINE and they looked good. Toggled the switch a few times quickly thru the cycle, tried to start it, and it lit up after a few cranks. I sprayed some canned air and then a little wd-40 into the area best I could, cycled it a few times and it's still working. I'll have to figure out if theres a way to open up that switch without breaking it, to do a better job of cleaning out whatever is in there , but for now I'm happy. Thanks to all who responded. I learned a lot and this forum is great !...john


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

yea a new switch is a good plan.
and maybe a spare as well.

crc makes good contact cleaner...
but does not fix total ate up contacts.

a bit of dielectric grease helps hold back the corrosion.
i also like that on all of the connectors to hold back the storage issues with corrosion on electrical.
think outlets , plugs etc.

back in the day channel master made a product called shield.
that stuff worked well for switches!
and zero call back!
not sure these says what is super close to that stuff...
i am sure crc has something for contact protection.
i would try crc 1003417 
Contact Cleaner & Protectant, 10 Wt Oz


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## drmerdp (Apr 10, 2018)

Exercising the switch was a good start. Replacing it would be best. Last thing you want is another issue just as the generator is needed.


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## bayrat (Dec 23, 2021)

True. Was trying to figure out if I could get it apart and clean it up. . Doubtful


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

tricky at best ...
watch for the springs and small balls..
keyflooey!!
the like to jump around a room!
best to take them apart in an empty room with smooth floor.
and yes the parts can shoot almost 20 feet!
so safety glasses!


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## bayrat (Dec 23, 2021)

iowagold said:


> tricky at best ...
> watch for the springs and small balls..
> keyflooey!!
> the like to jump around a room!
> ...


Ha..that makes it easy! A new one it is.


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## iowagold (Jan 22, 2020)

yea i get in to doing that when no parts on site if remote....
but then again i have been repairing switches for over 55 years...
you get real good with a pair of new diagonal pliers to trip the tabs back...
never attempt with a cheap pair....
i like the knipex brand... expensive but they last a long time.
pm if you need links for those.


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